I can't get enough tikka.... but I also love my one and only Remington 700 in 300WM.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
If you are ever in utah I will be happy to take you to my spot.Can I come shoot with you?! Jealous of the scenery...
Ran across your post and thought I would sign up.
I put one on my T3x CTR 24" and it fit great,no cutting or grinding.
Hard to tell from the pics but the bottom edge of the port runs flush with the stock so there was nothing to remove.
I've ran about 150 rounds through the gun with no ejection problems at all.
Plenty of bolt clearance at the comb.
If you are ever in utah I will be happy to take you to my spot.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Any know where to find the best deal on factory CTR mags? Am I correct that 5 rd mags are the same dimensions as 10 rd mags? Thanks.
What bolt is that in your rifle?
So I am thinking about moving my Tac A1 into a traditional type stock (McMillan A5). I want to continue to use the CTR magazines. Does anyone know of a good quality bottom metal that uses a CTR foot print and takes the CTR mags? Can I just get and use a factory Tikka bottom metal? The McMillan has the inlet for the CTR factory bottom metal, so I would need something that matches up.
any help would be great. Has anyone done this swap?
Anyone happen to know of any chassis options that allow the use of the factory CTR mags?
Like Tevan said Mcree makes one. One came on my Tikka T3 TSR-1 and I am very impressed.
Just put my T3X CTR 6.5CM in this new stock. I'm very happy with the way it's turned out. Atlas bottom, titanium lug, QD attachments, Harris, Vortex scope with Vortex precision rings, 20MOA rail, MAE suppressor and AICS mag. Going to get her out hopefully in the next few days.
You make a very valid point, but for a while there the CTR and TRG mags were very hard to come by so we all jumped to the AICS mags which alot of us already had quite a few laying around. I guess thats what is great about rifles, everyone can have them they're own way.I don't get it. Every day I read about AIAW 10 round mags that are iffy feed wise in 2 lug actions. ARC 10 round mags that jam, or not if only you shave off the tabs on the follower? Alpha 10 round mags that take months to get, and then don't run at all.
And the express purpose of all this magazine roulette is to get 10 round mags that are shorter then plain old AICS or Accurate Mag 10 rounders @ 4.66" in height that seems to run as good as anything, except maybe the AICS and Accurate Mag 5 rounders..
Yet, little Tikka and Sako can make CTR and TRG 22 10 round mags that are only 3.20" tall and run shells thru them like greased ball bearings. Yes, the Sako TRG's costs $3K and the mags run north of $200 each. Tikka CTR mags are cheaper at around $72 greenbacks. Yet the first thing everybody wants to do here when they buy a CTR is chuck or sell the stock, bottom metal, and magazine to buy into a chassis or stock that uses tall 10 round magazines or short ones that may or may not work.
And 99.9% of the CTR's in their OEM stocks shoot bughole groups right out of the box, yet that's the first thing most want to swap out just so they can use AICS pattern mags that don't work as well as the ones the T3 CTR came with.......It must be a disease or something in the water or ?????
Anybody shoot the 130 bergers in the new federal fgmm?
You make a very valid point, but for a while there the CTR and TRG mags were very hard to come by so we all jumped to the AICS mags which alot of us already had quite a few laying around. I guess thats what is great about rifles, everyone can have them they're own way.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Hit ~4000 rounds in 11 mouths this year on the tikka T3X 223rem Varmint and it’s still shooting well. These were 5 shot groups at 100 yards playing with four different seating depths using 55gr Vmax, 25.5gr varget @ 3150fps. Found some throat erosion but doesn’t seem to be effecting groups. Still connecting Well at 1000 yards using the 75gr eld but groups like shit at 100 yards. Love my Tikka!!!!!!
What stock are you running?
It's a Southfort Lab Signature Series. Made here in New Zealand https://www.southfortlabs.co.nz/best...gnature-series
Nice work with the Vmax's - I easily get sub moa with my tikka running 50g Vmax's. Unfortunately the 75gr ELD-M's print 1 -2 inches with some very reliable flyers in a group of 5. I seem to remember Bryan Litz essentially busting the myth of bullets settling down or gong to 'sleep' at longer rangers. I recall that he offered a cash prise for any shooter who could prove the theory - none were able to claim it. If the gun won't group at 100m there's no reason to think that things improve at distance.
