Tikka T3 Thread

I think I just replied to your message HoustonB77, yes the Swept Ball handles are $100 AU which is $80 US (current currency conversion) and the Titanium shrouds are $105AU which is $85 US.
Thanks WarDamnRockets, I hope people will agree with you haha - I thought 'damnnnn - nice' when it popped out of the CNC though. My CAD models and 3D printed prototypes didn't do it justice until it was machined.

Just received my swept handle and the machining is very nice. When will the gen 3 bolt shroud be released?
 
cannoncrossfire, since I am not on Facebook, can you post a pic of your handle and knob choices here? If nothing else, at least the other options that we haven't already seen here?

Thanks
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Tikka Parts: Swept Ball Handle (Stainless Shaft, Aluminium Knob), Titanium Pineapple Handle, Titanium Grooved Handle, Titanium Bolt Shroud

In response to the GEN2 Titanium Shroud - Frank/Lowlight has one, I have the other 2 - these are the initial 'prototypes'. I'm still sending out parts from the current Tikka handles/shrouds batch, so GEN2 Titanium Shroud might be released/produced later this year. I'll be posting more info and pics after a couple of weeks. It's not like any other shroud i've come across, the idea was to come out with something new and different.
 

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Tikka Parts: Swept Ball Handle (Stainless Shaft, Aluminium Knob), Titanium Pineapple Handle, Titanium Grooved Handle, Titanium Bolt Shroud

In response to the GEN2 Titanium Shroud - Frank/Lowlight has one, I have the other 2 - these are the initial 'prototypes'. I'm still sending out parts from the current Tikka handles/shrouds batch, so GEN2 Titanium Shroud might be released/produced later this year. I'll be posting more info and pics after a couple of weeks. It's not like any other shroud i've come across, the idea was to come out with something new and different.

Thank you.
 


Tikka Parts: Swept Ball Handle (Stainless Shaft, Aluminium Knob), Titanium Pineapple Handle, Titanium Grooved Handle, Titanium Bolt Shroud

In response to the GEN2 Titanium Shroud - Frank/Lowlight has one, I have the other 2 - these are the initial 'prototypes'. I'm still sending out parts from the current Tikka handles/shrouds batch, so GEN2 Titanium Shroud might be released/produced later this year. I'll be posting more info and pics after a couple of weeks. It's not like any other shroud i've come across, the idea was to come out with something new and different.

What color are the first two swept handles from the left, in the above picture?
 
Patriot brown handle+knob, coyote tan handle+black knob, and I think the shrouds were patriot brown and fde. I have done graphite black, FDE, OD green, sniper grey, patriot brown, coyote tan.
The lighting was bright for that pic so even black looks slightly grey, colours are definitely darker in person.
 
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Does anyone have a trial version of the KRG Bravo stock/"chassis"? I'm really interested in it for the CTR, I really like how it puts the shooting hand higher up near the bore axis and doesn't add a significant height to the overall profile like most chasses (sp?) do.
 
My Sterk bolt handle and shroud didn't make it in before I had to go back to work, but here is something to hold y'all over until I return.
 

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Have a CTR 6.5 to pick up this weekend. Already have my Viper PST II 5-25 to mount on it. It dawned on me though - do I need a 20MOA base on the rifle? Initially I'm likely only shooting at 200 yards max to work on accuracy and consistency but I want to work out to 1000 yards.
 
Chances are, yes. You will probably get close to running out of elevation with a 0 moa base. Only way to know is to zero your rifle, chrono your ammo then set your turrets. Then take your elevation to max and compare it to your ballistics solver.
 
Have a CTR 6.5 to pick up this weekend. Already have my Viper PST II 5-25 to mount on it. It dawned on me though - do I need a 20MOA base on the rifle? Initially I'm likely only shooting at 200 yards max to work on accuracy and consistency but I want to work out to 1000 yards.

If 200 yards is max distance I would not worry about a 20 MOA base. I have a 20 MOA base sitting on my self that I have yet to install on my Tikka TSR-1. I keep saying I am going to get around to it but I already have 15 mils of Elevation without it. 15 mils will get me to 1350 with my 20 inch 260.
 
Have a CTR 6.5 to pick up this weekend. Already have my Viper PST II 5-25 to mount on it. It dawned on me though - do I need a 20MOA base on the rifle? Initially I'm likely only shooting at 200 yards max to work on accuracy and consistency but I want to work out to 1000 yards.
PST GII has 20 MRAD max elevation adjustment, with 6.5CM you will need around 8 mils to get to 1000 yards but that depends on how many remaining mils you get after zeroing. I don't think is gonna be less than that.

 
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If 200 yards is max distance I would not worry about a 20 MOA base. I have a 20 MOA base sitting on my self that I have yet to install on my Tikka TSR-1. I keep saying I am going to get around to it but I already have 15 mils of Elevation without it. 15 mils will get me to 1350 with my 20 inch 260.

