hey! I am new to the forum. Been planing to get into long range for a while now and just got my Tikka (CTR 6.5 24”). Shot it for the first time today and I am now addicted. Thanks for all the info from everyone on this forum. I need to make a few adjustments to the factory stock for cheek height then I’m good to go for now. I plan on shooting the factory stock for a while before upgrading. At the moment the KRG Bravo stock is speaking to me but time will tell.
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It shot great. Only had time to shoot 40 rounds. Shot 20 s&b 140 gr fmj to zero and break it in a bit. Once comfortable with the trigger it was just at 1moa (need to lighten it some). Then I shot 5 Rds each 140 gr Hornady eld-m, 130 gr federal gold medal burger, Hornady 143 gr precision hunter and Hornady 129 gr American white tail. All shot great but the burger was just under 1moa with 4 in one hole and one flyer.
Yeah, but you've got more powder and a whole lot more case not being supported by the chamber. Tikkas can take some serious abuse, I doubt there's anything wrong with it, but having a smith check it over and go through the process of checking for cracks in the metal is a whole lot cheaper than getting flown to a specialty hospital to get metal taken out of your eyes if the gun goes boom later down the line.
@JayB the cost difference is likely due to CM ammo outselling 260 by a large amount, it's called economies of scale. In an efficient system of production, the greater quantity you can produce and sell, you should be able to then reduce the cost per item when compared to a similar item at a lower quantity of production/sales.
The prime 260 is great. I've also been very, very impressed with the Hornady 260 with the 130 ELDM, I love 260 and all of my guns love that round!
@kepo
I had the same thought after getting my CTR out to shoot. A Triad Tactical stock pack did wonders to solve the problem.
https://www.triadtactical.com/All-Triad-Stock-Packs/
I’m using 35 in-lb on a factory plastic stock CTR per the list at the link below (scroll to Reply 12)
http://www.tikkashooters.com/public_html/gunsmithing/tikka-torque-settings/
Not sure if this has been mentioned before. I was looking for a bolt handle upgrade for the new Tikka T3x Tac A1 I got. I found Lumley Arm based in New York makes one with titanium bolt handle with a carbon fiber tactical knob for only $59. It just arrived and I put it on. The fit and finish are very nice and it feels very great in hand. Thought I would share this in case anyone else is looking for a replacement. I am not affiliated with these guys in any way.
Does anyone know of an aftermarket muzzle break for the Tikka T3x Tac A1? I was looking for a blast forward device similar to the Kaw Valley Precision one. https://www.kawvalleyprecision.com/KVP-Linear-Compensator-p/kvp-linear-blk.htm
On the facebook groups for t3x tac a1 people were talking about the area 419 hellfire brake. this brake can be removed without tool -- I think. so instead of a brake then a blast shield, if you went with this you'd just remove the brake when you dont want it.
Finished my build and my Sandman S cleared within the same week. Perfect timing.
- Bartlein Barrel in 6.5CM by LRI
- Manner's Carbon fiber stock
- YoDave Spring
- CDI bottom metal and inlet (awesome job)
- BRM-S with Podlock.
- Razor Gen II
- ARC M10 Ring's.
Stoked to put some round's through it.
- Bartlein Barrel in 6.5CM by LRI
- Manner's Carbon fiber stock
- YoDave Spring
- CDI bottom metal and inlet (awesome job)
- BRM-S with Podlock.
- Razor Gen II
- ARC M10 Ring's.
Stoked to put some round's through it.
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Finished my build and my Sandman S cleared within the same week. Perfect timing.
- Bartlein Barrel in 6.5CM by LRI
- Manner's Carbon fiber stock
- YoDave Spring
- CDI bottom metal and inlet (awesome job)
- BRM-S with Podlock.
- Razor Gen II
- ARC M10 Ring's.
Stoked to put some round's through it.
Damn... can’t see the pic while on mobile
Finally got to the range after installed my Sterk bolt handle and gen II shroud. Really impressed with the quality workmanship.
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I could not thinking going back to factory bolt handle ever again, Sterk swept is just so deam good.
Agreed! Like I've mentioned before, I am surprised that Tikka hasn't contracted out bolt handles from Sterk for some of their tactical rifles. The rake/sweep of his AI bolt handle (IMHO) is perfect for running that bolt, so that it feels like it's riding on glass.
I have the short 16" patrol barrel on the Tac A1. The reason I want the blast forward is with the night vision attached its very close the end of the barrel and I don't want to risk damaging it.
Agreed. The location of the ball makes it stupid fast to operate. Though I have yet to test them with thicker winter gloves on. I've been using a Lumley Arms Oversized Ti/Carbon Fiber bolt handle on my hunting rig for the cold Canadian winter. It comes out the side a little more than the Sterk so I suspect it might be a little easier to get under and operate in the winter.
So far I've only tried it on 5.56 and .300 blackout and the sound is pretty damn good. I'm really curious how .308 and 6.5 will sound. I have a K and S and my TBAC ultra 7 is about 4 months away. Curious to how they will differ.
Just fell into another TRG in 6.5. Would like to convert my Tikka 6.5 to a trainer in .223. In the Bravo stock its close enough to my TRG match gun to work. The barrel is easy but any idea if someone sells a 223 bolt for it?
Ouch- no kidding. Buying a barrel and bolt costs the same as just getting another Tikka in 223
These guys have about the best prices on T3 bolts and most of the time have them in stock.
