Tikka T3 Thread

Ill buy an ARC mag when that issue gets resolved. Wish I could get the 5 round magpuls to work with the Tikkas

I've heard you can use the 5 round AICS followers in the ARC mags to get them to work better but I haven't tried it. A local guy is trying to 3D print better followers, I hope he can so I can buy a few off of him.

Even with the feed lips sanded down they won't work?
 
I use the Accurate mags without the binder plate and I have a few issues. The rounds don't get stuck under the feed ramp, but the follower will bind up from time to time. But it's still worth running the mags in my opinion. When it happens I normally have to slap the mag or reach down and push on the round. It doesn't happen very often.

I'm still trying to get the ARC mags to work, the follower on those get bound up all the time so I don't trust them enough to use in a match yet.

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Thanks, I think I'll first try with the MDT metal magazine without the binder plate and see if that works for me. I asked MDT and they always include a disclaimer saying that you might need to grind off part of the feed ramp so the bullet tips don't snag.
 
I wasn't sure where to put this...because it's Tikka T3, Gunsmithing, Reloading... everything all in one. I almost put it in Vintage because I hang out there more than in Bolt Action. But as it's based on a Tikka... here is as good a spot as any.

This project started more than three years ago and I started to document it on the Scout Hide. It was the conversion of a Tikka T3 in .223 to a .14/221 Eichelberger. In the reloading/wildcat world, this is called a Subcaliber.

It fascinates me because I always loved the .17's. But somehow going even smaller... with rounds pushed up into the 4,000 - 4500 FPS range seemed even more interesting. So I started the project

Started with a Sako 85. And that rifle proved un-practical for the conversion. So looked at a Tikka T3, which looked like a much better candidate.

I waited a year for a barrel from PacNor in .14 Caliber. And sent to Extreme Accuracy LLC for the barreling. I had to buy my own chamber reamer(s) as well. From ordering the barrel until getting the barreled action was about 18 months. Worth the wait, by the way! Beautiful! Extreme Accuracy fitted the barrel for me and left it threaded so I could install a brake, custom made. The .14 needs a brake about as much as a kitten needs a Lear Jet. But I want one anyway.

I went to Massoud here on the 'Hide and got one of his Whisky 3 stocks. I had worked with Massoud on the early iterations of his Sako TRG stock and I don't think there is any chassis maker on the market that makes a better line of products than Kinetic Research Group. He helped me out with a gorgeous stock... and I had my chassis.

Scope is U.S. Optics. I'm a USO snob. I won't apologize. Doc Mullins, one of the guys we lost in the transition to Scout, was probably one of the greatest contributors to the original SH. Doc76251... if you are out there, you are remembered. He got me drinking the USO Kool-Aid and I have not stopped. Among Tier-one optics, there are a lot of good ones and I would be happy, I am sure, with many of them. But I love the guys at USO. Even the new Regime. And there is nothing else that would do for this rifle.

For a mount, I went with another great 'Hide contributor and got a Sphur mount. Overkill for this project, but I have never had anything but greatest reverance for the guys that created the Sphur mount and for their contributions here. Again, supporting the SH community.

Last, Atlas bipod. Another long-time 'Hide contributer who makes one of the best products out there.

Bolted all together, I finally had a pretty cool rifle.

With one problem. It had feeding problems and would not eject worth a damn. Because the .14 case is so short and tiny... it tended to not want to eject and getting it to feed was, well, impossible.

The KRG chassis works with AI magazines, however. Which were a problem and an opportunity. The problem is that the follower, while perfect for a .223... wanted nothing to do with a .14 Eichelberger. But with some aluminum and a milling machine today, I designed and fitted my own follower. And the rifle now feeds perfectly. The ejection problem also took care of itself with better bolt handling. A good sharp snap to the rear ejects every case perfectly.

Of course, that did not begin to solve the ammo problem! Because when I ordered this, you could not get .14 Eichelberger cases... made from .221 Fireball brass. Today, you can buy them. Two years ago... you had to make your own forming plate. So I did. Used letter-size step drills and my chamber reamer to create a forming plate. And made some rounds. Now I can buy them. I should have waited. But the rounds still will need final fire-forming as the shoulders/necks are a bit on the rough side. But that's standard wildcat practice. And I'll just shoot the first 250 rounds off knowing that I am forming cases, not chasing extreme accuracy.

