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My buddy runs 42.8 g of H4350, 140 Hornady Bthp in hornady brass with CCI 200 primers. Around half moa, 2700 fps, single digit SD with solid hits at 800-1,000 yards.
Its a tad on the warm side for h4350 so work up to it. No pressure signs, though.
Difference on the action versus T3 and T3X is that across groove on the action.
Left on old and new one on the right.
Left on old and new one on the right.
Not the best shooting but a win is a win!!
I am 198, by buddy is 138, I have a Tac A1 6.5 he has an AI 308.
I believe its a Wild Dog Composites stock. The stocks themselves were well regarded, but the manufacturers delivery, not so much. I believe the stock production folded some years ago and the stocks are unobtanium now.
Thanks very much! My google fu failed me.
Has anyone seen an AICS for the T3? I'll call Eurooptic Monday and ask what happened to it, but it certainly doesn't seem available now, if it was previously.
223AI, factory barrel rechambered. My load is 2.41" OAL, mag is 2.562" plenty of room.
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I believe there is a an aics milled for a tikka in the PX right now.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/aics-2-0-cut-for-tikka-and-b-c-rem-700-la.6893827/
Finally got around to emailing KRG this week about the Tikka specific cheekpiece and they sent me one for free. The new one didn't come with the posts attached so I had to drill a small hole in the top of each plug, drive a small screw into it, and pull it out with pliers in order to get at the screw to remove the posts and move them over to the new cheekpiece.
Now that the cocking indicator on the bolt doesn't hit the cheek riser I got the Bravo dialed in perfectly-and I mean it is perfect. Finally done with this build-guest appearance from Riley the Heeler in pic #2
Now that the cocking indicator on the bolt doesn't hit the cheek riser I got the Bravo dialed in perfectly-and I mean it is perfect. Finally done with this build-guest appearance from Riley the Heeler in pic #2
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![20180728_230710[1].jpg](/shooting/data/attachments/111/111850-a57714c8b04e5e125966ee92f7ceb08a.jpg)
![20180728_230758[1].jpg](/shooting/data/attachments/111/111851-be3868573f59e1ced5bb88a295b02599.jpg)
.20inch .308 Hunting Rifle with the LRTSi. 8.6lb as pictured
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I own or have owned two of the 3-12 LRHS, a few of the DMR's and two of the XRS II's so it's fair to say I think Bushnell's elite tactical line of products are outstanding. I have owned or used a lot of the 'alpha' glass and I don't feel there is a better deal on a riflescope than the GAP deal on bushy scopes currently being offered. The illumination on the LRTSi is a welcome addition. So far every one of the Elite Tactical scopes I've owned has tracked dead on to the point I no longer bother with tall target tests, I just shoot them at distance.
Thanks. I also have a DMRII and a 3-12 LRHS and like them, the DMR is a bit large for a cross over rifle though and I've been thinking of changing it to a LRTSi.
Hello, my first time posting here. Got a Tikka T3x Tac A1 in 6.5 CM last week and shot it for the first time over the weekend. Out of the 4 factory ammo tested, 3 of them shot 5 shot 1 hole group at 100 yards. I have been a gas gun shooter and this is my first bolt gun and some of the things are new to me. I noticed a couple of things:
It was somewhat difficult to close bolt on the 2 Hornady ammo (140 and 147 ELD-M), no such issue with Federal GMM (130 Berger and 140 SMK). Why is that and should I be worried about shooting more Hornady ammo?
Also, looking at fired brass, the shoulder swelled a lot, leaving very little neck. I have never seen that in a gas gun. In a gas gun, the case measure bigger after firing but the overall shape still looks the same as before firing. Is what I am seeing normal?
It was somewhat difficult to close bolt on the 2 Hornady ammo (140 and 147 ELD-M), no such issue with Federal GMM (130 Berger and 140 SMK). Why is that and should I be worried about shooting more Hornady ammo?
Also, looking at fired brass, the shoulder swelled a lot, leaving very little neck. I have never seen that in a gas gun. In a gas gun, the case measure bigger after firing but the overall shape still looks the same as before firing. Is what I am seeing normal?
That doesn't sound normal at all. Can you post a picture or two of the brass? New and once fired. Could it be you were accidentally given a 260 instead of a 6.5 creedmoor? The left side of the barrel by the action should be stamped with the caliber and you'll be able to see it with the help of some light through the handguard.
I will post the picture tonight. Thank you much!
