I believe the case hitting the bolt is because atlas bottom metal is the longest coal bottom metal for tikka t3x right now and it’s just cut out a hair to far towards the trigger. So if your case is comingup the magazine just right the case hits the bolt a bit until I give it a smack...its most likely just my personal rifle but man it’s all so tight for room. I’ll figure out something sooner or later that works better.
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I believe the case hitting the bolt is because atlas bottom metal is the longest coal bottom metal for tikka t3x right now and it’s just cut out a hair to far towards the trigger. So if your case is comingup the magazine just right the case hits the bolt a bit until I give it a smack...its most likely just my personal rifle but man it’s all so tight for room. I’ll figure out something sooner or later that works better.
Have you tried trimming the bolt stop back some to see if it will give you the clearance you need ?
No I really didn’t want to go that far but I mean really it’s a matter of like .020” maybe little more...I think I’ll take a little of with my dremel. Thanks
Finally got my Tikka! It's my first centerfire bolt gun. Bought it from Scheels on Saturday and got pictures of it today. Took me 3.5 years to get because I kept raiding my gun fund for other gun stuff (10/22, tbac22, razor 2, a better savage 22lr, atlas bipod). I even bought a case of prime 130's for it 11 months ago. Been nice to get the parts over the years cause I can now use it all together.
Tikka jrtxb482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed
Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)
Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail
Caldwell sling adapter, rrs sc-lr, rrs atlas adapter spacer, atlas cal gen 2 no dye (thanks @Kasey)
My dog Daisy decided to help with pictures.
Going to keep it in the tupperware for now til I can get a good chassis.
Haven't shot it yet but will soon.
Tikka jrtxb482 lefty stainless t3x lite 6.5 creed
Vortex razor 2 4.5-27x56 7c mil in vortex precision rings (used off the hide)
Murphy tactical 20moa titanium rail
Caldwell sling adapter, rrs sc-lr, rrs atlas adapter spacer, atlas cal gen 2 no dye (thanks @Kasey)
My dog Daisy decided to help with pictures.
Going to keep it in the tupperware for now til I can get a good chassis.
Haven't shot it yet but will soon.
Will also be upgrading it with a Sterk shroud at some point too. Probably a gen 2 or trg style. Haven't decided yet. Not sure what I want for bolt handle yet. Never tried anything with a swept handle or any other style of aftermarket handle.
I might as well go with Sterk after ating in @cannoncrossfire so much over the years. His are the best looking.
I might as well go with Sterk after ating in @cannoncrossfire so much over the years. His are the best looking.
Q for fellow Tikka T3x Lite owners: Is it worth upgrading bottom metal to the Atlasworxs AICS? I was surprised they actually have a drop-in AICS DBM that works in the Lite versions.
www.atlasworxs.com
I'm curious about the fit and reliability of this DBM, esp feeding reliability. Also trying to think through whether it's even really worth adding AICS bottom metal to this rifle, given it's a light hunting rifle in the synthetic factory stock. I'll rarely if ever use 10rd AICS mags. You can already get 5rd factory mags, and they are perfectly reliable in my experience. Also the DBM will add more weight. But bottom line, the compatibility with AICS and ability to use my other mags is nice.
What says the wisdom of the collective?
Atlasworxs – Online Store
www.atlasworxs.com
I'm curious about the fit and reliability of this DBM, esp feeding reliability. Also trying to think through whether it's even really worth adding AICS bottom metal to this rifle, given it's a light hunting rifle in the synthetic factory stock. I'll rarely if ever use 10rd AICS mags. You can already get 5rd factory mags, and they are perfectly reliable in my experience. Also the DBM will add more weight. But bottom line, the compatibility with AICS and ability to use my other mags is nice.
What says the wisdom of the collective?
I’d run the factory mags in a factory stock. If i bought a Manners stock with a factory inlet I would buy the AICS bottom metal, if the Manners stock didn’t come with a mini chassis (which has the AICS bottom metal integrated into it).
