I am looking for a muzzle brake that really keeps it on target. I have about 7 or 8 different ones and none of them really lock it down.
What muzzle brakes are you keeping you on target the best?
- Thread starter FjallJager
- Start date
im really digging the new apa gen 3 fatB we just got into the shop. i still need to tune the ports but its really tamed it down a lot for me compared to similar designs i ran.
My favorites are the Heathen and 419 sidewinder.
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I dislike brakes with a vertical bias.
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I dislike brakes with a vertical bias.
The best store bought I've ever used, were Darrel Hollands. I now build all my own, which seem to me to outperform his. One thing I have seen while shooting w/a break installed, that has top discharge holes. If using a thin barrel any cant you induce while shooting will sustainably open your groups up, unless said cant is the same every-time. I've seen this with most guns that have a 5.5 taper like the Remington varmint, an smaller.
I prefer the apa gen 2 brakes. Little bastard or fat bastard. They are loud and obnoxious to adjacent shooters but do a great job of keeping the rile on target.
I use a 419 hellfire. It works great for me. It’s on a 24” 6.5 cm barrel. The gun is fairly light compared to the heavy comp guns.
The Kahntrol Solutions threaded muzzle break is treating me well. It's not the most aesthetically pleasing, but functionally I really dig it.
Another vote for the Insite heathen here. I have one on my .308 and my sight picture through the scope does not budge. It also doesn’t blast the shooters beside you much at all because the rear ports are basically 90 degrees (straight to the side not back).
Also worth noting, the heathen is manufactured so you can install different caliber inserts in the front of the brake. These cost a little extra of course, but nothing close to the cost of another brake for a different caliber.
Also worth noting, the heathen is manufactured so you can install different caliber inserts in the front of the brake. These cost a little extra of course, but nothing close to the cost of another brake for a different caliber.
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Full sized Fat Bastard on my LMT MWS .308...I can easily see impacts on steel out at 400 yards and can get follow hits nearly as fast as I can pull the trigger.
I've tried many other brakes, this is what works best for me.
Also, of course, a brake will not make up for poor fundamentals.
I've tried many other brakes, this is what works best for me.
Also, of course, a brake will not make up for poor fundamentals.
“Also, of course, a brake will not make up for poor fundamentals.”
WTF? You mean I actually have to practice? Yea, I ain’t doin that shit.
WTF? You mean I actually have to practice? Yea, I ain’t doin that shit.
LOL...the best way to work through these issues is keeping buying more gear and avoid live fire practice. That way, you'll have the most awesome potentially accurate rifle money can buy!
EXACTLY!
Kinda like the ole Indian feller in Josey Wales with the hard rock candy.....it’s not for eatin....it’s just for lookin through.
Thats what I do with all my rifles. Take em to the line and let everyone see em....but never shoot em.....don’t want to dirty the barrel. ?
I’ve been running a few over the past few years and settled on the PVA jetbrake or APA little bastard. I like the area419 hellfire as well just not as much as the other two
Here is a good write up on muzzle breaks.
precisionrifleblog.com
Muzzle Brake: Summary of Field Test Results
This post summarizes the eye-opening results for the massive muzzle brake field test I’ve worked on ...
precisionrifleblog.com
Pretty old and out of date test actually.Here is a good write up on muzzle breaks.
Muzzle Brake: Summary of Field Test Results
This post summarizes the eye-opening results for the massive muzzle brake field test I’ve worked on ...
Really depends on what caliber we are talking about but for 6.5 Creedmoor I like the Patriot Valley Arms "Jet Blast" self-timing brake the best. It reduces recoil by 50 - 60%, prevents muzzle rise so I can see target impact through my scope and re-engage if need be, and the blast is vented forward to the side so I don't get complaints from the next lane other than the usual muzzle brake loudness comments.
The Patriot Valley Jet Blast and Jet 4 both are excellent at cutting recoil. I echo what the poster above said. It's a nicer brake on the shooter as well for blast.
patriotvalleyarms.com
Muzzle Brakes
patriotvalleyarms.com
For staying on target here is a good review of breaks.
precisionrifleblog.com
Muzzle Brakes: Ability To Stay On Target
One important aspect of a muzzle brake is helping the rifle stay on target. In fact, I was discussin...
precisionrifleblog.com
Any of the top tier self timing brakes coupled with proper fundamentals will accomplish what you want. Proper fundamentals will go a longer way for recoil control then trying to chase down a product that's going to do all the work for you.
