Wife wants a new vehicle. A couple models she is interested in have turboed engines. I’ve owned SC, but never turbo. Can I expect the same longevity as NA engines? More frequent maintenance? Any particular makes to avoid? TIA
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Turbocharged Gasoline Engines
- Thread starter EddieNFL
- Start date
I've owned three. Regular oil changes and letting it cool down for a minute after a hard run and zero issues. Longest one had 160k on it when I sold it and the next owner still drives it.
Owned stock, and aftermarket boosted systems. Proper fluids and change intervals, avoiding excessive or unnecessary engine temps, and as mentioned, the momentary cool down after a hard run (used to cycle oil and water through the turbos at idle, allowing them to cool before stopping) .
Nothing beats the power of boost. Nothing.
I have a major vote of confidence in the ecoBoost platform.
Nothing beats the power of boost. Nothing.
I have a major vote of confidence in the ecoBoost platform.
I've owned a couple and have never had a problem with the turbo. I also am pretty good about keeping it maintained.
Maintenance is king, regardless of induction method. Also know that turbos can and do fail. They may be rare, do your diligence in some owners forums before buying anything, but they do fail
I drive an Audi S6 and wife had a Mercedes GL550 (both twin turbo V8s). Wife got rid of her’s at about 110k miles and I am still driving my 2016. Neither of us have had a single engine issue.
Narrow down which models and years(if looking at used), then scour the forums of that particular model and that particular engine. Different engines have different weaknesses. I try to make it a general rule to never buy the first year or two of anything new. Make sure the engine/trans model has been around a few years to get the bugs worked out.
Turbos turn at pretty high rpm’s, and the bearings get pretty hot. If it is hot, and you just shut off your engine, the oil on the bearings instantly bakes to a crisp. When you crank back up, fresh oil immediately washes out the old oil and all is good, but after a lot of starts and stops, this junk will be in your oil and running through the engine. That’s why it’s better to let the engine cool for a moment before you shut it off. It’s to help that turbo cool a little bit. It’s still going to do it, just not as bad. Keep that oil changed.
I have a different experience...turbos die....because they run 100k rpm.
The tiny little engines in a lot of new cars relies so heavily on it that it become the weak link.
Performance oriented cars dont have the same problems and daily driver econobox turds with a 1.5l engine.
What is on her list? Be specific.
The tiny little engines in a lot of new cars relies so heavily on it that it become the weak link.
Performance oriented cars dont have the same problems and daily driver econobox turds with a 1.5l engine.
What is on her list? Be specific.
Buy the best synthetic oil you can afford (Castrol, Mobil, Valvoline, etc), and frequent oil changes. No more than 5k mile intervals. Don't idle the engine excessively. More and more engines have computer controlled oil pressure and drop it to around 10psi at idle (idiotic government regulations forced this). That will shorten the life of any engine.
As mentioned keep up with fluid (oil, coolant )changes and if run hard allow a few minutes to cool. Before shutting off. Many modern snails are water cooled as well, can boil coolant if extremely hot. But not likely to see that in normal driving.
This will require use of premium fuel, make sure the wife knows this. ECU’s will pull timing and add fuel if knock sensor detects knocking. You need that octane.
Modern manufacturing and computer engine control makes them generally reliable. I wouldn’t hesitate if you like the vehicle. Just know it is a long term wear item and an added complication.
This will require use of premium fuel, make sure the wife knows this. ECU’s will pull timing and add fuel if knock sensor detects knocking. You need that octane.
Modern manufacturing and computer engine control makes them generally reliable. I wouldn’t hesitate if you like the vehicle. Just know it is a long term wear item and an added complication.
That really doesn't apply to the newer turbos, especially on everyday drivers. 99% of people aren't running them hard enough to worry about getting their turbo glowing cherry red. Plus you have coolant running through most of the modern turbos.
If you've ever ran a pyrometer, you will see exhaust temps immediately go down when you're out of the throttle. It's not like you're doing a WOT pull then shutting the engine off.
I don't think I will ever buy another engine without a turbo, and if I do I will probably add one.
Ah, well, I have only owned performance models, and I have 165k on one right now, so I cannot comment on econobox turds.
The problem with most new turbo engines is the direct injection. Valvetrain gets mucked up with gunk in a hurry.
Also turbos on the Ecoboost engines seem to fail at 100k around here. Seen more then a few and have had buddies have to have them replaced on several trucks.
With that said they run like a bat out of hell.
I would run highest octane fuel, maintenance before manufacture recommended intervals. Don’t let it idle all day every day. Drive this piss out of it every once in a while.
