Suppressors Ultra 7 keeps getting stuck on bolt gun

[Sniperwannabee]

I just got my ultra 7 and love it. But 2 times it got stuck so hard I had to get a 2 strap wrenches and torque them in opposite directions. It's on a bolt gun and never run it for long. Tried anti seize but only lasted 2 times before it happened again. Am I doing something wrong? It's no cross threaded either and its on the muzzle brake attachment

 

[Zak Smith]

If it's CB mount, let it cool for a few minutes before you take it off, and do not monkey-hand tighten it when you install it.

If it's DT, the muzzle threads are probably too large.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Thanks for the fast reply I'll try to ease up on the muscle

 

[Ayoung1]

The heat will cinch it down a good bit, once cooled its much easier to remove usually. I know Griffin taper mounts are the same way, they cinch up tight while shooting and are very hard to remove while hot. Ultra 7 will be my next can, is yours 6.5 or 30 cal?

 

[A5scott]

Yeah, I would agree, don't crank it on. Same thing for my Griffin Armament Recce7 taper mounts. Snug it and keep an eye on it to make sure it isn't backing off, and eventually you will get a feel how much to tighten it and not have to worry about it loosening.

Scott

 

[Sniperwannabee]

The heat will cinch it down a good bit, once cooled its much easier to remove usually. I know Griffin taper mounts are the same way, they cinch up tight while shooting and are very hard to remove while hot. Ultra 7 will be my next can, is yours 6.5 or 30 cal?

I always did let it cool I would wait till I got home from the range, it still didn't matter. I got the 30 cal so I ca shoot it on all my rifles, but I use it mostly on my 6.5
It was well worth the wait

 

[cruze5]

i had this issue on a few of my rifles due to carbon built up on the flash hider CB mount. they suggesting cleaning it more often with solvent.

 

[pineoak]

i had this issue on a few of my rifles due to carbon built up on the flash hider CB mount. they suggesting cleaning it more often with solvent.

+1
and on a bolt gun, there is little need to much torque at all, lightly turn until it stops and add just a smidge more

never had it loosen on me before

carbon buildup makes it a bitch to take off when it's built up

 

[BurnOut]

As others have said, easing up on the muscle when installing the can will help, as will using anti-seize every time you install it. I keep my anti-seize in my range bag, and put a small dab on the CB threads (then distributed around the threads by hand) each time I install the can. It's a bit messy, but I keep a rag in my range bag for just that sort of reason, but I have yet to have a problem with the can getting stuck on the mount.

 

[bab029]

Make it either nickel or ceramic anti-seize. Walter makes an excellent ceramic product called rock 'n roll that stays on the parts for a long time and won't gum up like some of the metallic stuff.

 

[BS68280]

I had mine get stuck on the first time I threaded it on there, had to send it to them and get it removed, cut the threads off my barrel, rethreaded and crowned. My threads were apparently out of spec on the rifle, yours may be too.

 

[Zak Smith]

I think he was talking about the CB version.
The DT version of an Ultra will almost never seize on screwed up muzzle threads; due to the material and finish hardness it will typically just stop, unless it's cranked on with tremendous force.

 

[devldogs55]

Make it either nickel or ceramic anti-seize. Walter makes an excellent ceramic product called rock 'n roll that stays on the parts for a long time and won't gum up like some of the metallic stuff.

Yep.. I use this stuff and it's great.

 

[padronanniversary]

i use high temp antisense made by ford for brake calipers. works great, $10 quart will last a life time

 

[Sniperwannabee]

well the problem was me. Im just to strong . eased up on the muscle and have not had a problem since

 

[Not_A_Llama]

Related problem I've had with my 30BA and my Ultra 5 - if the can is hot and I'm swapping between guns, it's *really* important to be light on the torque and (ideally) remove before it cools.

Otherwise the can gets "shrink wrapped" onto the new gun when it cools. Fun needing my Iwatani cooking torch to heat up the can base enough to unscrew without removing my muzzle device.

I've also resolved this by establishing a cold index mark on can and mount, and ensuring it always stays there, even if the can feels like it could use a little more turning when hot.

 

[black5.3]

This is good info... just sent off my form 4 for my ultra 7 .30... cant wait to get it. The business who did the transfer and paperwork was really impressed with the weight and quality of the ultra 7.. apparently they had never handled a tbac.

 

[Pappasniper]

I locked my TBAC can up. Since then I try to clean the mount a bit and put anything from lube to anti seize before remounting it.

PB

 

[Holliday]

+1
and on a bolt gun, there is little need to much torque at all, lightly turn until it stops and add just a smidge more

never had it loosen on me before

That's what I do w/ my Ultra 9. One thing I've learned designing/selling products, is that men, left to their own devices, will over tighten everything......

 

[sheepdog697]

first few times i used my silencerco omega with the QD mount i tightened it pretty hard by hand before i used the locking mechanism. I had the same issue you did. It was tight already, and the heat really cinched them together. Ever since then i have barely hand tightened the suppressor onto the QD mount, then i use the locking mechanism and it comes off fine. As others have said maybe wait a few minutes, and take your suppressor cover off to allow some of the heat to cool if you are using one.

cheers