Tikka T3 Thread

Toney if you are going for a 7 Mag then just be sure to get a Tikka with a mag bolt face. Or you can just have a non-magnum bolt face opended up but thats more work than if you just found a good deal on a 300 WM or 7 Mag.

Also you can simply have your Tikka T3 Lite barrel threaded 1/2X28 and then bushing up from there to whatever you want. I have had 3 tikka lites threaded this way and bushing up to 5/8X24 so it'll work with a suppressor.

wrDWHFi.jpg


You can see the bushing under the thread protector there. Disregard the poor mans full arca rail that extends like a spigot. ;)
 
Toney if you are going for a 7 Mag then just be sure to get a Tikka with a mag bolt face. Or you can just have a non-magnum bolt face opended up but thats more work than if you just found a good deal on a 300 WM or 7 Mag.

Also you can simply have your Tikka T3 Lite barrel threaded 1/2X28 and then bushing up from there to whatever you want. I have had 3 tikka lites threaded this way and bushing up to 5/8X24 so it'll work with a suppressor.

wrDWHFi.jpg


You can see the bushing under the thread protector there. Disregard the poor mans full arca rail that extends like a spigot. ;)
Well this seems like the way to start! I wasent sure how strong that would be with a magnum round.

Thank you
 
J
Well this seems like the way to start! I wasent sure how strong that would be with a magnum round.

Thank you
Just thread it 9/16-24. Thunderbeast makes brakes and cans in that thread.

From their page https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications
"1/2-28 threads are too small for .30 caliber. There is not enough metal between the bore grooves and the thread root diameter.
For 6.5mm (0.264") up to .30 caliber, we recommend a minimum of 9/16-24 threads.
If your barrel does not support the minimum dimension "D" in the diagram, we have a "FACE MOUNT" brake that "may" work for your rifle. Please call for details.


Edited to get link to work.
 
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NOOB question. I have a TAC A1 but it is not a practical hunting rifle. I want a Tikka in a 7mm rem mag, but none of them have enough barrel to thread. What would be the best parts rifle to buy to build off of? I know I would need a new barrel and would replace the stock, but I am at a loss of where to even start.

Thanks

Lots of ways to skin this cat, here's just one:

Step 1) Buy one of these https://www.eurooptic.com/JRTXG370-Tikka-Tikka-T3x-Laminated-7mm-Rem-Mag-S-S-243--barr.aspx

Step 2) Call these guys: https://www.longriflesinc.com/index.html

Tell them what you want: like a new 7mm barrel threaded for brake or suppressor, and to open up the stock for the new barrel if you want to keep it, as there nothing wrong with the Tikka factory Laminated stock for a Hunting Rifle. OR If you want it restocked with a Manners or McMillan talk to them about your options, and they may have what you need in stock. The LRI guys are quite good and fast.
 
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NOOB question. I have a TAC A1 but it is not a practical hunting rifle. I want a Tikka in a 7mm rem mag, but none of them have enough barrel to thread. What would be the best parts rifle to buy to build off of? I know I would need a new barrel and would replace the stock, but I am at a loss of where to even start.

Thanks

How is this not enough barrel to thread?

http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-varmint
 
How is this not enough barrel to thread?

http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x/t3x-varmint
You are looking at the wrong tikka website for the US.
http://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles
The en-us matters. The varmint is only available in 223 and 22-250 in the us.

The only available 7 rem mags on the US site are superlite, superlite camo, lite, lite stainless, laminated stainless, forest, and hunter stainless.

Doing a quick search for t3x lite muzzle diameter shows someone saying it's .631 which is .032 smaller than what thunderbeast recommends for 9/16-24 (.662 minimum).
The 5/8-24 recommendation is .725 (.094 difference.

Maybe @TBACRAY can chime in and enlighten us if there is enough meat there for a 9/16 thread.
 
M14x1 seems ideal for the Tikka Lite barrel. I would get a 7rm cut to that thread. Plenty aftermarket bits available for that thread.
As regards to the Sauer 100/101 (and the Mauser versions thereof) these are throw away rifles that can't or only with great difficulty be re-barrelled. Junk in my opinion and the manufacturer should be ashamed of them. Lowest level of rifle building.
Tikka is a quality rifle.
edi
 
You are looking at the wrong tikka website for the US.
http://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles
The en-us matters. The varmint is only available in 223 and 22-250 in the us.

The only available 7 rem mags on the US site are superlite, superlite camo, lite, lite stainless, laminated stainless, forest, and hunter stainless.

