Tikka T3 Thread

[MWM-5150]

Latest improvement with the ESS stock outfit.
Kind of think, that this could be it.
Next thing i got the PRS bipod from Atlas, more or less easier to handle with that on the gun range.
Also in the santas wish list is a much better optics, something with 34mm main tube, more light and more view.
But this Sightron will do the job for that time, this aint bad, but dont got the +2G´s cahs for that optic now.

I really want to pull the trigger on one of those ESS stocks. Yours looks awesome. I have a couple questions for you:
-Is that the 18" forened?
-Are you using a 20MOA rail?
-What height rings are you using? My bell is already pretty close to the barrel and Im worried I would need to order taller rings to work with the added forearm height above the barrel.

Thanks.

 

[Tucker301]

I wish everyone saw it this way with the locals. We stock like 10-20 common gun and they bring in budsgunshop on their phone.

I use GB to get a baseline price and then go to my local to compare. I allow him $50-$60 to come up even with shipping and FFL fees. As long ash'e in that range we're good.

 

[Schleifalot]

My first kill, I got my hunting license in January.
Tikka T3x CTR in a PSE multi purpose stock with atlasworx bottom metal, Swaro 1,5-6x42 Abs 4, .308 ELDX 178grs factory ammo, Ase Utra SL7i silencer. Range 100m.

This is a great combo, Edi from PSE stocks knows his shit. Light, shootable, "führig" in German, recoil absorbing stock.

Man, first buck fever, now totally hooked.

 

[cnk]

Got lucky and found a T3X CTR SS in 6.5 Creedmoor at my local gun shop the other day. They were charging the same as Europtic so I bit. Paid $1148. Now the hunt for some glass.

 

[cnk]

From reading through some older posts, I was getting pretty nervous about removing the stock rail, but I decided to give it a go anyways. To my surprise, only took about 5m to get it off. Not sure if they are using some weaker loctite, but all my screws came out easily and I was able to pop the top rail off with a heat gun on low for about a minute or two. Cleaned it up with some acetone. Now all I have to do is order my 20moa rail.

 

[Ayoung1]

From reading through some older posts, I was getting pretty nervous about removing the stock rail, but I decided to give it a go anyways. To my surprise, only took about 5m to get it off. Not sure if they are using some weaker loctite, but all my screws came out easily and I was able to pop the top rail off with a heat gun on low for about a minute or two. Cleaned it up with some acetone. Now all I have to do is order my 20moa rail.

You got lucky, the front two screws came out with no heat just torx bit and socket. The back two didn't let loose with heat, I drilled them with a 9/64 bit and tapped a t20 torx in and they came out with a little finesse and heat. I'm glad it's over and now I have some experience with my next Tikka. I'm going to pick up a T3x 223 varmint as soon as I find one in stock, these things are a hell of a deal compared to other guns at the same price.

 

[cnk]

You got lucky, the front two screws came out with no heat just torx bit and socket. The back two didn't let loose with heat, I drilled them with a 9/64 bit and tapped a t20 torx in and they came out with a little finesse and heat. I'm glad it's over and now I have some experience with my next Tikka. I'm going to pick up a T3x 223 varmint as soon as I find one in stock, these things are a hell of a deal compared to other guns at the same price.

Oh most definitely. I was going to just try getting the screws out and if they weren't going to budge, I was just going to get a 20MOA scope mount and call it a day. I think I said a quick prayer before each screw when they started coming out so easily.

 

[Ayoung1]

Oh most definitely. I was going to just try getting the screws out and if they weren't going to budge, I was just going to get a 20MOA scope mount and call it a day. I think I said a quick prayer before each screw when they started coming out so easily.

Is yours stainless? I ask because I heard those don't have as much threadlike. Mine is not, the rail wasn't epoxied on too terrible either.

 

[cnk]

Is yours stainless? I ask because I heard those don't have as much threadlike. Mine is not, the rail wasn't epoxied on too terrible either.

Yes, mine is SS as mentioned above.

 

[Ayoung1]

I believe the stainless doesn't hold as good, I don't see them using a different threadlocker for the different finishes. There's no telling though, I have heard a few people say that the screws for the rail are much easier to remove on the stainless rifles.

 

[dannySH]

I have a SS and it came with threadlock on the screws and rail. A few passes with a gas torch and it came out easily. It took me more time cleaning the threadlock residue on top of the action than removing the rail itself.

 

[elfster1234]

Looking for suggestions for the bone stock 308 t3x ctr rifle. Need to increase my cheek weld by about 1/2" ish.... any recommendations? Already using vortex precision low rings.