@keenedge it is not a drop in part - that bottom metal says 'Inletting is required which is recommended to be done by a competent and qualified person.'
A factory tikka CTR has a bigger bottom metal inlet that will allow for bottom metals using CTR or AICS magazine sizes.
A factory Tikka lite/hunter/varmint/etc that uses the plastic tikka magazines will need some material removed/inletted to allow for a bottom metal using CTR or AICS magazines.
A factory tikka CTR has a bigger bottom metal inlet that will allow for bottom metals using CTR or AICS magazine sizes.
A factory Tikka lite/hunter/varmint/etc that uses the plastic tikka magazines will need some material removed/inletted to allow for a bottom metal using CTR or AICS magazines.
My recent experience playing with a ctr and lite stock reflect this as well. The plastic bottom "metal" from the non-tactical Tikkas are narrower than the CTR bottom metal. It'll take more than just some Dremel/file work to properly inlet one into the factory stocks.
I dropped my lite into a CTR stock and bottom metal for the larger trigger guard since I'll be wearing winter gloves. Biggest draw back is adding ~0.5lbs extra to the rifle vs the plastic mag.
Is it worth adding the AICS to a hunting rifle just for mag compatibility? Wondering if maybe it actually enhances feed reliability and reduces 'flex', which I've noticed sometimes with the all-plastic OEM setup?
As for weight, not that bad, total weight about 4.5oz, so net increase over factory plastic guard only around 3 to 4oz.
I’m apparently very late to join this Tikka T3 thread. I just got my Tikka T3x built this past Spring. And I do love this rifle. It started out as a new 6.5CM and was rebarreled with a light varmint 8.5 to 7.5 gain twist Bartlein 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Then I dropped it into a McMillan A5 with CTR bottom metal. It shoots every kind of 140gr pill very well.
I have since added the Area 419 Arca Rail and changed over to a muzzle brake rather than the suppressor.
It is topped with a Gen II Razor in Vortex PMR rings and a 30 moa base.
I have since added the Area 419 Arca Rail and changed over to a muzzle brake rather than the suppressor.
It is topped with a Gen II Razor in Vortex PMR rings and a 30 moa base.
Attachments
That thing is absolutely beautiful. I actually just bought a Vortex Razor Gen II today and I have a T3x CTR SS arriving on Friday. I'm super excited. Hope it's a shooter.
Follow-up from my previous post. Preferred Barrel Blanks is now doing 20 cal barrels. They will do a prefit 20 Vartarg for a Tikka. Ordered.
I’m going to build a magazine holder that will allow my to fit a CZ527 221 Fireball magazine into the CTR mag well. The CZ mag will hold and feed the Fireball/VarTarg case properly, and the holder will allow it to locate and lock into the CTR magwell correctly. The Tikka T3x 223 bolt face will feed and eject the case properly. I think this project will produce a nice repeater. Goal is an accurate rifle between 223 and 22LR. CFE BLK powder, Lapua 221 Fireball brass, Sierra 32 and 39gr BlitzKings, 1:11” twist 22” barrel. Pics to follow in 2 months when the barrel arrives.
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The Razor Gen II and CTR will make a great combo. Will you be hand loading for that rifle? If so, it should really perform well.
No I do not plan on handloading. I’m hoping it’ll shoot ELD’s well or any other factory load. We’ll see. Actually picking the rifle up today.
Having read all 168 pages of this thread, it is highly unlikely that it won't be a shooter. Your skills might not be able to run it to its full potential at this point (I know mine aren't and I haven't shot mine yet) but that doesn't mean the gun can't do it.
