Thunderhorse - How is the balance in the fairly lightweight KRG chassis? I know the varmint contour on the Tikka are hefty and am wondering.
Looks great all put together! congrats
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Thunderhorse - How is the balance in the fairly lightweight KRG chassis? I know the varmint contour on the Tikka are hefty and am wondering.
Looks great all put together! congrats
Which rods are you guys using for your 223 tikkas? Would a 20 cal dewey work or do I need to get a 223 also? I don't want to collect rods for every caliber, so if I can get a 20 cal that I can use for 20, 22 and 223, I would prefer that. I'm wondering if I use the 20 cal with the correct (223) jag/brush, if it will flex too much.
Haven't been on here since the switch to the current look. I can't seem to find my subscriptions anymore. Really sucks if they were lost...I had marked a few threads for future reference.
thanks
Haven't been on here since the switch to the current look. I can't seem to find my subscriptions anymore. Really sucks if they were lost...I had marked a few threads for future reference.
thanks
Tikka T3 Tactical .308 with original 24" barrel (notice swell near muzzle), 18-1 thread and TRG brake. 502 rds
Tikka T3x Tac A1 .308 24" barrel, NF NXS zero stop 5.5-22x56 MOAR. Virgin.
Together...enjoy !
Alpha Mike Foxtrot
GW1, Gothic Serpent, GWOT...somewhere in the Magic Kingdom
"Did your parents have any children that lived? ... I bet they regret that." GySgt Hartmann
Tikka T3x Tac A1 .308 24" barrel, NF NXS zero stop 5.5-22x56 MOAR. Virgin.
Together...enjoy !
Alpha Mike Foxtrot
GW1, Gothic Serpent, GWOT...somewhere in the Magic Kingdom
"Did your parents have any children that lived? ... I bet they regret that." GySgt Hartmann
Thanks guys!
The balance point is just forward of the mag fence, so obviously a little front heavy because of the barrel, but I don't think its that bad. Usually when I hunt I either shoot off the bipod or rest on a tree limb or something. Its way nicer to shoot than it was with the factory stock because of the added weight, but its also not a whole lot heavier than it was before.
Has anybody taken their T3x lite in .308 and had the original barrel threaded to accept a brake?
I am assuming the diameter of the barrel isn't enough for a 5/8x24 thread, but curious about what length I could achieve that at. Don't have anything to measure it with currently.
I am assuming the diameter of the barrel isn't enough for a 5/8x24 thread, but curious about what length I could achieve that at. Don't have anything to measure it with currently.
Not a 308 but I've threaded my T3 Lite .243 and friend of mine threaded his 300WSM. Both of us had 1/2-28 threads cut, no issues, rifles shoot great.
Anyone else experienced some of the coating wearing away on the rear-face of the bolt lugs for the CTR? Only concerned that the coating may be enough thickness that as it wears away it could change the headspace. Roughly ~800 rounds through the rifle. Should I just keep it lubed and not worry about it?
Factory blued ctr? I wouldn't worry about it. Blueing adds maybe .0001 inch of thickness. I grind aerospace parts to that tolerance all of the time at work. That's 1/18th the thickness of a thinning hair as measured from my head. If you raise the temperature of your bolt by 20°f, your locking lugs grow more than that (assuming ~1 inch long lugs).
Looking up headspace tolerances they are closer to 0 for go, +.004 to +.006 (depending on manufacturer) for no go, and +.008 for a field gauge.
Standard college ruled notebook paper is generally .0025- .003 inches thick as a comparison.
Not a gunsmith and don't even own a tikka yet.
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I have ready the specs. but can't answer this...is the difference between the Tac A1 and the Tac just the chassis vs. more traditional stock?
The A1 has a 2 stage trigger and the Tac has a different barrel profile.
There might be more differences that someone else knows....
No, it's not a bluing, which is odd. The T3 that I had before the CTR had just stainless but this appears to be a teflon coating put ontop of the stainless bolt to make it easier to cycle. I'll try to get a picture of it some point later on when I got time.
I had some of that (more so with the T3 than the CTR) but it was user error for me; the magazine wasn't always seated properly. You need to press in on the front and back and really get it to latch in. Sometimes the rounds would feed but smack into the top if the rear wasn't seated or it would nosedive if the front of the magazine wasn't fully seated. Just make it a habit to really smack the magazine in.
I haven't had issues with the springs causing it though.
Yeah, it sure looked like it. The T3's were smooth but the coating makes it butter. I'll just keep shooting; I'm not seeing any headspacing signs on the case/primer. I am pleasantly surprised that the rifle sped up ~60ft/s in the past few hundred rounds. Not sure if it was the copper solvent clean or just finally working; it did seem a bit slow for the load (2775 ->2835 140gr RDF)
Have any of you guys added a pic rail for a bipod to a factory plastic stock? I’m looking to do so, and trying to figure the best way to go about it.
The stock doesn’t seem like it has enough material to be confident that a nut or blind nut won’t tear out under load, so my current thinking is to fill in the pockets between the front set of x-bracing with some sort of epoxy to create a nice hard spot, then drill/counterbore and glue in a T-Nut for the rear rail screw.
Am I over-thinking this? Would Devcon be a good epoxy to use, or should I go with something like an epoxy/microballoon combo?
The stock doesn’t seem like it has enough material to be confident that a nut or blind nut won’t tear out under load, so my current thinking is to fill in the pockets between the front set of x-bracing with some sort of epoxy to create a nice hard spot, then drill/counterbore and glue in a T-Nut for the rear rail screw.
