Both bolts were dirty and completely dry. It's just a bit weird that Tikka seems to advertise the teflon coating as an additional feature on the CTRs, and yet it seems to have the exact opposite effect. Anyway, 2 rifles is a really small sample size to draw any conclusions from.
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Anybody built a 6.5 PRC on a Tikka action? Looking at this option for a hunting build, 24"-26" Proof Research carbon fiber Sendero contour, short action Bravo chassis, and I'm guessing SSSF WSM mags of some kind. Looking for some intel on this setup before I pull the trigger on the build.
Spent some time breaking this in yesterday. I probably have close to 100rnds through it with both 140gr Hornady AG and, a baseline 41.6gr h4350 behind 139 scenars (smith recommended), giving me great results. I’ll work up a batch from 41-42 and also try some primers to get the SD down. But this was a very fun day, and man is that action smooth. My friend said that he doesn’t want to shoot his own rifle anymore after using mine.
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Not exactly the same but I’ve built 2 GAP 4S on Tikka actions. Assuming you’re wanting to build a short action, you will need either Alpha dssf (Type 4) 10-rounders or Accurate 7-round WSM mags (+419 extension gets you to 10). Both feed well in AICS chassis/bottom metals.
Regarding the PRC chamber, just be sure to determine which bullet you’ll want to shoot first and then chamber based on that. The current SAAMI .188 fb PRC chamber was designed specifically for Hornady 143/147 projectiles, or for SMK/Hybrid/VLDs to be fed from intermediate-long actions... which the Tikka technically is, however your LA chassis options are limited.
If you plan to shoot SMK/Hybrid/VLDs from a short action chassis/mag, then you’ll either want the early .130 fb PRC chamber or to go with a GAP 4S (.081 fb) instead. Otherwise, if you’re deadset on a PRC, you’ll basically have to shoot Hornady projectiles exclusively or take the chance that long-nosed bullets will shoot well with a ton of jump.
Thanks alot. I was planning on just running 143 ELDX factory ammo in it, but was not aware of those freebore numbers. Decisions, decisions..
My personal Tikka is about 150 to 170 FPS slower than my Savage 12 LRP. The Tikka has 120 rounds down the pipe vs. about 500+/- on the LRP.
Now, 50 FPS right off the bat is going to to be 26" barrel on the Savage vs. 24" barrel on the Tikka. That still has it 100 to 120 FPS slower looking at it as barrel vs. barrel.
I also noticed that the Tikka has a throat like a giraffe compared to the LRP. There's a llllooooonnnggg jump between the ogive and the rifling lead, Roy Weatherby would be jealous.
My best option right now is to live with the low speed until I get another barrel blank threaded & chambered to swap out
This is not directed at any person in particular but if you haven’t figured it out already, factory Tikka barrels are all slow compared to other barrels. Great accuracy, but slow.
Either live with it or go custom/prefit.
Either live with it or go custom/prefit.
I doubt the recoil lug will fit in the chassis either. I recommend calling or emailing Cadex, they got back to me in a couple hours by email and were also very responsive by phone.
You have to remove that sleeve it's not a lug it holds the foregrip of the Tac a1 in place
Yep, remove that TAC A1 chassis/rail holder.
That is NOT a recoil lug, since Tikka action does not have the lug, lug is in the chassis/stock.
If you would just take that collar off, that rail would sit the nicely.
But toooooo late now.
One thing you might need to do some dremeling is that TAC A1 trigger extra safety.
I could not fit it in to my MDT ESS chassis, but it fit nicely to KRG Bravo.
i did swap my TAC A1 to KRG Bravo.
That is NOT a recoil lug, since Tikka action does not have the lug, lug is in the chassis/stock.
If you would just take that collar off, that rail would sit the nicely.
But toooooo late now.
One thing you might need to do some dremeling is that TAC A1 trigger extra safety.
I could not fit it in to my MDT ESS chassis, but it fit nicely to KRG Bravo.
i did swap my TAC A1 to KRG Bravo.
I need some help...
I was putting my Tikka T3 in the Whsky 3 / G5.... I partially installed the action screws and all was going well - Mag seemed to fit well, but after final torque to 65# the mag feels a bit rough going in and doesn’t lock. Looking at it closer it almost look likes something broke on the mag release bar. Thoughts? Does the below pick look correct to you?