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/s1411306
None of the 6.5 rounds would chamber in my 260. I don't know how the OP got the bolt closed on his rifle. It could be that the 6.5 ammo my son had was Prime brass fired in his RPR and only neck sized.
Being a self described "Tikka Freak" I'm drooling over this set up And living in the Wenatchee area I can honestly say that i'll be in contact with these folks on my next Tikka build.
308 built by Top Gun Custom Rifles in Spokane
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Nothing new but new to me and my first Tikka. Killing me that I have not shot it due to waiting on glass (Ares ETR)...
CTR 6.5 Creedmoor
Yo-Dave spring
KRG Bravo
419 Hellfire
Accurate double stack 6.5 mag, works great just running them through.
On a side note I got a good deal on the hellfire in .30 cal. Anybody shot both 6.5 and .30 on a 6.5. I know it should only be a drop of a few % but was curious on first hand experience.
CTR 6.5 Creedmoor
Yo-Dave spring
KRG Bravo
419 Hellfire
Accurate double stack 6.5 mag, works great just running them through.
On a side note I got a good deal on the hellfire in .30 cal. Anybody shot both 6.5 and .30 on a 6.5. I know it should only be a drop of a few % but was curious on first hand experience.
Finally got my Gen2 on my 6.5CM. Next up, J Allen should be here in a few weeks. Then the 223 is taking the 6.5CM place in the McMillan.
Finally got out to my range today (had to take a day off!) to shoot my new .223 Varmint at 100yds for the first time. It's all factory except for a YoDave trigger. I put an IOR 2.5-10 x42 MP8 on it.
Walked it in with some Remington 55gr AR ammo I had, and was getting 2-3" groups, and was a little worried. When I was ready to try it for real, I used Federal 77gr Sierra Matchking BTHP. First group of five was 0.6875" and the second was 0.625" (without one flyer it would have been 0.1875"). Everything I've read is true, these are great guns out of the box.
A couple of magazine questions -
1. Was getting feed failures with the factory magazine. Could this have been short stroking (I'm not used to bolt guns at all)?
2. What is the best magazine to get for a factory gun?
![IMG_E1216[1].JPG](https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/attachments/img_e1216-1-jpg.6931333/ "IMG_E1216[1].JPG")
Walked it in with some Remington 55gr AR ammo I had, and was getting 2-3" groups, and was a little worried. When I was ready to try it for real, I used Federal 77gr Sierra Matchking BTHP. First group of five was 0.6875" and the second was 0.625" (without one flyer it would have been 0.1875"). Everything I've read is true, these are great guns out of the box.
A couple of magazine questions -
1. Was getting feed failures with the factory magazine. Could this have been short stroking (I'm not used to bolt guns at all)?
2. What is the best magazine to get for a factory gun?
It certainly could be short stroking. Run the bolt hard, both ways. Don't baby it like some of the internet shooting videos people put out.
If it persists, time to check the gun and ammo out.
The best mag for your gun is the one you have. There really are no options, afaik, unless you go to a different stock or a chassis.
I've heard .223 Tikka owners complain about the magazine restricting COAL ? Could this have been an issue with the 77 gr bullets?
IMHO just run the bolt completely back. Don't go slamming it back,; there's no need, and it often takes a shooter off target (never mind breaking the bolt stop pin). There's a reason you see videos with shooters running the bolt back gently, keeping their head/cheek on the stock.
People who slam the bolt back are often the ones I have the most trouble with, when trying to break that habit. And they have to break that habit because they are timing out on a stage, spending all their time looking for the target after a shot breaks. Just run the bolt back fully, but not violently, while keeping you cheek weld in place. Pause at the rear of the stroke, find the target in the glass (which should still be there), and then, and only then, run the bolt forward to chamber a round. No sense in cooking a round in the chamber while you're searching for the target...
People who slam the bolt back are often the ones I have the most trouble with, when trying to break that habit. And they have to break that habit because they are timing out on a stage, spending all their time looking for the target after a shot breaks. Just run the bolt back fully, but not violently, while keeping you cheek weld in place. Pause at the rear of the stroke, find the target in the glass (which should still be there), and then, and only then, run the bolt forward to chamber a round. No sense in cooking a round in the chamber while you're searching for the target...
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My first personal Tikka, KRG W3 should be in Monday. I chambered it in 6 Creedmoor.
Dane’s 16.2” .300 BLK Tikka.
Dane’s 16.2” .300 BLK Tikka.
I caved to the Eurooptic additional discount offered on their T3 closeouts. Bought a floormodel Lite in .30-06. It will be an addition to the Sporter 6.5x55, Varmint .223 and "custom" 6.5x47. With a free backpack it was $373 shipped, can't hardly beat that.
What I'll do with it, I don't know yet. It's a good base though.,...love those Tikkas!
What I'll do with it, I don't know yet. It's a good base though.,...love those Tikkas!
Currently there are some cheap T3 long action rifles available.. I've considered picking one up with the plans to put it in a KRG chassis and put a short action caliber pre-fit barrel on it. I'll need a new bolt stop I believe. Anything else? I'd only be reusing the action and bolt. The barrel and stock would be discarded.
You don't even need to change out the bolt stop if you don't want too. But besides that, just the appropriate bolt face, you are good to go.
If anyone wants a Manners PRS1- SHORT ACTION MINI CHASSIS-ELITE TAC SWAMP MOLDED I would contact Manners as one just became available. You can shoot me a PM and I can give you the Stock# if you are interested. I had to back out of mine since I no longer have a Tikka.
Finally got mine together, now I just need some Federal 6 CM ammo.