 

[WarDamnRockets]

I had pretty much the same experience with my SS CTR, except I didn't have to use heat at all. My screws came out super easy, then, since I didn't really care about reusing the factory base, I gave the mirage band screw a little bit of a turn in, which broke the hold of the glue between the base and action. Now I just need to clean off the residue.

What are you guys using to clean it off? Acetone?

 

[wareagle700]

Looking for suggestions for the bone stock 308 t3x ctr rifle. Need to increase my cheek weld by about 1/2" ish.... any recommendations? Already using vortex precision low rings.

A stock pack from Triad Tactical works well.

Tikka T3X 6.5CM by X Ring, on Flickr

 

[WarDamnRockets]

elfster,

What about something like a stock pack? Something like this:

https://www.triadtactical.com/Triad-Stock-Pack.html

It looks like from the description that they're 3/8" thick and come with an extra 3/8" worth of spacers.

 

[elfster1234]

A stock pack from Triad Tactical works well.

Tikka T3X 6.5CM by X Ring, on Flickr

Thanks! Was already checking those out and thanks for the confirmation

 

[cnk]

What are you guys using to clean it off? Acetone?

I used acetone and a razor blade.

 

[dannySH]

I used acetone and a razor blade.

Same here, acetone and a blade with some elbow grease.

 

[wareagle700]

I guess I got lucky. My screws backed out with no trouble at all from the factory CTR base and little to no threadlocker was left behind.

My Sako TRG is another story. I had one screw head completely shear off.

 

[Graywolf.260]

Looking for suggestions for the bone stock 308 t3x ctr rifle. Need to increase my cheek weld by about 1/2" ish.... any recommendations? Already using vortex precision low rings.

Another thing you can do is slightly raise the stock CTR cheek rest. You need to pry off the round plastic screw cover then you can remove the screw and lift off the rest. Put a little foam padding in it, screw it on and replace the cap and you are good to go. You need to pay attention to clearance for bolt removal.

 

[Beneviolence]

Are your guys' 24" 6.5CM CTR's throated really long? I was getting a COAL of 2.985" with 140 RDF's to hit the lands, had to seat to 2.930" to fit in the mags so that's 55 thou off the lands already. The standard 2.860" would be quite the jump. Maybe I'm doing something wrong here.

Also, just "broke it in" while dry swabbing early and often. Sure seems to clean up nice now but I have no idea if it would have anyway.

 

[viking78]

I really want to pull the trigger on one of those ESS stocks. Yours looks awesome. I have a couple questions for you:
-Is that the 18" forened?
-Are you using a 20MOA rail?
-What height rings are you using? My bell is already pretty close to the barrel and Im worried I would need to order taller rings to work with the added forearm height above the barrel.

Thanks.

Hi.
Yep, that is 18" NV forend, and i do not have the ESS 20MOA picatinny rail on that, just the basic Tikka CTR picatinny rail, work just fine.
But i had to buy the high model Vortex precision rings for my scope, because of that forend tube, scope is Sightron SIII 6-24x50, i had with GRS Berserk stock before this, and mid high
was just fine for that stock model.

 

[viking78]

You can use Atlas bipod with the basic stock, if you add a 4" picatinny rail on the stock nose.

 

[blbennett1288]

Yeah I lucked out and found a Tikka T3x CTR 24" 6.5CM SS for $1148 at a local gun store in Birmingham. That is what EuroOptics had them for so I jumped on it.

I was able to get all the screws out no issue and get the rail off fairly easy. The residue looked like blue loctite, but it's hard to confirm. I replaced the standard 0MOA rail with a 20MOA rail. I used red loctite on the bottom of the rail and blue loctite on the screws

I picked up a Steiner T5Xi 5-25x56 from the Optics PX section at a price that was too good to pass up. I was looking at a PST GENII & XTRII and figured the T5Xi would be an upgrade for a couple hundred more at that price point

The scope should be here Wednesday and I'll take it to the CMP Talladega range Thurs/Fri and post pics.

i am still trying to decide between a stock or a chassis.

 

[Beneviolence]

Tried to take the scope base off and stripped 2 of 4. Tried using a stripped screw remover (Ryobi), it was softer than dog shit and just ripped the bolt heads off. Now I've got 3 usable holes and I'm waiting on the screws for the EGW 20MOA base.

Ya dun fucked up on those, Tikka. If you're going to loctite, use decent screws. If you're going to perma-loctite the snot out of a scope base on a long range rifle, use a damn 20MOA base.

 

[TexLuke]

Tried to take the scope base off and stripped 2 of 4. Tried using a stripped screw remover (Ryobi), it was softer than dog shit and just ripped the bolt heads off. Now I've got 3 usable holes and I'm waiting on the screws for the EGW 20MOA base.

