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Wet vs. Dry Tumbling

Marksman_92

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 22, 2017
318
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So I am looking to buy a tumbler for cleaning brass and my biggest concern is neck tension. I am going with the Frankford Arsenal dry or wet given the feed back I get.

I have read that wet tumbling guys are having issues with "peened" necks and also it cleans the carbon residue to thoroughly from the necks. I have also seen that some guys tumble without using the stainless media and seems to work fine. What experience do you guys have and what do you recommend?
 
So you recommend dry tumbling then?

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Went with the dry tumbler. I would have considered the wet but I will be tumbling after I size to get the lube off and I didn't want to damage my case mouths after they have been sized. Also a lot easier to just run down to the basement and dry tumble real quick vs wet tumble, dry, separate pins, etc.
 
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I am new reloading and I only relaod 6.5CM (for now). I wet tumble using a FA tumbler and dry with a Cabela’s dehydrator I bought on sale.

To me, wet tumbling is like washing my clothes. I put the cases in the washer and then they go in the dryer. Seemed the normal order of things for me given my many years of doing laundry.

Lastly, would dry tumbling release lead dust? A sealed drum with water would contain those types of impurities.

I also wet tumble without ss pins after I resize to remove the Imperial Wax from the cases. I don’t mind the washing and drying process much. I just set it and do something else - either in the reloading bat cave or just something else in my house...like my laundry.
 
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I started wet tumbling this past weekend... amazing results. 200 pieces of 308 per batch with a Frankford dryer... easy... except I had 5 pins “escape” in the sink, with a garbage disposal. Need to pay more attention! Regarding mouth peening… I trim every load cycle no concerns.
 
I would say get a frankford vibratory tumbler and a cheap ultrasonic on Amazon.

Ultrasonic are nice, not only for brass, but small gun parts. Hate scrubbing that AR BCG? Throw that bitch in the ultrasonic. Tired of scrubbing out the barrel of a pistol? Ultrasonic. Precision rifle brass? Ultrasonic.

Noticing some rust on the dies because your skin oils and salts are taking their toll? Walnut media with some nufinish car polish cleans that right up. Have a metric fuck ton of pistol or 223? Vibratory.

They all have good uses and pros/cons. But you wont regret either of those 2 purchases.
 
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I have done wet and dry brass cleaning methods, dry tumbling in pet store walnut media simply works and is the least amount of work, the peened necks from wet tumbling with pins are the least of the wet tumbling problems, the total removal of carbon from inside the neck is the real problem, the carbon inside the neck acts as a release agent/lube when seating resulting in lower ES/SD.
 
I do both on rifle brass. My gas guns run with cans so wet tumbling is a no-brainer forbthem. I will decap the fired brass, clean the primer pocket then wet pin-tumble for 2-3hrs. I dry it overnight by putting it knock-down in plastic ammo trays from 45acp ammo and let it air-dry a couple days. I lube (Imperial) and size, then a quick trim in the Giraud. Brass then goes to the Lyman 1200 in corncob for 2-3 hours to remove remnant lube. Annealing every other firing before sizing.

Pistol brass just gets wet tumbled after decapping.
 
I wet tumble without pins, as no one has been able to explain to me what the pins actually accomplish except for cleaning more than is needed for practicality.

I also have dry tumble to get wax off without needing to dry.

And sometimes I don’t do either. Just wipe brass off with rag, size, then wipe down with acetone to clean wax off.

We only need to clean enough to not damage dies and chamber. Anything else is purely aesthetic.
 
I Use both, no effect on preformance that I can tell. I prefer the wet process and the cleaner and brighter brass. Dry works great, rice, corn cob, and walnut is cheap. Pick one and in a few years try the other.
 
I wet tumble all my pistol brass along with bulk 223 brass for my semi auto rifles. I don't use the SS pins anymore. I didn't see a difference and it's a mess to clean up. All my bolt action rifle brass gets dry tumbled.
 
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I used to dry tumble but the dust was so bad I had to stop that. Moved it to the garage and put the dryer sheets in with it but didn't make much of a diff to me. Cases did not come out near as clean as wet tumbling and the dust carries some bad crap in it. If you have kids, I would definitely not let them around the dust. And if you put a cleaner in the media, it can get clogged up in the brass.
 
I like my brass looking better than brand new. I de-cap. Wet tumble with stainless pins for 2.5 hours with 1 squirt of Dawn....if it will clean a duck...it will clean carbon muck....then a tiny scoop of LemiShine equivalent. I use the Hornday wet tumble media separator and really give it a whirl and all pins come out and don't go flying everywhere.

