Where can I get good unsupported shooting advice, techniques, practice? I am tired of these stupid nrl22 unsupported stages kicking my ass.
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- Thread starter chopit
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I do not do nrl but many unsupported techniques rely on practice.
I do see people training for olympic 50m positional shooting and have received much wise words but here is the 20% that I can advise you. I am myself horrible at positions but have gotten much better from where I was.
1. You must learn to shoot on your bones. For this most people maybe learn by fatiguing first and then in order to continuing to shoot, start putting their weight/ balance points on bone structure to ease the muscle pain.
This will take many shots, maybe 4x 50 shots to get a hold of per position. Start by building a stable position at home floor with the gun, trying to minimize movement.
While you must avoid muscular pain, some positions are not very nice at all at the beginning but you will flex / get used to them. Some positions like standing without a sling and a shooting coat require muscling and with them reflex shooting is pretty much required after couple of shots. Added
2. Do you shoot upon reflex or wait it out.
Some people can make their stance still enough to wait out a shot. Some rely on reflex, shooting when the aim is about to cross over the target. I use this when shooting multiple shots while standing and it just becomes impossible to keep front hand steady without allowing some movement. Added
3. Focus on natural point of aim. With taxing positions a small degree of error in NPOA can make you
-horrible groups
-non-explainable muscular fatigue, trying to break away from body's own preferred shape
-practise in vain.
Just as with prone shooting, with enough time spent and times you built your position, you will naturally just drop into the correct position with good or perfect NPOA, ready to take the shot.
I do see people training for olympic 50m positional shooting and have received much wise words but here is the 20% that I can advise you. I am myself horrible at positions but have gotten much better from where I was.
1. You must learn to shoot on your bones. For this most people maybe learn by fatiguing first and then in order to continuing to shoot, start putting their weight/ balance points on bone structure to ease the muscle pain.
This will take many shots, maybe 4x 50 shots to get a hold of per position. Start by building a stable position at home floor with the gun, trying to minimize movement.
While you must avoid muscular pain, some positions are not very nice at all at the beginning but you will flex / get used to them. Some positions like standing without a sling and a shooting coat require muscling and with them reflex shooting is pretty much required after couple of shots. Added
2. Do you shoot upon reflex or wait it out.
Some people can make their stance still enough to wait out a shot. Some rely on reflex, shooting when the aim is about to cross over the target. I use this when shooting multiple shots while standing and it just becomes impossible to keep front hand steady without allowing some movement. Added
3. Focus on natural point of aim. With taxing positions a small degree of error in NPOA can make you
-horrible groups
-non-explainable muscular fatigue, trying to break away from body's own preferred shape
-practise in vain.
Just as with prone shooting, with enough time spent and times you built your position, you will naturally just drop into the correct position with good or perfect NPOA, ready to take the shot.
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Take a look at http://old.thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TeachingRiflePositions.pdf
It is a good basic guide that will get you started. Having a full length mirror to work in front of so you can see what you are doing is helpful.
Most of the standing position revolves around balance, getting your center of gravity while holding the rifle centered inside your base of support which is the area that would be inside a line drawn from toe to toe, heel to heel and around the outsides of your feet.
You could also go to youtube and search ISSF rifle finals. Air rifle is all standing, in 3x40, standing is last. You will get an idea of what good standing positions look like.
It is a good basic guide that will get you started. Having a full length mirror to work in front of so you can see what you are doing is helpful.
Most of the standing position revolves around balance, getting your center of gravity while holding the rifle centered inside your base of support which is the area that would be inside a line drawn from toe to toe, heel to heel and around the outsides of your feet.
You could also go to youtube and search ISSF rifle finals. Air rifle is all standing, in 3x40, standing is last. You will get an idea of what good standing positions look like.
In the July 1st 1922 issue of “ARMS AND THE MAN” we find such an excellent article on “Off Hand Rifle Shooting” by H. M. Pope quoted herewith:
“This is written with the hope that it will help riflemen generally to make better offhand scores; it is based upon my many years’ association with the best offhand shooters that this country has ever produced, as well as my long experience with riflemaking, and may help others to ultimate victory.
The Palm Rest. This is by no means the contemptible toy that most shooters imagine, but to most men a very useful article – an equalizer of men’s physical peculiarities and differences.
