Trigger maintenance

[DFOOSKING]

Don't ever see this discussed other than purchasing the triggers themselves.

How often do you clean/do maintenance on your rimfires trigger?

I placed an old Rifle Basix trigger in my B14R and am beginning to wonder if this thing is getting crud'ed up from the rimfire waste dumping back.

Tried contacting Rifle Basix but recieved no reply back on best practices on how to clean this old trigger.

 

[6.5SH]

If you can feel a difference (gritty) you should.
If the rifle was exposed to extreme conditions (dust storm, heavy rain, snow) you should.
If you have to disassemble the rifle to clean (e.g. 10/22) you should, the added time is minimal.

FWIW the bolt and breech faces and extractor on .22's need cleaned 100:1 over the trigger IME.

 

[littlepod]

If you can feel a difference (gritty) you should.
If the rifle was exposed to extreme conditions (dust storm, heavy rain, snow) you should.
If you have to disassemble the rifle to clean (e.g. 10/22) you should, the added time is minimal.

FWIW the bolt and breech faces and extractor on .22's need cleaned 100:1 over the trigger IME.

I haven't cleaned my trigger once. I clean the barrel and bolt face every 500-1000 rounds but not the trigger. I have about 10000 rounds of center x through it right now.

 

[alamo5000]

I shoot suppressed 100% of the time pretty much. Definitely the trigger needs to be cleaned if you shoot with a suppressor. I've gone a LONG time without cleaning, pretty much to test the limits. The trigger was extremely gritty and I even started to have light strikes. After I cleaned it the problem corrected itself.

I use a Kidd trigger (the single stage)...and what I use is the NON chlorinated disc brake cleaner with the long nozzle. I blast as much stuff out as I can, then I scrub with a nylon brush, then shoot it again with the disc brake cleaner.

 

[Matches Malone]

Assuming the trigger isn’t sealed, if it got wet or is gritty I hit it with some lighter fluid.

 

[justin amateur]

I have to visually inspect my rimfire trigger mechanisms after every range session.
If I see particulates in the mechanism, I clean, pistols and rifles.
Magnum rimfire produces enough blowby, due to variations in brass hardness and
diameter, that burn residue shows up all the way back to the bolt handle.
Build up can interfere with closing the bolt and trigger operation.
Ronson lighter fluid to rinse the trigger clean of residue and compressed air
to blow it clean and dry. Disassemble the bolt and clean inside and out.
Only way to ensure proper function with my rimfires.

 

[LRI]

Assuming the trigger isn’t sealed, if it got wet or is gritty I hit it with some lighter fluid.

I offer you this friendly piece of advice:

Lighter fluid is Naptha. A petroleum-based fluid. While it will make a trigger feel "gooder" initially, there is an unintended consequence that reveals itself down the road. Over time the stuff will varnish and when it does, it's basically flypaper. The dust and funk that is common to the shooting world will stick to it like stink on shit.

The solution that I've settled on is a nonpetroleum-based solvent that flashes to vapor and evaporates to a dry slick finish very quickly. Ether in the form of a cheap can of starting fluid does this very, very well. It's nonchlorinated so the risk of it chewing on an expensive paint job, film dip, or whatever gun finish is very low risk. It's why I lean on it instead of brake cleaner. Your only real concern is ensuring you are in a well-ventiltaed area void of any ignition sources. (smile, wait for flash )

The cheaper the better. The "expensive" stuff often has oil in it to try and lubricate the top end of an engine as it's being used. Avoid that. You are better off with the ghetto cheap chit that evaporates to a dry slick finish.

Hope this helps.

C.

 

[Matches Malone]

I offer you this friendly piece of advice:

Lighter fluid is Naptha. A petroleum-based fluid. While it will make a trigger feel "gooder" initially, there is an unintended consequence that reveals itself down the road. Over time the stuff will varnish and when it does, it's basically flypaper. The dust and funk that is common to the shooting world will stick to it like stink on shit.

The solution that I've settled on is a nonpetroleum-based solvent that flashes to vapor and evaporates to a dry slick finish very quickly. Ether in the form of a cheap can of starting fluid does this very, very well. It's nonchlorinated so the risk of it chewing on an expensive paint job, film dip, or whatever gun finish is very low risk. It's why I lean on it instead of brake cleaner. Your only real concern is ensuring you are in a well-ventiltaed area void of any ignition sources. (smile, wait for flash )

The cheaper the better. The "expensive" stuff often has oil in it to try and lubricate the top end of an engine as it's being used. Avoid that. You are better off with the ghetto cheap chit that evaporates to a dry slick finish.

Hope this helps.

C.

Thanks!
Can you link the product?

 

[littlepod]

I've been spraying a lot of my stuff with the Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Lube - https://amzn.to/3AUsf9i

I'll need to look at the ingredients and see if it's going to just collect a bunch of dust and crap.

 

[308pirate]

I've never cleaned a bolt action rimfire trigger. Never needed to. The trigger is much further away from the breech than in a semi auto. And unlike semis the chamber stays closed until all the bore pressure is pretty much gone which means that no silica residue blows back to the trigger.

Years ago, when I was seriously competing in NRA Service Rifle, I bought a Compass Lake 22 LR upper to practice with. Every time I used it I had to turn the lower upside down, hose the trigger group with brake cleaner, and relubricate; it was that caked up with soot and silica.

 

[jcmullis2]

It’s not a common topic probably because most triggers aren’t exposed to the elements that much. I’m guilty of using compressed air, lighter fluid, watch oil, wd40 or whatever I had on hand on occasion too. Great question though