Tikka T3 Thread

Ah the factory colour. Funnily enough it looks a little more yellow/gold on my phone. Maybe an idea for a Cerakote job :unsure:
Let’s be honest. It’s coyote. The brown part is just subjective. I’ve had it next to a couple of different cerakoted rifles in FDE and and tan. The best description I can give is mixing cerakote H-225 and a little H-144.
Not really brown, not really gold.
 
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Let’s be honest. It’s coyote. The brown part is just subjective. I’ve had it next to a couple of different cerakoted rifles in FDE and and tan. The best description I can give is mixing cerakote H-225 and a little H-144.
Not really brown, not really gold.
Well it looks nice on my phone, even my wife commented. I'm running a boring black Tac A1, when it comes to a rebarrel I may have to think about something a little more interesting!
 
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Had a 308 play date with my Tikka T3X CTR in 308 and the M1A scout. It was the first time I shot the Tikka since putting it in the new Grayboe and painting it. The zero was way off, but 3 round later it was back where it needs to be. I had a handful of Fed GMM 175gr, but then played with some Winchester M118 175gr and I was really impressed with how well it shot for what it is. Definitely a viable option in a pinch.

With the turnaround times on silencers people are getting now I've been thinking about getting a direct thread can for my Tikka that just stays on that rifle for forever. Any suggestions on something lighter weight?

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Ran across these the other day. Beautiful pics showing a tikka factory barrel prior to any ammo being fired down it. Call me a good n geek but I find these to be things of beauty. The only thing missing is the smell of gun oil lol my favorite cologne
 

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Ran across these the other day. Beautiful pics showing a tikka factory barrel prior to any ammo being fired down it. Call me a good n geek but I find these to be things of beauty. The only thing missing is the smell of gun oil lol my favorite cologne
I have to wonder about a “break in process” when the barrel is that purty, and why bother? Just shoot it 😃
 
Haven't seen this posted in a while. It agrees with you.
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Eggzactly!!
I have never followed one of those odd break in processes. I didn’t before there was an internet simply because I had never heard of such. I didn’t after there was an internet because the whole thing of shoot once, clean barrel, shoot 5, clean barrel seemed weird as F.
The video from inside the barrel validates my thoughts.
 
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I don't care either way on breaking in a barrel, but if there's any chance it'll help at all I don't have any issue running a cleaning patch too often when the first few shots are going down the barrel.
Supposedly the reason is that a new barrel will have burrs etc. If it’s as smooth and perfect as the one pictured above, I see no reason. I would clean it after a day at the range but no way am I following the 1 shot, 5 shot, 10 shot process I have occasionally seen. I have also seen remarks (which I believe) that your barrel, when new, is as good as it will ever be and it will only wear from shot 1.
However, you make a good point. It won’t hurt anything to give it a clean after a few shots.
 
I'll make separate thread if it is offtopic here, let me know.
Can recoil lug (aluminum) in factory stock cause excessive vertical? Stock is as is from factory, but recoil lug is glued, so I can't turn it upside down to new corner. I tried to eliminate vertical stringing by trying another scope, another load, another bipod, all the same, vertical at least 4 times bigger than horizontal. All testing prone at 100 meters. Today I borrowed another factory tikka stock, shot from wobbly sand bag and get at least what I can call a group. I have Lothar Walther barrel and that borrowed stock has no barrel clearance, so, no ideal test. My stock is sanded to accept thicker barrel, but again - glued lug. Scope base is glued on epoxy, I can't turn screws so I think it is solid.
If that glued lug is the reason for my problems, can I drill it out and bed new one in place? Where I live there is not much alternatives to get and try chassis or aftermarket stocks, so I'm stuck with original for a while. My biggest question - did I isolate my problem?
 
I'll make separate thread if it is offtopic here, let me know.
Can recoil lug (aluminum) in factory stock cause excessive vertical? Stock is as is from factory, but recoil lug is glued, so I can't turn it upside down to new corner. I tried to eliminate vertical stringing by trying another scope, another load, another bipod, all the same, vertical at least 4 times bigger than horizontal. All testing prone at 100 meters. Today I borrowed another factory tikka stock, shot from wobbly sand bag and get at least what I can call a group. I have Lothar Walther barrel and that borrowed stock has no barrel clearance, so, no ideal test. My stock is sanded to accept thicker barrel, but again - glued lug. Scope base is glued on epoxy, I can't turn screws so I think it is solid.
If that glued lug is the reason for my problems, can I drill it out and bed new one in place? Where I live there is not much alternatives to get and try chassis or aftermarket stocks, so I'm stuck with original for a while. My biggest question - did I isolate my problem?
Are your action bolts (pillar) bedded? If not I would suggest that. Then you can torque your action bolts down to 60 lbs. Also, using a couple of dollar bills (or whatever paper currency is available) verify your barrel is clear of the stock.
 
Are T3X Varmint SS very hard to come by in USA? My FFL has been looking for one in .223Rem for me for over a month now. I have a blued T3X Varmint in 6.5CM that I really like and want to get one in stainless in .223Rem for woodchucking and some target shooting, but now I am wondering if I should just get a SS Lite model or keep waiting.
 
