Gunsmithing Well it’s stuck in the bedding

[Wiley2019]

Not sure where I went wrong, I watched so many videos, got advice on here, took every precaution I could, and now the barreled action is stuck in the stock.

Here’s the setup zermatt origin, manners TA elitetac, Hawkins Hunter dbm

Here’s what I did: taped a few inches forward of the action to center the barrel. Taped the stock from front of recoil lug hole and about 4” forward, (regular tan masking tape if that matters). I’ll attach a photo of where it’s all taped so it makes sense. Taped front and sides of recoil lug. Clay in the trigger hole, clay in the trigger pin slots, clay in the little hole where the lug is pinned. Waxed areas in the mag well and trigger well and everywhere else on the stock I didn’t want bedding. One shot on the action and barrel up to the taped part beyond the tape on the stock (2 coats with time between them). Bedded with probed for action, pillars and bottom metal.

Here’s where I’m at: Action is stuck in stock. Now the bottom metal came free (although it was tight) so I’m fairly confident the release agent worked just fine. But the action absolutely will not budge. I’ve cleaned up the excess that was in the mag well hole and it has come off the action quite easily, and not quite as easily in the stock parts that were waxed but rough, couple hits with the chisel fixed that real quick though. I’m assuming the issue is just a very tight bed because everything is coming off the areas I can access that had release agent on them, but I could be wrong of course. I just feel like if i pull any harder I’m risking breaking the stock, it’s getting some flex in the forarm with the ammount of pressure I’m trying already. I suppose the bedding could have run up the barrel channel past the tape but that seems unlikely given that it only gooped out the first inch or so infront of the lug. I can’t image where there could be a mechanical lock given the careful clay application and visually unobstructed feed lips. I’ve been bouncing the rifle on it’s butt pad on the ground with little to no progress made. I’ve been tapping at the accessible parts of the bottom of the action with a punch but I don’t think I can hit it any harder without tearing up the metal. So I’m at a loss at this point. Everything I’ve read on here says put it in the freezer, but mine isn’t big enough for a rifle so I’d have to find a friend with room to spare that wouldn’t mind me using theirs, and my deadblow hammer is inside a pickup that’s at the ford house for repairs.

So my question is if anyone has any suggestions to try before I go asking around to use some freezer space or is that absolutely the best way to go about this?

 

[Threadcutter308]

Put it in the freezer overnight. Get some longer action screws from the hardware store, install them and tap on the screws with a small ballpien hammer. It might take a while, but it should break free.

Oh, and don’t use a deadblow hammer. A (metal) ballpien hammer has the right kind of mechanical impulse from the strike(s) to break things loose.

 

[trob]

Bummer. The freezer might work.

I would leave it permanently glued in, before I would cut a manners stock off. It’s stuck, but it’s still doing what it’s supposed to. The barrel tape might be a pain in the ass if you go that route

hopefully, you can get it off.

 

[Wiley2019]

Bummer. The freezer might work.

I would leave it permanently glued in, before I would cut a manners stock off. It’s stuck, but it’s still doing what it’s supposed to. The barrel tape might be a pain in the ass if you go that route

hopefully, you can get it off.

Leaving it in permanently wouldn’t do me much good without a trigger, that’d be a high dollar piece of decoration

 

[trob]

Leaving it in permanently wouldn’t do me much good without a trigger, that’d be a high dollar piece of decoration

Yea, that makes things difficult

 

[Aftermath]

Put it in the freezer over night. Take it out and go right into the bedroom. Grab the barrel and swing it like your chopping wood, hitting the butt against the bed, stock side up. Hit it with force, don’t be a pussy.

 

[LRI]

LRI SuperDuty Series: Professional Gunsmithing Bedding Removal Gantry. (BRG)

The "LRI SuperDuty Series" of products are made to answer the need for commercial-grade tools specific to the gunsmithing industry. These tools have been vetted in our own facility for years (sometimes in excess of a decade) prior to being offered to the public. The LRI Bedding Removal...

www.longriflesinc.com

 

[iceng]

Is the rear tang area free ? Dont bend / wobble it as you can crack the bedding work in the recpil lug area, but can you detect any movement ? If so, it will come out, you need a corect pulling jig.

LRI linked a decent one. I use a different technique / style, but that will certainly work.

Providing you didnt glue it in hard, and thrn you rip the pic rail and screw threads from your receiver. That would be a bad day.

 

[Supersubes]

Not sure where I went wrong, I watched so many videos, got advice on here, took every precaution I could, and now the barreled action is stuck in the stock.

Here’s the setup zermatt origin, manners TA elitetac, Hawkins Hunter dbm

Here’s what I did: taped a few inches forward of the action to center the barrel. Taped the stock from front of recoil lug hole and about 4” forward, (regular tan masking tape if that matters). I’ll attach a photo of where it’s all taped so it makes sense. Taped front and sides of recoil lug. Clay in the trigger hole, clay in the trigger pin slots, clay in the little hole where the lug is pinned. Waxed areas in the mag well and trigger well and everywhere else on the stock I didn’t want bedding. One shot on the action and barrel up to the taped part beyond the tape on the stock (2 coats with time between them). Bedded with probed for action, pillars and bottom metal.

