We’ve already been there, I say extend out a bit and go for Mars252,800 miles. I'm shooting for the Moon....
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
To enter, all you need to do is add an image of yourself at the range below!
Join the contestWe’ve already been there, I say extend out a bit and go for Mars252,800 miles. I'm shooting for the Moon....
As with my age, I do not feel comfortable taking a shot on Game past 250-300 yards. So, i zero my hunting rifles at 200 yards. As Wes1391 says, ”Plenty of room for whitetail.”If I recall BZO back in my day was 300 yards.
For my hunting rifle, I’m not a competitive shooter, I like a zero of 300 yards. This makes me 1-3” high at 100-175 yards. Plenty of room for a whitetail.
For hunting I still zero at 100 then figure out my MPBR and then dial in the correction to get where I need to be. Depending on the round this usually gets me out to 350 ish no adjustments needed. Then I can still return to zero at the end of the day or dial out farther if needed.Page 1 was a bunch of nonsense and there’s still plenty on page 6, so I will assume there’s limited adult thoughts on 2-5 (that I didn’t read.)
Anyhow, on my short barrel 308 hunting rifle I zero at 50, second zero at 175. That gives me +/- .2mil for anything out to 200 yards where I don’t have to worry about it.
200-500 yards gives me time to dial and it’s extremely simple… I don’t have to reference written dope, add .5 for every 50 yards. (250=.5, 300=1, 350=1.5, etc)
For hunting I still zero at 100 then figure out my MBPR and then dial in the correction to get where I need to be. Depending on the round this usually gets me out to 350 ish no adjustments needed. Then I can still return to zero at the end of the day or dial out farther if needed.
^IMO, this is the easiest thing. Once you zero at 100yds......you can dial in any other "zero" you want. MPBR is a very powerful tool for hunters.
Using 100yds zero, you literally have unlimited options as to what you want to do after.
Truly, this is the BEST option. Holy fuck.Everyone needs to stop replying to this idiotic thread so that it either dies a well deserved death or the op look like an even bigger idiot replying to himself to try to appear relevant.
Truly, this is the BEST option. Holy fuck.
F that. I want to know about his bow kills and bench press numbers...Not until.......we find out what SD formula he uses.
only if he pours concrete tooF that. I want to know about his bow kills and bench press numbers...
I have it on good authority RIverBoat Kerry is fixing "Climate Change." so you may have to re-think in a few years.With atmospherics being what they are, a 1 yard zero is the only way to be sure. Anything more is just asking for error from drift. Spin, wind, coriolis? Why take the chance.
Hola tiradores. Yo siempre lo pongo a 100 metros. ¿Por qué..?
En primer lugar por que yo trabajo en miliradianes, en sistema métrico. Una cosa menos que calcular. 1 clic = 0´1 mil = 1cm a 100m.
Aparte es necesario una base inclinada y/o una torreta con 28 miliradianes como mínimo, así me aseguro que no pierdo clicks de correción en elevación y puedo tener el ( zeroing) a 100m y todo el poder de correción de la óptica en elevación disponible para largo alcance .
Por ejemplo en mi Bergara bmp del 6´5 Creedmoor tengo una Vortex con una elevación de 31 mil. Base inclinada Sphur del 9 mil y está puesto a cero a 100m con una pérdida de sólo 1,5 mil. O sea, tengo más de 29 mil de correción en alcance.
it's one of those 'you had to be there' sort of thingsWhat is this "pouring concrete" that everyone refers to?
Google translate says the post started with mrad because metric (abridged), then devolved from there…Como the fuck?
Google translate says the post started with mrad because metric (abridged), then devolved from there…