Tikka T3 Thread

223 is coming along. Got the glass put on it. Going to send the stock off too Taylor Precision to have a adjustable cheek piece installed. Once it's back, going to bed it then off to load development.
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223 is coming along. Got the glass put on it. Going to send the stock off too Taylor Precision to have a adjustable cheek piece installed. Once it's back, going to bed it then off to load development.
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Love it Tevan, that's going to be my next project. Which magazines are you using for the .223 and is that a Moutain Tacticle bottom metal? How do you like it?
 
Love it Tevan, that's going to be my next project. Which magazines are you using for the .223 and is that a Moutain Tacticle bottom metal? How do you like it?
I'm planning to use accurate 223 mags, but I may try the MDT mags since they are half the price. It is a mountain tactical bottom metal and I love it. I don't have any complaints about it, and they are an awesome company to work with!

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Hey guys i am looking at picking up a stock for my T3x CTR in .308 but i wanted to see if any of you knew the contour of the .308 20" barrel. This will be a little hunting/comp rig for the time being, and down the road will have a Medium palma contour and wanted to know: is the Med palma a larger diameter then the CTR contour? Couldn't find specs on the ctr contour so thanks in advance.

current specs will be:
Tikka t3x CTR
MT 20moa rail
Leupold Mark 6 3-18 H59
7 slot magpul rail w/ atlas bipod

ill post some pictures this weekend once everything is mounted and hopefully sighted in.
 
The T3X CTR has a factory Tikka contour barrel with a .80" muzzle diameter. The medium palma is a different contour and has .82" muzzle diameter. If you order from Manners they will inlet your stock to fit the standard CTR barrel. I asked them if they could special inlet for the Hardy carbon fiber heavy palma barrel I ordered after the fact, and they said they couldn't. It could be that they were to far along in the fitting process for the CTR barrel to change the order. They might be able to do it if you request it when you initially place your order. I'm having the smith who is chambering and threading my barrel open the barrel channel to accept the heavy palma barrel.
 
Let's be clear here; a Medium Palma is 0.820" @ 30". Due to taper @ 20" a medium Palma would be quite thicker. A Light Palma is 0.750" @30". My Tikka CTR 260 Barrel measures 0.790" just aft of the threaded portion. So a CTR barrel is more like a 30" Light Palma cut to 20". Which is a fine contour for a dual duty Hunting or Light Tactical type rifle, which the CTR certainly is. Most shooters today are using overweight rifles, with contours way too heavy for intended practical use in non-magnum chamberings. Rifles are meant to be man-portable, and not crew-served.

The lighter contours like medium or light Palma, Rem Varmint and Bartliens #3B or #4 contours are more useful than most people give them credit for, especially in barrels lengths shorter than 21".
 
Let's be clear here; a Medium Palma is 0.820" @ 30". Due to taper @ 20" a medium Palma would be quite thicker. A Light Palma is 0.750" @30". My Tikka CTR 260 Barrel measures 0.790" just aft of the threaded portion. So a CTR barrel is more like a 30" Light Palma cut to 20". Which is a fine contour for a dual duty Hunting or Light Tactical type rifle, which the CTR certainly is. Most shooters today are using overweight rifles, with contours way too heavy for intended practical use in non-magnum chamberings. Rifles are meant to be man-portable, and not crew-served.

The lighter contours like medium or light Palma, Rem Varmint and Bartliens #3B or #4 contours are more useful than most people give them credit for, especially in barrels lengths shorter than 21".

Thanks for the reply bob, the reason behind this is ill probably be getting another tikka down the road in 6.5 or 260 to use in prs and ill throw it in this a5 then get get a game scout for the .308 since at that point it will only be a hunting rifle. that's my thinking anyway.

Also, CCollins those are both MCM A5's
 
Has anyone had issues with the bolt stop on the Tikkas breaking? I recall a thread from a while back where two went down in a match and they had to use sharpies to compete the match...
 
Has anyone had issues with the bolt stop on the Tikkas breaking? I recall a thread from a while back where two went down in a match and they had to use sharpies to compete the match...

I did. I improvised and temporarily fixed it with a cut down drill bit shank of the appropriate diameter. The OEM bolt stop was some type of polymer and the pin hole had elongated.

I just installed a steel bolt stop kit from Tikka Performance / Mountain Tactical and have the OEM kit as a spare.
 
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I did. I improvised and temporarily fixed it with a cut down drill bit shank of the appropriate diameter. The OEM bolt stop was some type of polymer and the pin hole had elongated.

I just installed a steel bolt stop kit from Tikka Performance / Mountain Tactical and have the OEM kit as a spare.

Thanks for that. Is that on the newer T3’s or is it common on them all to have the polymer stop?
 
Thanks for that. Is that on the newer T3’s or is it common on them all to have the polymer stop?

