Tikka T3 Thread

Anyone know the size of a tikka bolt catch release retainer roll pin? or can measure one for me?
I can’t put my hands on my kit at this time, painting my shop… but I did purchase this kit from LRI…all the parts you need..My mistake!!! MOUNTAIN TACTICAL is where I ordered mine, looks like they are out of stock now… no surprise… you can get on there website and research dealers,,, one might have the full kit,,, if no luck… I will be able to access my kit tomorrow and get some measurements for you… best I can do,,, Charlie112
 
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I can’t put my hands on my kit at this time, painting my shop… but I did purchase this kit from LRI…all the parts you need..My mistake!!! MOUNTAIN TACTICAL is where I ordered mine, looks like they are out of stock now… no surprise… you can get on there website and research dealers,,, one might have the full kit,,, if no luck… I will be able to access my kit tomorrow and get some measurements for you… best I can do,,, Charlie112
Thanks
 
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Started life as a Tac A1. Now all that remains is the action and trigger. :LOL:
 

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Allways heard Tikka barrels are slow, having a hard time justifying that with my last test.
Had two boxes of .277 caliber 150gr ABLR sitting around and decided to test them with H1000 and fed 215 primers in 270 Win. They topped out at 2953fps in a 22" barrel in a tikka T3 lite.

The last five loaded slightly past mag length restrictions to avoid compression but only by .010-.015" showed no pressure signs in Black Hills brass AKA Winchester. At mag length i saw velocities around 2930fps easilily and feel that is the sweet spot. Anyone else played with this combo?
Seems like a great combo for everything from elk to hogs.
I have a new work up to test with 140 accubonds and 150 partitions to see what it will top out with but seems like overkill with most scenarios for my needs.
Still toying with the idea of rebarreling to a 6.5x55AI but not sure i can come close to the performance im seeing in this configuration.
 
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Still toying with the idea of rebarreling to a 6.5x55AI but not sure i can come close to the performance im seeing in this configuration.
Buddy ran Berger 156 at 2950 from just a normal 6.5x55, of course, that's way over the red line, but except shortened brass and barrel life, everything was fine.
Can't remember barrel length, but I think it was 26" or 28".
 
Are any of you guys hanging suppressors on the end of factory length 7mm Mag sporter barrels?

My smith, who is big into PRS, says it’ll be too cantilevered/whippy and really hard to shoot well.
The sporter barrels are pretty thin at the end. Add to that you would have to remove additional material in order to create the thread. I would suggest you replace the barrel first.
For me, I plan on ordering a bull barrel when it is time to replace it and that one will be threaded.

I totally agree with your smith.

(I really intensely dislike auto correct. Sporter became shorter and additional became addition? LoL )
 
The sporter barrels are pretty thin at the end. Add to that you would have to remove additional material in order to create the thread. I would suggest you replace the barrel first.
For me, I plan on ordering a bull barrel when it is time to replace it and that one will be threaded.

I totally agree with your smith.

(I really intensely dislike auto correct. Sporter became shorter and additional became addition? LoL )
Ive got an ultra 7 on my t3x lite stainless. Thunderbeast face mount cb brake. 9/16 thread and uses muzzle face for shoulder.
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6.5 creed.

9/16 thread is good to 30 cal. Groove to thread root is over 0.100" wall thickness.
Thunderbeast does not recommend 1/2-28 on 6.5 or larger on centerfires.
SAAMI specifications
 
Are any of you guys hanging suppressors on the end of factory length 7mm Mag sporter barrels?

My smith, who is big into PRS, says it’ll be too cantilevered/whippy and really hard to shoot well.
It'll change your POI quite a bit, but doesn't seem to negatively effect accuracy as long as you tune your loads for it.
Pretty much everyone here run suppressors here, no matter the barrel, and most shoot better with than without, no matter barrel profile.
 
The sporter barrels are pretty thin at the end. Add to that you would have to remove additional material in order to create the thread. I would suggest you replace the barrel first.
For me, I plan on ordering a bull barrel when it is time to replace it and that one will be threaded.

I totally agree with your smith.

(I really intensely dislike auto correct. Sporter became shorter and additional became addition? LoL )
So you have no experience in this matter then, but are pontificating again

Thankfully we have people with real world experience adding to the conversation
 
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Mine is 24.3”
Thanks! I just needed a perspective. 👍
It shot well and it was a handy hunting rifle, but I’ve replaced the barrel with medium Palma so I could shoot 10-20 rounds without overheating the barrel. The barrel is one pound heavier now, but I’ve saved 1.5 pounds by switching to UPR stock.
 