Also turbos on the Ecoboost engines seem to fail at 100k around here. Seen more then a few and have had buddies have to have them replaced on several trucks.
With that said they run like a bat out of hell.
I would run highest octane fuel, maintenance before manufacture recommended intervals. Don’t let it idle all day every day. Drive this piss out of it every once in a while.
My RX7 would max out the Pyro gauges (1600 F)at anything over 12psi, I ran it as much as 20psi. Exhaust would glow red to the rear tires after "spirited" driving. I beat on that car like i stole it.
I put 70,000 extremely hard miles on that Garret GT35r, Turbine wheel ate an Apex seal and was still silky smooth as new after all that abuse.
I put 70,000 extremely hard miles on that Garret GT35r, Turbine wheel ate an Apex seal and was still silky smooth as new after all that abuse.
Most widely used motors in the world are turbo’d.
Great longevity of the turbo whether it’s gas or diesel. Proper routine maintenance, as with anything is crucial.
Great longevity of the turbo whether it’s gas or diesel. Proper routine maintenance, as with anything is crucial.
My comment mainly revolves around my suppositions.
A woman usually wants a smallish suv looking thing.
On which, the engine are buried deep into the chassis and the only way to service them is to drop the craddle.
On a wrx...a guy in his garage with a jack can change a turbo.... on a buick enclave a guy can pay a shop $12k
To drop the craddle, replace the turbo along with the top end gaskets, timing belt, and radiator.... do it while its out.
Shred
A woman usually wants a smallish suv looking thing.
On which, the engine are buried deep into the chassis and the only way to service them is to drop the craddle.
On a wrx...a guy in his garage with a jack can change a turbo.... on a buick enclave a guy can pay a shop $12k
To drop the craddle, replace the turbo along with the top end gaskets, timing belt, and radiator.... do it while its out.
Shred
Ouch
100,000 miles is unacceptable life for an engine after the year, oh, 1977 or so . . .
Timing belts are mostly a thing of the past. Timing chains are mostly a lifetime part as long as frequent oil changes are done.
Subaru engines are complete trash, prone to leaking, and their transmissions are terrible now too.
Double check that what you're looking at doesn't have direct injection (fucking Ford, for one). You'll have no fuel upstream of the valves to help them stay clean and will have to get your heads media blasted to get the carbon off at as early as 30K.
There are hybrid fuel injection systems that put fuel in at the manifold and at the cylinder (and retrofit kits to fuel into the manifold if you want to do the work).
There are hybrid fuel injection systems that put fuel in at the manifold and at the cylinder (and retrofit kits to fuel into the manifold if you want to do the work).
Certain Ford engines have dual injection, those engines don't need extra maintenance to clean the valves. Other manufacturers have dual injection as well. High quality fuels and oils reduce the need to have the valves cleaned, and using a fuel system cleaner such as Techron regularly helps prevent issues as well.
And/Or get a well designed catch can system… the shit on Amazon, etc. for $20 - $40 is a waste of money.
The UPR dual valve system on my truck catches about 1/2” or more of really nasty sludge and oil vapor (condenses into a watery oil floating on the sludge) at almost every oil change. Expensive as hell, but worth it.
Even though I’m confident almost all of it would burn off, I can’t imagine that crap getting pumped back into my intake to be recycled through the combustion process.
Currently have 5 turbos spinning away on 3 of our vehicles, and love ‘em. Modern engine management systems have pretty much eliminated the issues with turbo lag, etc. I still love me some V8 trumble and torque, but yeah… Turbos are an incredibly efficient way to make big power.
Echo the comments above re: regular service with good synthetic oil, and letting them cool down before shutting off the motor after a hard pull; “coking” the turbo bearings is a very real issue regardless of the number of coolers, and quality of the oil you run.
FC or FD? I'd still consider shelling out for a 95. 13b twin would be satisfying, but a 20b triple rotor would make me smile.
04 evo MR 400/400 @ wheels was my closest attempt at that level of ear to ear grin
They are a blast, love the way they handle, but if I every get another its going to have an Aluminum LS/Lt in it. Rotary's are too expensive and finicky.
Modern forced induction engines don't need anything other than what a NA car does. This thread is full of old wives' tales. Kinda l like breaking in a barrel.
Rrriiiight.... All modern cars are the same. Hyundai is just as good as Mercedes, Ford hasn't had any problems with the EcoTec engines, and CVT transmissions are just great. Darn it. We really need a sarcasm font. That being said, people who only plan on buying new and trading in when the warranty is done only have to worry about the inconvenience of dragging it back to the dealer.
I remember enough of your history to know you are well-informed, so this is sincere question and not a challenge. What are regulations that control the oil pressure-at-idle "supposed" to accomplish? I mean, it's the government, so we know it will actually be the opposite of the intention, but what was the intention?