Today, for the first time, I fired 5 test rounds. And it did not give any issues. So I am now reloading 250 rounds for it. With a 13grain spitzer .14 cal bullet. And 17 grains of 2520. I think it will take more, but until I get all my cases fire-formed, I am going with a light load. There is absolutely zero recoil. Nothing I can feel. 15 pound rifle firing a 13 grain bullet? Well, that soaks things up pretty well. The first 5 rounds all went where I expected them to go. But I was shooting 'minute of pebble' at a rock 80 yards across my farm. Not into a target.

Next steps are fireforming cases and then working up a real accuracy load.

Ok... since this is probably, technically, a pictures thread... here goes. Though I am going to post and then use edit to put up the pictures... I've typed too much here to have a computer freeze and loose all the input.

Pictures below.

20431459_1212551962224782_3009173460972188077_n.jpg

Here is the almost-unrecognizable T3 in all her glory. I forgot to mention the tacticool bolt knob. It's snazzy. Ultimately, I will paint the whole thing to match my Sako duty rifle. Now retired... like me.

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The aluminum mag follower that I machined today to feed the .14 rounds. They have to be forward-positioned in the mag to work. A shorter magazine with a spacer would be an ideal solution. But if the rounds are stacked and kept with the tips near the front of the mag, they feed perfectly. Note the sharp upward angle of the follower and the .375" radius trough in the top of it. Made the rounds feed like butter... and also works great in single-shot mode, rolling in rounds one-at-a-time.

20429790_1212552028891442_4111221679374123994_n.jpg


So what is this Eichelberger, you may ask? Here is the 'spec. I used a load for a .14/221 Walker which has a 5 degree different shoulder angle. As I had a lot of 2520 powder on hand. Seems to have worked great. I should be pushing a .13 grain bullet at about 4100 FPS with the load I am using. One of the challenges, BTW, is getting the powder in that little case. So I made myself a brass funnel this afternoon. Bit of lathe work.

20431500_1212552245558087_4383913579508368682_n.jpg

Used a chunk of .750" Brass hex stock to make a funnel. It's very cute. Making funnels on a lathe is a bitch. Too many angles. Kept the hex so it did not roll off the reloading bench on me. BTW, this is the first project in my new reloading room, for those who have followed the thread in Reloading.

20374273_1212552328891412_791018607753408938_n.jpg

60 cute little cases. Note the tiny hole in the top. These things are pixie-sized.

20374667_1212552118891433_6081276212635223852_n.jpg

Pixie sized indeed. On the right is a .223. On the left is a .14/221 Eichelberger, before fire-forming. Overall case length 1.710.

20479724_1212552155558096_1082594876376402053_n.jpg

And because comparisons are fun... here is a 13 grain .14 cal bullet next to a .30 Speer HPBT Match.

I'll get some more pictures posted, I am sure, once I get some testing done. And once I get the rifle painted.

Oh and what does one do with a .14 Eichelberger? It will positively vaporize a squirrel. Furbearers get very tiny holes in them. And egg shoots at 100 yards can be rather spectacular. Energy is mass times velocity squared. These little zippers move along at speeds that are adding energy in a massive fashion.

And besides, it was one of the most fun gunsmithing projects I have undertaken. And involved a lot of great SH people.

Cheers,

Sirhr

Finally got the .14 out to the range.

Considering the brass is not fire-formed yet, this is not bad. This is after about 20 fouling shots. Four shots. 90 yards. Dead calm. 40 degrees. Prone with sock bag and Atlas bipod..

Happy!

23376389_1283741288439182_9004702146695668449_n.jpg


Cheers,

Sirhr
 
Finally got the .14 out to the range.

Considering the brass is not fire-formed yet, this is not bad. This is after about 20 fouling shots. Four shots. 90 yards. Dead calm. 40 degrees. Prone with sock bag and Atlas bipod..

Happy!

23376389_1283741288439182_9004702146695668449_n.jpg


Cheers,

Sirhr

Congrats on the finishing of your project!!! I've often thought of doing a 14 and chickened out.

My 17-6.5G AI project has been on hold for years now. I was eyeballing a Panda drop port benchrest action for that project.
 
Last friday I tested my CTR .308 with some hunting ammo. Stock is a multi purpose from PSE, scope is a Kahles CBX 3-12x56. This rifle is frickin awesome.
Edit: Forgot to add: Shot with a Ase Utra SL7i silencer attached, after five rounds there is some annoying mirage at this indoor range over the rifle.

