To oil or not to oil barrel after thorough cleaning.

[Thump_rrr]

Some people say never fire a round down the pipe when the bore is clean without first lubricating the bore and running a dry patch down it.
Others such as GA Precision in their barrel break in procedure do not mention any lubrication after cleaning.
I have read others mentioning dry graphite and even suspended graphite such as lock-ease

What do you do?

 

[Rockfish Dave]

Oil it and always run a dry patch through before shooting.

Oil it to prevent rust, and running the dry patch through will not only remove any of the said oil, but will positively verify the barrel is free of obstructions.

 

[DT1]

I usually just clean my barrel with a bore snake and call it good. If I need to clean a badly fouled bore with solvent, I run an oily patch down the bore when I'm through. I've also heard what you have about not shooting a non-oiled barrel after cleaning. Always thought it might be an old wive's tail but figured why take a chance... Never tried graphite.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

When your finished cleaning take a patch and soak it an scrub the bore with old fashion lighter fluid. When the fluid drys it will leave a white powder sticking to the bore(your fingers as well). This will protect the bore and there will be no need for that first wasted shot. If you and the stick are right, your cold bore will be in the same hole as the rest. Remember all powder has graphite in it.

 

[427Cobra]

I stopped oiling my bolt gun barrels when I started using SS match barrels

 

[Thump_rrr]

I stopped oiling my bolt gun barrels when I started using SS match barrels

I still have the original barrel on my Savage 10BA(308).
It shoots 0.5 MOA when I do my part with 2,600 rounds down the pipe.
I'd like to get another year or 2 out of it if I can before rebarreling with either a Bartlein, Kreiger, or Pac-Nor SS barrel.

My AR's all run Noveske SS barrels with the exception of one E.R Shaw SS barrel which came on a Stag 3G.

 

[HOGWILD]

Big issue is mixing chemicals and not removing them wether it's in the barrel or the throat! Make sure ya get all of 1 chemical before you use the next, especially in the throat as erosion can start pretty fast and I say no more time it takes to run an oil patch and then a dry patch is not asking a bunch ! I know article below does not speak of it but maybe you can learn 1 small thing from 1 of the most used barrel makers making barrels!
Bartlein Barrels, Inc. - Break In/Cleaning

 

[Rob01]

Clean cold bore and fouled cold bore are two different things. Every once in a while the moons align and they are very close but it shouldn't be counted on. If you are planning to need the cold bore shot and others following it in the same place then you should leave the bore fouled or clean and then foul it before use.

If just cleaning and storing to be pulled out later and shot then I run a patch with Kroil on it and then run a couple dry patches before shooting. Before going to a match I fire 15-20 rounds through the rifle to make sure it's properly fouled so all shots are where I want them.

 

[jakelly]

Well don't leave it dry if you use wipeout/patchout it caused rust to form in one my CM Benchmark tubes. I heard from another guy reporting the same findings with wipeout patchout that a coating of oil stopped the problem for him, I haven't had a problem since.

 

[JByrd]

i foam mine with wipe out patch out. couple dry patches. and i got a clay bank about 150 yds. i usually do 2 rounds standing at rocks to swage bore clean and make my every 500 rd cleaning a lil entertaining and its an easy way to clear any residue

 

[6brshooter]

I usually oil barrels that won't be shot for a couple months. On my more favorite rifles, that see more frequent use, i don't bother. After i get done cleaning i spray non chlorinated brake cleaner down the chamber and bore. Let it drip out, muzzle down, then patch dry(2 patches). That gets all solvent out. Any cleaning solvent that uses ammonia will cause rust. Ammonia is a hydroscopic agent, it attracts water. I just use boretech and kg1 now. Stainless steel will rust, trust me. There is a reason it is called stainLESS not stainFREE.Lol

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Clean cold bore and fouled cold bore are two different things. Every once in a while the moons align and they are very close but it shouldn't be counted on. If you are planning to need the cold bore shot and others following it in the same place then you should leave the bore fouled or clean and then foul it before use.

If just cleaning and storing to be pulled out later and shot then I run a patch with Kroil on it and then run a couple dry patches before shooting. Before going to a match I fire 15-20 rounds through the rifle to make sure it's properly fouled so all shots are where I want them.

This. The only rifles of mine that get the bore oiled are ones that just sit. Mainly some I inherited that aren't in the best conditions and I don't feel safe firing.

 

[mackdrvr]

Upon returning from the range I run a wet patch down the barrel. Honestly the gun could sit for a month to whenever, so the wet patch is just insurance from rust. The bore does get hit with a few dry patches prior to firing again though.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

What do you do?

When I clean, I just clean, because the gun is going to be fired within a few days; and then it won't be cleaned for several weeks. Yes, when I get done for the day, I just set it aside until next time. Prints great. I don't see the need for Santeria on the gun....

 

[Niles Coyote]

I’ll default to this guys wisdom...

I'm not familiar with that bore coating. I have never seen anything that really helps other than never shoot on a squeaky clean bore if you can help it. A dry bullet rubbing against a dry bore has a gauling affect and lays down copper from the jacket. I always put a very light coat of oil in the bore for the first shot. After that there's powder fouling for lubrication. Concerning fire lapping. Never on a custom barrel. We pay a lot of money to get a nice coarse lapped finish. Smoother is not good. More bearing surface tends to pick up copper.

Found here, interesting thread BTW
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...er-6-5-creedmoor-3000-rounds-down-tube-3.html

 

[Rust]

Before going in the safe. Stainless barrels get a wet patch with Kroil followed by dry patch, since you can't completely remove the Kroil with a single dry patch. CM barrels get a wet patch, period.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

Sometimes they will go up into the safe without anything if they will be shot again in the next couple days or week. However, I generally run a wet oil patch through the bore followed by a dry patch before letting them sit in the safe. I don't bother really cleaning them with anything until they need it.