The case activated Hornandy is really nice.
I have one on my lee Classic turret.
I fondled my new brass for my upcoming barrel some more and modified a lee collet for 7-08 to do 7 Saum today.
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What did you do in the reloading room today?
- Thread starter Kisssofdeath
- Start date
The case activated Hornandy is really nice.
I have one on my lee Classic turret.
I fondled my new brass for my upcoming barrel some more and modified a lee collet for 7-08 to do 7 Saum today.
Today I set up my RL450 for 223 and cranked out a few rounds. 100 rounds goes fast compared to my previous Lee Classic Turret Press!! Shoulda done did a progressive press years ago LOL.
And the Dillon powder measure did extremely well with WC844 powder. Slightly better than +/- 0.1 grain on the handful I measured as I was going along.
'Murica
And the Dillon powder measure did extremely well with WC844 powder. Slightly better than +/- 0.1 grain on the handful I measured as I was going along.
'Murica
I am just getting set up. I decided to play with my charge master so I opened a new Lb. of H4895 and dumped about 1/3 of it into the hopper before I realized the drain was open.
How do you dispose of a big pile of contaminated powder?
How do you dispose of a big pile of contaminated powder?
Whys it contaminated? Keep the table surfaces clean and tidy and you can just scrape it back into the can.
Bench and floor still had some sawdust from reinforcing said bench before mounting the press. Was pretty clean but not "clean". Question still stands. Should I just douse it in water and throw it away?
??? So your saying I can reload powder contaminated with sawdust? That doesn't sound right. I think I will just get it soaking wet and dump it in the trash on garbage day.
Since you're throwing out unreasonable hypothetical questions just because....
1. Why does your reloading space have sawdust which was somehow allowed to mix with the powder?
1(a). Why didn't you clean the sawdust prior to reloading activities?
2. Why didn't you check all your fittings on your powder measure prior to use?
3. Why didn't you read the directions included with your powder measure prior to use?
4. Why did you ask for a way to dispose of "contaminated" powder with out disclosing the contaminant?
5. Why do you ask questions to which you likely know the answer, but just lack the confidence to execute?
Hypothetically.......
Good luck. Stay safe.
1) Because I just finished reinforcing it. This required wood and a saw.
1a) Because I wasn't planning on doing anything loading. Just to figure out how to work it.
2) At a quick glance it looked closed.
3) Because i'm a man so I threw the directions in the trash immediately. I bet you read the directions as opposed to just figuring it out like a man would do.
4) Because it doesn't matter what the contamination IS. It is contaminated thus I wont use it.
5) Just throwing a cup of gun powder in a trash bag doesn't take confidence. It would be an act of ignorance. Furthermore, I do not "KNOW" if static from the bag may touch it off, if getting it wet causes a reaction or if it requires hazmat disposal. Therefore I ask.
My only real mistake was not asking in the stupid question forums. People over there are nice unlike you. Dick. LOL
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Same. See. People act like its unusual.
EDIT: Write drain on the top of the hopper? I didn't get it at first but I totally get it now. That is actually a great idea. Thanks VSP! I will do it.
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@little_scrapper its nitrogen, throw it out on the lawn as fertilizer. Or better yet make a nice pile outside and throw a match on it for a show if you’ve never done so. Quick fingers though. You’ll see why it’s a burn and not an explosive though.
For the record, I am nice and I read directions so I don't contaminate my powder ????
Just like I didn't spill the magical fire sand called H335 when setting up my new auto powder drop today
Well Im new so... I am going to meticulously trickle up by using a tweezer to drop one kernel at a time till I am there. Auto powder thrower? Phht.
Very nice loading bench cl. Im not going to post pics because my room is the sux.
Very nice loading bench cl. Im not going to post pics because my room is the sux.
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I have no shame. My shit is in disarray right now because I'm moving presses around and whatnot. One day it'll be all nice and.... One day.... ???Well Im new so... I am going to meticulously trickle up by using a tweezer to drop one kernel at a time till I am there. Auto powder thrower? Phht.
Very nice loading bench cl. Im not going to post pics because my room is the sux.
Well, I loaded up an OCW test. 2 actually... one with FL sized brass and one with collet sized brass. Just wanna see what happens. I am running 175gr Nosler CCs with IMR 4064... a lot of 4064. My heaviest charge is 46 grains and slightly compressed. I may not shoot it if the lower charges show any pressure lol... I went up in .2 grain steps, well see.
I will be. I started at 44.8. I was using 178eldms last, and their node was like 45gr. So well see what happens... I may load down to 44.2 just to cast a wider net. But I want to get these around 2750fps + if possible.
