some bailing twine duct tape , some bubble gum and good as new . best of luck getting a new one .
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I agree with an earlier poster. I don’t think you did anything wrong. Lots of causes. NF replaces this one very quickly. I expect the same out of Spuhr.Well then……
Not in the automotive and diesel industry
Wut. No. WhyFinger Tight is the rule if not you know its used.
If you check my photo on the thin side clamp the holes are round ,the thicker side clamp they elongated the holes. I believe they did that because if the holes and threaded holes are misalign any when you tighten the screws the V shape clamp tightens bearing on the upper or lower side of the screws creating pressure on the clamp to split.Numbers for reference
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Granted it has been a few years since I was rebuilding automatic transmissions for a living, and a few years since i went to school to rebuild transmissions/transaxles, and a few years since I have gone to Ford, GM, or Chysler specific training for autos, and a few years since my ASE certification in automatic transmission repair expired. But of the dozens of autos I rebuilt from pretty much every manufacturer, I can't remember coming across a rebuild manual that didn't specify wet torque for the valve body bolts. Which are basically the only bolts in most automatics, and highly critical for torque value and sequence. Granted maybe all those people taught me to do it wrong, but I have a little more trust in them than you.
So, if Honda of America wants to do it different, they can, but what I said is how the industry as whole does it, and trains to do it. You sure you weren't just doing it wrong?
That is mostly false. Honda actually used to be pretty well known for transmission problems. Are you telling me that was you? Honda wouldn't give a shit what a remanufacture was doing, unless it was one rebuilding all their fucked up transmissions from the early 2000s in which case they don't have much credibility as a power house of longevity and reliability. Feel free to to tell me which trans and what bolts your manuel said to torque dry and what manual it was that said that. Or what it was that Honda has stated all their torque values are assumed to be dry.No, Honda is right regardless of what "the industry as a whole" does. Honda's reliability and longevity is proof of that. And I'm positive we were doing it right, or Honda would have stopped us cold.
PS, there are way more bolts than just the valve body is a transmission. But I digress.....
The missing detailI even told him I bought in off a guy on here used and it wasn’t an issue
PotentiallyMissing detail?
Potentially
Not knowing what previous owner did to it
Not saying its that. But maybe
Got yaPotentially
Not knowing what previous owner did to it
Not saying its that. But maybe
That is mostly false. Honda actually used to be pretty well known for transmission problems. Are you telling me that was you? Honda wouldn't give a shit what a remanufacture was doing, unless it was one rebuilding all their fucked up transmissions from the early 2000s in which case they don't have much credibility as a power house of longevity and reliability. Feel free to to tell me which trans and what bolts your manuel said to torque dry and what manual it was that said that. Or what it was that Honda has stated all their torque values are assumed to be dry.
Most pan and pump bolts are on the outside and not particularly critical to torque.
It can happen, particularly if someone keeps rechecking the torque. Mine cracked because my fix it stick broke and locked up with no give so I overtorqued it. They sent me a new one at no charge because they are an awesome company. Contact the distributor, they will probably sort you outNever had a spuhr fail or crack. Not sure what to say other than are u sure it was inch lbs?
Interestingly enough, one of mine was also a A-0064 from lot # SZQS (mine was on a 4302, but the same part is used on all the 4xx2 and 4006 series)....bad lot? (from a sample size of 2, very hard to say...but I'd be curious how many other failures might be from the same lot....)Numbers for reference
View attachment 7647023
Mile high didn’t ask for the numbers for reference and I offered to give to them if they wanted. They didn’t seem to surprises that it was crackedInterestingly enough, one of mine was also a A-0064 from lot # SZQS (mine was on a 4302, but the same part is used on all the 4xx2 and 4006 series)....bad lot? (from a sample size of 2, very hard to say...but I'd be curious how many other failures might be from the same lot....)
Just waiting for area419 to make an awesome, but expensive steel upgrade clamp bar.Mile high didn’t ask for the numbers for reference and I offered to give to them if they wanted. They didn’t seem to surprises that it was cracked
Considering most don't run into the issue and Spuhr does replace it in the rare event it does happen, I can't really see anyone investing in providing an "upgrade" anytime soon.Just waiting for area419 to make an awesome, but expensive steel upgrade clamp bar.
How about just rings and mountJust waiting for area419 to make an awesome, but expensive steel upgrade clamp bar.
Mike is on the forums I bet. Probably saw the post, or has warr'd them before.Mile high didn’t ask for the numbers for reference and I offered to give to them if they wanted. They didn’t seem to surprises that it was cracked
It happens. And generally gets posted because people are like wtf i paid $400 and it crackedMike is on the forums I bet. Probably saw the post, or has warr'd them before.
I see sooooo, exactly what I said.Honda contracts OEMs do reman the transmissions in the warranty cycle. These aren't places where you can just drive up and have one installed in your car. The units come only from authorized Honda dealers and go to Honda SPPC distribution centers to be shipped only to authorized dealers.
OEM means using production equipment like Cleco and Atlas Copco DC nutrunners, OEM Honda parts, Honda OEM engineering drawings and assembly guides (straight from Honda's Russel's Point transmission plant, Honda part inspection and evaluation guides and mandatory replacement bulletins, etc. You know, things that service techs like you never have access to.
The Honda P7W 5AT debacle is over 20 years old. Unlike the rest of the auto industry they learn and improve. Try again.