The very first thing to do on a strange range is to properly adjust the palm rest for length, endeavoring to shoot from one shooting stand only so that various uneven footings will not effect the elevation of the rifle. To do this one must stand at the firing point where one is to shoot, in a perfectly natural easy position, directing the rifle toward the target. Close your eyes as you settle into a perfectly natural position, then open the eyes and the sights should point level with the bullseye without the shooter having to bend the body either forward or back; if it does not, change the length of the palm rest until it comes up just right.
The proper position of the palm rest is important; it should be neither too close to the receiver nor too far away. If too close the left hand has to support too much weight; also movements of the holding arm will move the muzzle too rapidly. In other words, the control is bad; also the excessive weight tires one sooner. It must not be forgotten that the weight that the left hand is holding is considerably in excess of the rifle itself, due to the center of gravity of the rifle being outside of the support. If the palm rest is too far forward the weight of the rifle tends to force the palm rest open and away from the body. It should be so that the weight tends to close it together, without pull of the arm toward the body. The palm rest should not rest in the palm, but on the heel of the hand so as to avoid the flexibility of the palm and its muscular movements; in short the rest and forearm in proper relation to one another is a direct strut from the rifle to the hip without any muscular change of length. The left hand should be in perfectly natural position and with fingers lightly closed on the knob.
Position. This again will vary somewhat with individuals, but must be perfectly natural, easy and free from muscular strain. The weight should be about evenly distributed on both legs, which should be straightened out and not too far apart, as this means muscular strain, while the bones should carry the weight. As the writer stands, the feet are at an angle of about 60 degrees the left foot about 50 degrees with the line of fire, the right a little back or square in the line of fire, the heels 7 inches apart. Don’t Straddle.
In getting into position it is extremely important that one gets so set that the natural easy position directs the rifle at the bullseye; we have already set our palm rest to do so, therefore now in aiming let the rifle come to its natural position; then if, looking over the sights, it is right or left, rock backward letting the left leg hang, swing the body so the rifle will point at the bull, then rock forward letting the right hang down naturally and you will now find that the rifle points itself at the bull merely by assuming a perfectly easy position without muscular strain. If not perfectly set of course, one can direct the rifle to a considerable angle at either side, but when the nerves relax control of the strained muscles to the slightest degree, the muscles assume a natural position and the rifle swings off.
Aiming and Pulling. In a match of considerable length one should never try to pull every shot dead central. It can’t be done, and to try to do so only results in fatigue and wild shooting. No matter how expert, one practically never holds perfectly still; there is always a swing or tremor. Don’t outhold your wind, try to pull the first time your sights swing slowly into a position that you can pull cleanly, to score slightly above your average score. In doing this you avoid wild shots and many times you get off practically on center.
A good score is not made by a large number of perfect shots, but by the absence of poor ones. It does not pay to try to pull centers unless nothing else will do in a tight place, then be careful. If the sights will not settle before you feel short of breath, put the rifle down and breath very slowly and deeply two or three times; swallow your guts and try again. Be sure that you pull this important shot on a slow swing and with a perfectly clean pull.
The set trigger should not be extremely fine, but should be perfectly clean without any kick to the finger when it lets go. The trigger guard or lever should bring the trigger finger into such a position that a long forward reach is not necessary. The thumb should be along the side of the stock, not over it; in fact it should form a gauge to keep the trigger finger in such a position that the tip of the finger comes naturally just onto the trigger. This position you must learn to shot well; the finger cannot be away from the trigger when you want to pull, but in contact with it. The best way when aiming is to keep touching the trigger with the tip of the finger, then when the sight swings deep into the bull, a little bit harder touch lets it off. The object of doing this is to avoid sympathetic movements of the other fingers at the same time which disturb the aim. It is very hard to make a quick movement of one finger without also moving the adjacent fingers more of less, which movement disturbs the aim.
In aiming the rifle, the left arm should be along side, the elbow resting on the hip bone if you are so built; if not, then along side on the short ribs - not in front over the heart and stomach, which cramps the breathing and heart action. The right arm should have the elbow well up, not against the side; this pulls the chest open and gives the lungs more capacity; it also allows the use of a straighter stock, and a rifle with a straight stock shoots more uniformly than one with much drop.
