When I started out trying to learn how to shoot in the wind, I began by zeroing, then simply shooting with a dead center hold, and observing deviations after the conditions before the shot. If you can shoot with both eyes open, you can also practice shifting between observing conditions with the one eye, and shooting with the other.
In essence, I was learning how that gun performed in accordance with those observable conditions. It goes along with the adage, "First, know your gun".
Next, I tried shifting my hold in accordance with my perception of the wind changes. I learned a lot about compensation, and also about my own perceptions.
Nothing is perfect, every time, everywhere. But with practice comes improvement. Better is good. It's all a matter of choices.
These days, I find my default zero, and simply change holds. It's instantaneous, as opposed to computation and application for dial inputs.
Plus, it reduces the confusion that ensues when one tries to return to the initial default dial setting, and goofs up. That can leave you dead in the water while trying to figure out your default zero all over again.
Conditions can change fast and leave you flatfooted with the perfectly applied new dial setting for a condition that's just finished changing again.
Anything you can do, you can do wrong. The less time you spend doing it wrong, the more time you have left to spend on improving that.
"Default zero" = best guesstimate of the proper aim point and dial setting during the prevailing condition, involves either sighter shots, or some guesswork during the initial shots of your string.
There are myriad ways to do it righter, but they take time, and time is the real equalizer.
My own shooting preferences involve firing strings of ten or twenty rounds at known distance, working under a time limit.
Greg