some bailing twine duct tape , some bubble gum and good as new . best of luck getting a new one .
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Rifle Scopes Well I cracked a Spuhr mount…!!
- Thread starter hafejd30
- Start date
I agree with an earlier poster. I don’t think you did anything wrong. Lots of causes. NF replaces this one very quickly. I expect the same out of Spuhr.
I used to do OEM automatic transmission remanufacturing for Honda of America.
I'll let them know that you said to change all their engineering and assembly policies.......
Granted it has been a few years since I was rebuilding automatic transmissions for a living, and a few years since i went to school to rebuild transmissions/transaxles, and a few years since I have gone to Ford, GM, or Chysler specific training for autos, and a few years since my ASE certification in automatic transmission repair expired. But of the dozens of autos I rebuilt from pretty much every manufacturer, I can't remember coming across a rebuild manual that didn't specify wet torque for the valve body bolts. Which are basically the only bolts in most automatics, and highly critical for torque value and sequence. Granted maybe all those people taught me to do it wrong, but I have a little more trust in them than you.
So, if Honda of America wants to do it different, they can, but what I said is how the industry as whole does it, and trains to do it. You sure you weren't just doing it wrong?
So, if Honda of America wants to do it different, they can, but what I said is how the industry as whole does it, and trains to do it. You sure you weren't just doing it wrong?
If you check my photo on the thin side clamp the holes are round ,the thicker side clamp they elongated the holes. I believe they did that because if the holes and threaded holes are misalign any when you tighten the screws the V shape clamp tightens bearing on the upper or lower side of the screws creating pressure on the clamp to split.
No, Honda is right regardless of what "the industry as a whole" does. Honda's reliability and longevity is proof of that. And I'm positive we were doing it right, or Honda would have stopped us cold.
PS, there are way more bolts than just the valve body is a transmission. But I digress.....
I know on engines, the practice was assume wet torque unless specified because it was a lot less likely to snap a head stud with the wet spec than running a dry spec on a wet stud/bolt. If Honda does things differently for their transmissions, that is fine because everyone working on them was on the same page. No right or wrong about it.
Long story short, just don't assume shit, go by the manual, call a manufacture if no manual present or if instructions are unclear. No need to get your dick stuck in a ceiling fan.
Long story short, just don't assume shit, go by the manual, call a manufacture if no manual present or if instructions are unclear. No need to get your dick stuck in a ceiling fan.
That is mostly false. Honda actually used to be pretty well known for transmission problems. Are you telling me that was you? Honda wouldn't give a shit what a remanufacture was doing, unless it was one rebuilding all their fucked up transmissions from the early 2000s in which case they don't have much credibility as a power house of longevity and reliability. Feel free to to tell me which trans and what bolts your manuel said to torque dry and what manual it was that said that. Or what it was that Honda has stated all their torque values are assumed to be dry.
Most pan and pump bolts are on the outside and not particularly critical to torque.
I don’t know squat about Honda….
However,
I did just get off the phone with Corey at Mile High and he’s sending a replacement out today. Very professional and courteous
I even told him I bought in off a guy on here used and it wasn’t an issue
Now fingers crossed the new one doesn’t do the same thing. Otherwise I may need to just grab some steel badgers for this rifle
However,
I did just get off the phone with Corey at Mile High and he’s sending a replacement out today. Very professional and courteous
I even told him I bought in off a guy on here used and it wasn’t an issue
Now fingers crossed the new one doesn’t do the same thing. Otherwise I may need to just grab some steel badgers for this rifle
Got ya
Right it was mentioned earlier that they may have caused the weakening and I just completed the break. Which is more than likely what occurred. Or my base is maybe angled enough to cause tension to the plate and snap it. I’ll know when I install the new one I guess
Honda contracts OEMs do reman the transmissions in the warranty cycle. These aren't places where you can just drive up and have one installed in your car. The units come only from authorized Honda dealers and go to Honda SPPC distribution centers to be shipped only to authorized dealers.
OEM means using production equipment like Cleco and Atlas Copco DC nutrunners, OEM Honda parts, Honda OEM engineering drawings and assembly guides (straight from Honda's Russel's Point transmission plant, Honda part inspection and evaluation guides and mandatory replacement bulletins, etc. You know, things that service techs like you never have access to.
The Honda P7W 5AT debacle is over 20 years old. Unlike the rest of the auto industry they learn and improve. Try again.
It can happen, particularly if someone keeps rechecking the torque. Mine cracked because my fix it stick broke and locked up with no give so I overtorqued it. They sent me a new one at no charge because they are an awesome company. Contact the distributor, they will probably sort you out
Interestingly enough, one of mine was also a A-0064 from lot # SZQS (mine was on a 4302, but the same part is used on all the 4xx2 and 4006 series)....bad lot? (from a sample size of 2, very hard to say...but I'd be curious how many other failures might be from the same lot....)