200 yards is hopefully just the starting point on the way to 1000. Though I think I'll just start without the 20MOA base and maybe that'll work well enough for me.
 
Anyone know where you can purchase different bolt heads, I'd like to change a 30-06 to a 7 SAUM.

Not an option, unless you find somebody that wants to swap bolts with you. You could try to buy a bolt from Beretta, but I'm pretty sure they'd charge you about 70% of a new rifle for it. I'd just find a used mag bolt face rifle on arms list or GunBroker and build a separate rifle.

 
Not an option, unless you find somebody that wants to swap bolts with you. You could try to buy a bolt from Beretta, but I'm pretty sure they'd charge you about 70% of a new rifle for it. I'd just find a used mag bolt face rifle on arms list or GunBroker and build a separate rifle.


Yea, after lots of looking I went to EuroOptic for the T3 closeouts. :)
 
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H'mm thread full of tikka lovers perfect! I have a couple of question you may be able to answer. I just went to Cabelas and looked at a Tikka T3X TAC A1 after reading up on it and was surprised by 2 things. 1, the folding stock had a good 1/8" of play rear of the folding knuckle. 2, I understand it has a 2 stage adjustable rigger but the take up before any resistance was over 1/2" then a fairly stiff pull to fire, it felt very weird and loose nothing like any other 2 or single stage I own.....I was all excited to add this Tikka to my collection but these issues caused me to walk away that and it sounds like Customer service could be an issue so problems out of the gate would suck.

Bark
 
H'mm thread full of tikka lovers perfect! I have a couple of question you may be able to answer. I just went to Cabelas and looked at a Tikka T3X TAC A1 after reading up on it and was surprised by 2 things. 1, the folding stock had a good 1/8" of play rear of the folding knuckle. 2, I understand it has a 2 stage adjustable rigger but the take up before any resistance was over 1/2" then a fairly stiff pull to fire, it felt very weird and loose nothing like any other 2 or single stage I own.....I was all excited to add this Tikka to my collection but these issues caused me to walk away that and it sounds like Customer service could be an issue so problems out of the gate would suck.

Bark

Try to scrape up a Tikka TSR-1 if you can. It has a single stage trigger, zero play, and is still in a chassie.
 
Ill be able to join the Tikka world now, ordered a T3x lite compact for the kiddo. 223, going to get a Boyds AT1 stock, I am going to build a mini chassis for it to take AICS mags, and thread the barrel for a can.
 
how do you guys like this rifle? obviously a lot, since it's a tikka thread... but I mean, do you have others to compare to?

Which specific rifle are you asking about? In my case, it's the Tikka TSR-1 I picked up and am liking it quite a bit. Being as the TSR is a short and light rifle with a folding stock and 20" barrel and my other rifles are either Savage LR or Stiller TAC-30AW in Manners T4A, or R700 LR, the TSR-1 fills a slightly different niche.

If you consider the price of under $1300 and the few rifles in that price range, I believe that it compares very favorably. I just picked up a gen 1 Ruger RPR and, while the Ruger does the job well enough, I prefer the Tikka action, bolt cycling smoothness, and trigger over the Ruger. I also like how handy the Tikka is and the general look and feel of the package. The stock on the Tikka is more solid feeling (McRee G10) than the Ruger RPR stock, but the RPR is more easily adjusted on the fly.
 
I like the look of that. How does it feel while cycling slow and fast?

For me it is much quicker than a swept handle or the factory that is slightly swept back. My thumb rides high/vertically on the stock (MPA thumb cutout) so it is really easy to just use my index finger under the bolt handle and thumb on the stock to lift the bolt open, which saves time instead of having to grab the bolt.

The pineapple bolt handle has more usable room to grip, due to the texturing and not a ball, even though it is about the same length as the factory. With ball type handles you have to get above the upper half of the ball or else your hand will slip off. I had this happen a couple times running the factory bolt handle positionally which kinda dissuaded me from the swept handle.

I also think the texturing of the pineapple would help in sticky bolt lift situations or issues chambering a round since I seem to have more control of the bolt and more force behind my action.

These are just my first impressions, hopefully I'll be able to get out and shoot it Monday and report back. Each person will differ with preference as you can tell by the amount of people who love the swept handles.

I am really pleased with both parts from Sterk. The machining is simply superb.
 
For me it is much quicker than a swept handle or the factory that is slightly swept back. My thumb rides high/vertically on the stock (MPA thumb cutout) so it is really easy to just use my index finger under the bolt handle and thumb on the stock to lift the bolt open, which saves time instead of having to grab the bolt.

The pineapple bolt handle has more usable room to grip, due to the texturing and not a ball, even though it is about the same length as the factory. With ball type handles you have to get above the upper half of the ball or else your hand will slip off. I had this happen a couple times running the factory bolt handle positionally which kinda dissuaded me from the swept handle.