The cold bore shot was in the center of the white sticker, 178grs ELD-X with 43,5grs Lovex 73.06
Then I shot Sellier & Bellot 180grs HPC factory ammo, half MOA left and down.
Then S&B 180grs SP roundhead, half MOA down.
Then I shot five rounds match ammo for my Walküre, 170 grs Lapua Lockbase with 43,5grs Lovex 73,06 fireformed and neck sized for the Walküre
I got this.
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I use the Accurate mags without the binder plate and I have a few issues. The rounds don't get stuck under the feed ramp, but the follower will bind up from time to time. But it's still worth running the mags in my opinion. When it happens I normally have to slap the mag or reach down and push on the round. It doesn't happen very often.

I'm still trying to get the ARC mags to work, the follower on those get bound up all the time so I don't trust them enough to use in a match yet.

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wait wait uhh... Do these problems occur with all calibers? All i plan to do is run a T3 6.5CM in an MPA chassis with regular Accurate Mags (assuming with binder plate?), do i need to worry about jams/rounds not loading into the chamber??
 
wait wait uhh... Do these problems occur with all calibers? All i plan to do is run a T3 6.5CM in an MPA chassis with regular Accurate Mags (assuming with binder plate?), do i need to worry about jams/rounds not loading into the chamber??
I run a CTR 6.5CM. I will try to get a picture of when it happens next. But I also run my rounds out really really long so it could be the a mixture of the follower and bullet tips dragging along not allowing the cartridges to pop up.

The ARC mags, I'm having a really hard time getting to run. But with accurate mags, you have 2 options, extended length (without binder plate) and normal length (with binder plate). I didn't have any binding issues when I ran the normal length mags so I may switch back to those, I'm not sure yet.

I wouldn't stress to much about it. You will always have to do some tinkering to get everything running 100% no matter what the platform. Best thing to do is go out and run it to find all the bugs.

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I run a CTR 6.5CM. I will try to get a picture of when it happens next. But I also run my rounds out really really long so it could be the a mixture of the follower and bullet tips dragging along not allowing the cartridges to pop up.

The ARC mags, I'm having a really hard time getting to run. But with accurate mags, you have 2 options, extended length (without binder plate) and normal length (with binder plate). I didn't have any binding issues when I ran the normal length mags so I may switch back to those, I'm not sure yet.

I wouldn't stress to much about it. You will always have to do some tinkering to get everything running 100% no matter what the platform. Best thing to do is go out and run it to find all the bugs.

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Fair enough, I think i got the normal mags. Idk. Bought em through XLR with my chassis.

I went to my LGS today to check out a 6.5CM 24 inch T3 CTR they had, and it looked amazing save for a small (BARELY noticeable) offset in the stock. As in, the barrel seemed to be favoring the left side of the stock just a touch. Is this to be expected from the T3x stock? Is it even the stock's fault, or is it possible the actual barrelled action is slightly off?
I plan to ditch the stock anyways so I'm mostly wondering if this is reason for me to look elsewhere for the rifle rather than buying that specific one.
 
Fair enough, I think i got the normal mags. Idk. Bought em through XLR with my chassis.

I went to my LGS today to check out a 6.5CM 24 inch T3 CTR they had, and it looked amazing save for a small (BARELY noticeable) offset in the stock. As in, the barrel seemed to be favoring the left side of the stock just a touch. Is this to be expected from the T3x stock? Is it even the stock's fault, or is it possible the actual barrelled action is slightly off?
I plan to ditch the stock anyways so I'm mostly wondering if this is reason for me to look elsewhere for the rifle rather than buying that specific one.
It's most likely going to be a stock/barrel channel inlet issue. I wouldn't worry about it since most of us ditch the stock anyway. I only used the CTR stock once before I put my McMillan on it. If you were going to use it, I'd hit it with 220 grit sandpaper and take down that one side a bit then polish it with some wet 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper.

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I have various Tikka's with factory mags, AICS type mags and CTR mags and in my opinion the CTR's are by far the best mags, double stack with less height, longer COAL and nice finish. Now that their price was reduced to $72 If I were looking now for a new stock for a Tikka I would go without any doubt with one inletted for the CTR DBM.
 
