Tikka T3 Thread

#5,051
littlepod said:
The only thing I did with the trigger is remove the adjustment screw and swap the spring for a lighter spring. Lighter spring / stock spring really did nothing. Both would only go down to 2.5lb before it would fail to be reliable and stay cocked.

I have another Tikka, and just to verify put the spring in there and I have that one at 1lb. So something's up with this trigger. I even swapped triggers around to my other Tikka rifle, and same behavior. Maybe it was off from the factory.

I made sure the spring / pin are pointed correctly, long way in. Reverified/swapped multiple times and double/triple checked.

Any other ideas? I'm calling Beretta on Monday, but I don't want to wait 3 weeks for turnaround, so I'm thinking I'll just get a Timney 2-stage for $200...
Click to expand...

I do believe that you have put that steel pin in wrong way in, when you have put it back to your rifle.
There is no way that if you did also change that lighter spring, and you dd not gain nothing, there is something wrong, and nothing
else there can not be that you have done it wrong.
Dont say that you do not what you have been doing, but if you take that sping and pin out of the trigger too quick, you do not see
which way that pin is coming there, because those end are not the same kind, other is bigger than other.
erniespring02op.png


Check out this video, and you see what i ment.

 
#5,052
littlepod said:
Speaking of which, anyone run a Tikka in a .223? I have a .223 suppressor that I've never used since I hate running it on the AR (too much blowback, dirties the crap out of the action), and want to use it for something. I think a .223 bolt would be perfect for the suppressor...
Click to expand...

My son Tikka 223rem CTR (was a TAC A1) has a Ase Utra SL5i suppressor.
 
#5,053
viking78 said:
I do believe that you have put that steel pin in wrong way in, when you have put it back to your rifle.
There is no way that if you did also change that lighter spring, and you dd not gain nothing, there is something wrong, and nothing
else there can not be that you have done it wrong.
Dont say that you do not what you have been doing, but if you take that sping and pin out of the trigger too quick, you do not see
which way that pin is coming there, because those end are not the same kind, other is bigger than other.
erniespring02op.png


Check out this video, and you see what i ment.

Click to expand...


Thanks Viking, I checked 3-4 times :) Swapped the spring to another trigger as well, which performed great. Swapped it back, made sure plunger was pointing the right way. Instructions say longer end toward the trigger. Made sure the detent pin pointed correctly (only one way since the hex screw is on only 1 side).

I found a few other people with the exact same issue... multiple tikkas, but one trigger wouldn't adjust regardless of spring. They all sent them back to Beretta for warranty, and Beretta sent back a new trigger unit.

And when I changed the spring, the amount the screw came out before it started failing definitely changed. With the stock spring, the screw out to the action screw is around 2.5 lbs. With the new spring, I get to 2.5 lbs with the spring only a few mm out, but any more out, the trigger wouldn't reliably stay cocked. Still stuck at 2.5 lbs. I have another spring coming in today and I'll play around with it again.

Timney trigger coming in 2 days... and I most likely will have a Tikka T3X in .223 soon too...
 
#5,055
littlepod said:
Thanks Viking, I checked 3-4 times :) Swapped the spring to another trigger as well, which performed great. Swapped it back, made sure plunger was pointing the right way. Instructions say longer end toward the trigger. Made sure the detent pin pointed correctly (only one way since the hex screw is on only 1 side).

I found a few other people with the exact same issue... multiple tikkas, but one trigger wouldn't adjust regardless of spring. They all sent them back to Beretta for warranty, and Beretta sent back a new trigger unit.

And when I changed the spring, the amount the screw came out before it started failing definitely changed. With the stock spring, the screw out to the action screw is around 2.5 lbs. With the new spring, I get to 2.5 lbs with the spring only a few mm out, but any more out, the trigger wouldn't reliably stay cocked. Still stuck at 2.5 lbs. I have another spring coming in today and I'll play around with it again.

Timney trigger coming in 2 days... and I most likely will have a Tikka T3X in .223 soon too...
Click to expand...

That is strange, i am not sure do they make a different trigger unit for the US marketing in Tikka/Sako, because i have not heard any that kind of stories in Finland, and i do fine tune Tikka´s trigger all day on my work at the gun shop.
Yodave´s spring and you get about 400g trigger weight, before it brakes like a glass stick.
One of my friend has a springs that can go even half of that trigger pull weight, something like 6oz.
For sure that is not ideal anymore for hunting, but chasing that small group on paper, that is very nice.
 
