Nightforce has also has some quality ones for a lil cheaper. Get the tall ones if you plan on using flip up caps on the front...... and to be able to unscrew the sun shield. (ask me how I know)
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Check out this site:
Mil-Rad: Long Range Precision Marksmanship
Also, 20MOA rings are hard to find, maybe you meant mount? Anyway, this website has useful information for your question.
I did a little research for your scope and 20moa cant, you would need at least 1.4" or 35mm high mount. If you plan on using the sunshade, then make it 1.5" or 38mm. Hope thsi help.
To add to that: vortex has multiple lines of rings, the vortex “precision matched” series specifically is made by seekins and Essentially the same as their seekins branded rings.
Hawkins Precision makes rings that mount direct to Tikka (no rail) with cant built in. Cant varies with ring size, sounds like 25 MOA with 30mm/34mm.
I opted for a 20 MOA rail from area 419 (theirs is made from 7075 aluminum, most others are 6061, and theirs has the tikka recoil lug, not that you really need it). and seekins rings. In that combo high (1”) will definitely work and low (0.92”) might barely work for a 56mm objective.
rail plus rings combo is a little more future proof since the rings wouldn’t be proprietary to the tikka receiver.
I opted for a 20 MOA rail from area 419 (theirs is made from 7075 aluminum, most others are 6061, and theirs has the tikka recoil lug, not that you really need it). and seekins rings. In that combo high (1”) will definitely work and low (0.92”) might barely work for a 56mm objective.
rail plus rings combo is a little more future proof since the rings wouldn’t be proprietary to the tikka receiver.
Thanks for your response...Rings are indeed hard to find but I wanted rings to help with the eye relief. I ordered some Burris rings thta have adjustobale MOA cant. I ordered 1.5" highCheck out this site:
Mil-Rad: Long Range Precision Marksmanship
www.mil-rad.com
Also, 20MOA rings are hard to find, maybe you meant mount? Anyway, this website has useful information for your question.
I did a little research for your scope and 20moa cant, you would need at least 1.4" or 35mm high mount. If you plan on using the sunshade, then make it 1.5" or 38mm. Hope thsi help.
'
Ok. But just curious, how does rings better help with eye relief? I thought you can move the mount along the pic rail to a position that offer best eye relief and then fine tune with sliding the scope in the mount. Let me know. Thanks.
I used some premium paint and epoxy remover. Rubbed it around with a qtip let it sit for about 1 min and it wiped off no problems
Still waiting on a 7mm blank but here it is with an 18” 300 WSM factory barrel installed.
Would guess somewhere between a regular stock and a Bravo. But not a lot of reviews yet. Could be about same as a Bravo. $2-350
What's the magnification on that NF? What weight bullets do you use and what kind of velocity?
I've just bought a Fierce Fury and had LRI chop the barrel to 21" for my shorty suppressor. I've topped it with T5Xi 3-15, but will need to build up my cheek rest
I had a Vortex 34mm mount on my Tac A1 for a Nightforce 56mm, sent you a PM
I have a new tikka 300 wsm Im trying to figure out if want to get a proof 300 wsm barrel for it or 6.5 prc. I will be dropping it in a Bravo. I have a 6.5 cm ctr in a bravo that I posted a thread back so I want to keep that same setup. Just cant decide which barrel 6.5 prc or 300 wsm....Any advice?
4-32, I picked up some Hornady 200gr ELDX factory ammo to try. I probably won’t shoot this in 300 form much. I’m just waiting on a blank for 7 Max.
Looks like the new for 2020 Roughtech T3 I ordered is on its way to my FFL now so I should have it in hand next week. (Tikka T3 JRTXRT316 T3x Lite 308 Win 3+1 22.40" Tan w/Black Spider Webbing Roughtech Stock)
if anybody is interested in any particular measurements/dimensions let me know.
im most interested in their new “D18” barrel contour so I’ll definitely post some dimensions on that.
if anybody is interested in any particular measurements/dimensions let me know.
im most interested in their new “D18” barrel contour so I’ll definitely post some dimensions on that.
im looking at sponge application of some spray paint on mine. I’ve never done camo paint myself, any suggestions?
I have done sponge. It’s easy. Can replicate many of the manners type camo that way.
Currently looking for some digicam cutouts to try my take on the TRG 22 anniversary.
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Trying to decide on an aics bottom metal for my T3x. I've found atlasworxs and redsnake tactical. Anyone have recommendations on a certain brand? Thanks!
If we’re talking for a T3X Lite, RedSnake uses the factory inlet, but can only use the AI single-stack 5 rounder. Atlasworx lets you use 10 rounders, but the stock inlet has to be widened and deepened. I couldn’t decide and bought both. Ended up going with RedSnake and leaving the stock alone.
Long or short action? If it’s short, I might consider having McMillan inlet the stock for CTR bottom metal, and be able to run the Mountain Tactical or Atlasworx CTR AICS bottom metal without a custom inlet.
Yes it's a short action. I was wondering about that. Is the t3x and ctr action the same footprint?
The action is common. The bottom metal is not. Hence the footprint is the same for the action part but not the bottom metal part. Ctr bottom metal is a little wider. Make sense?
I put this together awhile ago but have tried to keep it updated as well.