View attachment 7035341
I was putting my Tikka T3 in the Whsky 3 / G5.... I partially installed the action screws and all was going well - Mag seemed to fit well, but after final torque to 65# the mag feels a bit rough going in and doesn’t lock. Looking at it closer it almost look likes something broke on the mag release bar. Thoughts? Does the below pick look correct to you?
View attachment 7035341
Tikka .308 in a Manners T3
6.5x47 in Manners T5
6.5x47 in Manners T5
Have you tried loosening the forend screws and adjusting it back and forth to fit the magazine like it tells you in the manual ?
I have... going to revisit today.
Would someone be able to compate the pic mag release pic to theirs and confirm all looks correct? I hadn’t looked at it closely prior and the bar now looks short compared to the inlet it lays in
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Gents
Figured out my issue.... long story but “Mag ride height”
Thanks for the thoughts
Granted I have only used H4350 so far (about 80 rounds down the tube with the tac a1) im getting about 2550 with 40.6gr. Book shows max load of 40.9gr @ 2650fps. Would like to be in the 2700+ preferably, but maybe with another powder or hotter load.
Anyone using different powder to get better speeds with the 24" in 6.5??
I don't know why the Tikka barrels are slow. I was a little skeptical. But my new 26" Krieger is now 90 fps faster than the factory barrel. The Krieger has 130 rounds thru it. Interesting in that I started development from scratch, ladder test, group test and ended up with the exact load. 147 ELDM, 41.5 GR H4350, Lapua case, BR4. Velocity is consistent at 2747, SD from 1.5 to 6.1. Groups .29 to .48.
Started working up a load for my latest Tikka. The rifle started as a T3 Lite 270 that I picked up from Euro Optics on close out. It has a 26" lite varmint Bartlein 1-7" barrel that was profiled, chambered in 22BR, and threaded by D2 Precision. I bought a lot of the parts for this build used here on the Hide as I was trying to keep the cost down.
I shot 20 rounds Friday evening as the weather was supposed to turn bad on Saturday. I am using H4895, Lapua brass, Tula primers, and 88gr ELDM bullets.
I shot five each at 26.8, 27.1, 27.4, and 27.7, all .020" off the lands.
26.8 averaged 3004 fps and had a SD of 3. Started showing some ejector marks on one of the 27.4 and all of the 27.7 loads.
First 5 shots, fired suppressed.
Not spectacular, but I was rushing as it was getting dark.
Loaded up 50 or so more so I could shoot a ladder around the 26.8 load on Saturday. I also loaded 15 pulled bullets at 26.8 to use as sighters and to make sure I was on clean paper for a ladder. They were in rough shape as I didn't have the VLD stem for my dies when I loaded these. The collet puller mangled them too.
I shot 5 each of 26.7, 26.8, 26.9, and 27.0 with a brake and the Magneto Speed at 100 yards. Mirage was terrible and it was sunny and 33 degrees, so my 1" dots were dancing 1/4-1/2 mil thru the scope.
I put on a clean sheet of paper with two 3" dots and walked the target out to 402 yards. I dialed for elevation and fired 3 shots. Clouds had rolled in and wind was from my 8:00 at 8-13 mph. It looked like I hit the 3" dot, so I dialed .5 mil left and fired 3 more. Saw holes so I moved to the lower dot and fired my sharpie colored ladder. I was surprised when I went to retrieve my target.
I think I found my load, just need to mangle some more bullets so they shoot this good every time! If I had seen the two 3 shot groups, I wouldn't have shot the ladder. Also figured out to not use red and purple on the same ladder. Too hard to tell apart. The 26.8 load had 1.23" vertical at 402 yards on the ladder.
I used a .223 MDT mag on friday and single loaded. Two 12 round metal MDT mags with binder plates showed up Saturday, so I put a modified Primal Rights kit in one and used it. I can fit 13 rounds in it. The rifle weighs 18lbs 8oz with a full mag, the brake, and the bipod.
I shot 20 rounds Friday evening as the weather was supposed to turn bad on Saturday. I am using H4895, Lapua brass, Tula primers, and 88gr ELDM bullets.
I shot five each at 26.8, 27.1, 27.4, and 27.7, all .020" off the lands.