#5,056
viking78 said:
That is strange, i am not sure do they make a different trigger unit for the US marketing in Tikka/Sako, because i have not heard any that kind of stories in Finland, and i do fine tune Tikka´s trigger all day on my work at the gun shop.
Yodave´s spring and you get about 400g trigger weight, before it brakes like a glass stick.
One of my friend has a springs that can go even half of that trigger pull weight, something like 6oz.
For sure that is not ideal anymore for hunting, but chasing that small group on paper, that is very nice.
Click to expand...

Yep it is strange... someone thought maybe it was Tikka's way of preventing people doing stupid stuff and having an accidental discharge. I think it's just defective... something internal to the trigger must be off. If you tinker with Tikka triggers, I could send it your way if you want to play with it out of curiosity. I'll be putting in my Timney 2-stage in it for the time being...
 
#5,057
My son and I shot a Jim See format team match at Spearpoint Ranch on Saturday. One rifle had to be a 223 and they had seperate bolt/AR classes, 5 targets/stage, and all targets had to be hit twice to clear the stage. You start the stopwatch before you shoot and stop it when finished. 15 second penalty per target not cleared.

Went up Friday to confirm dope before the match and spend the night in their lodge. The farthest targerts were going to be 995, so we made use of their 300-1400 yard range and confirmed to 1000. I went on out to 1400 with my Tikka 22BR, so my son decided to take a shot at the 1400 with the Tikka Varmint 223. I should have had the video going, because he dialed 15 mils and hit it on the first shot. I was amazed what the 75gr ELDM did at that distance.

We took the penalty on one stage and cleared all the rest. It was a great time except for the 97 degree heat and the fact that I didn't contribute near as much as my son did. We ended up 1st in bolt and 5th overall, and it was because he was on fire with the 223.

My son shot the best he has ever shot at any match and he has decided the German Gun Stock Raptor is the way to go. There was a rock stage that he couldn't fit any of our bags in, so he taped my Gittings Equalizer Skid pad on the forend and ran with it.

Time to do a tall target test on my Ares ETR and see why I was up to .5 mil high on some stages and dead on for others.
 

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#5,058
littlepod said:
Yep it is strange... someone thought maybe it was Tikka's way of preventing people doing stupid stuff and having an accidental discharge. I think it's just defective... something internal to the trigger must be off. If you tinker with Tikka triggers, I could send it your way if you want to play with it out of curiosity. I'll be putting in my Timney 2-stage in it for the time being...
Click to expand...

I live in Finland, if you want to send your trigger, i can check it out.
 
#5,061
regarding excessive trigger pull weight, I wonder if it's just that the adjustment screw is too long. The screw appears to be an M5, cone tip, and on my rifle, 10mm long. If I can find one locally I'm going to try one 8mm long since I have the same problem with the lighter spring. On mine, it's in excess of 24oz.

Well, just got back from Ace hardware. They didn't have cone tipped metric set screws so I bought a cup tipped M5 screw 8mm long. With the screw backed out all the way, trigger breaks at about 1 pound. I called McMaster Carr and ordered the same size but in the cone tipped variety (25 for $2.17).

I did do a function test at the lighter pull weight and had no malfunctions. When I get the screws I ordered I'll be setting pull weight a little higher and loc-titing the adjustment.
 
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#5,065
I know it's not a buy sell thread, but if anyone has a T3x CTR stock and bottom metal they are wanting to sell flick me a PM. Or just the bottom metal or if anyone has removed their cheek piece and wants to sell it.
 
#5,066
littlepod said:
Speaking of which, anyone run a Tikka in a .223? I have a .223 suppressor that I've never used since I hate running it on the AR (too much blowback, dirties the crap out of the action), and want to use it for something. I think a .223 bolt would be perfect for the suppressor...
Click to expand...
I've got a standard T3 lite stainless in 223, easily does 1/2Moa with a good load. Very pleasant rifle to shoot, minimal recoil.
Even with a sporter weight barrel it makes an awesome varmint gun, barrel doesn't get too hot unless you go a bit crazy, unlike my T3 lite in 260.
 
#5,069
7105814


I just cannot seem to get below 1/2” groups out of my Tac A1 .308 using factory loads. But I was reminded by a buddy whom I respect, that 1/2” groups from a mass produced rifle using factory ammo is excellent, and unless I reload, this is probably as good as it gets
7105817
 
#5,070
Americancheese said:
I just cannot seem to get below 1/2” groups out of my Tac A1 .308 using factory loads. But I was reminded by a buddy whom I respect, that 1/2” groups from a mass produced rifle using factory ammo is excellent, and unless I reload, this is probably as good as it gets
Click to expand...

Are you saying you want 1/2" inch groups @ 200 yards? (1/4 moa) expectation?

I met someone with the Tac A1 in 6.5cm getting 1/4-1/2 moa with American Gunner 6.5cm ammo, so maybe that's just a lucky pairing of factory ammo.

He's also a much better shooter than me.
 