Breathing. It is extremely important that you pay careful attention to this. One should breathe slowly and deeply. Do not allow yourself to breath fast, as it tends to make the pulse rapid, which in turn affects the aim. If one is shooting continuous scores with fixed ammunition, one is apt to get short of breath before the score is finished, and the pulse goes up. This is because the blood is robbed of the necessary oxygen when holding the breath. We compensate for this by deep low breathing, making the whole surface of the lungs work instead of a small portion of the same in ordinary use. As I lift my rifle to aim, I lift it high and fill my lungs fully; as I begin to settle I breathe nearly empty, then as the aim begins to settle, I breathe about half full and hold the breath till I fire; then at once begin breathing again deeply and slowly.
Weight of Rifle. For the finest offhand shooting, the rifle must be muzzle heavy. This is not, as most shooters suppose, wholly in the weight of the rifle, but in the disposition of the weight; as much weight as possible should be in the barrel. Weight in the stock and butt plate is useless except in absorbing the recoil. The use of a heavy butt plate is to be condemned. While it tends to balance the rifle when the same is carried free, its weight is entirely on the right shoulder in shooting and does not in any way change the weight supported on the left hand, in fact the rifle at the shoulder is a second–class lever in which the power is the weight of the rifle concentrated at the center of gravity, which should be well beyond the left hand. The fulcrum is the shoulder, and the work is the weight held by the left hand. If the center of gravity is in front of the left hand, then the weight held in the left hand is greater than the rifle. If the center of gravity is behind the left hand, the weight will be less than the weight of the rifle. It is necessary to hold a reasonable amount of weight on the left hand in order that the swing of the rifle may be slow and give one time to pull. It is possible to build a rifle to weigh 12 or 20 pounds and have it hold exactly the same. In other words except to absorb recoil, the shooting weight of a rifle is not what the rifle actually is, but how the weight is distributed. Anyone can prove these facts for themselves, as I have done for many years for my customers, by simply holding the rifle by the butt plate so that it will not overturn on a small platform scale, first weighing the rifle itself, then by supporting it at various places to see what the left hand actually holds, and not forgetting before you finish to tie a couple of points or so onto the butt plate in order to convince yourself that it has absolutely no effect on the weight held by the left hand, and there has no effect on the shooting balance of the rifle and no influence in slowing the movement of the muzzle in aiming.
Stock. The stock should be as straight as possible to conform with comfort. The cheek piece should be high enough so the when the eye is in line with the sights as it presses firmly against the cheek, as this materially helps steady the rifle. The cheek piece if hollowed should have no projection in front, but a straight run for the rifle recoils an appreciable amount before the bullet leaves the muzzle, and any projection rolls the rifle as it drives back and disturbs the aim, and this drive-back and roll will vary with uneven holds; consequently the bullet direction also varies and you get shots where you do not expect them. It is very important that the butt stock should be tight. A loose butt stock will scatter shots badly; so also will anything else loose, though to a lesser extent.
Telescope. This absolutely must be focused at the distance you intend to shoot. The eye lens should be focused first by looking at a blank sheet of paper or on a clear sky so that the cross hairs are dead black and distinct. This is never changed unless your eyesight changes. Focusing for distance is done with the object lens or intermediate lens only. Use plain paper or clear sky so the there is no object seen to confuse you. It is probable that different people will require different eye adjustments as they would spectacles. Set the telescope, on or off the rifle, on something so it will point on the target and not move easily. Then look through it and move the eye around quickly in every direction as far as you can see clearly, and notice whether the cross hairs appear to be stationary on the target; they should not appear to move at all. If they do, the telescope must be focused by loosening the front lens or the intermediate lens, moving it very slightly in or out until repeated trials show that the cross hairs do not appear to move, then tighten it carefully and look again to be sure you did not move it in tightening. This is the only position that will give correct shooting. It also should be the position of clearest vision, but it matters very little whether the vision is perfectly distinct or not, the cross hairs must be still.
In putting the glass onto the rifle, be sure the tube is wiped clean where it bears on the sides and slightly greased. Be very sure that the mounts and blocks are absolutely clean where they come together and that they are carefully tightened; I use a dime for a screwdriver. This makes them sufficiently tight without strain.
