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It's true, but not hard to overcome either as noted above. It's pretty easy to get Tikkas for bargain basement prices from a number of vendors (Eurooptic, Bud's, Grabagun, Whittakers, to name a few) and they show up in the EE. The stocks can usually be sold for a few bucks, but even if you threw it in the trash you'd still be ahead of the game compared to buying some cut rate action that needs to be "trued" and all the other requisite parts.
-Stooxie
Here’s the link to my Tac A1 issues using the KRG Bravo. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/krg-bravo-chassis.6593960/page-17#post-7701058
Of course I read this as I'm thinking about what to have for lunch.... That looked tasty AF.
Good day for a family portrait. 6creed on top, 223 in the middle and 22LR on the bottom.
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Thats awesome...What did ya do to get the T1X into the JA Allen? Is it a dedicated chassis or you have some space system to convert AICS mag well to accept T1X mags?
How hot is too hot?
I’m curious to hear the consensus on hot a Tikka barrel can get before damage. When I take mine to the range for practice - it’s quite warm to the touch after a few strings of fire. Too hot? Just looking for a better quantification of when to stop to avoid the possibility of damage
Thoughts?
I’m curious to hear the consensus on hot a Tikka barrel can get before damage. When I take mine to the range for practice - it’s quite warm to the touch after a few strings of fire. Too hot? Just looking for a better quantification of when to stop to avoid the possibility of damage
Thoughts?
Not really Tikka related, but if the barrel is too hot to hold in your hand, it's too hot.
The T1X dropped right in. The only difference is the location of the pin holding the bolt stop/release in on the T1X. The J Allen has a set screw securing the pin from backing out on the standard T3 action, but there isn't anything to support it in the T1X so you have to keep an eye on it or loctite it into place. I didn't have to do anything to the mag well for the mags, you can still access the mag release that comes with the T1X.
On my T3x Lite 7mm RemMag, if she's too warm, she starts throwing rounds to the right. That only happens if I do sustained fire for 10+ rounds at 1 every 6-8 seconds. I fired probably close to 200 rounds last week over the course of 4 different days. Learned a lot about my new girl.
But, as stated above, if you can't hold the barrel in your hand for 3-5 seconds, time to cool off for a few minutes.
Not sure if I've asked already, but can you recall what the color of your barreled action is? Is it Cerakote? I'd like to replicate the color cause it looks badass.
Finally "done" after pretty much a month of dicking around trying to get my factory Lite barrel off, and my new one set up. New one is a 24" SS 6.5CM McGowen, 8" twist in roughly medium Palma, but at 1.20" at the chamber instead of 1.25" to fit under the magnum Bugnut.
Ended up having 0.075" milled off the action face and the Bugnut, which came out just about dead on the diameters, and got the action done in Elite Smoke Cerakote.
Ended up having 0.075" milled off the action face and the Bugnut, which came out just about dead on the diameters, and got the action done in Elite Smoke Cerakote.
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Any Tikka T3 and Tikka CTR owners in the house? That are also shade tree gunsmiths?
I have some Tikka stock work that I'd like done, and I just simply don't have the tools or time right now.
Would love to find someone handy with barrel channel work that also has Tikka experience and owns a Tikka in house.
I have some Tikka stock work that I'd like done, and I just simply don't have the tools or time right now.
Would love to find someone handy with barrel channel work that also has Tikka experience and owns a Tikka in house.
Good to see that someone has a TAC A1 20 moa rail available now.
Not sure if anyone else has seen, but Chad @ LRI developed a cool spacer kit to allow us to run SA cartridges in LA MDT mags. No more nose diving on the PRC/SAUM cartridges and longer OAL than a SA! Nice.
Some pictures of my 3 Tikkas at a local Pro-Am match from Saturday. My son shot my 6.5 CTR in his GGS Raptor, I loaned my 223 varmint to a new shooter, and I shot my 22BR. We had south, then west, then northwest winds from 8-24mph throughout the day. I shot like an amateur for 4 of the first 5 stages, then did good on two before I had to leave early. I overestimated the wind on most of the stages that I struggled on. I would have been better off shooting with a brake with all of the positional stages we had. My son was 10th in the Am division. He shot that rifle for the first time that morning before the shoot. I don't think I ever want to load 360 rounds for 3 different rifles in a week again.
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Update when you wring out that McGowen and see how it performs.
I'm eyeballing them in my top 3 choices once I shoot out my Lite barrel.
Will do... I wasn't expecting it back from the Cerakote guy so quick (just dropped off the middle of last week) and my ammo won't be here til Friday... I'm off work today and the urge to go buy a couple boxes locally and take it out was strong.
I ordered the barrel the end of January and it showed up the beginning of April, not bad for custom. I don't know how some of you folk wait 6-12 months for stuff. Once I pull the trigger, my patience is kinda low.
Hoping to get some advice on my Tikka.
It’s a Tikka T3 chambered in 223 with a 23” Bartlein 1:7.5 twist heavy Palma barrel, fitted by a reputable smith. Barreled action has been cerakoted and sits in a KRG Whiskey 3 Gen 6 chassis. Vortex Razor HD Gen 2 4.5-27x56 scope in Spuhr 4701 mount.
I noticed it often prints a double group. For example, fire 5 shots at 100m, puts 3 in one ragged hole and then the other two in another group (say 0.5” to 1” away), or produces one flyer. It could well be my shooting.
I also noticed that the zero moved a bit over the last couple of range sessions (one time by a few inches) which confuses me.
I suspect that it could be the scope mount, but the Spuhr seems pretty foolproof and has been torqued correctly.