Ya dun fucked up on those, Tikka. If you're going to loctite, use decent screws. If you're going to perma-loctite the snot out of a scope base on a long range rifle, use a damn 20MOA base.

I broke 1, stripped another of the four on my t3 260 a while back. I had to remove the screw heads and drilled out the studs. Touchy process but I removed both studs without harming the receiver threads.

I would definitely recommend using plenty of heat prior to removing this rail and screws.

 

[Ayoung1]

I broke 1, stripped another of the four on my t3 260 a while back. I had to remove the screw heads and drilled out the studs. Touchy process but I removed both studs without harming the receiver threads.

I would definitely recommend using plenty of heat prior to removing this rail and screws.

I agree, I used a solder gun when I should of used a butane torch.

 

[jLorenzo]

I have a Sako A7 Tecomate in 270WSM. Absolutely love it for a hunting rifle. I also saw the Sako A7 Long Range with the 26" bull barrel at my local gun shop recently. Really liked the look of it, and the stock felt fantastic. As a taller guy, the long LOP fit me right. However, the 3 round clip is a deal breaker. If you think about a competition shooting event, you would need to change the magazine 6 times to the Tikka's once to get 20 shots downrange. If they offered an aftermarket 10 round clip, that would be a different story too, but its not offered. I have spent a week looking online (would love to have someone prove me wrong with a link). To make matters worse, the magazine release is part of the action that goes around the recoil lug, so you can't easily just remove it and try and fit something else in its place. As much as I like my Sako, I cannot recommend it because of the magazine situation.

Wow so no way to buy a new stock or use current, send off for bottom metal in letting and have it work on all the Sakos or just the long range? (Arguably one of the guns in their line up that would benefit from a 10 round option the most)

 

[mpk1996]

What kind of prices are you guys finding your T3x CTRs for?

Well, I waited and waited to pull the trigger, but ended up with a brand new t3x SS CTR in 308 for $645 off of GB. couldn't believe I won the auction at that price.

 

[tevans0707]

Just finished up the bedding job on the tikka. This rifle is a dream to shoot! I can't wait to finally get to try it out in a match.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[SteveJ]

Wow so no way to buy a new stock or use current, send off for bottom metal in letting and have it work on all the Sakos or just the long range? (Arguably one of the guns in their line up that would benefit from a 10 round option the most)

I have continued researching this topic on the A7s. The A7 SA has a unique 7-13/64" bolt spacing. The closest other bottom metals would be for a Browning A-Bolt, which is only 1/64" too short (7-3/16" bolt spacing), or a Savage 10 or Howa 1500, which are 3/64" too long (7-1/4" bolt spacing). The Sako 85 action has a bolt spacing of 7-11/64, so making a universal bottom metal wouldn't work for all Sakos. I have been thinking about either modifying a PMAG AICS magazine to fit the Sako, or designing a bottom metal for the A7 that would be AICS compatible. It may give me an excuse to buy a 3D printer.

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Man, the magazine issue is deep!!
If there was a way to get a flush dual stack mag for a Tikka that took 5 rounds then you would be onto a massive winner... But alas... It's called a Sako!

AICS is not problem to get for me but I want a flush mag option that holds more than 3-4 rounds for small game hunting.... Greedy? Yep

 

[Ayoung1]

Anyone know who has a T3x 223 varmint in stock? None of my local dealers or the normal online dealers do.

 

[Juggerxxx]

I see two on GunBroker right now being sold by stores with positive reviews in the thousands. I picked one up off GunBroker in January and over 2000 rounds on it. Best rifle I have ever purchased.

 

[brado16]

Anyone know who has a T3x 223 varmint in stock? None of my local dealers or the normal online dealers do.

Got mine here, hell of a price too:

https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/ss-6616

 

[Ayoung1]

Got mine here, hell of a price too:

https://shop.whittakerguns.com/product/ss-6616

Thanks, I'm waiting on them to email me a price now. Only thing I would need to do is thread the barrel and put my spare YoDave trigger spring in.

 

[long range sponge]

I read through the posts and didn't see anything mentioned about the tsr-1. Anyone have hands on experience? Essentially a CTR in a Mcrees chassis?

 

[blbennett1288]

Yeah old stock T3's they put in a McRees G10. On page 17 and 18 HoustonB77 posted some pictures of one. Capitol Armory and EuroOptic have great deals on them right now. Maybe HoustonB77 will chime in about how he likes the G10. I am considering one also

 

[HoustonB77]

I read through the posts and didn't see anything mentioned about the tsr-1. Anyone have hands on experience? Essentially a CTR in a Mcrees chassis?