Here’s where I’m at: Action is stuck in stock. Now the bottom metal came free (although it was tight) so I’m fairly confident the release agent worked just fine. But the action absolutely will not budge. I’ve cleaned up the excess that was in the mag well hole and it has come off the action quite easily, and not quite as easily in the stock parts that were waxed but rough, couple hits with the chisel fixed that real quick though. I’m assuming the issue is just a very tight bed because everything is coming off the areas I can access that had release agent on them, but I could be wrong of course. I just feel like if i pull any harder I’m risking breaking the stock, it’s getting some flex in the forarm with the ammount of pressure I’m trying already. I suppose the bedding could have run up the barrel channel past the tape but that seems unlikely given that it only gooped out the first inch or so infront of the lug. I can’t image where there could be a mechanical lock given the careful clay application and visually unobstructed feed lips. I’ve been bouncing the rifle on it’s butt pad on the ground with little to no progress made. I’ve been tapping at the accessible parts of the bottom of the action with a punch but I don’t think I can hit it any harder without tearing up the metal. So I’m at a loss at this point. Everything I’ve read on here says put it in the freezer, but mine isn’t big enough for a rifle so I’d have to find a friend with room to spare that wouldn’t mind me using theirs, and my deadblow hammer is inside a pickup that’s at the ford house for repairs.

So my question is if anyone has any suggestions to try before I go asking around to use some freezer space or is that absolutely the best way to go about this?

I like to think my bedding jobs are pretty good, I was taught by someone who was known for them. With that, the barreled action will not lift out of the bedding upon completion, it just isn't happening. Dead blow hammer to the underside of the barrel, just forward of the forend. I hold the rifle with my left hand encircling the barrel and forend(rifle upside down), butt on my left thigh, swing the hammer with my right. The barreled action doesn't come flying out, and you might not even detect movement, the sound it makes is pretty unmistakable though. If you used alcohol wipes or q tips to clean up the squish, its possible for the alcohol to degrease the action up near the stock line. So some bedding may have adhered to the action.

Also, depending on how you taped the lug and breech area, the bedding could be hanging on to it, which means the tape will be left in the stock and youre working against the tape adhesive.

Imo, if the barreled action just lifts out of cured bedding, you used way too much release agent, which floated the barrel action over the bedding material.

 

[Maurygold]

mini-chassis not sounding like a terrible idea around now does it?

 

[Wiley2019]

I like to think my bedding jobs are pretty good, I was taught by someone who was known for them. With that, the barreled action will not lift out of the bedding upon completion, it just isn't happening. Dead blow hammer to the underside of the barrel, just forward of the forend. I hold the rifle with my left hand encircling the barrel and forend(rifle upside down), butt on my left thigh, swing the hammer with my right. The barreled action doesn't come flying out, and you might not even detect movement, the sound it makes is pretty unmistakable though. If you used alcohol wipes or q tips to clean up the squish, its possible for the alcohol to degrease the action up near the stock line. So some bedding may have adhered to the action.

Also, depending on how you taped the lug and breech area, the bedding could be hanging on to it, which means the tape will be left in the stock and youre working against the tape adhesive.

Imo, if the barreled action just lifts out of cured bedding, you used way too much release agent, which floated the barrel action over the bedding material.

I bet that’s exactly what happened. A couple of my qtip wipes seemed to leave too much alcohol and make the excess seem runny, but at that point there wasn’t much that could be done to fix it.

 

[tk427]

Place a long ratchet extention / wooden dowel / long rod into the action.

Fix stock into a padded Vice etc

Wiggle / pull between barrel and rod

Don't be afraid to tap the action with a rubber mallet to loosen, tap longer action screws etc before

Add in freezing and some force you'll pull them apart

Worst case you damage the bedding, then rout it out and start over

 

[Bradu]

mini-chassis not sounding like a terrible idea around now does it?

It will all work out. He's had a few recommendations on how to address the issue.

 

[Wiley2019]

LRI SuperDuty Series: Professional Gunsmithing Bedding Removal Gantry. (BRG)

The "LRI SuperDuty Series" of products are made to answer the need for commercial-grade tools specific to the gunsmithing industry. These tools have been vetted in our own facility for years (sometimes in excess of a decade) prior to being offered to the public. The LRI Bedding Removal...

www.longriflesinc.com

Is this an in stock item or is there a lead time after the order? Seems like a lot better idea than beating on long bolts in the action threads.

 

[Supersubes]

Is this an in stock item or is there a lead time after the order? Seems like a lot better idea than beating on long bolts in the action threads.

Go get your dead blow out of the truck, the barreled action is coming out way easier than you think.

 

[chevy_man]

Don't beat on the bolts......hit the stock, right where the bottom metal goes, use a piece of wood as an interface if you don't have a soft faced hammer.....

You'll get a newtons cradle effect and the action should come popping out.

View attachment 8222085

Do this. Use a decent size metal hammer. Dead blows are good for some things, but you want to give it maximum shock and vibration.

You won't break the stock.

 

[LRI]

Is this an in stock item or is there a lead time after the order? Seems like a lot better idea than beating on long bolts in the action threads.

On the shelf and ready to bounce.