A cheap donkey cheap food dehydrator will air dry the brass in 10 mins...but I walk away for half an hour. Brass comes out shiny-er than a stripper pole in Hot-lanta. People complain about neck tension...and I can see their argument to a point. When it starts affecting my vertical spread at a mile...I'll think about changing my ways...but as long as that steel goes ding...and my ES's and SD's are single digits...I'll stick to making them look pretty.

I also towel off the sizing lube after each completed round...that's the final step of love for each long range round.
 
I like my brass looking better than brand new. I de-cap. Wet tumble with stainless pins for 2.5 hours with 1 squirt of Dawn....if it will clean a duck...it will clean carbon muck....then a tiny scoop of LemiShine equivalent. I use the Hornday wet tumble media separator and really give it a whirl and all pins come out and don't go flying everywhere.

A cheap donkey cheap food dehydrator will air dry the brass in 10 mins...but I walk away for half an hour. Brass comes out shiny-er than a stripper pole in Hot-lanta. People complain about neck tension...and I can see their argument to a point. When it starts affecting my vertical spread at a mile...I'll think about changing my ways...but as long as that steel goes ding...and my ES's and SD's are single digits...I'll stick to making them look pretty.

I also towel off the sizing lube after each completed round...that's the final step of love for each long range round.
And no dust
 
And no dust

And no dust...once I lived in an APT and I left the dry tumbler going while I went and worked out. When I came home the entire place was covered in dust because the lid had vibrated off. I sold two tumblers and bought a wet tumbler the next day. My OCD kicked in...and I was nakid and crying while cleaning the entire apartment at 3am....just kidding...maybe.
 
there is no dust with these and they clean better/faster than any other dry media...BUT....they "HAVE" to be these...most other buckwheat groats turn to dust when tumbled.


you told me to get these and so far they are working great. Bought two packages and have already tumbled thousands of 9mm and .223. ZERO dust.
 
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Do you run any kind of polish with the groats?

what @Kadams1563 said...i wet tumbled for 7yrs and was looking for ways to cut prep times when i came across using groats on another forum.

i run lyman tumblers they seem to work the best/fastest of the tumblers ive tried...i run the pro magnum 2500 with auto flow as my primary tumbler and keep a turbo 1200 as a back up....for the 1200 it takes one bag +or- a little and 1 cap of nu-finish(but i think any liquid car wax will work)when groats are new add a cap and tumble 15-30mins until no chunks then add a cap full every 4-5 tumbles or when brass is not as shinny...when you add a cap always tumble for 15-30mins before adding brass.

for the 2500 it takes 2 bags maybe a bit less...2 caps when groats are new everything else same as above...i always tumble with a used cut up dryer sheet it keeps the groats clean.

note...when my 2500 auto flow goes out ill replace it with the pro mag 2500...i dont use the auto flow its kind of a pain in the ass and its about $50 bucks more for it.
 
They work great! I’m a wet tumble convert....I run cap of nu-finish car wax when the brass stops coming out real shinny(every 4-5 tumbles)and a cut up dryer sheet every time.
Any issues with them plugging primer pockets or case mouths? The biggest downside to SS pins is they seem to catch sideways in 25 cal case mouths and some brands of 6.5mm brass.
 
I don't see much point in getting brass "like new" clean that wet tumbling accomplishes. Seems to be for pure vanity purposes, and comes with a few headaches.

Dry tumbling with rice is easy, no dust, and minimal effort. Gets it clean enough.
 
I switched over to wet tumbling with pins about 2 years ago because I was tired of the dust. My brass is the cleanest and shiniest it’s ever been.

I anneal first thing, and then FL resize, and then wet tumble so there is no worries about case lube.
 
Any issues with them plugging primer pockets or case mouths? The biggest downside to SS pins is they seem to catch sideways in 25 cal case mouths and some brands of 6.5mm brass.

when new youll get a few that get stuck in the pockets after a few tumbles they are very minimal...they do get in the cases but use a rotory media separator and you GTG....FYF i shoot 6mm small rifle primer brass so 6.5 with LRP probably not an issue.
 
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I prefer wet tumbling over dry tumbling. I use the Frankford Arsenal tumbler with the mesh screens to drain the water and rinse everything without the worry of lose pins getting everywhere. This is the procedure that works for me.

1) De-prime brass.
2) put brass in tumbler with steel pins.
3) put in one dishwasher pod. Yes! I said dishwasher pod. Don't knock it till you've tried it. The cheap generic pods are okay. If you think that they won't work for you then you can still use them in the dishwasher.
4) pour in water.
5) tumble for three hours.
6) remove cap from one end of the tumbler and replace with mesh screen.
7) pour water out of the end with the mesh screen.
8) while the end with the mesh screen is on the bottom, remove the opposite cap and replace with the other mesh screen.
9) fill 5 gallon bucket with water.
10) place tumbler in 5 gallon bucket of water.
11) move tumbler up and down in water to rinse the pins and the brass, changing water a few times.
12) dump pins and brass in a media separator and spin.
13) remove brass from media separator and place in case dryer for drying.