None of my 16 Tikka T3 rifles had polymer bolt stop. It is metal when it comes from factory. I dont think no one makes polymer bolt stop even of aftermarket part because it wouldnt last more than fev rounds.
 
Anyone know if the factory DBM from a wssm T3 has the same inlet as the factory DBM of a T3x CTR? Looking at a McMillan stock that had a T3 build in it with factory DBM and wondering if a CTR will drop in.
The T3 has a different inlet then the CTR. Attached are some pictures of the difference between the T3/T3X and the CTR bottom metal. The T3/T3X mag system will drop into a stock inlet for a CTR DBM, but not the other way around. The stock with the factory sticker is the T3X, the other is the CTR. Hope this helps?

You can however, send the stock back into McMillan and they will re-inlet it for the CTR.

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The T3 has a different inlet then the CTR. Attached are some pictures of the difference between the T3/T3X and the CTR bottom metal. The T3/T3X mag system will drop into a stock inlet for a CTR DBM, but not the other way around. The stock with the factory sticker is the T3X, the other is the CTR. Hope this helps?

You can however, send the stock back into McMillan and they will re-inlet it for the CTR.

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Thanks
 
The polymer bolt stop was on a T3x CTR purchased in 2017.

I genuinely would love to see a picture of that. I've met many Tikka owners that think the bolt stop is plastic - but is metal. Pretty sure the improvements Tikka made going to the t3x didn't include a plastic bolt stop, and I cannot imagine the Fins at Sako/Tikka making a quiet change like that. But I could be wrong.
tevan0707 I see a Titanium shroud on the .223 but where's that extra swept handle? ;)
 
I genuinely would love to see a picture of that. I've met many Tikka owners that think the bolt stop is plastic - but is metal. Pretty sure the improvements Tikka made going to the t3x didn't include a plastic bolt stop, and I cannot imagine the Fins at Sako/Tikka making a quiet change like that. But I could be wrong.
tevan0707 I see a Titanium shroud on the .223 but where's that extra swept handle? ;)
@cannoncrossfire it's still packed up in one my reloading room boxes that I can't get to get I'm building my bench today so I can finally start too unpack all those boxes!!!

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I did a 10 shot barrel break in. This 5 shot group are shots 10-15 (clean bore, no fouler shots). Overall I'm really pleased by the new 223! I was shooting Black Hills Match ammo. Cant wait to get my mcmillan back from taylor precision and see what i can do with some hand loads.
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Any update on this? I got the polymer mag but would prefer metal. Also, did you buy directly from them or another seller?
Just to give an update. Of the 15 rounds I ran through my Accurate 223, I didn't have any issues and they fed like butter. I will keep you updated as I get more rounds through them.

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Thanks. My MDT mag has about 1/4" movement back and forth (if you hold it from the bottom, you can "rock it"). The forearm can't be moved any more as the screw holes will not be aligned. And, I really don't feel like taking the action out and disassembling the trigger guard to move it forward a little. Might just live with it for now. Feeds fine, just a bit annoying to have that much movement.


There re is a YouTube on adjusting the play. 2 ways to do it, the screw inside the chassis and also by loosening the forearm and bringing it to the rear. Mine insert fairly easy and have little to no play.
 
Tikka action
Bartlien RV contour chambered in 6.5x47
Manners T6A
CDI bottom metal
Burris XTR ii 4-20x50
Not shown in the picture
Altas Bolt Handle
Beast brake from muzzlebrakesandmore.com
 

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Busted Bolt Stop Pin...

Thanks for posting the photo, I double checked my bolt stops with a magnet and both are magnetic - if you were unsure if plastic or not. I think Tikka would have way more problems if they made the stop out of plastic instead of steel/metal.
There are a few aftermarket bolt stops on the market so i'd check out one of them to replace it.

@TSU99 That's a sweet Tikka build, haven't upgraded the bolt handle with all those other upgrades?
 
There re is a YouTube on adjusting the play. 2 ways to do it, the screw inside the chassis and also by loosening the forearm and bringing it to the rear. Mine insert fairly easy and have little to no play.

Thanks found a few where the fore end is adjusted but nothing that shows the trigger guard adjustments.
 
As for the bolt stop problem, i heard Dallas Rifle was making one soon, a Tikka Bolt Stop that helped put less stress on the pin. Im not sure where they are with that but i sure would like to see it soon. Plenty of interest.
 
As for the bolt stop problem, i heard Dallas Rifle was making one soon, a Tikka Bolt Stop that helped put less stress on the pin. Im not sure where they are with that but i sure would like to see it soon. Plenty of interest.

We're closing in. The project was moved to the back burner for a while, but we've had enough interest lately that we're making it a priority now. ETA is out of my hands at the moment, though.
 