 

[Wiley2019]

Well good news, it’s out, bad news is it looks like I’m doing it again, or at least partially. Did the deadblow to the mag well area, deadblow on the barrel itself, eventually I just got mad and started beating the hell out of anything I could hit. Pretty sizeable chunk just south of the recoil lug on the side came out with the rifle, probably where I’d gotten too much rubbing alcohol as someone suggested earlier.I’ll attach a photo.

I’m going to clean up everything ahead of the lug, that was just overflow, as for the rest of the bad stuff, do I just start filing and drimmeling away the bad bedding? I need to redo at least the tang pad as well because half of that came out with the action so I need to strip and redo that. Also suggestions on getting the big chunk off the action, I can obviously do it manually but is there any sort of solvent that will soften it up?

At least I got it out, but damn I did a bad job on this one

 

[tk427]

Clean out and start over - for best end results and finish

As for attached to the action: scrape bulk, the soak in acetone. It may affect the action finish but it will break down the bonds in the bedding compound

Second option. Scrape then cleanup with wet and dry, 800 ish grit, it's kinder but way longer solution

Others will have a way more Evolved solution than mine so please take as given

 

[surgeon260]

Cheers to you for trying it yourself. I'm too much of a pussy to do my own bedding.

 

[Wiley2019]

Clean out and start over - for best end results and finish

As for attached to the action: scrape bulk, the soak in acetone. It may affect the action finish but it will break down the bonds in the bedding compound

Second option. Scrape then cleanup with wet and dry, 800 ish grit, it's kinder but way longer solution

Others will have a way more Evolved solution than mine so please take as given

The recoil lug recess is tight tight, rifle can be turned upside down, shaken, and slapped on without it budging or falling out. Would it be worth leaving that small part as is and working from there back removing everything and starting over?

 

[camocorvette]

Couple things.

When bedding a rifle stock. The area to be bedded should be roughed up and even drilled or cut to create areas of mechanical adhesion.

What I did was probably excessive.. but I've never had it crack or chip off.

It looks like it wasn't fully prepped and that's why some separated by the lug area.

The lug is a tight area. Make sure it doesn't taper the wrong way and create a mechanical lock when bedded. I like to put a thickness of frog tape on the front of the lug.

You can also make a tape dam in front of the recoil lug, in the barrel channel. Then you don't have the sploosh out in front.

Test fit. Test fit. Test fit.

If you don't have @LongRifles Inc. Equipment and experience test fit everything. Stage everything so the actual bedding process is not rushed.

I clean everything with glass cleaner in a can, then wipe down with lint free towel and blow dry with air compressor. I actually used black boot polish on the last rifle I did and it worked great as a release agent. There's the Brownell stuff that is blue and drys to a film. Lotta options. I've never had luck with one shot and I wouldn't use it for a release agent.

Just make sure you put plenty on, in the right spots.

The first rifle I did I thought I glued it in forever... a couple well placed wacks and it was out.

 

[XP1K]

Put it in the freezer over night. Take it out and go right into the bedroom. Grab the barrel and swing it like your chopping wood, hitting the butt against the bed, stock side up. Hit it with force, don’t be a pussy.

My first bedding job was my dad's late 70's 700 bdl. I thought for sure I'd glued that sucker in the stock. The method you described is exactly what I did. Once I got a little gap under the tang on the reciever I was able to wiggle it out.

 

[Thump_rrr]

I’ve only done 2 bedding jobs but on both of them the only release agent I used was pure carnauba paste wax.
They came out with virtually no effort.

 

[Wiley2019]

Cheers to you for trying it yourself. I'm too much of a pussy to do my own bedding.

I just don’t like paying for things I can (probably) do myself I know I’m not going to slap together a 1/4moa rifle, but I’m pretty confident I can get it shooting better than I can shoot.

 

[simpletoms]

As mentioned… “I like to put a thickness of frog tape on the front of the lug.” that‘ll help keep it from locking up…

 

[iceng]

On the shelf and ready to bounce.

On the shelf and ready to fix your fuk-ups.

FIFY.

 

[Yondering]

I clean everything with glass cleaner in a can, then wipe down with lint free towel and blow dry with air compressor. I actually used black boot polish on the last rifle I did and it worked great as a release agent. There's the Brownell stuff that is blue and drys to a film. Lotta options. I've never had luck with one shot and I wouldn't use it for a release agent.

+100 to this. I read the thread title and thought "I bet he used One Shot". Sure nuff...
I've known a few people to get stocks stuck & partially glued in with that stuff, much like you did. Other people say it works for them, but why take the chance when other methods are easy and work better?

I can see how boot polish would work fine - it's wax. I used to use that Brownells stuff, but switched to Johnson's paste wax (for cars) and have never had a "glued in" scare with that stuff. Just apply it like you would on your car's paint, except don't buff it so aggressively when you remove it. I've used an old can of TreWax carnuba floor wax too; same good results.

The Brownells blue stuff is OK but I don't like it as much - it dries as a film with some thickness to it, so that can affect the bedding job (easy to get it thicker in one spot than another), and it's more of a pain to get off. Also if you don't read the directions (like a buddy of mine) and do the bedding before the release agent fully dries, it'll stick. That one of my buddies was so bad he gave up, and actually just gave me the whole rifle glued into the stock. Had to beat on it enough to basically shatter the bedding in that walnut stock before the action would come out.