#5,071
Looking at the possibility of a CTR next yearish. Might be my only bolt rifle for a while as I’m mainly shooting carbines and handguns now but still want a precision rifle.

Will leave it stock except for adding a KRG Bravo for the time being. Think quality <1.5k rifle. Is the stainless steel CTR worth the extra $100 over the blued model? Is the action any slicker in the SS model? Don’t care about the barrel as those are consumables. More wanting to know if the SS action is worth it over the CM action.

Might just post a WTB for a T3X barreled action when I’m ready to buy...
 
#5,072
littlepod said:
Are you saying you want 1/2" inch groups @ 200 yards? (1/4 moa) expectation?

I met someone with the Tac A1 in 6.5cm getting 1/4-1/2 moa with American Gunner 6.5cm ammo, so maybe that's just a lucky pairing of factory ammo.

He's also a much better shooter than me.
Click to expand...

I am shooting 1/2” groups now...i want sub 1/2 moa at any distance....doesn’t matter 100-200. 1/2 moa is 1/2 moa, regardless of distance,
 
#5,073
The Timney Tikka 2-stage trigger came in today. Wow it's awesome... aesthetics, I really like the black trigger as it matches the trigger guard :)

It came out of the factory with a 6oz single stage, and an additional 1lb 2oz for the double stage, totaling 1.5 lbs.

I adjusted the single stage to 8oz, and the double stage to be 8oz more, totallng 1 lbs. Sometimes I can feel an itsy bitsy amount of creep if I really focus on trying to feel it from going into the 2nd stage, but most of the time even when I'm trying to feel it, I don't feel it. There's a seer adjustment that I could also adjust to probably remove that creep but didn't want to spend the time figuring it out.

There's also an overtravel adjustment, that I didn't touch. I have zero overtravel, but reading online some people like overtravel for smoother fall through. I am not good enough to know either way...

One downside is the 2nd stage pull weight adjustment screw is blocked by the action screw. Kind of a dumb placement, if they moved that screw about 1-2mm higher then I could full get to it with the allen wrench, but I basically had to undo the action screw, and turn the adjustment screw, then screw back the action screw. Kind of a pain.

Last two bits that I don't really care either way on is

1. You can engage the bolt with the safety on. The stock trigger you can't engage the bolt with the safety on. Trigger is still safe either way.

2. The safety itself is not as smooth as the original stock trigger. Takes a little more effort to engage.

I'm tempted now to get the same trigger for my T1X... but spending another $200 when it's already sitting pretty with the 1lb single stage crisp Tikka trigger... don't think it's worth doing it...
 
#5,074
littlepod said:
The Timney Tikka 2-stage trigger came in today. Wow it's awesome... aesthetics, I really like the black trigger as it matches the trigger guard :)

It came out of the factory with a 6oz single stage, and an additional 1lb 2oz for the double stage, totaling 1.5 lbs.

I adjusted the single stage to 8oz, and the double stage to be 8oz more, totallng 1 lbs. Sometimes I can feel an itsy bitsy amount of creep if I really focus on trying to feel it from going into the 2nd stage, but most of the time even when I'm trying to feel it, I don't feel it. There's a seer adjustment that I could also adjust to probably remove that creep but didn't want to spend the time figuring it out.

There's also an overtravel adjustment, that I didn't touch. I have zero overtravel, but reading online some people like overtravel for smoother fall through. I am not good enough to know either way...

One downside is the 2nd stage pull weight adjustment screw is blocked by the action screw. Kind of a dumb placement, if they moved that screw about 1-2mm higher then I could full get to it with the allen wrench, but I basically had to undo the action screw, and turn the adjustment screw, then screw back the action screw. Kind of a pain.

Last two bits that I don't really care either way on is

1. You can engage the bolt with the safety on. The stock trigger you can't engage the bolt with the safety on. Trigger is still safe either way.

2. The safety itself is not as smooth as the original stock trigger. Takes a little more effort to engage.

I'm tempted now to get the same trigger for my T1X... but spending another $200 when it's already sitting pretty with the 1lb single stage crisp Tikka trigger... don't think it's worth doing it...
Click to expand...

I adjusted my Tac A1 trigger to under a pound....i actually think it’s quite good.
 
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#5,076
I had a chance to get some range time in this past Sunday after working out the kinks in the Midas trigger and reinstalling in the Bravo Chassis.
I had cleaned and de-coppered the bore after the last range trip a couple of months ago, so I ran a couple of dry patches down the bore to mop out the CLP followed by 20 rounds of factory Hornady 120 grain match ammo to burn any oil out and foul the bore.
50 hand loads of Nosler 140 shot ok, but nothing to brag about, nothing worthy of further development.
I did see that RL 16 and RL 19 offer significant increases in velocity over the same loads using H4350.