After the cases are dry, I lube and size as usual. To get the lubricant off of the cases, I wash them in hot soapy water and rinse. Then they go back in the case dryer.

I haven't had any problems with pins remaining in straight-walled pistol cases. The same is true with bottle-necked cases after a vigorous spinning in the case separator.

On the other hand, if your're worried about pins remaining in bottle-necked rifle cases, the case/media separator should take care of that.

As an extra precaution to prevent steel pins from remaining in the bottle-necked cases you can try one of two methods.

1) get a magnetic metal parts tray and tap the mouth of the case in the bottom of the tray. You can do this whether the case is dry or wet. The force of the tap causes the pin (if it's in there) to move down toward the case mouth. The magnetic surface also has the added benefit of pulling the pin. If a pin was inside of the case the magnetic surface will hold it in place to keep it from bouncing out of the tray.

2) Get a magnetic pickup tool and a carpenter nail. The size of the nail is determined by the length and caliber of the case. Get a nail that is narrow enough to fit inside the case mouth and allow for clearance of any pins adhering to the side of the nail. The nail also has to be long enough to touch the flash hole.

Next place the head of the nail on the flat end of the magnetic pickup tool. The nail, now that it's magnetized will pick up any pins remaining inside the cartridge case.

You don't have to use a magnetic pickup tool. That's what I have here and is a powerful magnet. You can use any flat magnet that will hold the nail and that is powerful enough to attract any metal pin remaining inside the case.

My Dillon dry tumbler is gathering dust now. I can never go back to dry tumbling. Too much dust.
 
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I prefer wet tumbling over dry tumbling. I use the Frankford Arsenal tumbler with the mesh screens to drain the water and rinse everything without the worry of lose pins getting everywhere. This is the procedure that works for me.

1) De-prime brass.
2) put brass in tumbler with steel pins.
3) put in one dishwasher pod. Yes! I said dishwasher pod. Don't knock it till you've tried it. The cheap generic pods are okay. If you think that they won't work for you then you can still use them in the dishwasher.
4) pour in water.
5) tumble for three hours.
6) remove cap from one end of the tumbler and replace with mesh screen.
7) pour water out of the end with the mesh screen.
8) while the end with the mesh screen is on the bottom, remove the opposite cap and replace with the other mesh screen.
9) fill 5 gallon bucket with water.
10) place tumbler in 5 gallon bucket of water.
11) move tumbler up and down in water to rinse the pins and the brass, changing water a few times.
12) dump pins and brass in a media separator and spin.
13) remove brass from media separator and place in case dryer for drying.

After the cases are dry, I lube and size as usual. To get the lubricant off of the cases, I wash them in hot soapy water and rinse. Then they go back in the case dryer.

I haven't had any problems with pins remaining in straight-walled pistol cases. The same is true with bottle-necked cases after a vigorous spinning in the case separator.

On the other hand, if your're worried about pins remaining in bottle-necked rifle cases, the case/media separator should take care of that.

As an extra precaution to prevent steel pins from remaining in the bottle-necked cases you can try one of two methods.

1) get a magnetic metal parts tray and tap the mouth of the case in the bottom of the tray. You can do this whether the case is dry or wet. The force of the tap causes the pin (if it's in there) to move down toward the case mouth. The magnetic surface also has the added benefit of pulling the pin. If a pin was inside of the case the magnetic surface will hold it in place to keep it from bouncing out of the tray.

2) Get a magnetic pickup tool and a carpenter nail. The size of the nail is determined by the length and caliber of the case. Get a nail that is narrow enough to fit inside the case mouth and allow for clearance of any pins adhering to the side of the nail. The nail also has to be long enough to touch the flash hole.

Next place the head of the nail on the flat end of the magnetic pickup tool. The nail, now that it's magnetized will pick up any pins remaining inside the cartridge case.

You don't have to use a magnetic pickup tool. That's what I have here and is a powerful magnet. You can use any flat magnet that will hold the nail and that is powerful enough to attract any metal pin remaining inside the case.

My Dillon dry tumbler is gathering dust now. I can never go back to dry tumbling. Too much dust.

This sounds like way to much of a PITA

With rice-
1- dump brass in tumbler
2- knock rice out after tumbling

Done
 
Wow.
That is a lot of work, especially if mitigating dust is a major requirement.

I like the look of some wet tumble brass I have seen I wouldn't lie. I don't like the amount of work involved.

The cheap pet store wallnut media has dust, there I said it.

I mitigate the dust by addind 2 parts nu finish one part mineral spirits and a used dryer sheet.