Keep a careful record of the readings of your telescope on different ranges and on different guns; you will then have no trouble shifting from one range or gun to the other. Once in a while test your telescope and mounts to see that everything is secure. Place the gun on something solid so that you can see through the telescope which is suppose to be properly tightened on it, look through the telescope and at the same time tap on the tube with a lead pencil; you will see the cross hairs jump with each tap, but they should come back each time to absolutely the same place. If they do not, something is loose, either with the mounts, or inside the scope. This happens, and any decent shooting is then simply impossible and a good gun and ammunition gets blamed instead of a faulty scope or mounts.
After each shot return your telescope to its proper position from which the recoil had jarred it. To do this, never take hold of the rear end and pull it back, but place the left forefinger on the barrel ahead of the telescope and slide the finger gently to place, the telescope will then come back each time to its proper place.
You may think a big fellow like you can hold as long as you like, but you can’t do it. I am a little fellow, but I can shoot rings around most large shooters. It is not the size and strength that count, but the nerve and judgment. With these instructions and a lot of careful practice you can attain in a short time what it took me years to learn. Study these methods and shoot all you can. Carefully note everything you do and you will find your work improving. Pay attention to the details.
Good luck be with you.
H. M. Pope
“This is written with the hope that it will help riflemen generally to make better offhand scores; it is based upon my many years’ association with the best offhand shooters that this country has ever produced, as well as my long experience with riflemaking, and may help others to ultimate victory.
The Palm Rest. This is by no means the contemptible toy that most shooters imagine, but to most men a very useful article – an equalizer of men’s physical peculiarities and differences.
The very first thing to do on a strange range is to properly adjust the palm rest for length, endeavoring to shoot from one shooting stand only so that various uneven footings will not effect the elevation of the rifle. To do this one must stand at the firing point where one is to shoot, in a perfectly natural easy position, directing the rifle toward the target. Close your eyes as you settle into a perfectly natural position, then open the eyes and the sights should point level with the bullseye without the shooter having to bend the body either forward or back; if it does not, change the length of the palm rest until it comes up just right.
The proper position of the palm rest is important; it should be neither too close to the receiver nor too far away. If too close the left hand has to support too much weight; also movements of the holding arm will move the muzzle too rapidly. In other words, the control is bad; also the excessive weight tires one sooner. It must not be forgotten that the weight that the left hand is holding is considerably in excess of the rifle itself, due to the center of gravity of the rifle being outside of the support. If the palm rest is too far forward the weight of the rifle tends to force the palm rest open and away from the body. It should be so that the weight tends to close it together, without pull of the arm toward the body. The palm rest should not rest in the palm, but on the heel of the hand so as to avoid the flexibility of the palm and its muscular movements; in short the rest and forearm in proper relation to one another is a direct strut from the rifle to the hip without any muscular change of length. The left hand should be in perfectly natural position and with fingers lightly closed on the knob.
Position. This again will vary somewhat with individuals, but must be perfectly natural, easy and free from muscular strain. The weight should be about evenly distributed on both legs, which should be straightened out and not too far apart, as this means muscular strain, while the bones should carry the weight. As the writer stands, the feet are at an angle of about 60 degrees the left foot about 50 degrees with the line of fire, the right a little back or square in the line of fire, the heels 7 inches apart. Don’t Straddle.
In getting into position it is extremely important that one gets so set that the natural easy position directs the rifle at the bullseye; we have already set our palm rest to do so, therefore now in aiming let the rifle come to its natural position; then if, looking over the sights, it is right or left, rock backward letting the left leg hang, swing the body so the rifle will point at the bull, then rock forward letting the right hang down naturally and you will now find that the rifle points itself at the bull merely by assuming a perfectly easy position without muscular strain. If not perfectly set of course, one can direct the rifle to a considerable angle at either side, but when the nerves relax control of the strained muscles to the slightest degree, the muscles assume a natural position and the rifle swings off.
Aiming and Pulling. In a match of considerable length one should never try to pull every shot dead central. It can’t be done, and to try to do so only results in fatigue and wild shooting. No matter how expert, one practically never holds perfectly still; there is always a swing or tremor. Don’t outhold your wind, try to pull the first time your sights swing slowly into a position that you can pull cleanly, to score slightly above your average score. In doing this you avoid wild shots and many times you get off practically on center.