Am I over-thinking this? Would Devcon be a good epoxy to use, or should I go with something like an epoxy/microballoon combo?
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I've searched here and elsewhere and find nothing but confusion and/or lack of information.
What "aftermarket" 5 or 10 round magazines are interchangeable with those that come with the Tikka T3X A1 rifle?
AICS appears to be one possibility but I'm not sure which one.
All help appreciated.
George
What "aftermarket" 5 or 10 round magazines are interchangeable with those that come with the Tikka T3X A1 rifle?
AICS appears to be one possibility but I'm not sure which one.
All help appreciated.
George
That is good to know thank you. Will have to talk go my local smith when I get back from the family trip next week.
As for adding picatinny rail on the factory stock, I was thinking doing the same thing with epoxy. Not looking to change a whole lot on the rifle, as it's more multipurpose.
No. You will have to get a Timney or wait for KRG to come out with their 2 stage. Or get a SAKO TRG trigger if money is no object. Plenty of aftermarket stocks that adjust. Best bang for buck IMO is KRG Bravo. I have a black one that is lightly used that I'd like to sell/trade for a green one.
Ten days after I took possession, I finally took her out for a spin today, and I couldn't be more pleased.
Tikka T3x CTR - 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" bbl, Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50, Griffin Recce 7 silencer.
The target is the first 3 rounds through the barrel - my 100-yd. boresight target!
I'm actually liking the factory stock so far.
No buyer's remorse here - none whatsoever.
Tikka T3x CTR - 6.5 Creedmoor, 24" bbl, Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50, Griffin Recce 7 silencer.
The target is the first 3 rounds through the barrel - my 100-yd. boresight target!
I'm actually liking the factory stock so far.
No buyer's remorse here - none whatsoever.
Great looking setup! I have the same scope and rings on my Tikka
Nice and crisp, like a Tikka. It came from the factory set at 3 lbs. 8 oz., and broke like a stick of glass. It was very nice, and I almost left it alone. Almost. I couldn't resist trying a lighter pull, so I adjusted it down to 2 lbs. 4 oz.
I think I'll leave it alone for awhile. I have a Tikka T3 Hunter that I bought back in '07, and it has an amazing trigger as well. They do it right. At least, that's been my experience.
I've seen the pics you posted of your rig. Very nice! Right now I'm liking the factory stock on mine, but if I ever get the itch to switch, that Bravo looks like the way to go!
Does the T3X CTR use a single stage trigger? I don’t understand what Tikka means when they say “standard trigger” and “set trigger (stecher)” on their website. Thanks.
Excited for my new T3x ctr 6.5 creed build.
Curious if you guys are having any/good luck with aics pmags in a KRG W3 G5 chassis with this setup? I'll be running factory Hornady 140 or 147 eld-m (whichever it likes more).
Thanks in advance. I'm sure this has already been discussed but I couldn't find the topic.
Curious if you guys are having any/good luck with aics pmags in a KRG W3 G5 chassis with this setup? I'll be running factory Hornady 140 or 147 eld-m (whichever it likes more).
Thanks in advance. I'm sure this has already been discussed but I couldn't find the topic.
I believe the pmags don't work with the tikkas without extensive work to the mags. The problem is with the action having so much meat on the bottom.
Agreed. The triggers are excellent. And if you do want it a bit lighter than it will go stock, there's multiple options for trigger springs. I've been going with the Elay Precision springs that go down to 1 lb. They're only $10 and free shipping from the US.
Having had a yo Dave, I prefer the 2lb with factory spring once broken in.
Yo Dave is good but the feel is better with the factory spring in my opinion once the trigger gets some use.
I haven't tried the Yo Dave, so I can't comment on that particular spring, but I do like my Elay springs in my T3x SL and CTR. With that said, I think most people will be more than pleased with the factory spring, but it is nice having a $10 option for lightening the trigger pull even more, that only takes a couple minutes to change.
Both are right. I have a very well used Tikka with factory spring with 1lb 9 oz trigger pull and one not so used Tikka with Elay spring with 1lb 5 oz. Both triggers are awesome.
Question about 20 moa mounts. I got my new scope and Spuhr Mount yesterday for the CTR. Mounted this morning and did a quick bore site set up. I was a little surprised at how little the 6 mil/ 20.6 moa mount made in adjustment elevation. As of right not on the bench at 100 yards again bore sited it only changed my elevation 2 Mils. Guess I was thinking that 6mils meant that it would change 6mils at 100 yards? Or am I just not understanding what the Mount really does? Mind you I have not had a chance to get out and shoot it yet with the new setup so POI vs POA is net tested yet. Thoughts? Mainly trying to learn.
Just realized I have the front and back top plates reversed too. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but will see what happens when I switch them.
The top plates on the Spuhr are the same. The 20moa can’t is in the base of the mount
I was figuring that was the case. They do have different part numbers and are listed as front and rear by Spuhr but didn’t figure they had anything to do with the cant. So how much of a change should I expect to see at 100 yards then? 2 Mils seems like not enough.
No factory new set in middle of total travel. Not sure it really matters in the long run. I have 15 Mils of up available as is which puts me out to 1500 or so yards. More than I will normally shoot so think I will just run with it.
if you would have zeroed with a 0 moa rail then a 20moa rail you would most likely seen the difference! But no one can guess where a cenereed scope on a new rifle will zero!
I have had a 308 win, 300 wsm, and 22-250 all T3 lite threaded 1/2x28 and then bushing up to 5/8x24 from there.
