I have a practice I subscribe to now. Keeps me from buying crap I don't need. Buy only one rifle for the most important discrete task you have. Learn it, and it can likely serve you well for everything else. Make it the absolute best you can afford, especially glass. Most people are rifle rich and glass poor. Sell the rest of the collection. If you have money left, start building another rifle for the second most important discrete task.
I have two center fire bolt action rifles and an AR 15. My hunting rifle and my match rifle, plus the 5.55. I sold everything else and bought good glass. Now, I love to go shoot and I quit messing around with crap at the range.
I decided to start a third, but it is for a third discrete purpose, an ultralight backpack gun...
Now, I do sometimes pick up a rifle and glass to play with and resell from time to time though. That satisfies my need to be buying new stuff.
csb/tl;dr time!
i have been this way forever, although only recently bought a gas gun to fill the long range requirement
i don't really have.
i have been shooting handguns and shotguns for decades but don't live near someplace to shoot long range.
the reason i bought a gas gun at all was mostly as a fuck off to looming gun control.
since i was buying a gas gun, i decided to add long range capability at the same time.
figures that would end up being the most expensive choice.
i do own 3 handguns, because i still have my first p226 bought in 1992, which has no rail and is now retired.
otherwise i only own (currently):
1 primary sidearm - sig sauer p226 legion 9mm (both rx and xray3 slides)
1 back up sidearm - sig sauer p229 enhanced elite 9mm (customized with both rx and xray3 slides)
1 shotgun - mossberg 500 variant 12ga.
1 trail or bugout rifle - ruger 10/22 takedown lite. .22lr
1 hunting rifle - winchester model 88 lever gun .308 (inherited from my dad).
1 long range rifle: fn scar 20s 7.62x51mm (.308).
ihmo, the ruger or mossberg cannot be significantly improved upon by spending more when it comes to reliability and flexibility.
the problem with the long range rifle is that there many things you need besides practice to maximize your capabilities and consistency.
for handguns or shotguns, you need a gun, ammo, targets, and training time. that is pretty much it.
once you buy a long range precision rifle, you still need...
primary optic - Leupold MK5HD 3.6-18x44 H59
optic mount - Bobro Engineering Scar dual lever mount
bipod - Harris/Larue SBRM and Accu-Tac SR-5 G2 w/spiked feet.
rifle sling - Blue Force Gear VCAS
shooting bag - Precision Underground 3D ELR and Armageddon Pint-Sized Gear Game Changer (Sticky)
tripod and mount - Really Right Stuff TVC-34 mk2, Versa adapter, Anvil-30 head
weapon light - Surefire x400u
rangefinder/ballistic calculator- Sig Sauer Kilo2400ABS
nv scope - Sightmark Wraith HD
nv pointer/illuminator/laser - Steiner DBAL-D2
hard case - SKB iSeries custom case
soft case - Fieldline range bag, VISM drag bag/shooting mat for field, and a First Spear R37 rifle wrap for compact carry)
spotting scope - Leupold MK4 12-40x60 (field) and Svbony SV46 20-60x80 (range - video).
something to haul all this shit around - RIDGID toolbox system
as you can see, none of my choices can be considered compromises except the wraith.
i don't hunt or know of any shooting ranges that allow night shooting, but i wanted some basic capability if i could ever afford it.
maybe i will have to hunt at night after the country breaks down under oppressive globalist rule.
or maybe i am just using that as an excuse to buy tacticool shit i'll never need. much more likely
where possible, everything is also made here in the USA.
the <$250 svbony scope is actually awesome for the price. i bought it before the whole chinama issue.
of course some of these things like a rangefinder or tripod might be considered "optional", but not if you want the
best chance at a one shot hit under any conditions, without requiring known distance and a clear line of sight from a prone position (or something to shoot off).
i practice calculating range and drop manually with a mildot master and then confirm with the rangefinder.
i am pretty confident i can get close if how big the target is, but is something is only 1 moa in my scope and i don't know exactly how big?
for example i would have a hard time telling a 24" circle from a 30" circle and at 600+ i wouldn't bet on a hit on the first shot.