Bought my second Tikka at the end of last year.
Previously I have a Tic Tac in 300 WM I got 7 years ago and I am happy with it. Keeps sub-moa at 1 km, in factory condition (I mean the original stock). I've shot it mostly suppressed, or sometimes plain barreled (no brake, don't fancy these very much). But it does kick, a lightweight as it is. Pics are of it.

What I bought was a new Tac A1, 308 Win with 20' barrel. Now there are some curious things. First, in this part of the world the rifle comes with only one magazine, not 2 or 3 you get and I did not get any bipod stud (MLOK or other). But the main surprise came to me in the way that all rifles are not equal. What I mean is that the Tikka declares everywhere the barrel as medium profile with imperial muzzle thread (AR10 basically), regardless of the barrel length. But at the store the usual 24' and shorter 20' did not look the same to me. Turns out the shorter one is a MIL version with the barrel from TRG (OD of 22 mm IIRC at the muzzle) and it's M18x1 muzzle thread. Same as my old TicTac. So yeah, if I can choose, that's the one that came home with me. Now I have to get a bipod and scope on, and we're golden. Lapua's 175 grain Scenar should run just fine through it.

 

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Bought my second Tikka at the end of last year.
Previously I have a Tic Tac in 300 WM I got 7 years ago and I am happy with it. Keeps sub-moa at 1 km, in factory condition (I mean the original stock). I've shot it mostly suppressed, or sometimes plain barreled (no brake, don't fancy these very much). But it does kick, a lightweight as it is. Pics are of it.

What I bought was a new Tac A1, 308 Win with 20' barrel. Now there are some curious things. First, in this part of the world the rifle comes with only one magazine, not 2 or 3 you get and I did not get any bipod stud (MLOK or other). But the main surprise came to me in the way that all rifles are not equal. What I mean is that the Tikka declares everywhere the barrel as medium profile with imperial muzzle thread (AR10 basically), regardless of the barrel length. But at the store the usual 24' and shorter 20' did not look the same to me. Turns out the shorter one is a MIL version with the barrel from TRG (OD of 22 mm IIRC at the muzzle) and it's M18x1 muzzle thread. Same as my old TicTac. So yeah, if I can choose, that's the one that came home with me. Now I have to get a bipod and scope on, and we're golden. Lapua's 175 grain Scenar should run just fine through it.
Are those cracks in the end of your can? What caused that?

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Nope, only the glue. Leftovers from camo tape, you see. I tried whether it helps to camouflage the front end or not - big grey circle. Got too hot, didn't work. I rather use the wrap and camo paint. So I pulled all the tape off and went the rattlecan way. NFM paint seems to last better anyway.
 
6.5 Creedmoor Proof Research Barrel KRG CHASSIS

but Need get the scope 34mm tube
 

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Fixed ,the rail is NightForce Base 20 MOA and the scope mount is 20 MOA 20+20 = 40 MOA ? Is too much ???

Previous original owner maybe 20-20 = 0 MOA ???

I'd say it depends on your scope. Some scopes will have enough travel that they can deal with 40MOA base. I have a NightForce ATACR 7-35 coming in a few weeks and I bought a Spuhr 30MOA mount for it. With the travel that scope has 30, or even 40, MOA is well within range of adjustments for 100 yard zero.
 
Thinking about buying a tikka and looking for some advice. It will be a 6.5 cm. I do not currently have any chassis style bolt guns but I'm thinking about the tac a1. I can't decide whether to go that route or just buy a ctr and put a manners or McMillan on it????????

It will be used for shooting paper out to 1000 and occasionally longer and used as a 200-600yd coyote and hog gun. In other words weight is not really an issue.

 
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Thinking about buying a tikka and looking for some advice. It will be a 6.5 cm. I do not currently have any chassis style bolt guns but I'm thinking about the tac a1. I can't decide whether to go that route or just buy a ctr and put a manners or McMillan on it????????

It will be used for shooting paper out to 1000 and occasionally longer and used as a 200-600yd coyote and hog gun. In other words weight is not really an issue.
Really depends on what you prefer. Best bet is to get behind a Tac A1 and see if it's comfortable. If you don't like it, then get a lite model or some other model with the appropriate bolt face and have a Smith spin you up a barrel and drop it into a Manners or a McMillan. The CTR is a great starting point but if you plan to swap the stock may as well save the extra $400-$600 you'd spend on the CTR and put it towards a custom barrel and stock.

I really like my McMillan stocks. I bought a Manners and quickly returned it due to the inlet not being centered, the color wasn't finished and the barrel channel wasn't straight. I much prefer McMillan but alot of people prefer manners to McMillan sit that again turns into a personal taste. I have my 6.5 and 223 both in McMillan A5 stocks right now. Hope this helps?
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