Tikka T3 Thread

Ok, Tikka experts, I've got what should be an easy question, but I've Googled and searched and read and can't find a definitive answer. Is it possible to run a 300 wsm tikka t3 in a krg whiskey 3/xray? If so, what magazines would be best?
 
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First 21 rounds down my T3X Varmint tonight and it's safe to say it will be a shooter. 3 shots to get zero settled in and then 6 three shot groups with three different types of ammo. Second round of groups shot better once I got comfortable with the trigger. Trigger is pretty good but going to order a new spring for it. Pretty happy with the Tikka purchase so far!!


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Thanks, I thought so as well but figured I'd ask anyway. I'll just *ahem* shoot for half-MOA and see if I can do that to start with.



Well, I'm starting to see some discussion online about needing to bed it for larger calibers; specifically 338LM. Either way, I'm won't be messing with it for a while; if I ever do.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f26/poi-drift-300grain-matchkings-338lm-9051/
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/sako-trg-s-problem-6560/

The TRG-S and TRG are two different rifles. The TRG-s talked about in the links is a traditional bolt action, hunting oriented rifle, versus a TRG, which is a purpose built precision rifle.
 
Did Beretta enlarge the magazine port on the T3? From my understanding, it limits the chassis configurations to use AICS mags. I've ran the CDI and GRS bolthorn with AICS 300 win mag magazines, but am still limited in OAL. The remington 700 has the most generous magazine opening.
 
Has anyone ran the factory stock in a few PRS matches? Just curious to how it did - if the forearm is stiff enough etc.

Just throwing the idea around in my head - if I bought the 24" version I could buy the extra wide forearm piece and go with that - run it awhile before doing anything else.

Also, has anyone else experienced ejection problems with the brass hitting the scope when the bolt is ran fast like a previous poster? thanks
 
Has anyone ran the factory stock in a few PRS matches? Just curious to how it did - if the forearm is stiff enough etc.

Just throwing the idea around in my head - if I bought the 24" version I could buy the extra wide forearm piece and go with that - run it awhile before doing anything else.

Also, has anyone else experienced ejection problems with the brass hitting the scope when the bolt is ran fast like a previous poster? thanks

I ran my 20" 260 CTR in a few matches last year with the factory stock. I added some weight to the butt and used a stock pack. It shoots better than I can. It is a first gen CTR, not the CTRx. I have not had any problems with brass hitting my scope. I ran a Burris XTRII 4-20 and have a Bushnell LRHS 4.5-18 on it now, both in low rings. I have a German Gun Stock Predator on order.
 
Has anyone ran the factory stock in a few PRS matches? Just curious to how it did - if the forearm is stiff enough etc.

Just throwing the idea around in my head - if I bought the 24" version I could buy the extra wide forearm piece and go with that - run it awhile before doing anything else.

Also, has anyone else experienced ejection problems with the brass hitting the scope when the bolt is ran fast like a previous poster? thanks

I don't think you would find yourself at a substantive disadvantage if you did that.

I have 3 pre-X T3s; never had the scope turret problem. My scopes are LOW, too.
 
I ran my 20" 260 CTR in a few matches last year with the factory stock. I added some weight to the butt and used a stock pack. It shoots better than I can. It is a first gen CTR, not the CTRx. I have not had any problems with brass hitting my scope. I ran a Burris XTRII 4-20 and have a Bushnell LRHS 4.5-18 on it now, both in low rings. I have a German Gun Stock Predator on order.

Let us know what you think of that German Gun Stock. I was watching their videos on youtube a couple of weeks ago. Seems like a nice product.
 
I stopped in one of the gun shops I like. They've had a couple of 20" T3x CTRs that I've been fondling. Low and behold they now have one in 24". Then, to my surprise, sitting next to it was a Sako A7 Long Range chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The Sako is about $300 more than the T3x. I know the Tikka will have more aftermarket support than the Sako, but damn the Sako was nice.
 
Does anybody have a velocity comparison between the Tikka 20" and 24" barrels? I figured it would be around 120fps but would like some real world data if possible. Thanks!
 
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Just swapped out my atacr for a razor gen 2 and really liking how the color matches my mpa color. Plus it's a shooter. Not sure what happened on the shot to the upper left it was first shot after zeroing it then the next 4 dropped into the bottom hole


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I stopped in one of the gun shops I like. They've had a couple of 20" T3x CTRs that I've been fondling. Low and behold they now have one in 24". Then, to my surprise, sitting next to it was a Sako A7 Long Range chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The Sako is about $300 more than the T3x. I know the Tikka will have more aftermarket support than the Sako, but damn the Sako was nice.

I never came out and asked the question so I'll do it here. If you had to choose between the Sako and T3x (both in 6.5 creedmoor) which one would you choose? My biggest gripe with the Sako is the magazine capacity is only 3 shots. Not sure why they did that, but it is what it is.
 
Does anybody have a velocity comparison between the Tikka 20" and 24" barrels? I figured it would be around 120fps but would like some real world data if possible. Thanks!

With Prime ammo 20'' avg 2659, 24'' avg 2835 = 176. The 20'' had 80 rounds fired, 24'' 10 rounds so it might pick up some but these numbers seem close to what others are getting. 44 fps per inch.
 
I never came out and asked the question so I'll do it here. If you had to choose between the Sako and T3x (both in 6.5 creedmoor) which one would you choose? My biggest gripe with the Sako is the magazine capacity is only 3 shots. Not sure why they did that, but it is what it is.

Are you planning on doing much to the rifle down the road? I think you said it all in your earlier post. The T3x will have many more aftermarket options.
That being said, those Sako's are nice.
 