A good score is not made by a large number of perfect shots, but by the absence of poor ones. It does not pay to try to pull centers unless nothing else will do in a tight place, then be careful. If the sights will not settle before you feel short of breath, put the rifle down and breath very slowly and deeply two or three times; swallow your guts and try again. Be sure that you pull this important shot on a slow swing and with a perfectly clean pull.
The set trigger should not be extremely fine, but should be perfectly clean without any kick to the finger when it lets go. The trigger guard or lever should bring the trigger finger into such a position that a long forward reach is not necessary. The thumb should be along the side of the stock, not over it; in fact it should form a gauge to keep the trigger finger in such a position that the tip of the finger comes naturally just onto the trigger. This position you must learn to shot well; the finger cannot be away from the trigger when you want to pull, but in contact with it. The best way when aiming is to keep touching the trigger with the tip of the finger, then when the sight swings deep into the bull, a little bit harder touch lets it off. The object of doing this is to avoid sympathetic movements of the other fingers at the same time which disturb the aim. It is very hard to make a quick movement of one finger without also moving the adjacent fingers more of less, which movement disturbs the aim.
In aiming the rifle, the left arm should be along side, the elbow resting on the hip bone if you are so built; if not, then along side on the short ribs - not in front over the heart and stomach, which cramps the breathing and heart action. The right arm should have the elbow well up, not against the side; this pulls the chest open and gives the lungs more capacity; it also allows the use of a straighter stock, and a rifle with a straight stock shoots more uniformly than one with much drop.
Breathing. It is extremely important that you pay careful attention to this. One should breathe slowly and deeply. Do not allow yourself to breath fast, as it tends to make the pulse rapid, which in turn affects the aim. If one is shooting continuous scores with fixed ammunition, one is apt to get short of breath before the score is finished, and the pulse goes up. This is because the blood is robbed of the necessary oxygen when holding the breath. We compensate for this by deep low breathing, making the whole surface of the lungs work instead of a small portion of the same in ordinary use. As I lift my rifle to aim, I lift it high and fill my lungs fully; as I begin to settle I breathe nearly empty, then as the aim begins to settle, I breathe about half full and hold the breath till I fire; then at once begin breathing again deeply and slowly.
Weight of Rifle. For the finest offhand shooting, the rifle must be muzzle heavy. This is not, as most shooters suppose, wholly in the weight of the rifle, but in the disposition of the weight; as much weight as possible should be in the barrel. Weight in the stock and butt plate is useless except in absorbing the recoil. The use of a heavy butt plate is to be condemned. While it tends to balance the rifle when the same is carried free, its weight is entirely on the right shoulder in shooting and does not in any way change the weight supported on the left hand, in fact the rifle at the shoulder is a second–class lever in which the power is the weight of the rifle concentrated at the center of gravity, which should be well beyond the left hand. The fulcrum is the shoulder, and the work is the weight held by the left hand. If the center of gravity is in front of the left hand, then the weight held in the left hand is greater than the rifle. If the center of gravity is behind the left hand, the weight will be less than the weight of the rifle. It is necessary to hold a reasonable amount of weight on the left hand in order that the swing of the rifle may be slow and give one time to pull. It is possible to build a rifle to weigh 12 or 20 pounds and have it hold exactly the same. In other words except to absorb recoil, the shooting weight of a rifle is not what the rifle actually is, but how the weight is distributed. Anyone can prove these facts for themselves, as I have done for many years for my customers, by simply holding the rifle by the butt plate so that it will not overturn on a small platform scale, first weighing the rifle itself, then by supporting it at various places to see what the left hand actually holds, and not forgetting before you finish to tie a couple of points or so onto the butt plate in order to convince yourself that it has absolutely no effect on the weight held by the left hand, and there has no effect on the shooting balance of the rifle and no influence in slowing the movement of the muzzle in aiming.
