Tikka T3 Thread

For the people who have the Tikka CTR, did you see an improvement when you swapped the stock/chassis from what is was originally? Or is it more for the features on the new stock/chassis? Why did you change out the stock?
Here's a before and after of having my CTR in its factory stock, then bedding it in a McMillan A5. Granted it's ammo that was put together for another rifle, it still gives you an idea. But you can still achieve awesome groups in the factory stock. I just swapped mine out because the A5 fit me better.
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Not a T3, strictly speaking, but my new-to-me 595 Master Sporter. Testing it out with cheap ammo for gopher hunting. Still trying to figure out how to get the damn sticker off the stock. Will work up a match load with 149 gn match kings and 4064 as a base line.
 

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For the people who have the Tikka CTR, did you see an improvement when you swapped the stock/chassis from what is was originally? Or is it more for the features on the new stock/chassis? Why did you change out the stock?

I didn't see an improvement in accuracy, but I am more comfortable with my CTR in the GGS Predator. It is and was a .5 moa gun in either stock. I changed it out and re-barreled shortly after from 260 to a medium palma 6.5 Creedmoor. The GGS is very solid with the aluminum mini-chassis. Weighs 3.5 lbs with 2 flush cups.
 
For the people who have the Tikka CTR, did you see an improvement when you swapped the stock/chassis from what is was originally? Or is it more for the features on the new stock/chassis? Why did you change out the stock?

My groups improved, not drastically, but it was definitely noticeable. It could be my comfort with the chassis or could actually be the chassis. I think most people change to something different for features. I went with the MPA BA Competition Edition and could not be happier. Fully adjustable LOP and comb height, full length dovetail rail for bipods or tripods, barricade stops, spigot mount, cutout magwell, AICS mags, bubble level, etc.

I speculate the reason people have better results with chassis/stocks is the repeatability in the system and tolerances. I can take my barreled action out of the chassis, put it back in with the same torque specs and my zero remains the same. This was not true for my factory CTR stock.
 
Question: For those of you with a Manner's CTR drop in stock, do you recommend having the action and recoil lug professionally bedded to the stock? I recently purchased and took delivery of a Manner's T6A for my CTR and was curious. Also, do you recommend any particular gunsmith's who are familiar with Tikkas for the work?

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Thank you!

-Pete
 
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Question: For those of you with a Manner's CTR drop in stock, do you recommend having the action and recoil lug professionally bedded to the stock? I recently purchased and took delivery of a Manner's T6A for my CTR and was curious. Also, do you recommend any particular gunsmith's who are familiar with Tikkas for the work?

ED98rg.jpg


Thank you!

-Pete

Mine definitely benefitted from bedding. LRI, PVA, and SAC all do a lot of tikkas.

 
Question: For those of you with a Manner's CTR drop in stock, do you recommend having the action and recoil lug professionally bedded to the stock? I recently purchased and took delivery of a Manner's T6A for my CTR and was curious. Also, do you recommend any particular gunsmith's who are familiar with Tikkas for the work?

ED98rg.jpg


Thank you!

-Pete

Mine also benefited from bedding. But I did mine myself.
 
Any tips for setting up a t3 for a 6mm dasher? I read out there on the interwebs that it's no sweat and they run fine, but if anyone has done this, I'd appreciate any insight.

In other news, the barrel on my early-2015 vintage 20" .260 CTR just went south right at the 2000 round mark. This was with pretty hot loads to get decent speed out of the short barrel. (140 noslers and 139 scenars at 2700). It was a great tool to learn with and up til the last match it was a solid sub-minute gun (in the krg xray). I noticed low impacts at 700 or so at the match but attributed that to the cold temps that day compared to what I saw over the summer. Went out to train a couple weeks ago and had trouble hitting a 10" round at 600 in light wind. Put it on paper at 100 and it was shooting right around 1.5 moa.

I was looking for an excuse to go dasher over the winter anyway. ;)

 
Any tips for setting up a t3 for a 6mm dasher? I read out there on the interwebs that it's no sweat and they run fine, but if anyone has done this, I'd appreciate any insight.