I also think the texturing of the pineapple would help in sticky bolt lift situations or issues chambering a round since I seem to have more control of the bolt and more force behind my action.

These are just my first impressions, hopefully I'll be able to get out and shoot it Monday and report back. Each person will differ with preference as you can tell by the amount of people who love the swept handles.

I am really pleased with both parts from Sterk. The machining is simply superb.

How does it differ from someone selling state side like glades

http://gladesarmory.com/tikka/56/ti...le-with-stainless-steel-cross-hatch-knob.html

Not sure how long it would take to arrive if you order from Sterk.

 
I have a question for 6.5 Creedmoor CTR owners - are you using most of your magazine length in order to get reasonably close to the lands? I have to seat to maximum mag length to get within 0.030 for the 147 ELD's and within 0.075 for the 140 RDF's. Just wondering if that's about the norm or I just have a long throated chamber. Thanks for your help!
 
I have a question for 6.5 Creedmoor CTR owners - are you using most of your magazine length in order to get reasonably close to the lands? I have to seat to maximum mag length to get within 0.030 for the 147 ELD's and within 0.075 for the 140 RDF's. Just wondering if that's about the norm or I just have a long throated chamber. Thanks for your help!
Tikkas are well known for having that issue (short mag OAL/long throat) In my 6.5 CM CTR with the 140gr ELD-M if I want to be "near the lands" (less than .050" off) I have to single feed. You can install a DBM and with AICS mags to get a little bit more OAL but never enough to get to the lands. One thing to note is that at least in my CTR I don't see any change in accuracy between a load that fit in my magazine (.060" off) than another loads at .010"-.030" off the lands.
 
Tikkas are well known for having that issue (short mag OAL/long throat) In my 6.5 CM CTR with the 140gr ELD-M if I want to be "near the lands" (less than .050" off) I have to single feed. You can install a DBM and with AICS mags to get a little bit more OAL but never enough to get to the lands. One thing to note is that at least in my CTR I don't see any change in accuracy between a load that fit in my magazine (.060" off) than another loads at .010"-.030" off the lands.

Thanks! From what I've heard our CTR mags can be loaded longer than AICS mags, but might be mistaken about that.
 
Thanks! From what I've heard our CTR mags can be loaded longer than AICS mags, but might be mistaken about that.
I can load to about 2.93 in my ctr mags, I only have one load that is even close to that in my 260 but it is nice to have the room if I use different bullets one day. Waiting on my Sterk swept bolt handle and titanium shroud to dress it up a bit, I plan to pick up the new KRG Bravo when they hit the market next month.
 
I have had issues with Glades and Savage handles, I wouldn't buy another one from them.

I've bought a couple of Tikka's handles from Glades, both fit w/o problems but be careful with them, their CS is unexistent, they don't have any phone to call and never answer your emails.
 
Thanks! From what I've heard our CTR mags can be loaded longer than AICS mags, but might be mistaken about that.
Accurate mag does offer a mag that you can seat out to 2.95", I run those in my Tikka with the mountain tactical bottom metal. Also American rifle company released a mag a while ago that allows for the same COAL.

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That is reason enough to get it. I don't like the idea of screwing things on...make it one piece. It's not an accessory that you want to change every time you go out the house.
Of the 3 swept handle offerings, Sterk, Anarchy Outdoors and Glades. The glades definitely has the least amount sweep, it isn't much more then the factory handle. Anarchy has a good sweep to it but they don't compare to the for and finish of the Sterk. My opinion is that the only thing Glades got right was the size of the rounded knob. I will be placing another order through sterk here shortly for my 223 match rifle. I'm sure it will be a long wait but it will be worth it. I will probably run the Anarchy handle and glades rounded knob until then.

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Is it worth getting the shroud if your factory gun came with a metal shroud? Trying to see what the benefit might be.
At that point it would be purely cosmetic. I had the factory metal shroud on mine but replaced it with the sterk anyway.

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Where are y'all getting the Sterk handles from? I think one of the ball or pineapple would work for my daughter. I was going to just turn the handle down and thread it, but it's hollow and I don't have time for another project.
 
Where are y'all getting the Sterk handles from? I think one of the ball or pineapple would work for my daughter. I was going to just turn the handle down and thread it, but it's hollow and I don't have time for another project.
You need to go to Sterk Facebook webpage.
 
Tikka T3 Upgrade
Proof Carbon Barrel
MCM Game Scout
Zeiss V6 3-18X50 Zmoa reticle
Mountain Tatical Bolt Shroud and Bolt Handle
Iota Outdoors Triad ZL Rings
Built by Horizon Firearms
Shot with Nosler Factory Ammo 175 ABLR first time out.
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