Sweet reloading baby jesus.
22rf was inside 308 case.
Swaged onto stem.
What a rodeo.
Did finally manage 100 pcs of 308 and 350 of 223.
22rf was inside 308 case.
Swaged onto stem.
What a rodeo.
Did finally manage 100 pcs of 308 and 350 of 223.
@little_scrapper
Clear bins with 3x5 cards on the inside
Incase the blue tape on the outside gets rubbed off.
Make sure they stack when full and nest when empty.
My overflow 223 and 308 may have to go in 5 gallon buckets since all my bins are full for them.
@rookie101 made a good haul looks like.
Clear bins with 3x5 cards on the inside
Incase the blue tape on the outside gets rubbed off.
Make sure they stack when full and nest when empty.
My overflow 223 and 308 may have to go in 5 gallon buckets since all my bins are full for them.
@rookie101 made a good haul looks like.
Made a custom, low speed/high drag, boron nitranium, precision ground shoulder bump gauge.
Turns out my rifle is .002” over minimum HS & my Redding Type S has been bumping shoulders back .001”
Turns out my rifle is .002” over minimum HS & my Redding Type S has been bumping shoulders back .001”
I’ve made a few of those out of naval brass for 260, 7mm SAUM and 338 Norma magnum.
Aren’t tools just better when you make them yourself?!
I used to knock Lee dies also
About ten years ago, I was the production manager for an ammunition company.
We used externally modified Lee Carbide dies on Camdex loaders.
We produced 50,000 rounds per day, per machine and didn't have to replace any dies in the 8.5 months I worked for them.
I no longer have any issues with their dies.
Their other stuff, well...
Probably shot over 140 rounds that day. Shoulder was fine. Mr. muzzle brake worked hard.
Not sure what you mean by “Break the edge”?
For a bullet comparator, Hornady usually goes a few thousandths under groove diameter per given caliber. .22CF would be .217”, 6mm would be .234”, etc. As long as it’s reasonably close it doesn’t matter, as it’s a comparator, all it does is compare one round to the next.
For a HS, just use a reamer with a matching shoulder angle... again, it doesn’t have to be to any specific dimension as your just using it to compare shoulder position between cases.
?
Yes but its not a gauge giving absolutes. Its a comparator giving relative measurements like every other comparator on earth.
Absolutely nothing. I am waiting on the moving truck to arrive, which currently holds my press, chargemasters, bullets, brass and anything else that didn't fit in my truck.
Get yourself some of these! I have 2 for each caliber...one is for clean brass, ready to load, the other is fired brass that needs to be cleaned, sized, etc. Put some little cards in each bin on how many times the brass has been fired so you keep them straight.
If organized neatly, this container holds 500 pieces of 6.5 creedmoor brass...and close to 1,000 pieces of .223
Those are a great idea. Not sure I would use that or maybe something similar. Cards are pretty much a necessity. As a beginner I made a quick and dirty spread sheet I can print out 4x per 8.5 x 11. Then cut into quarters for tracking how far along the brass is.
I toss this into the ziplock with the brass I am working and use this to track my batches. I do one step. Do that step to every piece. Check mark, NA or add the number required. Dates are helpful for some reason.
Looks like this:
I toss this into the ziplock with the brass I am working and use this to track my batches. I do one step. Do that step to every piece. Check mark, NA or add the number required. Dates are helpful for some reason.
Looks like this:
| STEPS | Date | Value | |
| Decap Primers | |||
| Tumble Clean | |||
| Remove Primer Crimp | |||
| Uniform Primer Pocket | |||
| Deburr Flash Hole | |||
| Anneal Case Mouth | |||
| Lube & Resize/Bump Shoulder | 1.623" | ||
| Tumble Clean | |||
| Trim Brass to Length | 2.005" | ||
| Deburr Outside Case Mouth | |||
| Chamfer Inside Case Mouth | |||
| Brass Brush Case Mouth | |||
| Steel Wool Case Mouth | |||
| Seat Primers | |||
| Load Powder | Type | ||
| Grains | |||
| Seat Bullets | Bullet Type | ||
| OAL/Ogive |
Annealed my 7mm RemMag brass.... Again ? it's on its 4th firing. Salt bath. 950* for 13 seconds
I saw a video on that salt bath annealing and seems to be a very easy, cheap and consistent way to do it.
The "scientific" testing has been inconclusive at best. The normal time is supposed to be only 5 seconds. I've been playing with different times. I do my 6.5 creedmoor brass for 8 seconds because it's thinner brass than my 7mm RemMag brass, so it goes longer in the magma. Will this process I'm doing work better?? No idea, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express Last night.
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