In other news, the barrel on my early-2015 vintage 20" .260 CTR just went south right at the 2000 round mark. This was with pretty hot loads to get decent speed out of the short barrel. (140 noslers and 139 scenars at 2700). It was a great tool to learn with and up til the last match it was a solid sub-minute gun (in the krg xray). I noticed low impacts at 700 or so at the match but attributed that to the cold temps that day compared to what I saw over the summer. Went out to train a couple weeks ago and had trouble hitting a 10" round at 600 in light wind. Put it on paper at 100 and it was shooting right around 1.5 moa.

I was looking for an excuse to go dasher over the winter anyway. ;)

I bought a CTR take off barrel from Just Browsing on here and he was building a dasher on his action. Not sure how it turned out for him. He sold off everything but the action and trigger.
 
Any tips for setting up a t3 for a 6mm dasher? I read out there on the interwebs that it's no sweat and they run fine, but if anyone has done this, I'd appreciate any insight.

In other news, the barrel on my early-2015 vintage 20" .260 CTR just went south right at the 2000 round mark. This was with pretty hot loads to get decent speed out of the short barrel. (140 noslers and 139 scenars at 2700). It was a great tool to learn with and up til the last match it was a solid sub-minute gun (in the krg xray). I noticed low impacts at 700 or so at the match but attributed that to the cold temps that day compared to what I saw over the summer. Went out to train a couple weeks ago and had trouble hitting a 10" round at 600 in light wind. Put it on paper at 100 and it was shooting right around 1.5 moa.

I was looking for an excuse to go dasher over the winter anyway. ;)

Thanks for the info on barrel life. I got one this summer and I'm at the 500 round mark. I was wondering how long my 260 barrel might last. If I can get 1800 I will be thrilled.
 
I'm (impatiently) waiting on my Dasher barrel. I did track down a few of the Primal Rights AICS mag kits. Not sure if they are really required.

Whoever gets theirs first, please keep this thread up to date on your experiences.
 
Question: For those of you with a Manner's CTR drop in stock, do you recommend having the action and recoil lug professionally bedded to the stock? I recently purchased and took delivery of a Manner's T6A for my CTR and was curious. Also, do you recommend any particular gunsmith's who are familiar with Tikkas for the work?

ED98rg.jpg


Thank you!

-Pete

How does the bottom metal fit? On their site they say it sits “proud”. What does that mean?

 
Mine too sits in a manners and needed bedding. That's said, do it yourself. Just bed around the recoil lug and tang. YouTube videos online. It's not hard at all, the key a is prep and lots of release agent.
 
How does the bottom metal fit? On their site they say it sits “proud”. What does that mean?

For future reference, when someone says that it "sits proud" they mean that it sits above the surface. A primer that sits proud would be one that is not seated flush or below flush of the cartridge head.

Now, the guys above seem to not have that issue, so this may be all academic.
 
Question: For those of you with a Manner's CTR drop in stock, do you recommend having the action and recoil lug professionally bedded to the stock? I recently purchased and took delivery of a Manner's T6A for my CTR and was curious. Also, do you recommend any particular gunsmith's who are familiar with Tikkas for the work?

ED98rg.jpg


Thank you!

-Pete
Mine doesn't need any bedding at all. The bottom metal required some tweaking to get the magazine to sit and feed perfectly.

Here you have 5 shots group with it at 519 yards (sub 1/2 MOA) even counting the 4th shot that as usual was an "operator error" LOL


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Got the KRG Xray for my T3x .233. Need a magazine. What magazines are you guys running that did not require modification? I don't feel like dealing with modifying anything. Willing to pay extra for metal mags if those are the only ones that don't require mods.
 
Got the KRG Xray for my T3x .233. Need a magazine. What magazines are you guys running that did not require modification? I don't feel like dealing with modifying anything. Willing to pay extra for metal mags if those are the only ones that don't require mods.
I just ordered the Accurate 223 mags, pretty much a 308 mag with a plastic insert to fit the 223. I will let you know how it is when it gets here.

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Shout out to Josh at Patriot Valley Arms. Tikka T3X 20" factory barrel replaced with a PVA 26" medium Palma barrel.

Went to the range today and here is the results with 140gn Hornady ELDM factory.
 

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Did you remove the factory barrel? If so how difficult was it?

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I have a couple of Josh Tikka prefit nut barrels, its super easy to change, you just need a barrel vise, the nut wrench, a torque wrench and the GO and NO GO gauges of your caliber. You can change barrels in less than 10 minutes.
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