My other thought was it could be how the action is installed in the chassis (I didn’t have the right size bit for my torque wrench when I installed it). Just pulled the action from the chassis. Judging from the wear on the cerakote in the recoil lug slot on the bottom of the action, the bottom of the action is actually riding on top of the recoil lug at the edges.
I believe it shouldn’t be like this - the recoil lug should only make contact on the front and rear not the top. Can someone confirm this?
(Updated to add: the action is also making contact with the V block along the sides, so it isn’t sitting really high or anything)
Here’s some photos...
And if this is indeed a problem, what’s the best way to fix it? I’m contemplating filing down the top of the KRG recoil lug a little.
I measure the recoil lug as sticking up 4.73mm from the aluminium V channel in the KRG chassis.
Would appreciate any advice.
It’s a Tikka T3 chambered in 223 with a 23” Bartlein 1:7.5 twist heavy Palma barrel, fitted by a reputable smith. Barreled action has been cerakoted and sits in a KRG Whiskey 3 Gen 6 chassis. Vortex Razor HD Gen 2 4.5-27x56 scope in Spuhr 4701 mount.
I noticed it often prints a double group. For example, fire 5 shots at 100m, puts 3 in one ragged hole and then the other two in another group (say 0.5” to 1” away), or produces one flyer. It could well be my shooting.
I also noticed that the zero moved a bit over the last couple of range sessions (one time by a few inches) which confuses me.
I suspect that it could be the scope mount, but the Spuhr seems pretty foolproof and has been torqued correctly.
My other thought was it could be how the action is installed in the chassis (I didn’t have the right size bit for my torque wrench when I installed it). Just pulled the action from the chassis. Judging from the wear on the cerakote in the recoil lug slot on the bottom of the action, the bottom of the action is actually riding on top of the recoil lug at the edges.
I believe it shouldn’t be like this - the recoil lug should only make contact on the front and rear not the top. Can someone confirm this?
(Updated to add: the action is also making contact with the V block along the sides, so it isn’t sitting really high or anything)
Here’s some photos...
And if this is indeed a problem, what’s the best way to fix it? I’m contemplating filing down the top of the KRG recoil lug a little.
I measure the recoil lug as sticking up 4.73mm from the aluminium V channel in the KRG chassis.
Would appreciate any advice.
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Should be a 5mm hex bit, if your chassis is anything like my LSS-XL, you need either a medium or long bit to get at the rear screw. I bought a regular Carlyle 1/4" drive from Napa and it's just the right length- they're longer than most.
I'd start by torquing it up right... bit is like $6.
I'd start by torquing it up right... bit is like $6.
Not to point out the obvious but (My other thought was it could be how the action is installed in the chassis (I didn’t have the right size bit for my torque wrench when I installed it) thats your huge issue right there. I wouldn't do any bit of filing or monkeying around till you properly torque your action (65inlbs) into the chassis and take it back out to the range. KRG sells the correct bit you need, its like $6.
What is yoyr load/bullet combination? Are you shooting the Nosler RDF (random damn flyer)?
Good point! I will torque the action to 65 in lbs and see how that goes first. Thanks.
Using the Hornady 75gr ELD-M & AR2206H.
A question for all that have been there done that.
I traded a forum member for a Tikka T3 awhile back and shortly after I had it I opened the bolt and the plastic shroud just fell off in two pieces.
No big deal since I would have replaced it anyway but curious what shroud others would recommend for a replacement.
The mountain tactical looks like a nice shroud and well made but have no experience with any of their parts.
I traded a forum member for a Tikka T3 awhile back and shortly after I had it I opened the bolt and the plastic shroud just fell off in two pieces.
No big deal since I would have replaced it anyway but curious what shroud others would recommend for a replacement.
The mountain tactical looks like a nice shroud and well made but have no experience with any of their parts.
I have a Mountain Tactical shroud, and I like it. It’s nicely done.
You can get an OEM aluminum one from Beretta (like what they are putting on the T3x now) also, but the MT is better.
Sterk does pretty ones. He is @cannoncrossfire on here. He also does bolt handles. Don't have any of his stuff but I would.
My only Tikka. T3x .243win
McMillan Sako Hunter Edge
Area419 rail
Badger rings
SWFA 6x42 mrad
Shoots cheap Federal 100gr soft points into a tiny hole. I just swapped to the 6x from a VX3i and I love the added FOV, reticle, and turrets on a hunting rifle.
McMillan Sako Hunter Edge
Area419 rail
Badger rings
SWFA 6x42 mrad
Shoots cheap Federal 100gr soft points into a tiny hole. I just swapped to the 6x from a VX3i and I love the added FOV, reticle, and turrets on a hunting rifle.
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For hunting, Winchester Deer Season XP. Marvelous round. Federal Fusion 150gr. I'd love to try some Barnes Vor-TX 130gr but it's crazy expensive. Hornady Superformance works great as well.
-Stooxie
Thanks for the heads up, I have been looking at all of them since this morning.
I ended up ordering the MT Gen III shroud and one of thier shroud and bolt handle tools mainly because I'm a tool whore but it will get used I'm sure.
Still keeping the rifle in its sporter config with walnut stock so don't need a bolt handle yet but when I do strip and rebuild it into more of a varmint target rifle the swept sterk handle will ball knob will be my choice.
Im thinking about switching from Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor factory ammo to Berger factory, which i think is small rifle primer. Is anyone having issues out of a factory Tikka bolt with shooting SRPs with a large pin?
Not that it's my first Tikka, but I just bought "the wife" a tac a1 in 6.5 creed. As soon as the scope mount gets here we are going to break it in and see how she likes it. Really thing I prefer the original tikka trigger to the two stage though.
Have you backed down the trigger set screw on the Tac A1? I’m avg 1.5 lbs of trigger pull on my Lyman, and it’s fantastic. Some people are getting down to a pound.
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