Are you planning on doing much to the rifle down the road? I think you said it all in your earlier post. The T3x will have many more aftermarket options.
That being said, those Sako's are nice.

I don't know how much I would do to the rifle. If I bought the tikka I know I would at least buy a new stock sooner rather than later. The Sako comes with a Bell and Carlson and while there are nicer stocks out there I was pretty impressed with how the B&C felt in my hands. Beyond stocks I'm not sure at this point what else I would do. With that said, it's nice to know I'm buying a rifle that has a lot of aftermarket support. If I choose to do something to it there are products available for it. It would seem the Tikka has much more aftermarket support than Sako. I certainly could be wrong though. I haven't searched that much. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
 
I ran my 20" 260 CTR in a few matches last year with the factory stock. I added some weight to the butt and used a stock pack. It shoots better than I can. It is a first gen CTR, not the CTRx. I have not had any problems with brass hitting my scope. I ran a Burris XTRII 4-20 and have a Bushnell LRHS 4.5-18 on it now, both in low rings. I have a German Gun Stock Predator on order.

Did you keep the factory bottom metal and mag and use that? Or did you send it to Jeff at CDI for an AICS install? thanks
 
Nice looking rifle Matt- what are the specs on that lefty?

t3x in a mpa comp chassis
bartlein 26 inch medium palma in 6.5 creedmoor with a area 419 hellfire brake.
yo dave trigger spring
atlas works bolt handle and knob
tikka performance rail
and razor gen 2 in arc m10 rings
 
Did you keep the factory bottom metal and mag and use that? Or did you send it to Jeff at CDI for an AICS install? thanks

I stayed with the factory bottom metal. I can load to 2.94" COAL and I picked up a couple of the CTRx mags for $60 and $70 used. They load and feed good and are shorter than other 10 round magazines.
 
Hey Folks,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I've tried searching using my google-fu, but I have come up empty handed. I recently purchased a Tikka t3x CTR chambered in 6.5 creedmore with the 24" barrel. I'm looking at taking advantage of the scope/mount package with the Razor Gen 1 5-20x50 and Spuhr mount, I'm just not sure which mount is going to be optimal. I will be using the standard stock until I can rebuild the budget for a KRG chassis so a cheek riser is out of the question for now. Based on my theoretical math, the SP-5001 with the 1.18" of height should work, I was just looking to confirm. I was also looking at the SP-5006, which is 1.35" tall, but I'm afraid that would be too high. What says the hive?

Thanks,

Pete
 
With that rifle the SP-4901 (1.18"/31moa) with stock flat rail works just about perfectly including Aadland caps on 62mm OD objective.

So if I am understanding you correctly, if I choose the SP-5601 (35mm Tube Size with 20 moa base) then I should still be fine, correct? The SP-4901 that you mentioned is designed for 34mm tube size and the Razor Gen 1 is 35mm. Also, with my intended range, which is 100-1000yds, 20 moa should be more than enough with the Razor's already available travel. Am I correct in this manner of thinking?

Thank you,

Pete
 
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Headed out after work tonight for the first time with my Tikka- First Tikka I have owened- T3X Varmint in 223 cut to 18''

Dude.... that reloading room. Wanna swap? Mine has no room to move, terrible light and no rcbs gear.
Just let me know when you want to move...
How did she shoot?
 
Yes as long as that mount is 1.18". I still have little lass than a cm even with caps.

So if I am understanding you correctly, if I choose the SP-5601 (35mm Tube Size with 20 moa base) then I should still be fine, correct? The SP-4901 that you mentioned is designed for 34mm tube size and the Razor Gen 1 is 35mm. Also, with my intended range, which is 100-1000yds, 20 moa should be more than enough with the Razor's already available travel. Am I correct in this manner of thinking?

Thank you,

Pete
 
Dude.... that reloading room. Wanna swap? Mine has no room to move, terrible light and no rcbs gear.
Just let me know when you want to move...
How did she shoot?

Thanks, I appreciate it. It can be yours, house is for sale :D

Tikka shoots great- have shot 6 different factories loads and all were sub MOA except 1. Does not like the light 55 grain bullets from the little bit I have shot it so far, prefers the 69, 75 and 77 Sierras. All of these are about half moa or less with factory Black Hills Ammo.
 
New Stock McMillan Compact, its the same profile as the Edge, but has standard fill. It still under 32 oz and weighs 1 oz less than the factory stock. This one is in Sonoran Camo, feels great in the hands. Rifle is just a smidge over 7 lbs,.

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Tikka T3 Ultralight 308 Win
McMillan Compact Sonoran
SB 1.1-4 Zenith FD7
Talley Detachable.


What is the barrel length on that rifle?


 
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copy the image location from the web, paste it in your reply then place [ i m g ] in front and [ / i m g ] behind the link. Of course there should be no spaces, I had to do that or the html would not display the text .


example below for this Tikka logo


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Has anyone switched to a proof research barrel on their tikka?

Im putting a 26" proof on my 30 Nosler build. The 1.2" diameter shank on the proof requires the action to be cut back so that barrel will meet flush without a step off (aesthetic only). Proof told me they do have plans on releasing barrels with a 1.13" diameter later this year.
 
Im putting a 26" proof on my 30 Nosler build. The 1.2" diameter shank on the proof requires the action to be cut back so that barrel will meet flush without a step off (aesthetic only). Proof told me they do have plans on releasing barrels with a 1.13" diameter later this year.

We/Hardy have done a pretty good pile of CF Tikka barrels. No surgery needed.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a mag retention spring for a T3 that attaches to the trigger assembly to keep the mags from falling. Been working on my rifle on and off for the last year and can't seem to find it anywhere. Any ideas are also welcome. Thanks in advance.
 

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