No not normal at all, infact sounds dangerous I would check everything out carefully
HaysKSFirefighter was right on, it was indeed 260 remington. I guess I checked out too fast. Funny thing it shot 6.5 CM factory ammos so well. Thank you both for helping solving the mystery, I'd never have thought to double check the caliber.
I guess I'll be a proud owner of two Tikka T3x Tac A1 rifles soon.
I guess I'll be a proud owner of two Tikka T3x Tac A1 rifles soon.
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Checked out too fast ?HaysKSFirefighter was right on, it was indeed 260 remington. I guess I checked out too fast. Funny thing it shot 6.5 CM factory ammos so well. Thank you both for helping solving the mystery, I'd never have thought to double check the caliber.
I guess I'll be a proud owner of two Tikka T3x Tac A1 rifles soon.
Your lucky you didn't check out permanently.
I would not try shooting that .260 until you have a very good smith inspect it for damage....
First post. Hi.
Here's my Tac A1. Got a killer deal on it a couple months ago, but it's my first bolt gun ever (and the first rifle I've owned since the 90s), so I also had to buy EVERYTHING else. Knew ahead of time that I'd need a scope, sling, bipod, and mat, but it turns out that when you're starting from scratch you also need a whole lot of other stuff: Vise, tools, a rifle-length cleaning rod and bore guide, rifle targets, new ear pro that doesn't get pushed off your head by the cheekpiece, a bigger range bag to hold your pistol gear AND all your new rifle paraphernalia, more ammo storage, more gun storage, more accessory storage, etc, etc.
Fortunately, I discovered the Hide right around the time I bought the rifle. Got equipment info from the forums, and some really good deals as well.
Anyway, the gun. I still haven't fired the thing, but I've got almost all the pieces together and I'm really looking forward to going out and finally starting to learn how to use it.
Tikka T3x Tac A1, 6.5 Creedmoor
Vortex Razor HD Gen2, 4.5-27x56
Spuhr SP-4603B
CTK monopod
MPA EVG grip
Sterk bolt handle
BLK LBL integrated bipod (looked interesting, couldn't find any reviews, so I'll try it and write one)
APA Little B brake
Still waiting for scope caps and a sling
Here's my Tac A1. Got a killer deal on it a couple months ago, but it's my first bolt gun ever (and the first rifle I've owned since the 90s), so I also had to buy EVERYTHING else. Knew ahead of time that I'd need a scope, sling, bipod, and mat, but it turns out that when you're starting from scratch you also need a whole lot of other stuff: Vise, tools, a rifle-length cleaning rod and bore guide, rifle targets, new ear pro that doesn't get pushed off your head by the cheekpiece, a bigger range bag to hold your pistol gear AND all your new rifle paraphernalia, more ammo storage, more gun storage, more accessory storage, etc, etc.
Fortunately, I discovered the Hide right around the time I bought the rifle. Got equipment info from the forums, and some really good deals as well.
Anyway, the gun. I still haven't fired the thing, but I've got almost all the pieces together and I'm really looking forward to going out and finally starting to learn how to use it.
Tikka T3x Tac A1, 6.5 Creedmoor
Vortex Razor HD Gen2, 4.5-27x56
Spuhr SP-4603B
CTK monopod
MPA EVG grip
Sterk bolt handle
BLK LBL integrated bipod (looked interesting, couldn't find any reviews, so I'll try it and write one)
APA Little B brake
Still waiting for scope caps and a sling
That looks way way better than with the stock handle from FAB.
How do you like that MPA grip?
I have trying to find those, but on the EU there are none who import these, and in the US there is no who shipped these overseas with a reasonable price.
How do you like that MPA grip?
I have trying to find those, but on the EU there are none who import these, and in the US there is no who shipped these overseas with a reasonable price.
Well the fired 6.5 CM brass look more like 260 REM brass after firing. Here is the pic.
And the 100 yard 3 shot groups from 4 different factory ammo, 2 hornady, 2 federal GMM. No trouble closing bolt on the Federal. These are 6.5 CM ammo shot through 260 Rem chamber.
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How tall you are?
You have extra lop kit in your rifle.
I got toolless buttbad kit and all the lop spacer that come´s with the rifle, and im quite like it, i am 6,4".
Man you got incredibly lucky as has already been mentioned. Happy I could help, though I was hoping I was wrong! This goes to show the strength of these actions, but you really need to have it checked over by a smith before firing it. If you've seen an action blow up and the damage it can do, it's something you don't want to mess with...all kinds of bad juju. That being said, if it's good, the factory Hornady 130gr 260 ammo has been fantastic for my 260 Tikka's, Prime is great too on that front!