 

[pmclaine]

Give it to @BurtG for 5 minutes.

Guaranteed you will get it back in two pieces again, maybe more.

 

[iceng]

Devcon + one shot. Never failed me yet.

 

[max1840]

I've done 2 bedding jobs. A Remington 788 about 35 years ago with accraglass and it's kitted release agent and a manners 2 weeks ago. I used Mclube that i purchased through LRI figuring if it's good enough for them it's perfect for me. I like the spray release agent and the pro bed epoxy.

 

[LRI]

OP:

-Gonna try and help. If this is redundant, my apologies. I did not read through every response.

Reference the circled area in the photo I copied from you, and pay close attention to the surface finish of the substrate (rifle stock). It appears as though nothing was ever there, and that is because the resin never had a "tooth" to adhere to. Based on this, I would speculate that the entire job is flawed.

Adhesion is a big deal, and high-viscosity, high-solids content resin systems are fussy about this. The material has a bit of a skin/meniscus to it that sometimes doesn't want to break so that it'll actually stick to the surfaces. On the action side, this works to your advantage since you are casting the shape. On the stock, though, it's pure poison.

Things that have helped me:

• Prior to doing any grinding, sanding, etc.., get some hot/soapy water (Dawn soap!) and wash the entire stock. A reasonably stiff bristle brush in the inletted areas is a good idea as well.
• Dry the stock in the sun, in front of a fan, or inside of a car on a hot day. I avoid compressed air as there is always the risk of some residual oil being in the airline from the compressor. (A baseball filter on the end of the hose helps to mitigate this.)
• With the stock clean/dry, scuff every surface the resin will adhere to with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Take careful observance to ensure you cut the gloss on the painted surfaces, as the resin will struggle to adhere to it.
• If your hands/sandpaper are clean/oil-free, there is no need to expose the rifle stock to any additional solvents such as alky, brake clean, acetone, etc...
• A glass plate is where you want to mix your epoxy. Use a stick to mix initially, then knead it with a 3" wide putty knife/applicator. Keep it spread in a thin film. It will mitigate heat buildup and give you additional time so you don't have to rush.
• Glove up a hand with a sterile rubber/nitryl glove, take a finger dab worth of resin and rub it into the pores of the stock where you scuffed everything up. This ensures it actually bites into the substrate.
• You don't have to do this, but it helps to buy a low-temperature hot air gun from a hobby shop that sells RC airplane stuff. The one you want is for applying covering to the wings/fuselage of a plane. It'll only heat up to a couple hundred degrees. DO NOT use one of those megawatt, "Gawhh-Zirrah" killers from Dewalt or whoever. It'll fry the resin almost instantly. We just want to warm it up a bit to lower its viscosity so that air can rise to the surface and blister off.
• If you elect to warm it up, stir the resin around in the stock as you do. It'll help pull trapped air to the surface. Small circular motion. Avoid folding it over onto itself, as that creates the problem you're trying to solve. The epoxy will start to run on you as you do this, so be mindful of that and have your prep work done in such a way that it captures the resin. Failure to do this will result in one hell of a gawd awful mess. (Watch the linked video I did a decade ago (4m mark), and you'll see...)
• Once you install the barreled action into the stock, leave a small meniscus of resin along the edge of the receiver/barrel where you make your casting. (Again, reference the video towards the end on the gun being bedded that used a Borden action. Notice how the stuff climbs up the side of the receiver a bit) Any/All resin systems have a degree of shrinkage as part of the curing process. The fillet/meniscus will prevent you from having an undercut/sag along the mating edges. It's not a bad idea to pile some extra up front on the barrel cylinder as the stuff tends to creep under the barrel pad) Dressing it up with a hobby knife or sanding block is pretty easy during cleanup.
• When it's time to pull the receiver, I smack the snot out of it with a wooden hammer handle. I'm not nice about it. The shock from impact helps to pop the "sticktion" between the resin and the mating surface on the receiver. The mold release I use/sell does a killer job, but it still helps to beat on it, too. -On that note. The mold release I use is aerosol. If you are doing this at home, find an easy-to-manipulate, 8-year-old kid and tell 'em to shake the can till the ball stops rattling. The point here is to introduce the silicone back into the carrier/agent (I think it's ether)
• If you are using modeling clay to plug up your action, throw it in the microwave for a few minutes before you use it. It'll be much easier to work with. Unfortunately, "Klean Klay" went out of business 12 or so years ago. They made the best stuff for bedding stocks. A close second is some shit that I bought in France that is used by the auto industry for modeling car bodies. It's ridiculously expensive, though.

Hope this helps.

C.

 

[powdahound76]

Give it to @BurtG for 5 minutes.

Guaranteed you will get it back in two pieces again, maybe more.

Only guy in history to bust an AI action by looking at it…..

I kid and fortunately, no torch, 300+ HP 4x4 tractor, or calf puller needed for the OP, so his goods are safe from BurtG.
For now……

 

[cornhusker86]

OP:

-Gonna try and help. If this is redundant, my apologies. I did not read through every response.