Doing a quick search for t3x lite muzzle diameter shows someone saying it's .631 which is .032 smaller than what thunderbeast recommends for 9/16-24 (.662 minimum).
The 5/8-24 recommendation is .725 (.094 difference.

Maybe @TBACRAY can chime in and enlighten us if there is enough meat there for a 9/16 thread.

A friend of mine threaded his T3X Lite 300WSM 1/2-28 at the factory muzzle. Shoots awesome. I'd think a 7mm would be fine. 1/2-28 threads are definitely not the most ideal for that bore diameter, but for a hunting gun it will work. Kimber factory rifles come with even smaller threads.
 
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Anyone had any luck using a Mountain Tactical DBM in a Manner's stock inletted for Factory CTR DBM without modifications?
Great question, I'd love to know as well!

Although not a Manners, I run Mountain Tactical bottom metal on 2 of my McMillan A5's without much trouble at all. The only thing I had to do was polish down the mag catch a little since it was letting the mags seat to deeply and coming into contact with the bottom of the action.
 
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Although not a Manners, I run Mountain Tactical bottom metal on 2 of my McMillan A5's without much trouble at all. The only thing I had to do was polish down the mag catch a little since it was letting the mags seat to deeply and coming into contact with the bottom of the action.

Good to know, I may give it a try I don't really feel like sending off my stock to get inletted even though it is free with DBI.
 
Anyone had any luck using a Mountain Tactical DBM in a Manner's stock inletted for Factory CTR DBM without modifications?

In the description on mountain tacticals page. https://tikkaperformance.com/index....tactical-company/tikka-t3-bottom-metal&page=2

"No gunsmithing is necessary for installing and it is compatible with all models of Tikka T3 EXCEPT the latest generation of CTR which uses the TRG22 magazine system."

From the questions at the bottom of the page in response to Bryan peed

"The Tikka T3/T3x Performance Series OEM factory replacement bottom metal is designed to fit all T3/T3x rifles regardless of caliber, but NOT the CTR. "

I take the answer as no definitely not for a ctr inlet. I believe they are made to fit in non ctr inlet.
If I were you I would call them to make sure.
 
In the description on mountain tacticals page. https://tikkaperformance.com/index....tactical-company/tikka-t3-bottom-metal&page=2

"No gunsmithing is necessary for installing and it is compatible with all models of Tikka T3 EXCEPT the latest generation of CTR which uses the TRG22 magazine system."

From the questions at the bottom of the page in response to Bryan peed

"The Tikka T3/T3x Performance Series OEM factory replacement bottom metal is designed to fit all T3/T3x rifles regardless of caliber, but NOT the CTR. "

I take the answer as no definitely not for a ctr inlet. I believe they are made to fit in non ctr inlet.
If I were you I would call them to make sure.


Wrong bottom metal, we're looking at this one. https://tikkaperformance.com/index.php?_route_=tikka-bottom-metal/tikka-aics-dbm
 
In the description on mountain tacticals page. https://tikkaperformance.com/index....tactical-company/tikka-t3-bottom-metal&page=2

"No gunsmithing is necessary for installing and it is compatible with all models of Tikka T3 EXCEPT the latest generation of CTR which uses the TRG22 magazine system."

From the questions at the bottom of the page in response to Bryan peed

"The Tikka T3/T3x Performance Series OEM factory replacement bottom metal is designed to fit all T3/T3x rifles regardless of caliber, but NOT the CTR. "

I take the answer as no definitely not for a ctr inlet.
That works. Didn't see that one. Carry on.
 
Hey guys! This prolly been covered in all these pages, if I missed it, my apologies.. I just stumbled onto a good deal on a T3X CTR in 6.5. My question is muzzle brake thread pitch. Im confused, the manual lists 2 different things, but it looks to me like 18mmx1mm? is that it? Looks like APA makes the G2 Lil Bastard in that thread size, is that the only option? or someone have adapters?

Thanks
Tim
 
Hey guys! This prolly been covered in all these pages, if I missed it, my apologies.. I just stumbled onto a good deal on a T3X CTR in 6.5. My question is muzzle brake thread pitch. Im confused, the manual lists 2 different things, but it looks to me like 18mmx1mm? is that it? Looks like APA makes the G2 Lil Bastard in that thread size, is that the only option? or someone have adapters?

Thanks
Tim

T3X CTR comes with a 5/8-24 thread.
 