I have various Tikka's with factory mags, AICS type mags and CTR mags and in my opinion the CTR's are by far the best mags, double stack with less height, longer COAL and nice finish. Now that their price was reduced to $72 If I were looking now for a new stock for a Tikka I would go without any doubt with one inletted for the CTR DBM.

I completely agree. My only regret on going with my manners stock was not getting it inletted for the factory mags
 
I completely agree. My only regret on going with my manners stock was not getting it inletted for the factory mags

Couldn’t agree more. Fit and feed from the TRG magazines is vastly superior to AI. In fact that is what led us to design our long action DBM that uses the TRG42 magazine — essentially a long action CTR Bottom Metal system.
 

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So I am thinking about moving my Tac A1 into a traditional type stock (McMillan A5). I want to continue to use the CTR magazines. Does anyone know of a good quality bottom metal that uses a CTR foot print and takes the CTR mags? Can I just get and use a factory Tikka bottom metal? The McMillan has the inlet for the CTR factory bottom metal, so I would need something that matches up.
any help would be great. Has anyone done this swap?
 
So I am thinking about moving my Tac A1 into a traditional type stock (McMillan A5). I want to continue to use the CTR magazines. Does anyone know of a good quality bottom metal that uses a CTR foot print and takes the CTR mags? Can I just get and use a factory Tikka bottom metal? The McMillan has the inlet for the CTR factory bottom metal, so I would need something that matches up.
any help would be great. Has anyone done this swap?

I've got a ctr bottom metal I'd let go of if you decide to do it. I'm using the McRees with the trg mag inlet. Let me know if you're interested in working something out.
 
So I am thinking about moving my Tac A1 into a traditional type stock (McMillan A5). I want to continue to use the CTR magazines. Does anyone know of a good quality bottom metal that uses a CTR foot print and takes the CTR mags? Can I just get and use a factory Tikka bottom metal? The McMillan has the inlet for the CTR factory bottom metal, so I would need something that matches up.
any help would be great. Has anyone done this swap?
I use mountain tactical bottom metal and it works really well, and with the new ARC mags they are just as short as the CTR mags. But that bottom metal is designed for the AICS mags, I'm not sure of any after market bottom metal designed for the CTR mags..

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I use mountain tactical bottom metal and it works really well, and with the new ARC mags they are just as short as the CTR mags. But that bottom metal is designed for the AICS mags, I'm not sure of any after market bottom metal designed for the CTR mags..

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Are those bottom metals the same foot print as the CTR? Any issues with the ARC magazines feeding like I have heard can happen with the AICS? I love how smooth and flawless the factory mags have been working for me and would hate to get into another style that isn’t as reliable.
 
Are those bottom metals the same foot print as the CTR? Any issues with the ARC magazines feeding like I have heard can happen with the AICS? I love how smooth and flawless the factory mags have been working for me and would hate to get into another style that isn�t as reliable.
Exact same footprint as the factory CTR bottom metal. When I was running the accurate mags with the binder plate I didn't have any issues at all. The ARC mags are having issues, but that's with the follower getting hung up. They are currently working on a fix for the follower, but some other people are making they're own. Or you can take the spring and follower out of a AICS 5 round mag and that seems to also be the fix. But with all the offerings from accurate, alpha mags, AICS and modifying the Magpul mags, ARC mags aren't a must.

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So I am thinking about moving my Tac A1 into a traditional type stock (McMillan A5). I want to continue to use the CTR magazines. Does anyone know of a good quality bottom metal that uses a CTR foot print and takes the CTR mags? Can I just get and use a factory Tikka bottom metal? The McMillan has the inlet for the CTR factory bottom metal, so I would need something that matches up.
any help would be great. Has anyone done this swap?

If you make the change, would you be selling your A1 chassis? Just curious as I have a stainless CTR that I've been debating putting in to a chassis.
 
I use the Accurate mags without the binder plate and I have a few issues. The rounds don't get stuck under the feed ramp, but the follower will bind up from time to time. But it's still worth running the mags in my opinion. When it happens I normally have to slap the mag or reach down and push on the round. It doesn't happen very often.

I'm still trying to get the ARC mags to work, the follower on those get bound up all the time so I don't trust them enough to use in a match yet.