WOW!
Wrong ammo through a gun...and lots of it! And it shot like that? My mind is blown - just glad the gun wasn't.
Wrong ammo through a gun...and lots of it! And it shot like that? My mind is blown - just glad the gun wasn't.
must be one of those new/prototype Tikka multi cal rifles.
I love it, for three reasons:
1. Prone, my hand naturally aligns much better with the vertical MPA grip than with the raked Tikka grip. Note, though, that my prone position is based on 20-year-old muscle memory and I've never owned a rifle this adjustable, so it's certainly possible that I'm "doing it wrong". The rifle can probably be configured to support a different prone position -- with my strong-side elbow pushed further out, maybe -- which might make the factory grip angle feel more natural.
2. The trigger-finger support makes a HUGE difference for me. With the factory grip, my finger curls around the trigger with the trigger face wedged into the crease of my first knuckle -- I have to rotate my hand a little unnaturally around the back of the grip in order to get a good 90-degree contact between the trigger face and the pad of my finger. But the MPA grip puts my finger exactly where it should be, and in exactly the right orientation -- it's difficult NOT to press the trigger straight back.
3. I'd rather keep my thumb free than wrap it around the grip -- it just seems to me that that's one less point for the rifle to rotate around when it recoils. The thumbrest on the MPA grip keeps my thumb from just "floating", so my hand position is the same every time.
?this needs to be sent to beretta/sako for advertisement! Tikka still shoots 1/2 moa with wrong ammo! lol
I'd say nil damage done, just like fireforming for improved cartridges. You've probably just invented the next big 6.5 chambering, short neck 260 Rem. Just get a reamer ground with your name on it, I hear it may be the next wonder cartridge in PRS circles next year lol. In all seriousness you should have stopped after the first round and sought the advice of someone more knowledgeable, lesson learned I hope. Had you managed to chamber a shorter version of some 7mm, 30 cal etc round you may have given yourself a permanent reminder of your carelessness.
I once grabbed the wrong box of ammo at the range and loaded up my M1a with 8 mm Mauser commercial FMJ... The shoulder of the case prevented it from chambering.
Visually everything looks fine. I even used a bore camera to look at the chamber. I scheduled an appointment with a local gunsmith to have it checked out. I just ordered some Lapua 260 Rem brass and another T3x TAC A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor, double and triple checked my order this time. Thanks again for solving my puzzling mystery. I also checked out Prime site, why would they charge $5 per box more for 260 REM than 6.5 CM? That makes no sense. Extra 2 grains of powder cannot possibly account for the price difference.
I know right? Wrong caliber and still shot 1 hole groups using factory ammo.
Come to think of it, maybe a removable steel chamber insert is all it takes for the same gun to shoot all 6.5 calibers -- 6.5 CM, 260 Rem and 6.5x47. Shall we call it the "Tikka caliber conversion kit"? Okay if there is ever a patent on this, this message serves as evidence of "prior art".Multiple caliber system Tikka Rifle
In retrospect I certainly should've stopped after the first round. However I didn't know better. I had no trouble chambering it, and the impact was off by only 0.2 mil in elevation and windage from my existing scope zero. The only thing odd to me was the fired brass. Coming from gas guns I looked at it and thought -- do all bolt guns do this? The only other people at the range were some yahoos doing mag dumps with a 10/22 and it was a long drive for me to get to the range. On gas guns the calibers are always printed on the receiver usually in obnoxious color. I did not see one on the Tikka and did not think about double checking. Lesson learned for sure.
I didn't measure it but 1/2 MOA was the worst group of the 4 ammo I tried. The other 3 all shot jagged holes.
I don't see them mentioned much on the hide but have any of you all used a Boyds stock on your Tikkas? I've gotten to shoot a few CZ 455s with the Pro Varmint model stock and liked them. Their price point is also low enough that it'll let me tinker around with pillars, bedding, and painting without worrying about fubar'ing a high dollar stock.
6.5 CM ammo is manufactured in much higher volume than 260 Rem, thus creating an economy of scale.
I loaded my son's 6.5 Creedmoor ammo in my 260 CTR mag by mistake at a club PRS match. Couldn't chamber a round. It must have taken quite a bit of pressure to close the bolt on 6.5 ammo. We started using different ammo boxes after that match. I have since re-barreled to 6.5.
How many rounds did you shoot? How did you do with your match using 6.5 CM in 260 chamber?