Metal bolt shroud from my Tikka CTR broke today. Has this happened to anyone else?
I have seen Broken Shrouds from the T3x. Its 'alloy' NOT Aluminium/Aluminum. Big difference because Alloy is a mix of metals - could be tin, lead, zinc, ally. The T3x shrouds are diecast - not machined. I use Titanium because its the strongest material for its weight. Even machined aluminium shrouds break - ive got photos from customers. Sterk.
 
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I have seen Broken Shrouds from the T3x. Its 'alloy' NOT Aluminium/Aluminum. Big difference because Alloy is a mix of metals - could be tin, lead, zinc, ally. The T3x shrouds are diecast - not machined. I use Titanium because its the strongest material for its weight. Even machined aluminium shrouds break - ive got photos from customers. Sterk.
Looking forward to you completing this current batch and getting the shroud and swept handle slapped on.
 
I have seen Broken Shrouds from the T3x. Its 'alloy' NOT Aluminium/Aluminum. Big difference because Alloy is a mix of metals - could be tin, lead, zinc, ally. The T3x shrouds are diecast - not machined. I use Titanium because its the strongest material for its weight. Even machined aluminium shrouds break - ive got photos from customers. Sterk.

Yeah the stock T3X bolt shroud never gave me confidence as it was obviously a cast part and there were wear marks in several places with use. Didn't realize how much resistance was being induced by the shroud though: the bolt feels noticeable smoother without it on. Have also never comfortable with the bolt shroud spring they include on the alloy parts and not the polymer T3 ones.
 
@viking78 Painted Bravo? Looks good!

Are you using a CTR barreled action? Looks like it. Wondering what mags you chose to run and how they feed.

Hi.
Yes, that´s stock CTR what i use in both of my rigs.
I have Accurate mags and MDT, i think that the MDT magazines are better.
10-round magazine is also shorter than Accurate magazine is, and you don´t need to water sandgrit the magazine lips, like you need to to in the Accurate magasines.
 
d3kp9gS.jpg


Here she is in the real life.
I use Ase Utra supressors, i think they are best price value there is.
Also love the Cole-Tac supp covers, very well made and durable, if you have supressor, i recomend to take a look of they products.
Falcon optics M18+ 4-18x44 mrad ffp scope mounted with Vortex precision rings.
Harris bipod with Hawk Hill awesome feets, these are the best option feet you can buy for any bipod, superb product.
DIY spigot on the stock, works very well.
 
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Here she is in the real life.
I use Ase Utra supressors, i think they are best price value there is.
Also love the Cole-Tac supp covers, very well made and durable, if you have supressor, i recomend to take a look of they products.
Falcon optics M18+ 4-18x44 mrad ffp scope mounted with Vortex precision rings.
Harris bipod with Hawk Hill awesome feets, these are the best option feet you can buy for any bipod, superb product.
DIY spigot on the stock, works very well.

I'm also using a Cole-Tac cover and so far I love it. Time will tell but so far it really stays in place.
 
I'm curious and I may have missed a similar build, but has anybody built a T3 with a 24-26" Proof carbon barrel and put it in a KRG Bravo? I've got a 26" Proof barrel I've been wanting to use for a lightweight hunting/precision rifle and I figure it might come out to about 8 lbs give or take. I'm not entirely set on the Bravo, but it seems to be a good compromise between weight and price compared to a Manners EH1A.
 
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Frank has a nice video of TAC A1.
I would like to know, what is the barrel hi did change for his Tikka.
I run 260 in my other Tikka, and 22" barrel that gives so sweet speed, i really would love to have too.

He tells you what he swapped for at about 1:40 in the video.
Bartlein 22" left hand gain twist.
 
@terrance250 Nice gun!

And how do you like the ARC M10s? I've got a slew of nice pic rings, but these seem to be the latest and greatest.
Having owned a couple sets of ARC rings myself, I don't think I'll ever use any other rings for a bolt gun. I love that the scope rotates very little or not at all when the clamp is torqued. Makes it quick and easy to install a new scope.
 
Just ordered myself a Bugnut Bartlien switch barrel in 260 Rem 26" Medium Palma. And now I wait... Current setup is 20" and feel that I need an additional 6" (but who doesn't right?) to get velocities that will get me well past 1000 yds.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-and-howa-bugnuts.6886172/
I ordered one in 6XC. How did you order a Medium palma? According to Greg the barrels he will be using are only Savage small shank and of those there is only two contours: Varmint and Target. I went with Target which is a bit heavy for what I want but the Varmint is too thin for my purpose. I know a barrel shank can be turned down in size but he is not offering that option in the original price.
 
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