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I got my MDT magazine in today (without the binder plate). The rounds will get stuck under the feed ramp, but they don't get stuck on the way into the chamber. They get stuck when the round is moving up into feeding position. It looks like the follower is tilting and the bullet is nosing down. It can be fixed by reaching in and pulling the case back as long as the bullet isn't seated too far out.
 
I got my MDT magazine in today (without the binder plate). The rounds will get stuck under the feed ramp, but they don't get stuck on the way into the chamber. They get stuck when the round is moving up into feeding position. It looks like the follower is tilting and the bullet is nosing down. It can be fixed by reaching in and pulling the case back as long as the bullet isn't seated too far out.
I will typically slap the mag against my thigh or my hand to seat the cartridges as far back as possible before I insert it into the rifle. Similar to a AR15 mag, and it seems to help remedy the problem.

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I completely agree. My only regret on going with my manners stock was not getting it inletted for the factory mags

I went with the German Gun Stock and am using the factory CTR bottom metal. Very easy to load, feed very smooth, and I paid $60 and $70 for the two spares. I can load to 2.94" and they feed great.
 
Anyone tried one of the Target/Competition stocks from Bell & Carlson? Just curious how you liked it. I’m looking to upgrade my CTR stock but would really like to stick with the factory CTR Magazines.

https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1129

No I haven't tried the Tikka T3 CTR B&C stock but it does look rather good. Another option is the GRS Berserk. Eurooptics is now listing one cut for the T3 CTR. Just at 3 lbs.

https://www.eurooptic.com/GRS-Berserk-Tikka-CTR-Black-Stock-104013.aspx
 
Anyone tried one of the Target/Competition stocks from Bell & Carlson? Just curious how you liked it. I�m looking to upgrade my CTR stock but would really like to stick with the factory CTR Magazines.

[video]https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1129[/video]
No I haven't tried the Tikka T3 CTR B&C stock but it does look rather good. Another option is the GRS Berserk. Eurooptics is now listing one cut for the T3 CTR. Just at 3 lbs.

[video]https://www.eurooptic.com/GRS-Berserk-Tikka-CTR-Black-Stock-104013.aspx[/video]
After handling a GRS stock, I think I'd go for the B&C stock. The GRS is extremely comfortable and ergonomic, however it really only lends itself to right handed shooters. If you had to shoot support side it would be extremely awkward and uncomfortable. And the GRS has alot of flex and would take some stiffening. However, they are both awesome stocks and it would really be best to try them both out and see which would suite your needs best.

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Anyone tried one of the Target/Competition stocks from Bell & Carlson? Just curious how you liked it. I�m looking to upgrade my CTR stock but would really like to stick with the factory CTR Magazines.

[video]https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1129[/video]
I was tempted to buy one but at the end I got a Manners T6A from EuroOptic. The only problem I saw is that according to Bell & Carlson website the stock is made for the "older" T3 CTR and that the ejection port needs to be fixed for the new T3X CTR. I tried to find the ejection port measure differences between the T3 and T3X but never got anything.
 
I was tempted to buy one but at the end I got a Manners T6A from EuroOptic. The only problem I saw is that according to Bell & Carlson website the stock is made for the "older" T3 CTR and that the ejection port needs to be fixed for the new T3X CTR. I tried to find the ejection port measure differences between the T3 and T3X but never got anything.

I seen that as well and it makes me a bit apprehensive. Rather not buy a $400 Stock that I will need to whittle on to make it fit.
 
After handling a GRS stock, I think I'd go for the B&C stock. The GRS is extremely comfortable and ergonomic, however it really only lends itself to right handed shooters. If you had to shoot support side it would be extremely awkward and uncomfortable. And the GRS has alot of flex and would take some stiffening. However, they are both awesome stocks and it would really be best to try them both out and see which would suite your needs best.

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Totally agree on the GRS stock.
 
Are low velocities common with tikka ctr factory barrels? I haven't put a chrony on yet, just did some load work on 6.5 creed 20". Settled on 42.6 h4350 140 Amax (have a ton of them so still using). From 100 yd zero it was approx 0.7 mil up at 200. Plate needs fresh paint and had some 308 hits prior to shooting the 6.5, so 0.7 could be a hair off. Seems SLOW.
 