One of the things he may be referring to is found on the Mercedes m276 an m278 engines. There is a solenoid controlled by the ECM that lowers the oil pressure during cruise and light throttle. It's one of the reasons you see some of those engines with cylinder scoring. They finally got the metallurgy worked out, but it was all in the name of fuel mileage. You can unplug the solenoid and run full mechanical pressure, but it does take a small bite out of your fuel mileage. It's hard to make CAFE standards with AMGs and S550s in the fleet.
"Fuel milage". That's what I was afraid the answer might be. The tiny amount of fuel saved that would be required to generate just a little more oil pressure vs the cost in engine life (and all the wasted energy/money in replacing those engines) has got to be a net loss for the "environment" as well as the consumer. Typical government solution - just like government gas cans.
Awesome truck. Never should have gotten rid of that for sure.
Run quality oil (full synthetic) that's rated for the purpose and change it when it's cooked. Don't be cheap, conventional oils aren't as stable with heat.
If you run to the "oil life monitor" or past regularly you're asking for issues.
I like Mobil 1. Pennzoil Platinum is also regularly at the top of any tests. Both do well enough it's not worth spending way more on Amsoil or redline.
If you run to the "oil life monitor" or past regularly you're asking for issues.
I like Mobil 1. Pennzoil Platinum is also regularly at the top of any tests. Both do well enough it's not worth spending way more on Amsoil or redline.
that thing. I'm utterly shocked it was sold. Reigning champ of fastest production truck for a great many years. Took a supercharged v8 to do it (lightning). You could buy a few AI's for what that bad boy is worth right now. But to drive it; for someone that never had/has, wow. Never would've thought of an S-10 in that way.She likes the Highlander, Sorento and Pathfinder (Nissan is definitely out).
To cover a few of the mentions...
- Seems most manufacturers us DI
- Agree on syntheic. Been my choice (other than lawn mowers) for about 30 years
- I remember diesel powered equipment we had recommended a five minute cool down
- Wife drives like she is afraid she will get there early
- Dad beat maintenance into us
- I hate buying cars
Appreciate all the input.
As mentioned, supposed fuel economy and emissions. Same with auto start/stop, cylinder deactivation, lean cruise, and why most tiny engines are going turbocharged. Without them the engine in naturally aspirated form probably wouldn't make 100hp.
Of the 3 listed, I would recommend the Highlander simply for future resale value. I would assume that the Kia won't hold its value like the Toyota. It's already a depreciating asset, so might as well keep every nickel you can.
As far as turbo goes, I've owned one turbo vehicle that was more of a "economy" turbo (small displacement, but added turbo to bridge the performance gap left from such a small motor). Never had a single issue out of the motor/transmission other than a PCV system that had to be worked on around 100k miles. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I do believe in regular oil changes (5k to 6k miles)...and always a the dealership....so they can't say that I, or someone else, screwed something up. They tell me all the time that the computer will tell me when the oil needs to be changed....I tell them I'd rather trust the odometer than some sensor...plus it's relatively cheap to change your oil.
I was telling a coworker just last week that the 90s RX-7 has not aged a single day. It has (aesthetically speaking) stood the test of time. Still a beautiful car along with the 300ZX TT, Supra and NSX of the same vintage. All cars that I think would sell like hot cakes if on the lots today. The Japanese really had it going on in the early/mid 1990s.
This may be a method used to increase fuel economy, but I have never heard of any EPA or other government regulations on oil pressure.
I think RAM is putting inline 6 single and dual turbo as the only engine option on the new 1500 series.
Safety, emissions and fuel economy all dictated by legislation. Manufacturers decide how to get there.
The air filter does the same thing regardless of the engine. Don't run K&N style filters though. If you've ever been around a skid steer run in dusty conditions, you will be cleaning or replacing the outer element once a day. Far worse conditions than most vehicles will ever see.
With modern boosted DI engines, frequent oil changes, adding a catch can (e.g. Mishimoto) will help keep intake valves clean and doing oil analysis performed at change intervals are highly recommended. Oil analysis can be done for nominal fees through a company like Blackstone will also help the engine live a long life not withstanding some catastrophic event. Oh, and don't lug the engine. Revs are your friend. This can cause low speed preignition (LSPI) which could result in severe damage. My $.02...
Ford’s been running the v6 ecoboost in Raptors, and even ‘real’ pre-runner and Trophy trucks for years.
Filtration’s more important because there’s stuff with tighter tolerances downstream that could be more easily impacted, but the system(s) itself is no different than a normally aspirated engine.
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