Also wanted to add, the finish and fit of my Sterks are outstanding. Better dovetail fit than my factory or Glades handles. Also Cerakote application was perfect and matches my existing Cerakote spot on.
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Finally got around to taking some decent pics. Figured I should contribute and keep us ahead of the RPR thread...
Thus far I've only done a few things to improve the performance of the factory configuration. No complaints while I save up for a chassis.
-Added the adjustable cheek riser
-Shaved some material out of the barrel channel so it it now fully free floating. (This actually did shrink my groups a bit)
-Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail
-Seekins High Rings (I thought these would be too high but they ended up perfect with the Vortex defender caps)
-SAS TOMB brake and Suppressor
-DMR2-i optic
-Im considering a Sterk (or similar) swept handle but I'd like to try one first. Im acually pretty happy with the factory bolt handle and knob.
Thus far I've only done a few things to improve the performance of the factory configuration. No complaints while I save up for a chassis.
-Added the adjustable cheek riser
-Shaved some material out of the barrel channel so it it now fully free floating. (This actually did shrink my groups a bit)
-Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail
-Seekins High Rings (I thought these would be too high but they ended up perfect with the Vortex defender caps)
-SAS TOMB brake and Suppressor
-DMR2-i optic
-Im considering a Sterk (or similar) swept handle but I'd like to try one first. Im acually pretty happy with the factory bolt handle and knob.
Finally got around to taking some decent pics. Figured I should contribute and keep us ahead of the RPR thread...
Thus far I've only done a few things to improve the performance of the factory configuration. No complaints while I save up for a chassis.
-Added the adjustable cheek riser
-Shaved some material out of the barrel channel so it it now fully free floating. (This actually did shrink my groups a bit)
-Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail
-Seekins High Rings (I thought these would be too high but they ended up perfect with the Vortex defender caps)
-SAS TOMB brake and Suppressor
-DMR2-i optic
-Im considering a Sterk (or similar) swept handle but I'd like to try one first. Im acually pretty happy with the factory bolt handle and knob.
You can't go wrong with the a sterk. I will be comparing the offerings from Sterk, Anarchy and Glades so be on the look out for that.
Anyone else have problems with seeing their suppressor through the scope? I have a 20" CTR and Bushnell LRS with factory base in medium rings. The scope is the perfect height for me but the view on low power is fucked. Guess I need higher rings.
I see some of my suppressor cover at 3.5 power in my HDMR while at home dry firing, but since I don't use this rifle for hunting and never use it at 3.5 in the field, I don't sweat it.
Yeah, I tried to live with it but I bought the rifle for hunting. I could probably get by while hunting deer or javelina but it will be used mostly for calling coyotes. Sometimes things happen fast and I don't want it blocking the view. I'll have to figure something out with the cheek rest.
Somewhat higher rings and some foam padding to raise your rest will work fine. Or go fancy and have Jducos cut you an adjustable rest.
Even a stock pack is a decent option for a hunting rifle.
Even a stock pack is a decent option for a hunting rifle.
I have a stock pack but it blocks the qd cup I installed and I don't really want to put too much money in a factory stock. I'll get a new stock for it after I get some other rifles set up.
Finally got around to taking some decent pics. Figured I should contribute and keep us ahead of the RPR thread...
Thus far I've only done a few things to improve the performance of the factory configuration. No complaints while I save up for a chassis.
-Added the adjustable cheek riser
-Shaved some material out of the barrel channel so it it now fully free floating. (This actually did shrink my groups a bit)
-Mountain Tactical 20MOA rail
-Seekins High Rings (I thought these would be too high but they ended up perfect with the Vortex defender caps)
-SAS TOMB brake and Suppressor
-DMR2-i optic
-Im considering a Sterk (or similar) swept handle but I'd like to try one first. Im acually pretty happy with the factory bolt handle and knob.
Man that is sharp looking, real clean, I like it.
Was it the fit and finish that was disappointing? The machining? Or was it just because it wasnt as swept back? I really dont want to wait until the next batch of Sterk handles/nobs.
Well, patience paid off, Sterk contacted me tonight and I have a Pineapple Bolt Handle and Bolt Shroud headed my way.
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The fit and finish was good on the Glades, what I didn't like is the lack of it being swept back. It was just a tad more then the factory handle. The rounded knob was the biggest of the 3 so far, I think that is because they are trying to make up for the lack of being swept back.
I was about to say, if you do the Anarchy handle and glades rounded knob you can't go wrong, but after receiving my Sterk I'm glad he had an extra for you. So far of the 3, Sterk has blown everyone else out of the water with fit, finish, etc.
