Tikka T3 Thread

@ccoker - thanks for posing the video.

One questions...the bottom of the stock looks SUPER thin on the outside of the CTR bottom metal inlet. Maybe it was just the video, but thought id get your take. Not very much meat left from how it looks.
 
here is a pic of the bottom metal
It didnt seem "crazy thin" putting it together and I trust that McMillan knows what they are doing..
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What is the difference between a Tikka T3X CTR 6.5CM and a TIKKA T3X VARMIT 6.5 CREEDMOOR? Any difference in accuracy? They physically look the same to me. Thanks.
 
What is the difference between a Tikka T3X CTR 6.5CM and a TIKKA T3X VARMIT 6.5 CREEDMOOR? Any difference in accuracy? They physically look the same to me. Thanks.
Both have the same action and probably the same barrel, the bolt on the CTR is Teflon coated, the big difference is the DBM, CTR uses different mags.
 
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What is the difference between a Tikka T3X CTR 6.5CM and a TIKKA T3X VARMIT 6.5 CREEDMOOR? Any difference in accuracy? They physically look the same to me. Thanks.

Their website doesn't list a 6.5 Creedmoor for the Varmint model. They do look similar, but there are some differences.
  • The Varmint model includes their "Beavertail" forearm, whereas the CTR does not.
  • Varmint comes with Tikka's single-stack 5 or 6 round magazine, but the CTR comes with a 10 round double-stack magazine. The magazines are NOT interchangeable between the 2 models, as different bottom metal is required for each type of mag.
  • The CTR comes with a picatinny rail on top of the receiver for scope mounting, but the Varmint does not.
  • The barrel length of the Varmint for both calibers listed on their site (.223 Rem, and .22-250) is 23 7/10", whereas the barrel lengths for the several different calibers listed for the CTR come in 20", or either 20 or 24" for the 6.5 Creedmoor.
  • Varmint barrel not threaded, CTR barrel is threaded for a muzzle device.
  • Larger bolt knob on the CTR bolt, as well as Teflon coating. Standard bolt and handle on Varmint medol.
There may be some more differences that I've missed - these are the ones that I could find.
Hope this helps.
 
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Their website doesn't list a 6.5 Creedmoor for the Varmint model. They do look similar, but there are some differences.
  • Looking at Tikka's web site I can see that the Varmint includes their "Beavertail" forearm, whereas the CTR does not.
  • Also the Varmint comes with Tikka's single-stack 5 or 6 round magazine, but the CTR comes with a 10 round double-stack magazine. The magazines are NOT interchangeable between the 2 models, as different bottom metal is required for each type of mag.
  • The CTR comes with a picatinny rail on top of the receiver for scope mounting, but the Varmint does not.
  • The barrel length of the Varmint for both calibers listed on their site (.223 Rem, and .22-250) is 23 7/10", whereas the barrel lengths for the several different calibers listed for the CTR come in either 20 or 24", with some calibers only coming in 20".
  • Varmint barrel not threaded, CTR barrel is threaded for a muzzle device.
There may be some more differences that I've missed - these are the ones that I could find.
Hope this helps.
Thanks. I also went to Tikka’s website and could not find a Varmint in 6.5CM but I found two online retailers with such models. One of the retailers shows a Varmint with a pic rail and adjustable cheek piece. I asked the retailer to confirm the specs of the rifle as its pictured on their site.
 

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What is the difference between a Tikka T3X CTR 6.5CM and a TIKKA T3X VARMIT 6.5 CREEDMOOR? Any difference in accuracy? They physically look the same to me. Thanks.

My .223 Varmint has a heavier barrel than the CTR does. It is as heavy or heavier than my medium palma that I put on my CTR.
 
Thanks. I also went to Tikka’s website and could not find a Varmint in 6.5CM but I found two online retailers with such models. One of the retailers shows a Varmint with a pic rail and adjustable cheek piece. I asked the retailer to confirm the specs of the rifle as its pictured on their site.

I'm betting it was an older model T3 Super Varmint model. They list that on their site under Tikka Old Models. The photo looks a lot like it.