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I'm new to this so be gentle. I got this 6.5 Varmint a couple weeks ago. I've only been shootin Walmart American Eagle through it and so far I'm very impressed. With less than a hundred rounds through it and a left over simple scope setup it shot .34 MOA at 100. Using Strelok I was hitting a 6" 320 yard plate a little right of center with no problem. I dialed two clicks left and moved out to a 10" 500 yard plate I went six for six. Dead center. It didn't go perfectly because after that 6, I went 0 for 5 at a 8" plate at 620. I couldn't make adjustments because the plate is infront of a dark woodline. I went back to swatting the 500 to end on a high note.

I'm having lots of fun with a bone stock rifle. I still haven't shot in proper style so I look forward getting better results. Thanks for letting me share.
 

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Any magic juju oil or bore conditioner that will prevent rust in my Tikka t3x Compact .223 bore? Other than clean it soon after shooting it I don't have any clues what to do.
If you are in a wet environment with your gun, follow your typical clean process. On the outside dry and apply a very light coat of wd 40 or use a silicone impregnated cloth to wipe down your gun. The WD stands for water displacement.
Use your normal lube process with your action. In cleaning your chamber and bore your normal cleaning materials should displace moisture.

If you waded through a river you might want to disassemble stock and action to get into more places to dry moisture and apply water displacement. I would. More than just water will likely be present.
 
Tikka TAC A1 Questions and Extractor Removal

What material is used for the receiver, barrel and bolt? Are any of these stainless steel or just carbon steel?

This rifle is unfired except for factory testing. I noticed the bolt face has an orange tint. Is this normal? I tried cleaning with the usual solvents, but they had no effect.

To do a more complete inspection and cleaning I have been trying to remove the extractor, but have been unsuccessful. I have not been able to find any instructions on the Internet, but I have seen reference to using a jeweler’s screwdriver tip or a dental pick. I understand how the extractor is captured, but any tool used to depress the plunger and spring blocks the extractor removal.

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I did find a video for the removal of a Sabatti Tactical 308 bolt extractor that shows how to use a jeweler’s screwdriver, but I was still not able to lift the extractor out.

Here is the video for the Sabatti Tactical 308 bolt disassembly/ dismantle



I am assuming that the reason for the color of the Tikka extractor is due to heat-treating. Could this be the reason for the discoloration on my bolt face? I was concerned it might be corrosion.
 
I just tried something different and it came right out. I lifted the extractor a little and slid a jeweler’s screwdriver tip under the extractor. Then I compressed the extractor plunger fully with another jeweler’s screwdriver and pressed lightly on the other screwdriver tip and the extractor lifted right out. Hope this helps others looking to remove their extractor.

This brings me back to whether the dull orange tint on the bolt face is corrosion or heat-treating.
 
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I just tried something different and it came right out. I lifted the extractor a little and slid a jeweler’s screwdriver tip under the extractor. Then I compressed the extractor plunger fully with another jeweler’s screwdriver and pressed lightly on the other screwdriver tip and the extractor lifted right out. Hope this helps others looking to remove their extractor.

This brings me back to whether the dull orange tint on the bolt face is corrosion or heat-treating.
I want to believe that it cannot be corrosion. I have never experienced rust anywhere on any of the bolts I have owned over the last 50 years.
 
That color is normal for Tikka bolt faces.

Just wondering why you are taking the extractor apart and you haven't even fired your rifle yet?

Thank you for your comment.

If I was dealing with corrosion I wanted to remove it with Flitz. I would not want to get the fine polishing compound in the ejector and extractor components.
 
I'm new to this so be gentle. I got this 6.5 Varmint a couple weeks ago. I've only been shootin Walmart American Eagle through it and so far I'm very impressed. With less than a hundred rounds through it and a left over simple scope setup it shot .34 MOA at 100. Using Strelok I was hitting a 6" 320 yard plate a little right of center with no problem. I dialed two clicks left and moved out to a 10" 500 yard plate I went six for six. Dead center. It didn't go perfectly because after that 6, I went 0 for 5 at a 8" plate at 620. I couldn't make adjustments because the plate is infront of a dark woodline. I went back to swatting the 500 to end on a high note.

I'm having lots of fun with a bone stock rifle. I still haven't shot in proper style so I look forward getting better results. Thanks for letting me share.
Nothing better than a gun that likes cheap available ammo. Awesome shooting spot.
 
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Buddy ran Berger 156 at 2950 from just a normal 6.5x55, of course, that's way over the red line, but except shortened brass and barrel life, everything was fine.
Can't remember barrel length, but I think it was 26" or 28".
I have been reading on the 6.5x55AI and 6.5GWI but throated long for over a year and keep coming back to just a straight 6.5x55 for ease of acquiring dies and no forming.
Since it's just going to be a hunting rifle it seems like the most logical choice.
I'm sure I will chase my tail some more before I get it done but I'm a gluten for punishment.