Reference the circled area in the photo I copied from you, and pay close attention to the surface finish of the substrate (rifle stock). It appears as though nothing was ever there, and that is because the resin never had a "tooth" to adhere to. Based on this, I would speculate that the entire job is flawed.

Adhesion is a big deal, and high-viscosity, high-solids content resin systems are fussy about this. The material has a bit of a skin/meniscus to it that sometimes doesn't want to break so that it'll actually stick to the surfaces. On the action side, this works to your advantage since you are casting the shape. On the stock, though, it's pure poison.

Things that have helped me:

• Prior to doing any grinding, sanding, etc.., get some hot/soapy water (Dawn soap!) and wash the entire stock. A reasonably stiff bristle brush in the inletted areas is a good idea as well.
• Dry the stock in the sun, in front of a fan, or inside of a car on a hot day. I avoid compressed air as there is always the risk of some residual oil being in the airline from the compressor. (A baseball filter on the end of the hose helps to mitigate this.)
• With the stock clean/dry, scuff every surface the resin will adhere to with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Take careful observance to ensure you cut the gloss on the painted surfaces, as the resin will struggle to adhere to it.
• If your hands/sandpaper are clean/oil-free, there is no need to expose the rifle stock to any additional solvents such as alky, brake clean, acetone, etc...
• A glass plate is where you want to mix your epoxy. Use a stick to mix initially, then knead it with a 3" wide putty knife/applicator. Keep it spread in a thin film. It will mitigate heat buildup and give you additional time so you don't have to rush.
• Glove up a hand with a sterile rubber/nitryl glove, take a finger dab worth of resin and rub it into the pores of the stock where you scuffed everything up. This ensures it actually bites into the substrate.
• You don't have to do this, but it helps to buy a low-temperature hot air gun from a hobby shop that sells RC airplane stuff. The one you want is for applying covering to the wings/fuselage of a plane. It'll only heat up to a couple hundred degrees. DO NOT use one of those megawatt, "Gawhh-Zirrah" killers from Dewalt or whoever. It'll fry the resin almost instantly. We just want to warm it up a bit to lower its viscosity so that air can rise to the surface and blister off.
• If you elect to warm it up, stir the resin around in the stock as you do. It'll help pull trapped air to the surface. Small circular motion. Avoid folding it over onto itself, as that creates the problem you're trying to solve. The epoxy will start to run on you as you do this. So, be mindful of that and have your prep work done in such a way that it captures the resin. Failure to do this will result in one hell of a gawd awful mess.
• Once you install the barreled action into the stock, leave a small meniscus of resin along the edge of the receiver/barrel where you make your casting. Any/All resin systems have a degree of shrinkage as part of the curing process. The fillet/meniscus will prevent you from having an undercut/sag along the mating edges. Dressing it up with a hobby knife or sanding block is pretty easy during cleanup.
• If you are using modeling clay to plug up your action, throw it in the microwave for a few minutes before you use it. It'll be much easier to work with. Unfortunately, "Klean Klay" went out of business 12 or so years ago. They made the best stuff for bedding stocks. A close second is some shit that I bought in France that is used by the auto industry for modeling car bodies. It's ridiculously expensive, though.

Hope this helps.

C.

View attachment 8222719

Thanks for posting this Chad.

 

[Wiley2019]

On the shelf and ready to bounce.

order placed for one of those as well as y’all’s release agent. Got this one out but the tool seems like it’ll be handy on the redo and future projects

 

[Wiley2019]

OP:

-Gonna try and help. If this is redundant, my apologies. I did not read through every response.

Reference the circled area in the photo I copied from you, and pay close attention to the surface finish of the substrate (rifle stock). It appears as though nothing was ever there, and that is because the resin never had a "tooth" to adhere to. Based on this, I would speculate that the entire job is flawed.

Adhesion is a big deal, and high-viscosity, high-solids content resin systems are fussy about this. The material has a bit of a skin/meniscus to it that sometimes doesn't want to break so that it'll actually stick to the surfaces. On the action side, this works to your advantage since you are casting the shape. On the stock, though, it's pure poison.

Things that have helped me:

• Prior to doing any grinding, sanding, etc.., get some hot/soapy water (Dawn soap!) and wash the entire stock. A reasonably stiff bristle brush in the inletted areas is a good idea as well.
• Dry the stock in the sun, in front of a fan, or inside of a car on a hot day. I avoid compressed air as there is always the risk of some residual oil being in the airline from the compressor. (A baseball filter on the end of the hose helps to mitigate this.)
• With the stock clean/dry, scuff every surface the resin will adhere to with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Take careful observance to ensure you cut the gloss on the painted surfaces, as the resin will struggle to adhere to it.
• If your hands/sandpaper are clean/oil-free, there is no need to expose the rifle stock to any additional solvents such as alky, brake clean, acetone, etc...
• A glass plate is where you want to mix your epoxy. Use a stick to mix initially, then knead it with a 3" wide putty knife/applicator. Keep it spread in a thin film. It will mitigate heat buildup and give you additional time so you don't have to rush.
• Glove up a hand with a sterile rubber/nitryl glove, take a finger dab worth of resin and rub it into the pores of the stock where you scuffed everything up. This ensures it actually bites into the substrate.
• You don't have to do this, but it helps to buy a low-temperature hot air gun from a hobby shop that sells RC airplane stuff. The one you want is for applying covering to the wings/fuselage of a plane. It'll only heat up to a couple hundred degrees. DO NOT use one of those megawatt, "Gawhh-Zirrah" killers from Dewalt or whoever. It'll fry the resin almost instantly. We just want to warm it up a bit to lower its viscosity so that air can rise to the surface and blister off.
• If you elect to warm it up, stir the resin around in the stock as you do. It'll help pull trapped air to the surface. Small circular motion. Avoid folding it over onto itself, as that creates the problem you're trying to solve. The epoxy will start to run on you as you do this. So, be mindful of that and have your prep work done in such a way that it captures the resin. Failure to do this will result in one hell of a gawd awful mess.
• Once you install the barreled action into the stock, leave a small meniscus of resin along the edge of the receiver/barrel where you make your casting. Any/All resin systems have a degree of shrinkage as part of the curing process. The fillet/meniscus will prevent you from having an undercut/sag along the mating edges. Dressing it up with a hobby knife or sanding block is pretty easy during cleanup.
• If you are using modeling clay to plug up your action, throw it in the microwave for a few minutes before you use it. It'll be much easier to work with. Unfortunately, "Klean Klay" went out of business 12 or so years ago. They made the best stuff for bedding stocks. A close second is some shit that I bought in France that is used by the auto industry for modeling car bodies. It's ridiculously expensive, though.

Hope this helps.

C.

View attachment 8222719

Thanks for all the detail, I’m going to pay close attention to your advice on the redo

 

[Precision Underground]

OP:

-Gonna try and help. If this is redundant, my apologies. I did not read through every response.

Reference the circled area in the photo I copied from you, and pay close attention to the surface finish of the substrate (rifle stock). It appears as though nothing was ever there, and that is because the resin never had a "tooth" to adhere to. Based on this, I would speculate that the entire job is flawed.

Adhesion is a big deal, and high-viscosity, high-solids content resin systems are fussy about this. The material has a bit of a skin/meniscus to it that sometimes doesn't want to break so that it'll actually stick to the surfaces. On the action side, this works to your advantage since you are casting the shape. On the stock, though, it's pure poison.

Things that have helped me:

• Prior to doing any grinding, sanding, etc.., get some hot/soapy water (Dawn soap!) and wash the entire stock. A reasonably stiff bristle brush in the inletted areas is a good idea as well.
• Dry the stock in the sun, in front of a fan, or inside of a car on a hot day. I avoid compressed air as there is always the risk of some residual oil being in the airline from the compressor. (A baseball filter on the end of the hose helps to mitigate this.)
• With the stock clean/dry, scuff every surface the resin will adhere to with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Take careful observance to ensure you cut the gloss on the painted surfaces, as the resin will struggle to adhere to it.
• If your hands/sandpaper are clean/oil-free, there is no need to expose the rifle stock to any additional solvents such as alky, brake clean, acetone, etc...
• A glass plate is where you want to mix your epoxy. Use a stick to mix initially, then knead it with a 3" wide putty knife/applicator. Keep it spread in a thin film. It will mitigate heat buildup and give you additional time so you don't have to rush.
• Glove up a hand with a sterile rubber/nitryl glove, take a finger dab worth of resin and rub it into the pores of the stock where you scuffed everything up. This ensures it actually bites into the substrate.
• You don't have to do this, but it helps to buy a low-temperature hot air gun from a hobby shop that sells RC airplane stuff. The one you want is for applying covering to the wings/fuselage of a plane. It'll only heat up to a couple hundred degrees. DO NOT use one of those megawatt, "Gawhh-Zirrah" killers from Dewalt or whoever. It'll fry the resin almost instantly. We just want to warm it up a bit to lower its viscosity so that air can rise to the surface and blister off.
• If you elect to warm it up, stir the resin around in the stock as you do. It'll help pull trapped air to the surface. Small circular motion. Avoid folding it over onto itself, as that creates the problem you're trying to solve. The epoxy will start to run on you as you do this. So, be mindful of that and have your prep work done in such a way that it captures the resin. Failure to do this will result in one hell of a gawd awful mess.
• Once you install the barreled action into the stock, leave a small meniscus of resin along the edge of the receiver/barrel where you make your casting. Any/All resin systems have a degree of shrinkage as part of the curing process. The fillet/meniscus will prevent you from having an undercut/sag along the mating edges. Dressing it up with a hobby knife or sanding block is pretty easy during cleanup.
• If you are using modeling clay to plug up your action, throw it in the microwave for a few minutes before you use it. It'll be much easier to work with. Unfortunately, "Klean Klay" went out of business 12 or so years ago. They made the best stuff for bedding stocks. A close second is some shit that I bought in France that is used by the auto industry for modeling car bodies. It's ridiculously expensive, though.

Hope this helps.

C.

View attachment 8222719

Tagging this gold so I can refer to it next time I bed a rifle!

 

[LRI]

Thanks for posting this Chad.