T3 Super Varmint

tikka_t3_super_varmint_ss.png
 
I bought a Bravo and didn't like it. The cheek piece issue is a big design flaw which I just couldn't live with and the whole thing seemed as if it is built for midgets. The length of pull is too short even with the 3 spacers provided and the pistol grip is too short, leaving one finger hanging free. I'm also 5'11&1/2".

Well im a 6´4 and 2505lbs and i have no trouble of shooting with this chassis, i think the Bravo is great chassis for that price.
I have the tool-less buttbad and 2 spacer, and i think that is enough for me.
The pistol grip is also good size, and i do have large hand.
And what comes for that cheekpiece, i have heard that they have done new model of the cheekrest what will work with Tikka rifles.
I have two CTR and it is true, that the bolt will hit for the cheekrest, when it is on specific hight, but if you dare, you are able to fix that issue with very small effort, and get it work perfectly.

 

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Well in 6´4 and 2505lbs, i think the Bravo is great chassis for that price.
I have the tool-less buttbad and 2 spacer, and i think that is enough for me.
The pistol grip is also good size, and i do have large hand.
And what comes for that cheekpiece, i have heard that they have done new model of the cheekrest what will work with Tikka rifles.
I have two CTR and it is true, that the bolt will hit for the cheekrest, when it is on specific hight, but if you dare, you are able to fix that issue with very small effort, and get it work perfectly.
Here´s a short video what we took from last saturday, when i was doing first test with my new tripod.

I think your weight might be a little bit off. Unless you turned into a jacked up truck. :)
 
I have an older T3 Lite SS which came with Scope Rings.

I just got a newer T3x Lite SS which doesn't come with Scope Rings, and doesn't seem to have a bunch of replaceable grips out of the box. I was sort of expecting to see these items included.

Am I missing anything?
 
Well in 6´4 and 2505lbs, i think the Bravo is great chassis for that price.
I have the tool-less buttbad and 2 spacer, and i think that is enough for me.
The pistol grip is also good size, and i do have large hand.
And what comes for that cheekpiece, i have heard that they have done new model of the cheekrest what will work with Tikka rifles.
I have two CTR and it is true, that the bolt will hit for the cheekrest, when it is on specific hight, but if you dare, you are able to fix that issue with very small effort, and get it work perfectly.
Here´s a short video what we took from last saturday, when i was doing first test with my new tripod.

Well it's great that you like it, but it's not for me.
I could've Dremelled the cheek piece but reckon I shouldn't have to. That was just one of the things that I didn't like.
 
I have an older T3 Lite SS which came with Scope Rings.

I just got a newer T3x Lite SS which doesn't come with Scope Rings, and doesn't seem to have a bunch of replaceable grips out of the box. I was sort of expecting to see these items included.

Am I missing anything?

Same here. Just got a Varmint in .223 and had been told the proprietary rings would come with it. I ordered a rail from Mountain Tactical, but it seems to have been re-routed by USPS, so I'm still waiting. I have some Ken Farrel rings on my IOR scope that I can use. I'm hoping to get it mounted and sighted in this weekend.
 
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Not sure how I got away with this one but I convinced my wife I needed alot more practice so I built a tank trap and have it in the front living room. Cant wait to get this guy into the J Allen and put my 223 in the adjustable A5 and my future tikka 22 in my plain jane A5.
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Not sure how I got away with this one but I convinced my wife I needed alot more practice so I built a tank trap and have it in the front living room. Cant wait to get this guy into the J Allen and put my 223 in the adjustable A5 and my future tikka 22 in my plain jane A5.View attachment 6896562
If anybody asks call it an organic artisanal armchair. Or a concept art piece railing against the rigid confines of our materialistic world.
 