Here are some comparisons between the anarchy and the sterk.
The sterk has a much longer sweep to it then the anarchy does. You can see from my pictures that the sweep isn't much different between the 2, but the sterk is further back. If you were to replace the PTG knob that is on the anarchy handle with the glades knob, they would be about the same. As well, the sterk has a longer shank before it starts to sweep back, the sterk being 1.616" and the anarchy being 1.589".
The anarchy does have alot more meat to the handle itself, especially where the handle threads into the knob, the sterk being .227" and the anarchy being .282".
The sterk has tighter tolerances, it took some persuading to get it into the bolt body, quite a bit more then the Anarchy. Whether that's due to cerakoted, I'm not sure? But seeing as how John from sterk put in his invoice email to not use hammers, vises, punches etc to try and install the bolt handle, I will chalk it up to tighter tolerances. The Anarchy slide in without any issues at all.
The fit and finish of the sterk is much higher then Anarchy. But given time I think Anarchys handles will start to have similar fit and finishes.
Overall you can't go wrong with either. My preference has to be there Sterk. I like where it places the knob, and the knob size is right.
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The sterk has a much longer sweep to it then the anarchy does. You can see from my pictures that the sweep isn't much different between the 2, but the sterk is further back. If you were to replace the PTG knob that is on the anarchy handle with the glades knob, they would be about the same. As well, the sterk has a longer shank before it starts to sweep back, the sterk being 1.616" and the anarchy being 1.589".
The anarchy does have alot more meat to the handle itself, especially where the handle threads into the knob, the sterk being .227" and the anarchy being .282".
The sterk has tighter tolerances, it took some persuading to get it into the bolt body, quite a bit more then the Anarchy. Whether that's due to cerakoted, I'm not sure? But seeing as how John from sterk put in his invoice email to not use hammers, vises, punches etc to try and install the bolt handle, I will chalk it up to tighter tolerances. The Anarchy slide in without any issues at all.
The fit and finish of the sterk is much higher then Anarchy. But given time I think Anarchys handles will start to have similar fit and finishes.
Overall you can't go wrong with either. My preference has to be there Sterk. I like where it places the knob, and the knob size is right.
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Well thanks to Frank/Lowlight for posting that sexy Tikka TAC A1 pic with the handle and shroud, and thanks to tevan0707 for his writeup/comparison.
Yes the Cerakote can add a tiny bit to the 3 dovetail faces in contact with the bolt cut out for the handle. The silver handles are machined and then polished so they slip right in, but adding the Cerakote to a high-tolerance part makes it snug as a bug. Due to the Anarchy being raw/silver i'd expect it to not be tight and slip in pretty easily. Tikka has tolerances and so do I, so if you get a tight bolt and a big handle (so to speak) it'll be real snug.
It's great that people are receiving their gear now and taking pictures too. Thanks to those supporting Sterk!
Yes the Cerakote can add a tiny bit to the 3 dovetail faces in contact with the bolt cut out for the handle. The silver handles are machined and then polished so they slip right in, but adding the Cerakote to a high-tolerance part makes it snug as a bug. Due to the Anarchy being raw/silver i'd expect it to not be tight and slip in pretty easily. Tikka has tolerances and so do I, so if you get a tight bolt and a big handle (so to speak) it'll be real snug.
It's great that people are receiving their gear now and taking pictures too. Thanks to those supporting Sterk!
Okay, two stupid Tikka questions real quick.
1. Where do I buy one of those Sterk swept bolt handle's? Maybe my google-fu is broken, but I don't really see a website, just a facebook page. Somebody point me in the right direction?
2. This is a length question ( I know, I know, it's always about size with me!). Nobody seems to know or care about this question, but I would love an answer. How much longer is a Tikka T3 Action than a Rem 700 SA??
I know the Tikka's are all "long action", but what I'm really getting at is: If rifle A has a 20" barrel and a 12.75" LOP with a Tikka T3 action, and rifle B has a 20" barrel and a 12.75" LOP with a Rem 700 action, assuming both rifles have the same stock, then HOW MUCH LONGER IS RIFLE A??
I know this is a "why does it matter?" question, but I would really like to know, and I've been unable to find the answer after some serious searching. "Why don't you just measure yourself?" Funny thing, I own a T3, but I, nor any of my close relatives own a Rem700SA. Thanks for the help!
1. Where do I buy one of those Sterk swept bolt handle's? Maybe my google-fu is broken, but I don't really see a website, just a facebook page. Somebody point me in the right direction?