26.8 averaged 3004 fps and had a SD of 3. Started showing some ejector marks on one of the 27.4 and all of the 27.7 loads.
First 5 shots, fired suppressed.
Not spectacular, but I was rushing as it was getting dark.
Loaded up 50 or so more so I could shoot a ladder around the 26.8 load on Saturday. I also loaded 15 pulled bullets at 26.8 to use as sighters and to make sure I was on clean paper for a ladder. They were in rough shape as I didn't have the VLD stem for my dies when I loaded these. The collet puller mangled them too.
I shot 5 each of 26.7, 26.8, 26.9, and 27.0 with a brake and the Magneto Speed at 100 yards. Mirage was terrible and it was sunny and 33 degrees, so my 1" dots were dancing 1/4-1/2 mil thru the scope.
I put on a clean sheet of paper with two 3" dots and walked the target out to 402 yards. I dialed for elevation and fired 3 shots. Clouds had rolled in and wind was from my 8:00 at 8-13 mph. It looked like I hit the 3" dot, so I dialed .5 mil left and fired 3 more. Saw holes so I moved to the lower dot and fired my sharpie colored ladder. I was surprised when I went to retrieve my target.
I think I found my load, just need to mangle some more bullets so they shoot this good every time! If I had seen the two 3 shot groups, I wouldn't have shot the ladder. Also figured out to not use red and purple on the same ladder. Too hard to tell apart. The 26.8 load had 1.23" vertical at 402 yards on the ladder.
I used a .223 MDT mag on friday and single loaded. Two 12 round metal MDT mags with binder plates showed up Saturday, so I put a modified Primal Rights kit in one and used it. I can fit 13 rounds in it. The rifle weighs 18lbs 8oz with a full mag, the brake, and the bipod.
Nice rig.
Have you done those alloy lop spacers to your X-ray?
I will receive this same colored X-ray maybe next week.
Was thinking to try to make tool-less buttbad kit with Bravo plate, because you can do it
Look better than the X-ray model, and you are able to tighten that adjustment wheel tighter, when the mechanism is closer to you fingers, since i need to use all the lop kit spacers to my rifle.
Like is did in to my Bravo.
This is not how the factory uses that the tbhm kit.
I might be firts one who uses it like i do.
Nice rig.
Have you done those alloy lop spacers to your X-ray?
I will receive this same colored X-ray maybe next week.
Was thinking to try to make tool-less buttbad kit with Bravo plate, because you can do it
Look better than the X-ray model, and you are able to tighten that adjustment wheel tighter, when the mechanism is closer to you fingers, since i need to use all the lop kit spacers to my rifle.
Like is did in to my Bravo.
This is not how the factory uses that the tbhm kit.
I might be firts one who uses it like i do.
The spacers are stainless steel that I bought here used on the Hide. They are made by Scott Whitehead who owns Best Targets. I picked up the X-Ray used here also. Needed more weight on the butt end as the barrel was so heavy. This is going to be a comp only rifle, so I was shooting for 18-20 lbs all in. I still might add some weight to the front to help balance it out more.
I was originally going to go with a Bravo and add weight inside the butt area and forend as needed, but the used X-Ray was cheaper. Eventually I want a GGS Raptor.
Prometheus arms out of Burleson in north Texas. Does great work and has built two tikkas for me. Justine is his name.
I am waiting for the reply or for the explanation of switching to other after market stocks. Granted the OEM stock is a little heavy but I am surprised how many are discarding it for something else.
My Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56 EBR-7C MRAD is coming in tomorrow and will be going on my brand spanking new TAC A1 in 6.5CM.
Need your help before my first trip to the range. What factory load ammo has worked best for you in the Tikka? I’m new to precision shooting and appreciate all your help. Did read a few off Tikka forums on loads and the typical montra is paractice with best you can afford...
Hornady 140 ELD come up quite a bit.
Need your help before my first trip to the range. What factory load ammo has worked best for you in the Tikka? I’m new to precision shooting and appreciate all your help. Did read a few off Tikka forums on loads and the typical montra is paractice with best you can afford...
Hornady 140 ELD come up quite a bit.
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Tikka 260rem works like a Swiss clock with Lapua 123 and 140gr Scenar.
6.5CR has same barrel twist as it is in 260rem, so i could think that those same bullets would work great in creedmoor too.