The first run of the new media extra ammounts are added to condition the media before use. After that it's not noticed much.

I clean a pot of brass for future use / storage and like a thin layer of wax for protection .
 
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Wow.
That is a lot of work, especially if mitigating dust is a major requirement.

I like the look of some wet tumble brass I have seen I wouldn't lie. I don't like the amount of work involved.

The cheap pet store wallnut media has dust, there I said it.

I mitigate the dust by addind 2 parts nu finish one part mineral spirits and a used dryer sheet.

The first run of the new media extra ammounts are added to condition the media before use. After that it's not noticed much.

I clean a pot of brass for future use / storage and like a thin layer of wax for protection .

One pro of the rice is ZERO dust. Go buy a sack of it and try it out. Rice is cheap

Edit- I could leave the top off the tumbler and would still be zero dust
 
I just don't see where you guys get the 'A lot of work' for wet tumbling.

Literally...I deprime my brass...which I do for wet or dry tumbling.

I throw the brass into the tumbler...so 5 seconds time.

I fill the tumbler with water....maybe 30 seconds of time.

I add a few drops of Dawn and a few grams of LemiShine.... so 5 seconds

I screw on the top....maybe 10 seconds.

I put tumbler on the rotary base and set the time and hit the start button....maybe 10 seconds.

I then GO DO SOMETHING ELSE for 2.5 hours....ANYTHING ELSE. Video games, laundry, looking at gun porn on the Hide...whatever.

Come back and pour water out in sink ...maybe 20 seconds if I go slow...including time to unscrew cap...and walk to sink...so let's say 45 seconds

Pour the contents of the tumbler into the Hornady media seperator with the plexiglass top....spin for 20-30 seconds.

Take the internal tray out of separator and walk to the food dehydrator...pour brass into food dehydrator and plug in.... so 30 more seconds.

Then I WALK AWAY and do other stuff....ANYTHING...look at more gun porn...kick the cat...take a shower...WHATEVER.

Come back....brass is dry...and hot to the touch....pour dry and pretty brass into an Akro bin and it is ready for the rest of the process.

I'd say equal to time as dry tumbling....with less effort...and I don't have to touch lead laden media...deal with dust...no matter how microscopic...

I put everything away nice and neat on a shelf and go about life.
 
I just don't see where you guys get the 'A lot of work' for wet tumbling.

Literally...I deprime my brass...which I do for wet or dry tumbling.

I throw the brass into the tumbler...so 5 seconds time.

I fill the tumbler with water....maybe 30 seconds of time.

I add a few drops of Dawn and a few grams of LemiShine.... so 5 seconds

I screw on the top....maybe 10 seconds.

I put tumbler on the rotary base and set the time and hit the start button....maybe 10 seconds.

I then GO DO SOMETHING ELSE for 2.5 hours....ANYTHING ELSE. Video games, laundry, looking at gun porn on the Hide...whatever.

Come back and pour water out in sink ...maybe 20 seconds if I go slow...including time to unscrew cap...and walk to sink...so let's say 45 seconds

Pour the contents of the tumbler into the Hornady media seperator with the plexiglass top....spin for 20-30 seconds.

Take the internal tray out of separator and walk to the food dehydrator...pour brass into food dehydrator and plug in.... so 30 more seconds.

Then I WALK AWAY and do other stuff....ANYTHING...look at more gun porn...kick the cat...take a shower...WHATEVER.

Come back....brass is dry...and hot to the touch....pour dry and pretty brass into an Akro bin and it is ready for the rest of the process.

I'd say equal to time as dry tumbling....with less effort...and I don't have to touch lead laden media...deal with dust...no matter how microscopic...

I put everything away nice and neat on a shelf and go about life.


If you have to write a novel about how to clean your brass it’s too much work. Reloading in general has enough steps in it already. By your time estimates you have 3 minutes to do all those steps besides waiting for it to tumble. I seriously doubt that.
 
If you have to write a novel about how to clean your brass it’s too much work. Reloading in general has enough steps in it already. By your time estimates you have 3 minutes to do all those steps besides waiting for it to tumble. I seriously doubt that.

It's very quick...I may have been too detailed on each little step. I could probably write a novel on how to open a can of Coke...that's just the way I am.

I dry tumbled for 3 DECADES....so I know both worlds. I know it comes down to a preference issue...and for me personally...I like wet tumbling a lot better. I find it less work for how I do wet....versus how I used to do dry.

I think the argument over neck tension between the two methods is a better argument than time. I have observed varying seating depth tensions when loading wet tumbled...but I've yet to actually see the difference on muzzle velocity or vertical spread at 1500+ yards. To each their own though. Do what makes ya happy. As long as it loads up a quality round that puts you on target...then either way is good.