Been working on my CTR build for a few months now. My NF SHV F1 scope just came in as did a set of Seekins rings. I went with the medium rings (0.87”) based on some advice on the forum, but I’m curious if you think it’s too low? I played with it for a while, but this is about the max spacing between the objective and the barrel that I can get, as I can push the scope any farther forward or the magnification ring will interfere with the bolt/end of the rail. I can still get a thin lens cap on it, but anymore and it would be touching the barrel. This is a stock 0MOA rail btw. Any advice? Do you think this will be an issue and I should go to medium high rings? Or should I just not worry about it? Thanks in advance.
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Been working on my CTR build for a few months now. My NF SHV F1 scope just came in as did a set of Seekins rings. I went with the medium rings (0.87”) based on some advice on the forum, but I’m curious if you think it’s too low? I played with it for a while, but this is about the max spacing between the objective and the barrel that I can get, as I can push the scope any farther forward or the magnification ring will interfere with the bolt/end of the rail. I can still get a thin lens cap on it, but anymore and it would be touching the barrel. This is a stock 0MOA rail btw. Any advice? Do you think this will be an issue and I should go to medium high rings? Or should I just not worry about it? Thanks in advance. View attachment 6896683View attachment 6896684


If the eye relief works for you comfortably in current position and everything else works without interference or touching barrel then yes keep it. If eye relief doesn't work you mar have to go taller.
 
Been working on my CTR build for a few months now. My NF SHV F1 scope just came in as did a set of Seekins rings. I went with the medium rings (0.87”) based on some advice on the forum, but I’m curious if you think it’s too low? I played with it for a while, but this is about the max spacing between the objective and the barrel that I can get, as I can push the scope any farther forward or the magnification ring will interfere with the bolt/end of the rail. I can still get a thin lens cap on it, but anymore and it would be touching the barrel. This is a stock 0MOA rail btw. Any advice? Do you think this will be an issue and I should go to medium high rings? Or should I just not worry about it? Thanks in advance. View attachment 6896683View attachment 6896684
You should be fine if you don't plan on changing rails.
I went with the Med. High because of the 20 moa rail and I don't think the Med. would have worked for my 50mm
 

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I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, and I imagine this question has been asked before, but my search-fu didn't yield any concrete answers.

what mag will work with my new to me Tikka T3x in a KRG chassis (6.5 creed)?
the rifle came with an AI marked mag which appears to work fine, though it doesn't drop free all that easily.
I have some ARC mags and Magpul AI patterned mags, neither of which fit (I have a PVA JH on order and I'm hoping they work for that rifle)
my previous long range experience was primarily with desert tech, so that was a very straight forward equation.

will accurate mag branded mags work? how about ruger mags made for their gunsite rifle?

The KRG chassis is adjustable for how tight the mag fits. The handgu ard piece can slide forward.
 
Has anyone had issues with the Tikka CTR bottom metal and CTR mag's having feed issues when putting pressure against barricades? While training for my first upcoming PRS match, I've run into an issue where when digging into a barricade or jamming a game changer between the harris bipod and the mag I'm getting feed issues.

Here's the rifle I'm using for a frame of reference.
8GiRH2.jpg
 
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SP, on an empty mag how much up down movement do you have when the mag is clicked in. It might be you floor plate is sitting too low. Or the release lever is too short. You might need to fit the mag system a bit deeper into the stock to present the cartridge better to the bolt. Might be easier than making the release lever longer.
edi
 
I'm absolutely loving my Tikka. Started off as a T3X lite in 6.5 Creed. Put a Tikka performance 20 MOA rail and LRHS 3-12 on it with Nightforce Ultralite rings. Also put an MK Machining throw lever on it.

My smith just put a 24" benchmark on it and timed my TBAC break to it. I also picked up a CTR stock, bottom metal and mag on the post exchange so I can run 10 round mags till my Manners arrives.

I was running a PASS converted Harris bipod but picked up an Atlas today because I've been wanting to try one.

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Has anyone had issues with the Tikka CTR bottom metal and CTR mag's having feed issues when putting pressure against barricades? While training for my first upcoming PRS match, I've run into an issue where when digging into a barricade or jamming a game changer between the harris bipod and the mag I'm getting feed issues.

Here's the rifle I'm using for a frame of reference.
8GiRH2.jpg
I had the same issue with my CTR in a GGS Predator stock. I had a stage that I used a gamechanger on and it didn't pick up the next round. I put another bipod stud out as far forward as I could to give me more room between my mag and the lever on my Harris like you have. I also put some tape inside of the front of mag well to keep the front of the mag from tipping down. That has helped, but I need to fabricate a stop that will attach to the front of the bottom metal using a longer front action screw. Some brands of bottom metal have the mag well that extends below the stock a 1/2" or more.
 
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