6.5CR has same barrel twist as it is in 260rem, so i could think that those same bullets would work great in creedmoor too.
Ok, i thought they would be alloy.
Good point to make those from ss, make some extra weight on the rear of the chassis.
Has anyone here slugged the barrel of their 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka? Just curious as to what you found the bore size is. I'm wondering if the reason Tikka barrels are generally somewhat slower than others is due to a slightly oversized bore.
I can slug the bore of my own barrel, but just wanted to see if anyone else has already done it before.
Thanks.
I can slug the bore of my own barrel, but just wanted to see if anyone else has already done it before.
Thanks.
So is it the barrel twist that drives the 140gr ammo? I just read this quote all the time “my X rifle loves Y ammo”. Trying to educate my self what drives it.
Has anyone ever got their action and bolt NP3 coated if so how was the bolt lift after it was coated
They are totally different, and it really comes down to purpose of the rifle and personal preference. The Bravo is a light weight more traditional type stock, and the Tac A1 chassis is, well, a chassis. Some may prefer the Bravo for something like hunting and the chassis for precision shooting, some may prefer the opposite, some may prefer the chassis for both, some may prefer the traditional style stock for both, and so on and so forth. It comes down to what works for you for your intended purpose. Now, I would argue, and I think others would as well, if you like the Tac A1 chassis, get a Tac A1, but if you like any other chassis or stock, don’t get an A1, instead get a CTR (or whatever other Tikka you want) and customize it however you want. Not to say people dont buy an A1 then decide to go with a different stock. I mean, you could always swap out the Tac A1 chassis, but it’s a waste of money up front if you know that’s what you plan to do.
Now some specific differences I can think of, A1 is all aluminum, is heavier, uses proprietary CTR/TRG magazines, accepts Ar15 grips and (maybe) buttstocks, the KRG is lighter, utilizes aluminum and polymer, has a more traditional style / grip, accepts industry standard AICS magazines, and has various accessories also by KRG to customize it to your liking.
I don’t know if that many are discarding the A1, I would think those who wanted the A1 mostly keep it how it is, and those who don’t like the A1 buy a CTR or other Tikka and build what they want. The main issue I’ve read with the A1 is the magazine system, but I’ve also read a lot from people who prefer the CTR/TEG style magazines. So like I said before, it really just comes down to intended purpose and personal preference.
Barrel twist decide that bullet weight you can use, or what works best for the barrel that has spesific twist.
Like in 223rem, 12" for light and 1/8-1/7 fr heavy bullets.
In factory barrels for 6.5mm bullets, 1/8 is a standard, and it will work nicely almost every bullet you may find in 6.5mm caliber.
What drives that bullet out of the barrel is gunpowder, there are a lot of different buring ratio powders, but normally
checking the reload data of the powerder manufacturer, you cn choose the spesific powder.
I use only Vihtavuori powders, and 123gr Scenar N150 is awesome juice and 140gr Scenar i use only N160.
I do not know what powder you are going to use, but normally you find reload manual on theyr netsites.
Like Vihtavuori.
Rifle reloading data | Handloading | Rifle calibers | Centerfire Rifle bullets | Reload your own ammo - Vihtavuori
Vihtavuori offers rifle reloading data for numerous calibers and bullets for match and hunting purposes. Never exceed maximum loads.
www.vihtavuori.com
Take Aim at Rifle Reloading Data | Hodgdon Reloading
Find what you need in four easy steps. Select your cartridge type from the drop-down list. Then select your bullet weight, powder manufacturer and powder type. If you're unsure, or just want options, check as many boxes as you'd like. Click "Get Data" to view results.
The A1 will allow you to use AR15 stocks, but you need a short stock. The Magpul PRS stock is to long for a A1 stock swap.
For those with the TAC A1, have you noticed any flex in the handguard such as when loading the bipod?
Or get this hand guard with the bipod built in.
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I hear a lot of people are shooting the hornady 140 eld match ammo off the shelf. But from what I've read the tac a1 shoots a variety of ammo very well. I reload for my tac a1 witch is the best possible route, obviously. I'm getting groups well under .5 MOA @100 using the 140gr eld match bullets. You shouldn't have too much trouble tacking nails with that gun its by far the best gun I've ever shot hands down! You'll love it.