I've own/owned a few of the big ones: APA lil B, Area 419 and Insite Arms Heathen, and in my opinion, the Insite Arms Heathen is the best all around brake. When you factor in recoil mitigation, concussion mitigation, features and overall quality, the Heathen comes out on top for me.
Lots of good suggestions here for muzzle brakes. Working on your fundamentals and getting professional training will pay dividends over trying to purchase gear that will mask poor fundamentals.
I've own/owned a few of the big ones: APA lil B, Area 419 and Insite Arms Heathen, and in my opinion, the Insite Arms Heathen is the best all around brake. When you factor in recoil mitigation, concussion mitigation, features and overall quality, the Heathen comes out on top for me.
Lots of good suggestions here for muzzle brakes. Working on your fundamentals and getting professional training will pay dividends over trying to purchase gear that will mask poor fundamentals.
Everyone says that, but nobody defines it. What exactly are the "fundamentals" of post-shot re-acquisition of a target ... that are different from the basics of just shooting well (i.e. sight alignment, sight picture, breathing control, cheek weld, trigger control, etc.)?
Biggest thing for maintaining/reacquiring sight picture/alignment is properly loading the bipod, and being straight behind the rifle, with a natural point of aim where you intend to hit. Can't tell you how many times I have buddies lay 45*-60* (maybe exaggerated) behind the rifle, without loading the bipod, and you can watch the rifle recoil diagonally away from their body, as you'd expect. Then they complain about a poor brake, or too much recoil (out of a 6.5/260).
Regardless of the position you're shooting from, the butt should push into the shoulder evenly on both sides of the butt. Sometimes this requires canting the butt pad (all depends on body shape and shooting position), or raising/lowering the butt pad for proper engagement. A nice, grippy material on the butt can help as well. Maintaining/reacquiring sight alignment should be easy if your natural point of aim is correct, and you manage the recoil of the rifle so you don't move and adjust your natural POA. Easier said than done of course, especially with big caliber rifles...
Interesting ... never really thought of it that way. I use a Gen-3 APA Fat Bastard and shoot from a bench, and I can't seem to prevent the muzzle from "hopping" left putting the target to the right in the sight after a shot. Now that I think about it, the way the bench sits, I'm always positioned with my body on the left side, with most pressure from my shoulder shoulder pushing left to right in line with my body. This totally explains why the right push of my uneven body, would take "butt right" and "muzzle left" causing exactly what I'm seeing. Need to pull out the mat, go prone, and test this theory with a straight body and shoulder weld behind the rifle ... and see if my target "hops left" (or not). THANK YOU !!!
I run them on my 6creed, dasher and 308 reason being they are all match rigs and I’ll take every little advantage I can get with awkward positional shooting situations. Now all my hunting stuff is target crown, but I’ve run my 308 and 6creed without brakes in a few situations and they are tame.
I shoot my gas-gun 6.5 with a suppressor (LWRCI REPR MKII). It absorbs plenty of the recoil in the bolt and buffer.
I shoot my bolt action 6.5 with a brake (Tikka T3x TAC A1). It recoils pretty hard without some kind of recoil remediation.
By far, and I've shot a lot of different brakes, the PVA shockwave has been the most impressive brake I've gotten behind.
Laughing,.... but I have seen 22lrs an 223's w/ breaks at the range an when I ask about them, they all say to spot the shot, an follow ups,....OK,....laughing.
I shoot my .223 with a supressor or no device at all to ADD recoil. Lol
I have been really happy with the Area 419 Hellfire,
On my 6.5 creed it doesn't really need it but why not take any advantage I can.
On my 6.5 creed it doesn't really need it but why not take any advantage I can.
Not many people out thee don't shoot better with less recoil.
I've tested most of the best and on a 300wm or similar and there are not any that I've found that reduce more recoil.
I've tested most of the best and on a 300wm or similar and there are not any that I've found that reduce more recoil.
Only 5.56 I've had a break on was a XM177e2 I owned. The break I built for it turned it into nothing but a water hose on F/A. Once I revamped it into a M231 I had to change the break slightly. Many a guy shot them an to a person said it was weird to have a F/A like that.
My Gay Tiger actually stalks the target when triggered.