I agree the Hornady 140 American gunners shoot well out of my T3, easily 1/2-MOA. With that said, I find their ballistics incredibly disappointing. To true my rifles ballistics I had to cut their BC waaay down in my software for it to match up perfect with the chrono’d velocity. American a Gunner has to go down to a G7 of .222, trued out to 1,000 yards. I had the same thing happen yesterday when I was getting dope on the 143gr ELD-X, I had to cut the G7 from .315 to .190 to get it correct. I have a ton of the gunner stuff here I’ll use in a class and then I’m done with it. There’s no reason to buy match ammo with a trash ballistic coefficient. I picked up some Berger 130gr to try out.
What was your velocity? Tikkas have known to give out lower velocity barrels. That might be why?
I'm getting 2,590fps per LabRadar. They do have slow barrels. But man it was rough getting these Hornady's tuned in to shoot correctly.
I grabbed my AR-10 and some Federal soft points, guessed the velocity 100fps slower than factory because of the 16" barrel, and hit dead on at 300 yards. Surprisingly easy in comparison.
Here's a couple of pics of my Tikka Tac A1 with the recent Black Label handguard upgrade. Well worth it IMO. Cheers
Tikka Tac A1
BLK LBL Handguard 16" length
Badger Unimount
EoTech VUDU 3X18
Here's with the Magpul bipod, and then with the BLK LBL handguard installed.
Tikka Tac A1
BLK LBL Handguard 16" length
Badger Unimount
EoTech VUDU 3X18
Here's with the Magpul bipod, and then with the BLK LBL handguard installed.
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How do you like the Blk Lbl bipod looks fantasticHere's a couple of pics of my Tikka Tac A1 with the recent Black Label handguard upgrade. Well worth it IMO. Cheers
Tikka Tac A1
BLK LBL Handguard
Badger Unimount
EoTech VUDU 3X18
Here's with the Magpul bipod, and then with the BLK LBL handguard installed.
It's VERY well made, which for the cost, I'm happy with, anything less and I'd be disappointed. The "functionality" so far, so good. I haven't really tested it in the field yet, but its stable and comfortable, and from the pics you can see much more streamline. While the rifle doesn't demand many or any "upgrades" sans maybe the bolt handle, it does improve the rifle IMO.
After perusing the the threads here I figured that the Sterk bolt upgrade and shroud was a must, for Tikka owners, LOL
Again , for the modest cost, it's worth it, kinda gives it an AI flavor? if your OK with that. Top shelf fit&finish etc.
Question, on that photo of the 5 shot groups, how did you get all of that digital? Is there an app you used to do that?Here's a couple of pics of my Tikka Tac A1 with the recent Black Label handguard upgrade. Well worth it IMO. Cheers
Tikka Tac A1
BLK LBL Handguard 16" length
Badger Unimount
EoTech VUDU 3X18
Here's with the Magpul bipod, and then with the BLK LBL handguard installed.
Shot a .25 inch 3 shot group along with 2 other 3/8 inch 3 shot groups at 100 yards in addition to a .475 inch 5 shot group at 100 yards today. All with ELD's. Absolutely thrilled will it. I'm gonna make a post in the morning w/ pictures of the rifle and groups.
Ballistic X and Range Buddy seems to be the most popular.....
I used Range Buddy, it's worth watching the Youtube video to understand how to use all the features. Good luck
Bought my first Tikka today. Found it on sale and couldn’t pass it up. CTR in 6.5 creedmoor, stainless 20” barrel. I was worried my Spuhr mount would be too low, fits perfect though.
I sold mine on eBay without the mag for a little over $100. I did include the beaver tail Forend.
I just bought and zeroed an Ultralite in 270 Win. I bought four different boxes of Ammo. The first one I zeroed the rifle with (Federal 130 gr blue box) was so accurate, I just went home and kept all the others unopened for a better time.
I was just looking at this yesterday for my new rifle. I think I’m going to go with Timney.
I have reinstalled the handguard on my Tikka T3x TAC A1 and do not know how much to tighten the two handguard screws. Could some of you owners of TAC A1 please take the measurement of the clamp gap at the utmost rear of the handguard and write it here?