Mile high didn’t ask for the numbers for reference and I offered to give to them if they wanted. They didn’t seem to surprises that it was cracked
Just waiting for area419 to make an awesome, but expensive steel upgrade clamp bar.
Considering most don't run into the issue and Spuhr does replace it in the rare event it does happen, I can't really see anyone investing in providing an "upgrade" anytime soon.
It happens. And generally gets posted because people are like wtf i paid $400 and it cracked
Mile High is the place to go to so yeah he'd be familiar. Same with getting replacement torx screws for spuhrs
I see sooooo, exactly what I said.
LOL, We used Honda manuals too. Nutrunners and cleo. LMAO, well I am sure those expensive automatic torque wrenches made all the difference in the world. They are nice and fast, I used one at a shop that specialized in transmission rebuilding. I didn't want to work there because they wanted me to rebuild only one kind of transmission. Shops that specialize in transmission building and rebuilding use them because they are fast and idiot proof, not because they are the only way, or make the transmission better.
BTW 2010 was not over 20 years ago. 2021-2010=11 I thought as an engineer who has probably never actually rebuilt anything, you would appreciate some math.
Recall: 1.5 million Honda vehicles—Automatic transmission problem
Honda is recalling approximately 1.5 million vehicles in the United States, including the 2005 to 2010 four-cylinder Accord, 2007 to 2010 CR-V, and 2005 to 2008 Honda Element. The recall also includes 135,142 Honda vehicles in Canada and 760,000 in...
www.consumerreports.org
I was running a Spuhr mount on my Cadex Tremor .50 BMG and it cracked all along the side that clamps to the rail. I torqued everything properly. This is a known problem, Spuhr has now increased the thickness of this part. I contacted Mile High where I bought the mount and they shipped me the newer thicker part within days. Hopefully this will fix this issue for me and everyone else who has had a similar issue.
Wait. They increased tbe thickness again?
Yours appears to be the reinforced version.....
Yours appears to be the reinforced version.....
Here’s a pic of the one I cracked and one of my other mounts. Different numbers and the cracked is a 4 screw base, other is a 5.
The 5 screw is a touch thicker and less surface area on the clamp. At least it appears that way to the naked eye.
The cracked is a sp 4002. I think the other is a sp 4001.
So I thought the new one they sent me was thicker, but I just put my dial calipers on it in several different areas and it appears that they are the same. Shit! So yes evidently the one that is cracked in the picture must be the newer one. I guess I'll try it again and see what happens. I only had 20 rounds thru the rifle when I noticed the cracks. Maybe this is not the mount for a .50 BMG. I know when we put it on we used a $300 in. lbs. torque wrench and we've mounted at least 10 to 15 scopes. My buddy who mounted it is ADD as hell and very careful. We mounted a 5-25 TT in that Spuhr mount. I purchased that Spuhr from mile high about 6 to 8 months ago. Does anyone know when the thicker version started shipping on the new mounts?
What we both had break are the upgraded clamps. The old style were flat. As noted above in some other pics
I’m not a mechanical engineer but just looking at it I’d guess it’s not only the surface area between circle points when tightened (where the arrow is) but also the angle of curtain bases causing the clamp to continue to separate as it’s tightened vs tightening squarely against the base
The 5 screw clamp is obviously a shorter mount/clamp and seems it would be harder to break in the exact came scenario
Has anyone had their spuhr QD mount crack?
I have once torqued mine to 5Nm/44inlb and it did not crack, but the QD levers became unworkable. The function returned at little bit over 2Nm, I think I have mine set 2,3Nm/20inlb.
I think this cracking might come from a bad batch of metal, it aint something new. But I think the hardness of the mount makes more like to be more zero repeatable, and also gives better mounting solution for the scope body since the part does not give in but holds its form over the scope body, thus not creating a singular pressure point that "digs in" to the scope.
I do not know a shit about metallurgy but just how I suspect things are.
I have once torqued mine to 5Nm/44inlb and it did not crack, but the QD levers became unworkable. The function returned at little bit over 2Nm, I think I have mine set 2,3Nm/20inlb.
I think this cracking might come from a bad batch of metal, it aint something new. But I think the hardness of the mount makes more like to be more zero repeatable, and also gives better mounting solution for the scope body since the part does not give in but holds its form over the scope body, thus not creating a singular pressure point that "digs in" to the scope.
I do not know a shit about metallurgy but just how I suspect things are.
I had 2 break when mounting scopes!!!Asked a question a while back on spuhr mounts cracking. Just generally curious how big of an issue it was. While mounting my 4th spuhr mount today I got to find out for myself….
This SP-4002 appears to have the beefed up cross bar for mounting to the picatinny rail but I actually felt it crack.
Tightened each bolt so it was just slightly loose. Then slid mount forward on the picatinny rail so it contacted the rail in the front of the mount. Barely snugged each screw up so the rail was perfectly set against the picatinny. Tightened all screws to 10 inch lbs to confirm it was seated good. Then was going to step to 25 inch lbs, then finally 45 inch lbs lbs.