 

[VJJPunisher]

I did a bed job once, on a Thai hooker, used anal eaze as a release agent, taped off her face, still got hydro locked in it, beat it with a wood board but it came out

 

[pmclaine]

I did a bed job once, on a Thai hooker, used anal eaze as a release agent, taped off her face, still got hydro locked in it, beat it with a wood board but it came out

Getting a hooker and you end up beating off. Shame.

 

[cas6969]

Last one I did wouldn't come out. Wasn't glued in, it was just so tight it had to come out juuust right. And the stock is such a floppy bendy twizzler POS that it just wouldn't. Finally I had the genius Idea to put the long action bolt in the short bolt hole and hammer on it. Which worked.
And bent the bolt like a cheap galvanized nail. Doh!

I know it wasn't glued in because when I stuck it back in the stock again, I couldn't get it out again! M@#^%%#!
Had to get the roto-tool and make a little more slop.

 

[pmclaine]

Last one I did wouldn't come out. Wasn't glued in, it was just so tight it had to come out juuust right. And the stock is such a floppy bendy twizzler POS that it just wouldn't. Finally I had the genius Idea to put the long action bolt in the short bolt hole and hammer on it. Which worked.
And bent the bolt like a cheap galvanized nail. Doh!

I know it wasn't glued in because when I stuck it back in the stock again, I couldn't get it out again! M@#^%%#!
Had to get the roto-tool and make a little more slop.

I’ve got some rifles that need work.

Are you still available?

 

[cas6969]

First one I ever did.... well, I bedded the action and floated the barrel, that went fine. Still didn't like how it shot. So I pressure bedded the forend tip. Still wasn't happy. So I full-length bedded the rest of it. And it shot amazing. But the barrel was stuck but good. Heated, cooled, banged the snot out of it, didn't let go. Then I thought "Why do I care?" So I shot it that way for years. Eventually stopped shooting it and finally put it up for consignment at a store a family member worked at. After it had been there a while I remember that it was glued together! Shit. Called the shop and said .."Um... is my rifle still there? Do us both a favor and take a screw driver and see if you can take the stock off."
Luckily it came off. Only regret selling that rifle, oh... just every time I take far more expensive stuff to the range that don't shoot half as good.


Send 'er over!

 

[XP1K]

First one I ever did.... well, I bedded the action and floated the barrel, that went fine. Still didn't like how it shot. So I pressure bedded the forend tip. Still wasn't happy. So I full-length bedded the rest of it. And it shot amazing. But the barrel was stuck but good. Heated, cooled, banged the snot out of it, didn't let go. Then I thought "Why do I care?" So I shot it that way for years. Eventually stopped shooting it and finally put it up for consignment at a store a family member worked at. After it had been there a while I remember that it was glued together! Shit. Called the shop and said .."Um... is my rifle still there? Do us both a favor and take a screw driver and see if you can take the stock off."
Luckily it came off. Only regret selling that rifle, oh... just every time I take far more expensive stuff to the range that don't shoot half as good.


Send 'er over!

View attachment 8223100

I've got a 10/22T, the one with the heavy hammer forged barrel and the laminate stock. I've debated bedding the barrel in like that. That one little action screw just isn't up to the task of holding on to all that barrel.

 

[Wiley2019]

OP:

-Gonna try and help. If this is redundant, my apologies. I did not read through every response.

Reference the circled area in the photo I copied from you, and pay close attention to the surface finish of the substrate (rifle stock). It appears as though nothing was ever there, and that is because the resin never had a "tooth" to adhere to. Based on this, I would speculate that the entire job is flawed.

Adhesion is a big deal, and high-viscosity, high-solids content resin systems are fussy about this. The material has a bit of a skin/meniscus to it that sometimes doesn't want to break so that it'll actually stick to the surfaces. On the action side, this works to your advantage since you are casting the shape. On the stock, though, it's pure poison.

Things that have helped me:

• Prior to doing any grinding, sanding, etc.., get some hot/soapy water (Dawn soap!) and wash the entire stock. A reasonably stiff bristle brush in the inletted areas is a good idea as well.
• Dry the stock in the sun, in front of a fan, or inside of a car on a hot day. I avoid compressed air as there is always the risk of some residual oil being in the airline from the compressor. (A baseball filter on the end of the hose helps to mitigate this.)
• With the stock clean/dry, scuff every surface the resin will adhere to with 60 or 80-grit sandpaper. Take careful observance to ensure you cut the gloss on the painted surfaces, as the resin will struggle to adhere to it.
• If your hands/sandpaper are clean/oil-free, there is no need to expose the rifle stock to any additional solvents such as alky, brake clean, acetone, etc...
• A glass plate is where you want to mix your epoxy. Use a stick to mix initially, then knead it with a 3" wide putty knife/applicator. Keep it spread in a thin film. It will mitigate heat buildup and give you additional time so you don't have to rush.
• Glove up a hand with a sterile rubber/nitryl glove, take a finger dab worth of resin and rub it into the pores of the stock where you scuffed everything up. This ensures it actually bites into the substrate.
• You don't have to do this, but it helps to buy a low-temperature hot air gun from a hobby shop that sells RC airplane stuff. The one you want is for applying covering to the wings/fuselage of a plane. It'll only heat up to a couple hundred degrees. DO NOT use one of those megawatt, "Gawhh-Zirrah" killers from Dewalt or whoever. It'll fry the resin almost instantly. We just want to warm it up a bit to lower its viscosity so that air can rise to the surface and blister off.
• If you elect to warm it up, stir the resin around in the stock as you do. It'll help pull trapped air to the surface. Small circular motion. Avoid folding it over onto itself, as that creates the problem you're trying to solve. The epoxy will start to run on you as you do this, so be mindful of that and have your prep work done in such a way that it captures the resin. Failure to do this will result in one hell of a gawd awful mess. (Watch the linked video I did a decade ago (4m mark), and you'll see...)
• Once you install the barreled action into the stock, leave a small meniscus of resin along the edge of the receiver/barrel where you make your casting. (Again, reference the video towards the end on the gun being bedded that used a Borden action. Notice how the stuff climbs up the side of the receiver a bit) Any/All resin systems have a degree of shrinkage as part of the curing process. The fillet/meniscus will prevent you from having an undercut/sag along the mating edges. It's not a bad idea to pile some extra up front on the barrel cylinder as the stuff tends to creep under the barrel pad) Dressing it up with a hobby knife or sanding block is pretty easy during cleanup.
• When it's time to pull the receiver, I smack the snot out of it with a wooden hammer handle. I'm not nice about it. The shock from impact helps to pop the "sticktion" between the resin and the mating surface on the receiver. The mold release I use/sell does a killer job, but it still helps to beat on it, too. -On that note. The mold release I use is aerosol. If you are doing this at home, find an easy-to-manipulate, 8-year-old kid and tell 'em to shake the can till the ball stops rattling. The point here is to introduce the silicone back into the carrier/agent (I think it's ether)
• If you are using modeling clay to plug up your action, throw it in the microwave for a few minutes before you use it. It'll be much easier to work with. Unfortunately, "Klean Klay" went out of business 12 or so years ago. They made the best stuff for bedding stocks. A close second is some shit that I bought in France that is used by the auto industry for modeling car bodies. It's ridiculously expensive, though.

Hope this helps.

C.

View attachment 8222719

Followed your instructions and I’m happy to report it came out pretty well, considering I’m the one who did it. Your release spray worked perfectly and didn’t leave any imperfections on the bedding surface like a wax can do. Couple good hammer smacks and it all popped free. I still have some room for improvement obviously but it came out a lot better than the first rifle I did, and a hell of a lot better than the failed attempt that started the thread on this rifle. Thank you, and everyone else who chimed in, for the help to make this project a success (at least visually, we’ll see how she shoots on Monday) Learned a lot and now I’ll be more confident moving forward on future beddings. Thanks everyone!

 

[carbonbased]

Here’s my master plan:

1. Read up extensively on gunsmithing best practices & watch videos
2. Assemble all the materials LRI suggests and painstakingly label them in order of operation
3. Send rifle into LRI lol

 

[Stoweit]

Place a long ratchet extention / wooden dowel / long rod into the action.

Fix stock into a padded Vice etc

Wiggle / pull between barrel and rod

Don't be afraid to tap the action with a rubber mallet to loosen, tap longer action screws etc before

Add in freezing and some force you'll pull them apart

Worst case you damage the bedding, then rout it out and start over

 

[Wiley2019]

Finally got the rifle out to the range and out of the 3 groups I shot after some rough sighting, I got 2 in the mid 0.5”s and I bet I can shrink that down a little with some trigger time and a better bipod.

Thanks again for everyone’s help as I’m sure yalls advice had a lot to do with where the groups ended up.

Rifle parts list incase anyone was curious
Bighorn Origin SA
19” CarbonSix 300wsm 1:10 Sendero
Manners TA Elite Tac
Leupold VX3 3.5-10x40 firedot
Hawkins Hunter DBM
Triggertech Special
Dead air Nomad 30

Rifle was built to be my handy Texas truck gun big enough for everything I encounter in my area. It also is going with my on an Arizona Coues deer hunt later this year as my other rifles have not been very weight conscious.

 

[Elite_KG]

The the one and only action I ever got stuck in a stock while bedding I uses Hornady One Shot lube. Never again!

I’ve prolly bedded 60 or more rifles. I had to beat the action out and broke the stock in the process. It was all repaired and rebedded. Shoots awesome now.

I don’t know if Hornady One shot is compatible with Devcon or if the alcohol cleaned up seeps down and rinses away the lube. Either way I will never try again to find out.

 

[Wiley2019]

The the one and only action I ever got stuck in a stock while bedding I uses Hornady One Shot lube. Never again!

I’ve prolly bedded 60 or more rifles. I had to beat the action out and broke the stock in the process. It was all repaired and rebedded. Shoots awesome now.

I don’t know if Hornady One shot is compatible with Devcon or if the alcohol cleaned up seeps down and rinses away the lube. Either way I will never try again to find out.

Agreed, I threw out the can of oneshot and used the McLube from LRI on the redo. Waited a couple hours for the epoxy to be a little more set before cleanup. Still had to beat the action out but it was due to a tight bedding job rather than sticking to the action. Shoots great and I will continue using the LRI release agent in the future.