I've had one for a month or so now and the thing shoots flat out lights out. Even with factory ammo. I payed a lot more for mine by the way. :/
Here is a 4 shot group at 500 yards. Wind pushed the last one over. This is with factory ammo. My 260 dies came in the mail today by the way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[blbennett1288]

HoustonB77 did it come with any spacers or anything for length of pull adjustment? For chassis options it is really down to the G10 or an X-Ray for me

 

[HoustonB77]

HoustonB77 did it come with any spacers or anything for length of pull adjustment? For chassis options it is really down to the G10 or an X-Ray for me

The chassis is full adjustable for length of pull and cheek height. It's great. You can also replace the grip if you want.

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[long range sponge]

I must have rushed through the posts. The EuroOptic deal is the reason I asked. I'd prefer a creedmoor since I don't reload. I've been debating between a CTR and the Bergara HMR but this has added another level to the decision making.

 

[blbennett1288]

HoustonB77 I see the LOP adjustment now, it looks like a couple Allen screws that hold it in position and you just move the entire butt stock forwards or backwards along the rail. How is the butt pad on the G10? It looks considerably smaller than the KRG XRay or XLR Element. I don't shoot often, but when I do it is a couple days in a row and a hundred or so rounds a day. I already shoot suppressed so I am looking for a system that has a forgiving buttstock as I am sore after the second day. Keep in mind this is all with the standard Tikka T3x CTR stock.

long range sponge I was in the same boat and the TSR-1 was what really got me on the Tikka kick. Once I decided that I wanted a 6.5CM and 24" barrel the TSR-1 was out of the question since it is only .308 and .260 with a 20" barrel. The deals are so good right now on them though that it is within a couple hundred for what I paid for my stock T3x CTR 6.5CM 24" Stainless Steel. It might make sense to just buy 260 ammo in bulk from Prime/Copper Creek, and shoot out the 260 barrel and then convert to 6.5CM. Just a thought

 

[long range sponge]

Hornady loads the 130 eld and prime seems to do extremely well.

 

[HoustonB77]

HoustonB77 I see the LOP adjustment now, it looks like a couple Allen screws that hold it in position and you just move the entire butt stock forwards or backwards along the rail. How is the butt pad on the G10? It looks considerably smaller than the KRG XRay or XLR Element. I don't shoot often, but when I do it is a couple days in a row and a hundred or so rounds a day. I already shoot suppressed so I am looking for a system that has a forgiving buttstock as I am sore after the second day. Keep in mind this is all with the standard Tikka T3x CTR stock.

long range sponge I was in the same boat and the TSR-1 was what really got me on the Tikka kick. Once I decided that I wanted a 6.5CM and 24" barrel the TSR-1 was out of the question since it is only .308 and .260 with a 20" barrel. The deals are so good right now on them though that it is within a couple hundred for what I paid for my stock T3x CTR 6.5CM 24" Stainless Steel. It might make sense to just buy 260 ammo in bulk from Prime/Copper Creek, and shoot out the 260 barrel and then convert to 6.5CM. Just a thought

Well the rifle weighs 10 pounds without glass. By the time I got my glass, scope mount, bipod, and ammo in it is over 14. The but pad is also adjustable up and down so you can get it exactly like you like it in your shoulder. Recoil hasn't been a problem at all.

 

[HoustonB77]

Just finished up the bedding job on the tikka. This rifle is a dream to shoot! I can't wait to finally get to try it out in a match.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

The rifle looks great! What are you using to hold the 2 extra rounds on the side of the gun?

 

[blbennett1288]

SAP 2-Round holder. You can get them via Short Action Precision, Triad Tactical, or Rifles Only. $12.50

 

[blbennett1288]

The Tikka T3x CTR 6.5CM 24" barrel bone stock with SilencerCo Hybrid, Steiner T5Xi 5-25x56, Seekins Rings, bubble level, Harris bipod comes in at 13.5 without ammo. The G10 would be an increase in weight since the factory stock only weighs something like 28oz.

Right now I am leaning towards the G10 since in the long run with MLOK capabilities and folding stock it would be cheaper to outfit than a KRG XRay

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Cheeky little "Youth Rifle" project I'm working on with my son. He has been loving the .17 HMR but the wind and stopping power has been a limiting factor for him with small-medium game (Goats). He's mad keen on the Hunting gig so we needed to find him a suitable replacement for his "Hummer".
He's small so we shortened the stock and fitted a decelerator on a second hand T3 lite .223 1-8 Twist and load development is under way... I tried sighting in with the short stock that is now 11 inches. That was impossible to get a positive position in prone so I'll change it out to my Stug carbon stock and shoot some factory ammo to see if it works.
Managed a half decent 3 shot group with OSA 55 Sierra Game King.

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

Man the CTR seems light for a .308. Hows recoil? And would I do ok in getting one a the SWFA 10x fixed scopes? What would yall recommend for a lower priced can?