Rifle Scopes Tips for eliminating parallax?

[Time2Hunt]

While i'm by no means new to shooting, in the last few years i've broadened my interest and research into the more detailed aspects of the sport...equipment and the function of what's actually going on durring the shot have taken on a whole new role into my thought process. This can be a blessing and burden of course but i think the rewards and knowledge have added a lot to my learning curve.

I've grown up doing a lot shooting and hunting but even with the great amount of outside instruction, most of hands-on improvements come through my own trial and error experience (with a ton of reading/listening to others as a part of it)... But that is exactly why i could use some advice from others on this matter.

None of my optics of cheap but then again a good $500 scope to me, probably wouldn't be considered even close to adequate by professionals and serious benchrest shooters.

What i'm wondering is what are your steps to ensure that parallax is taken out of the equation(as much as possible)?

While i've been trying to read up on and considering this for awhile...there are two rifles/scopes that have made me want to take a serious look at and seek advice for this question...

First, a Millet TRS-1 that i got for the eventually purchase of my range gun(rem700sps-t .308 that i now have) which i mounted on a .270 for deer season last fall. Not an overly expensive scope in the scheme of things, but lots of options and i thought a good starter.

I was at the range sighting it in on a lead-sled before deer season and everthing went fine...had it dialed in at 2 1/2" high at 100. Afterwards though, i put it on a bag for a few shots and my 2 1/2" high group turned into close to 5" high!! ...because of the tendency to not position yourself normally durring the shot i don't like to use the sled anymore at all.

Second, i have a S&W M&P 15-22(.22LR) with a decent simmons 2.8-12 on it. Because of the zero drop AR stock, i had to get extra high rings for it and have not been happy with the off-bore sight axis POA for the .22 trajectory... But back to the point, tonight when shooting at 70 yds with CCI Green Tag, i noticed that i would shoot one 5 shot group fine...reload, and then my next group in sometimes was close to an inch higher/lower...and i was shooting 1-2" groups so it was very noticeable. This is the affect of parallax correct? (i can see the cross hairs move up and down when moving my head) It seemed that i had to have my eye very close to the scope to eliminate this.

Anyways just wanted to explain 2 of the instances that have me wanting to seek advice on the question...

I know the quality of the scope plays a large part in this, but am interested and seeing what tips/advice you guys of for eliminating the parallax when you shoot! ...As well as how you decide what the propper eye relief for your scope should be when setting up your rifle. I find myself tending to like to be as close to the scope as possible but if your eye moves closer than the point where the complete "circle"/view is reached, can this also create the same problems as being too far?

Would really appreciate some advice on this, thanks for help you can give me!

Btw, what are your thoughts on how important the optic design in this matter? i.e. Focal plane posistion as discussed in this link:

http://www.6mmbr.com/parallax.html

 

[bench98]

Re: Tips for eliminating parallax?

Parallax in scopes with a non adjustable feature are usually factory set to be good at about 150yds, this could be dependent on the model. For shooting or hunting 300yds or less it is not a big deal. For long range or bench use it starts to make a difference in consistency. For scopes with the adjustable feature the way to do it is to get on your target with a stable holding position and adjust your focus for the cleanest picture then move your head around while looking through the scope. If you see the cross hair move to a different point adjust the focus a little + or - till the impact point doesn't move in the picture. Do this till you are satisfied.

 

[physhphude]

Re: Tips for eliminating parallax?

I think part of the reason expensive optics are so highly regarded on this forum is because they work.

I went through the same problems as you until I learned that equipment is equally as important as the shooter, but your problems are coming from both sides.

For Equipment: most quality scopes have a knob to adjust parallax. You simply turn the knob till there is no parallax. You check by having the rifle stable, and wiggling your head. If the crosshairs move in relation to the target, your parallax is off.

For the shooter: you should have consistant form each time you shoot. The way you hold the rifle, and your position will change your point of impact. Check your natural point of aim and make sure to maintain a consistant cheek weld.

Your eye relief should also be consistent. Moving closer to the scope is not a solution for parallax error.

Focal plane has nothing to do with parallax in terms of shooting. You only need FFP if you intend to range or hold at different magnifications.

 

[Graham]

Re: Tips for eliminating parallax?

If your parallax is fixed, it's a matter of knowing at what distance it is set. If you've got a parallax adjustment on the scope you use it like a focus knob. The key is to fine-tune the ocular, using the parallax knob, when you first set-up the scope.

You want a crisp, edge to edge view of the image, with no shadow and no tunnel. The way to eliminate parallax when you shoot is to keep your head in the same place behind the scope, everytime.

Eye relief set-up will be a compromise between what is ideal for all three positions. I set mine in the prone position, and crawl the stock a bit when shooting standing. Otherwise, if I set up the scope for standing, when I go prone I find myself too far forward on the stock.