2. This is a length question ( I know, I know, it's always about size with me!). Nobody seems to know or care about this question, but I would love an answer. How much longer is a Tikka T3 Action than a Rem 700 SA??
I know the Tikka's are all "long action", but what I'm really getting at is: If rifle A has a 20" barrel and a 12.75" LOP with a Tikka T3 action, and rifle B has a 20" barrel and a 12.75" LOP with a Rem 700 action, assuming both rifles have the same stock, then HOW MUCH LONGER IS RIFLE A??
I know this is a "why does it matter?" question, but I would really like to know, and I've been unable to find the answer after some serious searching. "Why don't you just measure yourself?" Funny thing, I own a T3, but I, nor any of my close relatives own a Rem700SA. Thanks for the help!
Can PM me but email [email protected] to order swept handles/shrouds/pineapple titanium or grooved handles.
Don't have a website - yet, just the Facebook page soz.
Don't have a website - yet, just the Facebook page soz.
Thanks for making a great product! And throwing in that bottle opener, very clever design!! I wished now I would have ordered 2 handles, I will be patiently waiting for your next batch!
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cannoncrossfire I don't see the shroud that Frank posted a picture of on the Sterk Facebook page. Is it new?
tevan0707 Nope, this is the one I was talking about. From Frank/Lowlight's post further up. The two look slightly different to me.
I can always let you know tevan0707 if there are any handles left over.
WarDamnRockets - good observational skills mate, Frank/Lowlight is doing some product testing for me. That's 1 of only 3 GEN2 Shrouds in Existence. I'll release more info later once I do some testing and photos too. It's still titanium, slightly lighter than GEN1 and actually more difficult to make. Gotta stay ahead of the competition though! Hard to improve on the swept ball handle though - as some manufacturers might have found out now.
WarDamnRockets - good observational skills mate, Frank/Lowlight is doing some product testing for me. That's 1 of only 3 GEN2 Shrouds in Existence. I'll release more info later once I do some testing and photos too. It's still titanium, slightly lighter than GEN1 and actually more difficult to make. Gotta stay ahead of the competition though! Hard to improve on the swept ball handle though - as some manufacturers might have found out now.
cannoncrossfire I knew I wasn't going crazy! I think that Gen 2 shroud might be the best looking Tikka shroud around. Can't wait to hear more.
This is the shroud he is talking about.
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How much do those bolt knobs run? That is sweet!
You can get them from sterk industries on Facebook. The handle and rounded knob runs around $100 and the shroud around $80 USD.
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I think I just replied to your message HoustonB77, yes the Swept Ball handles are $100 AU which is $80 US (current currency conversion) and the Titanium shrouds are $105AU which is $85 US.
Thanks WarDamnRockets, I hope people will agree with you haha - I thought 'damnnnn - nice' when it popped out of the CNC though. My CAD models and 3D printed prototypes didn't do it justice until it was machined.
Thanks WarDamnRockets, I hope people will agree with you haha - I thought 'damnnnn - nice' when it popped out of the CNC though. My CAD models and 3D printed prototypes didn't do it justice until it was machined.
I love the one on Franks TAC A1! Best I have seen, along with your handles. Im just too impatient. One day ill get some Sterks gear.
cannoncrossfire, since I am not on Facebook, can you post a pic of your handle and knob choices here? If nothing else, at least the other options that we haven't already seen here?
Thanks
Thanks
Anyone running one of these rails on their CTR?
http://xtremehardcoregear.com/tru_level_pic_rail.html
http://xtremehardcoregear.com/tru_level_pic_rail.html
Not having any issues with heavy bolt lift at all. Have you checked your loads? Maybe they are heavy for your Tikka.
Sounds like a hot load. That being said, I took a buffing wheel on the dremel with a little bit of rouge and hit the cocking piece and cocking ramp for about 30 seconds. Add a teeny dab of grease and it'll smooth it out significantly.
When I ran that Hornady Super Performance I had some that had heavy bolt lifts, but once I switched to Hornady ELD-M and Creedmoor Sports Ammo I havn't had that issue.
I am running a MPA BA with a AI 10rd mag and the first round is always a bitch to chamber, after that it is smooth sailing. Anyone else have that issue?
Ill sell you mine when I get my Sterk in the mail. I did take the Sport Bolt handle off temporarily just to see what the standard handle felt like, I put it back on but it is not as snug as when it came from the factory. I think they hot glued it in there or something.
Thanks for the info on the bolt handle! Can anyone answer my action length question? Please?