Are low velocities common with tikka ctr factory barrels? I haven't put a chrony on yet, just did some load work on 6.5 creed 20". Settled on 42.6 h4350 140 Amax (have a ton of them so still using). From 100 yd zero it was approx 0.7 mil up at 200. Plate needs fresh paint and had some 308 hits prior to shooting the 6.5, so 0.7 could be a hair off. Seems SLOW.
My 6.5 CM Tikka CTR 24" shoots around 100 fps slower than my 6.5 CM Tikka with a PVA 24" prefit barrel with a nut. With the same load (42.5 gr IMR 4451) I get 2690 fps factory CTR vs 2789 fps PVA prefit barrel.
 
Are low velocities common with tikka ctr factory barrels? I haven't put a chrony on yet, just did some load work on 6.5 creed 20". Settled on 42.6 h4350 140 Amax (have a ton of them so still using). From 100 yd zero it was approx 0.7 mil up at 200. Plate needs fresh paint and had some 308 hits prior to shooting the 6.5, so 0.7 could be a hair off. Seems SLOW.
That sounds slower than normal, even for a 20" barrel, though not terribly. How many rounds through it so far? It should speed up a little after 100-200 rounds.

Even so, my experience isn't too much different with H4350 in my Tikka TSR-1 with 20" barrel. 142g SMK FGMM in my 26" Rock Creek runs about 2750. In the 20", it's only at 2575 for a 0.6 hold at 200 yards. My other loads using 136 Scenar Ls and H4350 is 200 fps slower than the same load in my 26".

Reading into the subject, I believe that a somewhat faster powder will perform better in the shorter barrel. I notice powder blowing out the muzzle brake using my heavier H4350 loads in the shorter barrel.

I've read some good things about Power Pro 2000MR behind heavies in short barrels and loaded some pressure loads this week to try out once all the family leaves in a week.
 
Are low velocities common with tikka ctr factory barrels? I haven't put a chrony on yet, just did some load work on 6.5 creed 20". Settled on 42.6 h4350 140 Amax (have a ton of them so still using). From 100 yd zero it was approx 0.7 mil up at 200. Plate needs fresh paint and had some 308 hits prior to shooting the 6.5, so 0.7 could be a hair off. Seems SLOW.

That's sounds about right... My 20" with a can is running 2605fps and 2580 without, using the 140's. I'm 0.6 mil for 200 yards.
 
That sounds slower than normal, even for a 20" barrel, though not terribly. How many rounds through it so far? It should speed up a little after 100-200 rounds.

Even so, my experience isn't too much different with H4350 in my Tikka TSR-1 with 20" barrel. 142g SMK FGMM in my 26" Rock Creek runs about 2750. In the 20", it's only at 2575 for a 0.6 hold at 200 yards. My other loads using 136 Scenar Ls and H4350 is 200 fps slower than the same load in my 26".

Reading into the subject, I believe that a somewhat faster powder will perform better in the shorter barrel. I notice powder blowing out the muzzle brake using my heavier H4350 loads in the shorter barrel.

I've read some good things about Power Pro 2000MR behind heavies in short barrels and loaded some pressure loads this week to try out once all the family leaves in a week.

Bought used with a claimed rd count of 30 and have put 80 through it since buying. For a general knocking around rifle I probably don’t need the velocity, but would still like to see more.
 
Anyone tried one of the Target/Competition stocks from Bell & Carlson? Just curious how you liked it. I’m looking to upgrade my CTR stock but would really like to stick with the factory CTR Magazines.

https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1129

Ran across your post and thought I would sign up.
I put one on my T3x CTR 24" and it fit great,no cutting or grinding.
Hard to tell from the pics but the bottom edge of the port runs flush with the stock so there was nothing to remove.
I've ran about 150 rounds through the gun with no ejection problems at all.
Plenty of bolt clearance at the comb.
 

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Ran across your post and thought I would sign up.
I put one on my T3x CTR 24" and it fit great,no cutting or grinding.
Hard to tell from the pics but the bottom edge of the port runs flush with the stock so there was nothing to remove.
I've ran about 150 rounds through the gun with no ejection problems at all.
Plenty of bolt clearance at the comb.

Looks awesome! Welcome to the thread!
 
You won't be disappointed. My buddy got his zero'd in a few shots then shot 5 rounds of Hornady American gunner 140's into a solid 1/2 moa hole. This is his first 6.5CM and Tikka... He said he is selling his 308's
 
The Tac A1 chassis (if you can find one used, I'm not sure who makes them) or I think Mcree's makes one as well, but I'm not 100%.

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