Are T3X Varmint SS very hard to come by in USA? My FFL has been looking for one in .223Rem for me for over a month now. I have a blued T3X Varmint in 6.5CM that I really like and want to get one in stainless in .223Rem for woodchucking and some target shooting, but now I am wondering if I should just get a SS Lite model or keep waiting.
gundeals.com & gunbroker have them all the time. Nothing is hard to find, but most gun dealers I've met talk with 1 distributor or maybe 2.
 
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Btw. All 5by5 groups from 43,1 to 43,5 grains were shot at the same paper target with same poa.

All 25 shots were about 31mm. So, yes, I would say the consistancy ist repeatable and there are 0.5 grains of tolerance having this precision.
Just curious, as I didn’t ask, but you reference 43.1 to 43.5 grains charge, what was the break or was it .4 and just 43.1 and 43.5. You reference 25 shots and 5 shots per group, so it seems that your charges were 43.1,43.2,43.3,43.4 and 43.5, no?
 
I reffered to this ;-)
No worries. I wasn’t planning on getting into this, but you seem to insist. At .1 difference in charge weights, we are talking roughly 10 ft/sec mv difference, no? What would you say were the SD’s of each group? Even though you haven’t repeated the test exactly you remark about the liklihood of being able to duplicate complete results. I find it odd to say that when you have not. Probably never have conducted a complete duplication of load analysis because that is not something anyone normally does. Usually we get what we call a good charge and call it quits. This includes me until I began to question a couple of results. Then I did, and the differences were… interesting.
I am going to leave it at that. If you are curious, great. If not then also great. As some have remarked here: there is no such thing as a node when developing loads. There is only insufficient data. Science dictates that an increase in charge results in an increase in pressure and an increase in mv, if all else is equal.
Have a great day! I love the 308, although I have never owned one in Tikka, and I wish I had. A great rifle manufacturer and a great cartridge. The 6.5 I bought had about as perfect a bore as I think is possible. Just beautiful.
 
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If be interested to see what bullet weights you can use and COAL. I've thought about one in 7 RM but I don't think I could run 180gr in a factory Tikka.
From what I see 175 grain bullet is possible at 1/9.5 spin rate. It does appear that a 1:9 would work (as a minimum) for 180 grain VLD Berger. I imagine you could order a barrel at that spec.
 
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Last weekend we finished my son's rifle. T3 with 20MOA steel rail which I might change for a lighter Spuhr one. PSE Evolution monocoque carbon fibre stock with wide barrel channel and CTR mag inlet. Precision moulded bedding area with carbon pillar blocks. Proof prefit Sendero Carbon barrel 22" 1/8 6.5CM. Atlasworx AICS mag system with 3 shot plastic MDT mag. Overall weight with the heavy rail 6.6lbs.

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OHQmzTT.jpg


edi
 
Last weekend we finished my son's rifle. T3 with 20MOA steel rail which I might change for a lighter Spuhr one. PSE Evolution monocoque carbon fibre stock with wide barrel channel and CTR mag inlet. Precision moulded bedding area with carbon pillar blocks. Proof prefit Sendero Carbon barrel 22" 1/8 6.5CM. Atlasworx AICS mag system with 3 shot plastic MDT mag. Overall weight with the heavy rail 6.6lbs.

Qovrbp4.jpg


5HO50sR.jpg


OHQmzTT.jpg


edi
Murphy Precision makes titanium rails if you wanted to go that direction.
 
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Last weekend we finished my son's rifle. T3 with 20MOA steel rail which I might change for a lighter Spuhr one. PSE Evolution monocoque carbon fibre stock with wide barrel channel and CTR mag inlet. Precision moulded bedding area with carbon pillar blocks. Proof prefit Sendero Carbon barrel 22" 1/8 6.5CM. Atlasworx AICS mag system with 3 shot plastic MDT mag. Overall weight with the heavy rail 6.6lbs.

Qovrbp4.jpg


5HO50sR.jpg


OHQmzTT.jpg


edi
You are a great dad
 
Looking at Tikka offerings with regards to cartridges and twist rates, does anyone else think they're leaving money on the table by not updating more of them? I'm presuming it's because their target market is mainly hunters.
 
Looking at Tikka offerings with regards to cartridges and twist rates, does anyone else think they're leaving money on the table by not updating more of them? I'm presuming it's because their target market is mainly hunters.
I would say 1% of 1% of hunters are doing any turret twisting or need High BC to shoot small deer.

Most are more concerned about ammunition cost and getting cheaper scope rings.

Not to mention a new T3x SS Lite now costs $2100 in my country… next door neighbour to Finland. How much in the States?
 
I would say 1% of 1% of hunters are doing any turret twisting or need High BC to shoot small deer.

Most are more concerned about ammunition cost and getting cheaper scope rings.

Not to mention a new T3x SS Lite now costs $2100 in my country… next door neighbour to Finland. How much in the States?
~$850-$900 for the SS Lite in the US.
 
I would say 1% of 1% of hunters are doing any turret twisting or need High BC to shoot small deer.

Most are more concerned about ammunition cost and getting cheaper scope rings.

Not to mention a new T3x SS Lite now costs $2100 in my country… next door neighbour to Finland. How much in the States?
I bought one last year for mid $800’s. It was a great buy, IMO. 6.5 creedmoor, 24.3” barrel. With my modifications I have raised the weight up to 12.8 lbs. I really didn’t like the “lite” aspect but had no other options in this area. I prefer some heft to my rifles. 15 pounds being optimal, IMO.