Tightened 1, 2, 3, 4 to 10 inch lbs in correct pattern. Same for 25
Inch lbs. Prior to getting to 25 lbs on screw 3 I felt the screw just barely give up a bit on the torque wrench. Thought “damn that felt weird…”
Look over the mount by that screw and found the crack.
I’m a bit let down to say the least. Not pissed but this definitely didn’t help my confidence in the mount….
I have a set of NF rings I hope will work until I can fix the spuhr
So for those wondering….yup they crack, even the beefed up ones. And for those wondering I’m not an amateur gun guy by any means. Mounted a ton of scopes. Blue loctite was used as recommended in the spuhr manual. Wrench used is a wheeler fat wrench. And I can confirm the torque was where it should have been when tightened. I’ve done enough I can almost guess the torque I’m applying. So it wasn’t overtorqued.
I even looked for cracks in the mount after receiving it. As it was pre owned and I read about the issues with some cracking. So it was confirmed good or it would have been a conversation with the seller at that time
Just another 2021 kick in the nuts. As everything I’ve touched lately has broke…so why not this
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Hi!Asked a question a while back on spuhr mounts cracking. Just generally curious how big of an issue it was. While mounting my 4th spuhr mount today I got to find out for myself….
This SP-4002 appears to have the beefed up cross bar for mounting to the picatinny rail but I actually felt it crack.
Tightened each bolt so it was just slightly loose. Then slid mount forward on the picatinny rail so it contacted the rail in the front of the mount. Barely snugged each screw up so the rail was perfectly set against the picatinny. Tightened all screws to 10 inch lbs to confirm it was seated good. Then was going to step to 25 inch lbs, then finally 45 inch lbs lbs.
Tightened 1, 2, 3, 4 to 10 inch lbs in correct pattern. Same for 25
Inch lbs. Prior to getting to 25 lbs on screw 3 I felt the screw just barely give up a bit on the torque wrench. Thought “damn that felt weird…”
Look over the mount by that screw and found the crack.
I’m a bit let down to say the least. Not pissed but this definitely didn’t help my confidence in the mount….
I have a set of NF rings I hope will work until I can fix the spuhr
So for those wondering….yup they crack, even the beefed up ones. And for those wondering I’m not an amateur gun guy by any means. Mounted a ton of scopes. Blue loctite was used as recommended in the spuhr manual. Wrench used is a wheeler fat wrench. And I can confirm the torque was where it should have been when tightened. I’ve done enough I can almost guess the torque I’m applying. So it wasn’t overtorqued.
I even looked for cracks in the mount after receiving it. As it was pre owned and I read about the issues with some cracking. So it was confirmed good or it would have been a conversation with the seller at that time
Just another 2021 kick in the nuts. As everything I’ve touched lately has broke…so why not this
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View attachment 7646550
View attachment 7646551
That should never happen with Spuhr equipment.
I live in Sweden and I strongly rekommend to contact Håkan Spuhr himself.
Here is the link.
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Greetings from Northern Sweden
Thomas
Must have been counterfeit. Everyone knows Nightforces never fail.
I also had a Spuhr crack.
OP I had a spuhr crack a couple months ago the exact same way yours did, my pictures would look identical to yours. It was my oldest spuhr out of 4, and was purchased new by me, always torqued the same way with the same wrench.
My theory is that mine was likely already cracked while on the rifle, because when I went to remove it I noticed that the screw didn't feel as tight as the others. I only noticed the crack when I put the scope back on and snugged up the screws finger tight, but I hadn't started applying torque yet. I confirm my torque every so often, so sometime between the last check and removing the scope from the rifle, the clamping bar cracked.
This happened in a training class and luckily I was able to pull the clamping bar off a similar spuhr and run it on mine so no down time that day. I just chalked it up to sometimes chit happens.. it hasn't stopped me from buying more spuhrs. I will say though that all of my other spuhrs are the 5 Bolt type and the one that cracked was the 4 bolt. No idea if that is related as there are a lot of other factors at play.
FWIW Mile High replaced the part super fast at no cost under warranty. I called them up and they knew exactly what was broken and sent me a new one asap.
My theory is that mine was likely already cracked while on the rifle, because when I went to remove it I noticed that the screw didn't feel as tight as the others. I only noticed the crack when I put the scope back on and snugged up the screws finger tight, but I hadn't started applying torque yet. I confirm my torque every so often, so sometime between the last check and removing the scope from the rifle, the clamping bar cracked.
This happened in a training class and luckily I was able to pull the clamping bar off a similar spuhr and run it on mine so no down time that day. I just chalked it up to sometimes chit happens.. it hasn't stopped me from buying more spuhrs. I will say though that all of my other spuhrs are the 5 Bolt type and the one that cracked was the 4 bolt. No idea if that is related as there are a lot of other factors at play.
FWIW Mile High replaced the part super fast at no cost under warranty. I called them up and they knew exactly what was broken and sent me a new one asap.
- Nov 3, 2010
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