Tikka T3 Thread

T3 in a element 3.0, 17” x-caliber spiral flute, 6.5 cm, amg and a paint job by LRP long range precision in fde/od. I just need a krg midas and it will be done, maybe dlc or something on the bolt. Shots are a guessed hand load with a ton of mirage. Its shot half this size when the screw behind the trigger isn’t loose!
 

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T3 in a element 3.0, 17” x-caliber spiral flute, 6.5 cm, amg and a paint job by LRP long range precision in fde/od. I just need a krg midas and it will be done, maybe dlc or something on the bolt. Shots are a guessed hand load with a ton of mirage. Its shot half this size when the screw behind the trigger isn’t loose!
That fluting is sick!!
 
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Nice shooting. I love my TAC A1 in 6.5
Itching for another TIKKA to spend some of my .223 ammo that I never use. But it’s all 55gr S&B and some American Eagle, I’m sure that stuff shoots like shit unlike maybe a Hornady 75gr or something similar?
Also, does that T3X Varmint come with a threaded barrel?
The Varmint doesn't come threaded but the muzzle diameter is .910" (IIRCC) I know it will allow 5/8x24 threads. Hopefully they change that this year.
 
T3 in a element 3.0, 17” x-caliber spiral flute, 6.5 cm, amg and a paint job by LRP long range precision in fde/od. I just need a krg midas and it will be done, maybe dlc or something on the bolt. Shots are a guessed hand load with a ton of mirage. Its shot half this size when the screw behind the trigger isn’t loose!

Did the accuracy improve after the barrel spiral fluting?
Usually it does, makes it more rigid and less sensitive for vibration, and it cools donw faster.
My 260 CTR is in gunsmith, hi told me that hi´s gonna surprice me, what hi will do with the fluting, is it straight or spiral, and if it spiral, is it left or right turn :D
 
Did the accuracy improve after the barrel spiral fluting?
Usually it does, makes it more rigid and less sensitive for vibration, and it cools donw faster.
My 260 CTR is in gunsmith, hi told me that hi´s gonna surprice me, what hi will do with the fluting, is it straight or spiral, and if it spiral, is it left or right turn :D
Not sure, as i ordered the blank that way on the 45% off they had going for the president’s birthday. My buddy ordered a non fluted at the same time and it was spun up by the same smith. Both shoot 1/4” with the same handload. He went 18” and i 17”. I just have not chrono’d mine yet.

as far as getting better groups, iam not sure if thats true or not, all i know is the same 2 barrels with the same smith, will both net 1/4” at best because the shooters can't shoot better at 100 yards. At least repeatably.
 
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Did the accuracy improve after the barrel spiral fluting?
Usually it does, makes it more rigid and less sensitive for vibration, and it cools donw faster.
I think the best you can hope for is that fluting will not make accuracy worse. It's definitely not more rigid after removing material (this myth comes from the fact that a fluted barrel is more rigid than a smooth one of the same weight, but compared to the heavier original barrel, it will be weaker). Knight's Armament did testing that showed increased POI shift with heating after fluting and no longer recommends it.

On the other hand. fluting looks cool enough that a little accuracy loss is worth it if you're not doing benchrest.
 
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I think the best you can hope for is that fluting will not make accuracy worse. It's definitely not more rigid after removing material (this myth comes from the fact that a fluted barrel is more rigid than a smooth one of the same weight, but compared to the heavier original barrel, it will be weaker). Knight's Armament did testing that showed increased POI shift with heating after fluting and no longer recommends it.

On the other hand. fluting looks cool enough that a little accuracy loss is worth it if you're not doing benchrest.
Please everyone don't start this up again. There was a thread arguing about this for awhile in a different thread.
 
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I asked them-- chatted with them on Facebook. To quote:

"barrel tenon will be the Savage 1-1/16"x 20 tpi thread"

-Stooxie

They said the same thing to me in an Instagram post but then deleted it. I suspect the threading is the same but the tenon length may be different as they don’t explicitly call out the Savage compatibility. You’d think they would if it was completely compatible.
 
They said the same thing to me in an Instagram post but then deleted it. I suspect the threading is the same but the tenon length may be different as they don’t explicitly call out the Savage compatibility. You’d think they would if it was completely compatible.

What good is it if it's some fucked up proprietary tenon? The Preece Precision guy said the same thing, their Tikka clone is 1" x16 TPI so I said, "Oh, so it takes regular Tikka barrels?" He says, "no, the tenon length is shorter by .030."

So we potentially have "kinda Savage but not really" and "Kinda Tikka but not really?" Why would they do that?

-Stooxie
 
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What good is it if it's some fucked up proprietary tenon? The Preece Precision guy said the same thing, their Tikka clone is 1" x16 TPI so I said, "Oh, so it takes regular Tikka barrels?" He says, "no, the tenon length is shorter by .030."