Here’s a pic of the one I cracked and one of my other mounts. Different numbers and the cracked is a 4 screw base, other is a 5.Wait. They increased tbe thickness again?
Yours appears to be the reinforced version.....
What we both had break are the upgraded clamps. The old style were flat. As noted above in some other picsSo I thought the new one they sent me was thicker, but I just put my dial calipers on it in several different areas and it appears that they are the same. Shit! So yes evidently the one that is cracked in the picture must be the newer one. I guess I'll try it again and see what happens. I only had 20 rounds thru the rifle when I noticed the cracks. Maybe this is not the mount for a .50 BMG. I know when we put it on we used a $300 in. lbs. torque wrench and we've mounted at least 10 to 15 scopes. My buddy who mounted it is ADD as hell and very careful. We mounted a 5-25 TT in that Spuhr mount. I purchased that Spuhr from mile high about 6 to 8 months ago. Does anyone know when the thicker version started shipping on the new mounts?
I had 2 break when mounting scopes!!!Asked a question a while back on spuhr mounts cracking. Just generally curious how big of an issue it was. While mounting my 4th spuhr mount today I got to find out for myself….
This SP-4002 appears to have the beefed up cross bar for mounting to the picatinny rail but I actually felt it crack.
Tightened each bolt so it was just slightly loose. Then slid mount forward on the picatinny rail so it contacted the rail in the front of the mount. Barely snugged each screw up so the rail was perfectly set against the picatinny. Tightened all screws to 10 inch lbs to confirm it was seated good. Then was going to step to 25 inch lbs, then finally 45 inch lbs lbs.
Tightened 1, 2, 3, 4 to 10 inch lbs in correct pattern. Same for 25
Inch lbs. Prior to getting to 25 lbs on screw 3 I felt the screw just barely give up a bit on the torque wrench. Thought “damn that felt weird…”
Look over the mount by that screw and found the crack.
I’m a bit let down to say the least. Not pissed but this definitely didn’t help my confidence in the mount….
I have a set of NF rings I hope will work until I can fix the spuhr
So for those wondering….yup they crack, even the beefed up ones. And for those wondering I’m not an amateur gun guy by any means. Mounted a ton of scopes. Blue loctite was used as recommended in the spuhr manual. Wrench used is a wheeler fat wrench. And I can confirm the torque was where it should have been when tightened. I’ve done enough I can almost guess the torque I’m applying. So it wasn’t overtorqued.
I even looked for cracks in the mount after receiving it. As it was pre owned and I read about the issues with some cracking. So it was confirmed good or it would have been a conversation with the seller at that time
Just another 2021 kick in the nuts. As everything I’ve touched lately has broke…so why not this
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Those are the ones I’ve seen cracked. Before they beefed them up. Which I was surprised this one cracked. Same for the beefed up ring screws. This one is beefed up there as well
I’ve been having such shit luck lately I can break just about anything no matter how good it is
Hi!Asked a question a while back on spuhr mounts cracking. Just generally curious how big of an issue it was. While mounting my 4th spuhr mount today I got to find out for myself….
This SP-4002 appears to have the beefed up cross bar for mounting to the picatinny rail but I actually felt it crack.
Tightened each bolt so it was just slightly loose. Then slid mount forward on the picatinny rail so it contacted the rail in the front of the mount. Barely snugged each screw up so the rail was perfectly set against the picatinny. Tightened all screws to 10 inch lbs to confirm it was seated good. Then was going to step to 25 inch lbs, then finally 45 inch lbs lbs.
Tightened 1, 2, 3, 4 to 10 inch lbs in correct pattern. Same for 25
Inch lbs. Prior to getting to 25 lbs on screw 3 I felt the screw just barely give up a bit on the torque wrench. Thought “damn that felt weird…”
Look over the mount by that screw and found the crack.
I’m a bit let down to say the least. Not pissed but this definitely didn’t help my confidence in the mount….
I have a set of NF rings I hope will work until I can fix the spuhr
So for those wondering….yup they crack, even the beefed up ones. And for those wondering I’m not an amateur gun guy by any means. Mounted a ton of scopes. Blue loctite was used as recommended in the spuhr manual. Wrench used is a wheeler fat wrench. And I can confirm the torque was where it should have been when tightened. I’ve done enough I can almost guess the torque I’m applying. So it wasn’t overtorqued.
I even looked for cracks in the mount after receiving it. As it was pre owned and I read about the issues with some cracking. So it was confirmed good or it would have been a conversation with the seller at that time
Just another 2021 kick in the nuts. As everything I’ve touched lately has broke…so why not this
View attachment 7646548
View attachment 7646549
View attachment 7646550
View attachment 7646551
View attachment 7646962
Same torque wrench you used.
So I thought the new one they sent me was thicker, but I just put my dial calipers on it in several different areas and it appears that they are the same. Shit! So yes evidently the one that is cracked in the picture must be the newer one. I guess I'll try it again and see what happens. I only had 20 rounds thru the rifle when I noticed the cracks. Maybe this is not the mount for a .50 BMG. I know when we put it on we used a $300 in. lbs. torque wrench and we've mounted at least 10 to 15 scopes. My buddy who mounted it is ADD as hell and very careful. We mounted a 5-25 TT in that Spuhr mount. I purchased that Spuhr from mile high about 6 to 8 months ago. Does anyone know when the thicker version started shipping on the new mounts?