Stock. The stock should be as straight as possible to conform with comfort. The cheek piece should be high enough so the when the eye is in line with the sights as it presses firmly against the cheek, as this materially helps steady the rifle. The cheek piece if hollowed should have no projection in front, but a straight run for the rifle recoils an appreciable amount before the bullet leaves the muzzle, and any projection rolls the rifle as it drives back and disturbs the aim, and this drive-back and roll will vary with uneven holds; consequently the bullet direction also varies and you get shots where you do not expect them. It is very important that the butt stock should be tight. A loose butt stock will scatter shots badly; so also will anything else loose, though to a lesser extent.
Telescope. This absolutely must be focused at the distance you intend to shoot. The eye lens should be focused first by looking at a blank sheet of paper or on a clear sky so that the cross hairs are dead black and distinct. This is never changed unless your eyesight changes. Focusing for distance is done with the object lens or intermediate lens only. Use plain paper or clear sky so the there is no object seen to confuse you. It is probable that different people will require different eye adjustments as they would spectacles. Set the telescope, on or off the rifle, on something so it will point on the target and not move easily. Then look through it and move the eye around quickly in every direction as far as you can see clearly, and notice whether the cross hairs appear to be stationary on the target; they should not appear to move at all. If they do, the telescope must be focused by loosening the front lens or the intermediate lens, moving it very slightly in or out until repeated trials show that the cross hairs do not appear to move, then tighten it carefully and look again to be sure you did not move it in tightening. This is the only position that will give correct shooting. It also should be the position of clearest vision, but it matters very little whether the vision is perfectly distinct or not, the cross hairs must be still.
In putting the glass onto the rifle, be sure the tube is wiped clean where it bears on the sides and slightly greased. Be very sure that the mounts and blocks are absolutely clean where they come together and that they are carefully tightened; I use a dime for a screwdriver. This makes them sufficiently tight without strain.
Keep a careful record of the readings of your telescope on different ranges and on different guns; you will then have no trouble shifting from one range or gun to the other. Once in a while test your telescope and mounts to see that everything is secure. Place the gun on something solid so that you can see through the telescope which is suppose to be properly tightened on it, look through the telescope and at the same time tap on the tube with a lead pencil; you will see the cross hairs jump with each tap, but they should come back each time to absolutely the same place. If they do not, something is loose, either with the mounts, or inside the scope. This happens, and any decent shooting is then simply impossible and a good gun and ammunition gets blamed instead of a faulty scope or mounts.
After each shot return your telescope to its proper position from which the recoil had jarred it. To do this, never take hold of the rear end and pull it back, but place the left forefinger on the barrel ahead of the telescope and slide the finger gently to place, the telescope will then come back each time to its proper place.
You may think a big fellow like you can hold as long as you like, but you can’t do it. I am a little fellow, but I can shoot rings around most large shooters. It is not the size and strength that count, but the nerve and judgment. With these instructions and a lot of careful practice you can attain in a short time what it took me years to learn. Study these methods and shoot all you can. Carefully note everything you do and you will find your work improving. Pay attention to the details.
Good luck be with you.
H. M. Pope
You are so close you can almost taste it...Sign up for the online training here, it’s 15$ a month with 60? Some videos on a variety of different topics including some unsupported shooting videos. Helped me A LOT
https://artoftherifle.com/
These articles are how I studied for an Appleseed shoot and I got my patch first day. Still look at his stuff from time to time, doesn't post nearly as much as he used to.
These articles are how I studied for an Appleseed shoot and I got my patch first day. Still look at his stuff from time to time, doesn't post nearly as much as he used to.
Thanks looks like I got alot of reading to do! With only 2 mins for the stage and changing postions it is hard to get slung up good. Doesn't help my rifle weighs 14.5 lbs.
Here is the short version, with some pictures from Matt--
Basics from smallbore position may give you a place to start from................
Here is another one to look at--
I have 2 service rifle match uppers, one will weigh 13-1/2 pounds and the other one (with more weight) is just at 16 pounds.
Basics from smallbore position may give you a place to start from................
Here is another one to look at--
I have 2 service rifle match uppers, one will weigh 13-1/2 pounds and the other one (with more weight) is just at 16 pounds.
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That weight is at the upper end of the range of what a current smallbore 3P rifle will weigh. For standing, the overall weight is not the problem, it is the distribution of the weight . A 14 Lb. rifle that balances at your support hand is not difficult to hold, the further forward of your support hand the balance point gets, the harder it is to hold.
