I am installing a Dead air Sandman muzzle brake on my Tikka T3X. I'm only going to use 20 foot lbs. out of fear of over tightening and damaging the shoulder. Any special precautions I should take when installing? I will not be using rockset. Thanks.
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Torquing down muzzle brake
- Thread starter remington patriot
- Start date
I think you'll find 20 ft-lbs isn't very much. Recommended fastener torques actually increase with higher thread counts as there is more surface area on which the tensile stress is applied. A 5/8-18 bolt made of the lowest grade (18-8) stainless has a recommended torque value of 104 ft-lbs. Calculated out for 24tpi and it's about 120. Even a brass 5/8-18 bolt will provide proper clamping force at 85 ft-lbs.
Also, the Sandman brake uses shims to clock the brake's ports, so the brake doesn't actually contact the shoulder.
Also, the Sandman brake uses shims to clock the brake's ports, so the brake doesn't actually contact the shoulder.
Damaging the shoulder? About the only thing you might do to it is scratch it.
The threads will yield long before the shoulder is physically deformed.
As advised, 20 ft-lbs ain't shit.
Pick something applicable out of here if you want to follow a standard: https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf
I shoot everything suppressed, with an ASR brake, timed with shims, very tight, and with a few drops of Rockset ... never had a problem getting anything on or off. Haven't ever actually measured torque ... just shim-time-tighten.
If you are concerned about torque spec’s, obviously contact the manufacturer!
If you are then concerned about the brake loosening during shooting, a few drops of blue loctite will keep the brake secure.....unless you do some long shot strings, getting the barrel “very” hot!
I use blue loctite on many firearms in various places.....scope bases/rings, in the scope saddle on high recoil rifles ( prevents the scope from moving in the rings), to screws on my high recoil handguns, to trigger adjustment screws. It’s simply an easy, cheap fix for most things that you would like to keep in place! memtb
If you are then concerned about the brake loosening during shooting, a few drops of blue loctite will keep the brake secure.....unless you do some long shot strings, getting the barrel “very” hot!
I use blue loctite on many firearms in various places.....scope bases/rings, in the scope saddle on high recoil rifles ( prevents the scope from moving in the rings), to screws on my high recoil handguns, to trigger adjustment screws. It’s simply an easy, cheap fix for most things that you would like to keep in place! memtb
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On all the brakes I have installed I have never measured torque. I use shims to time the brake to hand tight with whatever wrench I am using. I actually use red locktite and I haven’t ever had one come off in 10 years using a suppressor and longer with non suppressed rifles.
For me, this exercise is less about the muzzle brake, and more about the muzzle brake not coming off when removing my suppressor. If you're only shooting with a muzzle brake, then tightening to lighter torques is no big deal ... if it loosens at the range, you just tighten it. But if you're using a brake-suppressor-mount (like an ASR brake), what you don't want is your muzzle brake screwing off at the range and getting stuck inside your suppressor mount. Especially true if I'm pulling my suppressor from one rifle, to mount on another during the same range visit. Hence the heavy tightening and Rockset for me. It would be nice to just pop the brake on and off for cleaning, but that's tough when you're using it as a suppressor mount. Cleaning the brake while on the rifle is a pain in the ass, but having it stick in a suppressor during un-mounting is equally painful. Haven't found a "Have your cake and eat it too" solution to this one (yet).