I’m talking 200 FPS than my H4350 “control” loads with the same bullets.

The 24” barrel on this rifle was about 150 FPS slower than the 26” barrel on my Savage 12LRP ( yes, two inches of barrel should be worth about 50 FPS ), but I made that speed back plus some extra.

Looks like this Tikka might have a sweet tooth for 142grain Sierra projectiles.
I will be doing further development on these:

59ED1AE5-C910-4EA9-9F95-79F50A90F2D4.jpeg

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594CA345-3B46-4F06-8EFF-3A9D9BF2B0B2.jpeg
 
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#5,078
I'm thinking more-than-just-casually about getting a Tac A1 in 223. Most of my shooting is 400 yards or less. I have an almost 2 year old Tac A1 in 6.5C and like it a lot, but it's kind of overkill for the majority of my shooting. I'll keep it, love the gun and my usage could change (plus I'm not really one to sell guns very often), but I like the idea of an inexpensive to shoot precision rifle. I'm not into competition (other than with myself or a friend) at this point, but might like to take a GunSite course at some future time.
 
#5,079
Americancheese said:
First range day out, sighting everything in and after about 30 rounds, started getting the dreaded failure to feed from the unseated magazine issue. I performed the notch mod and the mags, and they seat more firmly now. One of the better groups with crappy Federal.

What are you guys using for factory .308 loads that are grouping well?
Click to expand...
Can you please explain the “notch mod” you did on your mag?
I put an Atlasworx bottom metal on one of my Tikkas so I could run the AICS/ accuratemags and it pops after every shot and drops down just enough that I have to click it back up into place to load the next round.
Any input in solving this issue is greatly appreciated!
 

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#5,080
Did a 6x5 with the Tikka T3X CTR .308. First time shooting prone. Need to learn some better fundamentals, can see way too much movement as I'm pulling the trigger.

Tikka T3X CTR .308 20" barrel in KRG Bravo
Timney Trigger w/ .5 lb 1st stage, 0.5 2nd stage (1lb total)
100 yards
PPU 168gr Match

Bipod / Prone

7106420
 
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#5,086
Sixgunfab,

I believe they're talking about CTR mags and the 'Notch Mod', you're running AICS mags right?

Problem will be with mag catch and how it interfaces with the external mag catch tab on your mags.
 
#5,089
dino67 said:
Sixgunfab,

I believe they're talking about CTR mags and the 'Notch Mod', you're running AICS mags right?

Problem will be with mag catch and how it interfaces with the external mag catch tab on your mags.
Click to expand...

I’m running AICS mags yes. I wasn’t sure what type of mag had some type of a notch mod that can be done. Just looking to solve the issue of my mag dropping out after each shot.
 
#5,090
Mine with a Bell and Carlson, High Desert Rifle Works bottom metal. Put this together as a back up whitetail rig but will likely get moved off the bench.
 

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#5,092
Americancheese said:
I am shooting 1/2” groups now...i want sub 1/2 moa at any distance....doesn’t matter 100-200. 1/2 moa is 1/2 moa, regardless of distance,
Click to expand...

Take it from someone who chased the sub half moa fever for a long time.... just shoot the rifle. If you have a 1/2 moa factory rifle, running factory match ammo, you have a solid rifle.

Shooting 1/2 moa at 100-200 yards is easier than shooting 1/2 moa at 600-1000. Wind, mirage, etc will all come in to play.

Learn to read the wind. When you get that down and still want better, start loading your own.
 
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#5,093
Tikka T3X TAC A1 the game changer.
7107308


Deam that this 6.5creedmoor is amazing rig.
I bough Lapua 6.5creedmoor brass and plugged it with Lapua 123gr and Vihtavuori N150 powder.
100-meter test shots were 5-9mm with 5 shots.
I tested also the same ammo in 300-meters.
3-shot group was 0,168 MOA.
14,72mm, i am very happy with this result with the factory rifle:).
 
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#5,099
553SBR said:
I stand corrected. I went back and looked at pic's. That is a raised lug, right?
Click to expand...

Yes, it’s part of the bedding block.

I’ve had one of these stocks that fit well as I received it and a couple that didn’t. Bedding straightened one out, it shot very well after. I think I returned the other one.

That tan with black web looks good with your rifle
 
#5,100
Americancheese said:
I just cannot seem to get below 1/2” groups out of my Tac A1 .308 using factory loads. But I was reminded by a buddy whom I respect, that 1/2” groups from a mass produced rifle using factory ammo is excellent, and unless I reload, this is probably as good as it gets
Click to expand...

Your friend is correct. People spend a LOT of time and money to get a half MOA rifle.

-Stooxie
 
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