Practice practice practicey small bore got me the basics.
The USMC continued my training.
This book became my Bible.
The USMC continued my training.
This book became my Bible.
I moved away from sling supported to palm rest with decent results in my last NRL22 match. But it was a large wobble zone and I was snatching the trigger. 
Minus 2 credibility points for wearing a NF hat while shooting an SB ?
Ya, the time limits imposed and the positions and such in nrl22 are fairly well a joke. Small targets and sometimes paper. It’s not very practical.
Someone decided to put them in there and never take them out.
Also, last time I checked they didn’t allow too many modified positions like modified Hawkins and such. Basically they want people wobbling around and snatching triggers.
Someone decided to put them in there and never take them out.
Also, last time I checked they didn’t allow too many modified positions like modified Hawkins and such. Basically they want people wobbling around and snatching triggers.
I tried that cheater kneeling but I am not flexible enough to see thru the scope. I like how it's anchored with pants leg.
My text was rather open on that part, thanks for pointing it out.
When I shoot my 22LR (11.9lb) without support in standing position, I can make maybe 3-4 first shots with full aim support from the support hand.
After that it becomes a struggle where I just try to manage to keep the aim somewhere (centered) around the target and pull shots off. I do not really focus on trigger pull, I trust it to be correct when I see that I get my shots on target. Instead I focus on reticle movement and relaxing myself.
Very often the best target is the second one, when I start to apply more liberal aiming control.
The part that really got me was her logic in why she didn’t think the .22 was like a .308 at 1k.
Scope bite pretty much died out once modern optics with better eye relief and 6.5mm and smaller became popular
First I want to acknowledge that the NRL22 idea is a home-run. But they need to continue to work and tweak.
In transparency, I have done very well at the several different clubs I've shot since the beginning. I already shoot with a tremendous handicap, left-handed due to an eye injury on a right-handed bolt-action, as they put more and more unsupported paper in it gets me a bit more than most shooters. I don't bitch too hard when my MD has made me shoot right-handed (my original strong side), but I can not even see the reticle. These are my issues, and I own them, so maybe I am not as bias as I'd like to be. I am trying to respond with no-bias, but it is hard not to have some vantage point. However, I think my statement below should ring true to everyone.
What I have seen is the more the NRL22 takes the easy road to add variety and adds more and more papers points with unsupported, the more unbalanced the matches become. It has allowed the small-bore silhouette specialists that live on most club's 100-yard small bore ranges, who will never compete in a centerfire match, to clean up.
BUT.. this is supposed to be practice for NRL CENTERFIRE or PRS type centerfire, and these are inferior stages to use for such training when weighted so heavily. If centerfire matches were set up the same unbalanced way, PRS or NRL centerfire would not be what it is today.
I agree that for training and feeding NRL centerfire, "Nrl22 as lost their minds shooting unsupported at small paper targets."
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Agreed. Nrl22 is trying to wear too many hats.
I’s like see a format added as an option with these parameters:
There will be local club MD’s. Those MD’s will design their own unique COF. Just like centerfire. Out to as far or close distance as they want or have room for.
NRL will host the club standings on their website. So, you can go online and see your club, or any other club’s standings. NRL has little or not oversight in clubs unless behavior unbecoming to NRL is happening.
The country is divided into regions. Every quarter each region will have a designated match out to 300yds at a designated range in that region. NRL must approve the CoF.
You can shoot any regional match anywhere in the country. But only one score per quarter counts.
These scores are recorded and this is the “National Nrl precision .22 series” points race. Either 2 or 3 regional scores will count.
Then the national championship takes place like normal and this completes either the 3rd or 4th score for your season standings.
Local monthly nrl22 cof’s still happen and cof are designed by nrl22 as usual. Giving the locations that only have 100yds or the very basic beginners something to shoot.
Then you have a base monthly for beginners/recreational/limited distance.
You also have a PRS style .22 league that mimics the distances and props utilized at the national championship.
And you have a points series instead of just the one national championship match.
In the above, local club scores don’t matter for national rankings. It’s basically just a place to keep the scores and also bring any outlaw clubs (I know of at least 3 clubs in my area that are doing PRS .22 and keeping a yearly points list) into the fold to feed more into nrl.
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