Tikka T3 Thread
Now that you say that, I do remember seeing a guy running the 6.5 saum in slightly modified CTR mags. I believe he was getting 6 rounds in it. Here are some pics of factory 6.5 PRC at 2.95 in a MDT without the binder and also the CTR. It's close but fits so with the shorter coal of 7 saum,6.5...
www.snipershide.com
So the 419 rail is a better option? I was looking at mountain tac and 419 and couldn't make up my mind
I like the Walkers bottom metals for T3X. Not sure if he does a CTR also. But to be honest I like the stock CTR mag and bottom metal.
If you want stronger (not that it's NEEDED) Murphy precision makes rails out of stainless for $125 or titanium for $190.
I have a stainless mountain tactical rail from a couple years ago. Not sure why they stopped making them. It’s a nice unit.
The action is common. The bottom metal is not. Hence the footprint is the same for the action part but not the bottom metal part. Ctr bottom metal is a little wider. Make sense?
I put this together awhile ago but have tried to keep it updated as well.
Tikka T3 Thread
Now that you say that, I do remember seeing a guy running the 6.5 saum in slightly modified CTR mags. I believe he was getting 6 rounds in it. Here are some pics of factory 6.5 PRC at 2.95 in a MDT without the binder and also the CTR. It's close but fits so with the shorter coal of 7 saum,6.5...
That makes sense. If I have McMillan inlet for a ctr dbm, then I have to use a dbm that is the same dimensions.
I have 3 German Gun Stocks that I ordered for the CTR inlet and I have two of the Mountain Tactical bottom metal for AICS magazines. I run the CTR bottom metal in one. Have whatever stock you buy inlet for the CTR bottom metal and that will give you more options. MT and Atlasworks both make the CTR inlet for AICS magazines. I have one CTR and two T3 action based builds, they are all interchangeable as far as footprint.
First picture is a 223 T3 Varmint with MT AICS/CTR
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I think both have a good reputation.
mountain tactical is 6061 and $60
area 419 is 7075 and $80
then there’s titanium/steel. Both will be more expensive. steel is substantially heavier Than aluminum.
number 1 is precision, ie are they uniform and truly 20 MOA or whatever they say.
I think all these are pretty reputable options in that regard.
then it comes down to price, weight, durability.
for me the area 419 was the sweet spot (7075 aluminum is something like 50% stronger/more durable than 6061 at the same weight... it’s the premium aluminum of choice in the firearms world). i don’t hear anyone complaining about the mountsin tactical though, so maybe even that is overkill. But for $80 vs $60 why not. Since I was going to use seekins rings and they’re made out of 7075 that was another reason.
I think I'm going with the mountain tac unless I can find a 419 used for a steal.
Come to visit me in Joensuu
Just finished this beauty, so i would like to hear what do you think of it
Tikka T3X CTR 260rem.
KRG Whiskey gen III
Spuhr
Vortex Razor HD2
BT bipod
MDT Elite brake
Barrel spiral flutend and custom cerakoted.
View attachment 7261492
viking78,
First, amazing-looking rifle! I'm thinking one day I just may upgrade my Tikka CTR to a Whiskey 3.
I have a Vortex Razor HD Gen2 4.5-27 (Mrad, of course...) on order. I want to mount it in a Spuhr, but not sure what height to order. Which Spuhr do you have your Razor in?
Thanks.
Those are some nice looking stocks. I looked them up after seeing one of your pictures from the coyote hunting thread. Im thinking about going with a McMillan game warden, since they are a few hundred bucks cheaper than the ggs.
It helps with eye relief by allowing adjustment of the distance between the rings and hopefully allowing me to move the scope back a bit more.
I think you could go with the same model i have, since i had Kahles K624i scope on that mount, and that Kahles had 56mm object on that scope, so get SP-4301 it has 6 MIL cant, about 20 MOA.
That Harvester 300 is rated for a 20" barrel on magnum calibers.
With that said you might not ever have a problem with yours and all I can do is tell you about my experience.
I had a 18" barrel in 6.5 PRC that I was going to use hunting so spun it on not really thinking that 2" would make a difference.
Went to the range and after multiple shots my hits started going all over the place and I thought my scope was crapping out on me.
Picked my rifle up off the bench and it sounded like rocks rattling in a tin can so I unscrewed the thread adapter and about a half dozen pieces of baffle came falling out including the first baffle which had multiple bullet strikes which had evidently caused other strikes on down the can.
It knocked out pieces of the baffles the whole length inside including some hits on the anchor brake.
I'm lucky that the case stayed intact and didn't blow out the sides or it could have done some serious injury.
I called SiCo and they were great about the whole thing and since there was no damage to the outer case they were able to refurbish the whole can with all new baffles,brake and all free of charge including shipping both ways.
I had shot hundreds of rounds through my can on my 24" barrel with no problems and continue to do so now.
So was it the 18" barrel that caused it or just a fluke ?
Who the fuck knows but I won't push my luck again LOL !!!
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I know. I thought about it before I did it. I won’t shoot the harvester much outside of hunting. It’s loud. I don’t care for it. I got lots of options for suppressors in the safe. This one is threaded 9/16 and I was too lazy to grab an adapter to 5/8 from the shop.
So I decided...
So I decided...
Has anyone had smith work done to their factory t3x barrel to bring the throat a bit closer to head space? Because when shooting Berger 210 vlds 300 win mag .010 off the lands theres no way to run them in any of the bottom metals from the few company's the make them. Atlaswrox provides a max COAl of 3.600 aics mag 3.715. tikkas have looooooooooooong throats
I have and shoot a bunch of cans. It seems loud to me. And it gets hot too fast.