Awesome, weights 1.3lbs! Would you mind telling me what that set you back in NZ$ - I'm based in Oz but have family in NZ. Cheers, BP
I have a question on the Tac A1 vs the CTR...What are the differences besides the Stock vs. Chassis? Also, is the Tac A1 any more accurate on average than a CTR? A Tac A1 is out of my price range for my first go around. If you put a CTR into a quality Chassis, would you end up with same results or no?
Anyone know where the best place to pick up a 24" CTR in 6.5 CM is? Seems all the low prices are out of stock and only $998+ are in stock.
You Tikka guys saved me from attempting to fix a Remington. I was looking around for a while and went back and forth; for a "Basic" build, it would take well into $1000 range to fix an already $500+ barreled action Remington 700 (Truing, barrel, stock, trigger, etc.). Or there was fully custom, where you could pay that much just for the receiver/action and end up spending $4000 for your rifle. Well it looks like the Tikka CTR may be a save for me as I can get pretty close to a custom accuracy (Sub MOA or sub half MOA) for under $1000 for the gun. Could you upgrade certain parts? Sure. But unlike a 700, it isn't nearly as necessary.
I was looking at this myself. The main difference I found was that the TAC A1 has a 2-stage trigger. The action and barrel are otherwise equivalent to the CTR. Other difference is obviously the stock/chassis.
Back when they had 15% off, I bought my CTR from Whittaker. 24" Stainless for $789.98 after shipping. Currently same rifle is $929.99 - [video]https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/ss-24843[/video]. I was going to go with the KRG Bravo chassis but I backed off that after reading of issues with magazines. In our family we have 4 magazines and 2 CTRs so I think I'll just stick with factory.
What issues have you heard with the Bravo chassis and magazines? I bought a couple of 6.5CM Tikka's CTR from Whittakerguns at the same price as yours some time ago. One of them is on X-Ray chassis since the very first day, it has around 1000 rounds without any issues with magazines.
I have a Tikka T3 varmint in .223 and love the action and it’s super accurate. I’m looking for a long range rifle in 6.5 creedmoor, I’m looking at the Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 and the Ruger Precision in 6.5, I want something super accurate out of the box, not too worried about chassis for now....
That’s what I was hoping to hear! I’m actually looking at the KRG x-ray, im sure it will be a while before I kill the barrel in the tikka, I know a good smith to change it when the time comes. What factory ammo does yours like best? Looking for a starting point, I’m gonna try hornady 140 eld and 143 eldx
Tikka action doesn't need to be blue printed. Any gunsmith here at the Hide can do a rebarreling job on it. I would suggest Josh at PVA or Chad at LRI.Any recommendations where to send a Tac A1 to get a new barrel? I�m pushing 3000 rounds and have jumped from 1/2� or so to 1� groups. It seems like there aren�t many smiths in So-Cal that do work on Tikkas. Is it worth getting the action blue printed at the same time? Thanks for any input.
Finally got around to taking some decent pics. Figured I should contribute and keep us ahead of the RPR thread...
Thus far I've only done a few things to improve the performance of the factory configuration. No complaints while I save up for a chassis.
-Added the adjustable cheek riser
-Shaved some material out of the barrel channel so it it now fully free floating. (This actually did shrink my groups a bit)
-Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail
-Seekins High Rings (I thought these would be too high but they ended up perfect with the Vortex defender caps)
-SAS TOMB brake and Suppressor
-DMR2-i optic
-Im considering a Sterk (or similar) swept handle but I'd like to try one first. Im acually pretty happy with the factory bolt handle and knob.
Has anyone ever broke their bolt stop pin and tried an aftermarket fix ?
Yes and yes. You can find a pin of the same diameter at any hardware store. More difficult to find is the spring that goes under the bolt stop but is doable too.Has anyone ever broke their bolt stop pin and tried an aftermarket fix ?
For the people who have the Tikka CTR, did you see an improvement when you swapped the stock/chassis from what is was originally? Or is it more for the features on the new stock/chassis? Why did you change out the stock?