So we potentially have "kinda Savage but not really" and "Kinda Tikka but not really?" Why would they do that?

-Stooxie

I just want to reiterate that this is MY assumption and I agree, if this is the case it seems short-sighted. I have no complaints with my IBI barrel and their service is fast for us up here in Canada, so getting barrels through them isn’t a negative for me

Being Canadian I’ll likely grab one just for the sake of doing so to support my local industries, especially as we are facing direct changes to our gun laws that are making many buyers hold on to their wallets.
 
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I'm not familiar with the Tikka clones mentioned. What is reported to be gained by going with a clone as opposed to the tikka action? I understand the Remington clone advantage over the Remington so no need to explain that but wondering about the tikka.
 
I'm not familiar with the Tikka clones mentioned. What is reported to be gained by going with a clone as opposed to the tikka action?

They used the tikka footprint bc it their design is probably closer to a tikka than r700, and instead of needing a proprietary stock inlet, the tikka already has aftermarket chassis and stock support in the industry and you can just use tikka inlet stocks. That makes the most sense to me. I dont think they were just trying to replicate tikkas bc from what I see, it's the only thing "tikka" about it.
 
My new toy ...
  • Tikka T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor
  • Athlon Cronus BTR 4.5-29x56
  • American Defense Manufacturing 20-MOA QD Scope Mount
  • Atlas Bipod
  • Tikka Performance Bag Rider
  • American Precision Arms "LIttle Bastard" Muzzle Brake

View attachment 7226920
Rusty, I am going the same route. What glass is that? It looks like the same Leupold I am going with. The VX-3i LRP 8.5-25x 50mm TMR FFP by Leupold. I am going to suppress mine with an AAC 762-sdn-6 so I will have the 51 tooth muzzle break/mount. What have you run through it so far? My barrel is still clean.
 
Do you guys like more factory Tikka or Custom?

I really like that there is so many option for Tikka now days.

Back in 2010, there was not many chassis manufacturer for Tikka, now there is so many that i dont even know the count.

Here´s my custom rig and maybe the best precision Tikka from factory outfit.

Im those guys who strip my rigs a part straight when it comes to factory, and start thinking how i could modify it to make it better, or make it look what i want it to look.

Ordinary is not for me, nothing wrong in that, i just like mine shaken and stirred :D

View attachment 7229058
Just out of curiosity, where did you get the suppressor covers?
 
I think the best you can hope for is that fluting will not make accuracy worse. It's definitely not more rigid after removing material (this myth comes from the fact that a fluted barrel is more rigid than a smooth one of the same weight, but compared to the heavier original barrel, it will be weaker). Knight's Armament did testing that showed increased POI shift with heating after fluting and no longer recommends it.

On the other hand. fluting looks cool enough that a little accuracy loss is worth it if you're not doing benchrest.

Well Tom Beckstrand just writed in gun´s&ammo magazine few issues back, that fluted barrel is more accurate than normal barrel and carbon wrapped barrel is the most accurate.
Well, im am just a guy who shoot, dont know what is best, but my Krieger barrel with spiral fluting has 0,18MOA 5-shot 100-meter.
If not done the fluting, it then should shoot 0,1 MOA ;).
That, what kind of barrel you are doing fluting has a matter.
Cold hammer forged and cut rifled barrels are no problem to do fluting, but then a button rifles, it might be end of story, so in that
point you are right about fluting the barrel.
 
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They used the tikka footprint bc it their design is probably closer to a tikka than r700, and instead of needing a proprietary stock inlet, the tikka already has aftermarket chassis and stock support in the industry and you can just use tikka inlet stocks. That makes the most sense to me. I dont think they were just trying to replicate tikkas bc from what I see, it's the only thing "tikka" about it.
Got it. So if custom companies are replicating the Tikka footprint, someone must see value in the recoil lug system as opposed to the Remington style lug. Or at the very least must not think the lug as a negative like so many haters on line do.
 
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What good is it if it's some fucked up proprietary tenon? The Preece Precision guy said the same thing, their Tikka clone is 1" x16 TPI so I said, "Oh, so it takes regular Tikka barrels?" He says, "no, the tenon length is shorter by .030."

So we potentially have "kinda Savage but not really" and "Kinda Tikka but not really?" Why would they do that?

-Stooxie

I wouldn't be surprised. Ultimatum incorporates some questionable features into their actions that always makes me go "why the fuck did they do that".

I want to like them, being a fellow Canadian, but they make it so difficult.
 
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I wouldn't be surprised. Ultimatum incorporates some questionable features into their actions that always makes me go "why the fuck did they do that".

I want to like them, being a fellow Canadian, but they make it so difficult.

I want to be more charitable because patriotism (too) but yeah, I'm really scratching my head with the whole DeFacto concept.