Hopefully this will help - the gap I measured was 2.87 mm and torqued to 8-9 Nm / 70-80 in-lb
Note 1 - I have a Blk Lbl bipod
Note 2 - installation of the bipod repurposed the original hardware
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Thanks, but the stock TAC A1 handguard is different. The gap before tightening is just 1.85 mm. I'm curious how much should it be after tightening. I don't want to deform the handguard.
There is the timney along with the KRG Midas. There are threads about them here on the Hide. @Massoud does some great products.
Manual says to oil the screws and tighten alternately.
I guess whatever feels good to the user.....
To the TAC A1 guys,
I've had mine 6-8 months, running 147 gr Tap round with sub MOA groups out to 300 yds and consistent steel hits to 750. Running low on the 147 round and can't find anymore. I bought a case of 140 ELD Match and seems to be 1/4 moa off of the 147. What other rounds are working for your TAC A1?
TIA
Bob
I've had mine 6-8 months, running 147 gr Tap round with sub MOA groups out to 300 yds and consistent steel hits to 750. Running low on the 147 round and can't find anymore. I bought a case of 140 ELD Match and seems to be 1/4 moa off of the 147. What other rounds are working for your TAC A1?
TIA
Bob
French Tikka T3x TAC A1 manual states the nominal torque on handguard screws is 5 Nm (44 in lbs). That's a lot. I'm afraid that much torque will completely close the gap and plastically deform the aluminum handguard.
I just finished the chassis part of my first Tikka PRS PRoject, It started off as a T3x Lite veil wideland rifle to get the 24" threaded barrel, I was originally planning on going with the CTR for $100 less and getting the non fluted stainless barrel, but the availability recently has been horrible over the last few months.
I have installed it in the MDT ACC Chassis, while I was performing the changeover I upgraded the trigger spring to the M*Carbo Tikka T3 / T3x Trigger spring kit and I must say it is one of the lightest triggers I have ever felt on a rifle, I may adjust it up a bit from where it is at.
I ordered the MDT 20 MOA rail which I was pleased to find included the lug and then I mounted my 10x42 SWFA scope on it, I have new Vortex rings coming for the setup, and eventually the optics are going to be upgraded, but I should be able to have some good fun with it until I get to that point, I'll be waiting for the tract toric 4.5-30x56 in MOA which they are announcing next month and releasing in December, Unless someone knows of a radically better scope for the money?
Also the bipod will be getting upgraded to the CYKE-Pod down the road, the weaver is just there for the time being attached to a M-Lok mounting point.
Anyways Thought I'd show off my new rifle build, always looking for any feedback as this is my first PRS rifle build.
I have installed it in the MDT ACC Chassis, while I was performing the changeover I upgraded the trigger spring to the M*Carbo Tikka T3 / T3x Trigger spring kit and I must say it is one of the lightest triggers I have ever felt on a rifle, I may adjust it up a bit from where it is at.
I ordered the MDT 20 MOA rail which I was pleased to find included the lug and then I mounted my 10x42 SWFA scope on it, I have new Vortex rings coming for the setup, and eventually the optics are going to be upgraded, but I should be able to have some good fun with it until I get to that point, I'll be waiting for the tract toric 4.5-30x56 in MOA which they are announcing next month and releasing in December, Unless someone knows of a radically better scope for the money?
Also the bipod will be getting upgraded to the CYKE-Pod down the road, the weaver is just there for the time being attached to a M-Lok mounting point.
Anyways Thought I'd show off my new rifle build, always looking for any feedback as this is my first PRS rifle build.
That’s awesome is there an English version as the manual that came with the rifle is a blend of several models and not specifically dedicated as the French one linked above
Has anyone had any luck removing the "silent stock foam" from a T3x/T1x? I have a Kalix Teknik CR1 Adjustable Cheek Rest to install in my T1x stock and I want to remove that foam without damaging it or the stock if possible.