The Tikka footprint is an odd choice, I can only imagine they didn't want to compete with their Deadline and make another Rem 700 clone. Had they instead made a cheaper Deadline alternative at the same price point with a narrower bolt (improving backwards compatibility), pinned lug and Savage shank and barrel nut I think that would do better for them.

Maybe I'm a fringe case, but as it stands, I have a Tikka and a couple of nice (aftermarket) barrels for it. I just upgraded my chassis to an ACC, so I'd rather stay in the Tikka ecosystem, but for the price of a DeFacto I can get at least two IBI prefit barrels (apples to apples). Assuming I stay with a 308 bolt face, it's really a no brainer. I'm plenty happy with the Tikka trigger and I'm not keen on milling my chassis (again since I'm a lefty and needed it done to the ACC) to accept the unique Tikkington thing the DeFacto has going on. The 60 degree bolt throw is pretty close to the Tikka and it remains to be seen how the OEM Triggertech performs compared to a stock or YoDave'd Tikka trigger.

The only clear, compelling case I can think of for the DeFacto would be 224 Valkyrie, but that's not presently available for the Deadline (nor Tikka, obviously) and I cannot fathom them offering that in DeFacto first.

So, yeah. Want to buy one, but really can't justify it at the moment.
 
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The Tikka went to the hunting camp this past weekend and performed admirably, as expected.
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This was the first trip out with my Form 1 home built suppressor and I’m really impressed at how much it cut down the muzzle blast.
The kittykat was snacking on a dead 9 point whitetail buck that was in the wood line on the other side of the green field. One shot took all 9 lives and the does that were in the field didn’t even pick their heads up.
The new @MDT_OFFICIAL ACC Stock worked well, but the additional weight was noticeable compared to the Bravo I had the barreled action in previously. Between the extra weight and the suppressor, spotting the hit was easy.
 
Well, there ya go - it must be true....


I stopped reading G&A magazine around the time I was 13 years old, BTW, when I realized that it was FOS. You need to upgrade your sources of information.

I am doing co-work with a gunsmith, and hi has done experiment with different type of barrels and flutings.
And hi has come in to a conclusion, that barrel fluting adds accuracy.
 
The Tikka went to the hunting camp this past weekend and performed admirably, as expected. View attachment 7231685View attachment 7231686

This was the first trip out with my Form 1 home built suppressor and I’m really impressed at how much it cut down the muzzle blast.
The kittykat was snacking on a dead 9 point whitetail buck that was in the wood line on the other side of the green field. One shot took all 9 lives and the does that were in the field didn’t even pick their heads up.
The new @MDT_OFFICIAL ACC Stock worked well, but the additional weight was noticeable compared to the Bravo I had the barreled action in previously. Between the extra weight and the suppressor, spotting the hit was easy.

Details on the form 1 can?
 
Anyone here ever seen velocities in the 2800's from a factory CTR 24" with factory 140 ELD-M?

Reason i ask is i'm going back through the data to start working on ballistic tables. From sighting in mine last week the recorded velocities we were getting averaged 2870fps and that seems to be significantly faster than what i've read about 140's out of a factory tikka barrel.

Obviously i'll have to go shoot more at distance to work it out... but was just curious.
 
Anyone here ever seen velocities in the 2800's from a factory CTR 24" with factory 140 ELD-M?

Reason i ask is i'm going back through the data to start working on ballistic tables. From sighting in mine last week the recorded velocities we were getting averaged 2870fps and that seems to be significantly faster than what i've read about 140's out of a factory tikka barrel.

Obviously i'll have to go shoot more at distance to work it out... but was just curious.

Never heard of a factory Tikka 6.5 barrel getting that kind of velocity from box ammo. My 24-inch Tikka would get 2,740 with the factory barrel using hand loads that would occasionally have sticky bolt lift on hot days.

I'd check the the primers and case head for signs of pressure. If you're not seeing pressure signs then likely your chronograph is the issue.
 
Never heard of a factory Tikka 6.5 barrel getting that kind of velocity from box ammo. My 24-inch Tikka would get 2,740 with the factory barrel using hand loads that would occasionally have sticky bolt lift on hot days.

I'd check the the primers and case head for signs of pressure. If you're not seeing pressure signs then likely your chronograph is the issue.

My thoughts exactly. I was thinking it had to be the chrono.
Temp was 39 degrees F, no pressure signs. Realistically i'm going to set the data at 2750 and go from there based on shots at distance.
 
What copper pills were you use?
Nice group.
Sorry for the late response..... Federal Gold Medal Match 69SMK box ammo.

Developing handloads soon for varmint season and 100/200 local bench matches. 52/55/60g Berger Flat Base bullets, 55/60g Vmax, 5+ powders, and 4 primer options. Using once fired Norma brass.
 
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Lefty options? Being able to get anything off of the choose.tikka.fi site?
Selecting Handedness - Left here:
or here:
https://choose.tikka.fi/global
should get you a lot of options.

... at least on my Windows laptop I get lots of options.