What safe company do you trust most?

[Hippy_Steve]

I've decided to get a safe for my rifles. I've been looking at a few companies such as Sturdy, AMSEC, Fort Knox, Kodiak, Rhino, and even Graffunder. Of all, I'm leaning towards Sturdy to secure my valuables, but I want to get an idea of what you guys use. Given your current safe, what would you do different if you could go back in time and do it again?

 

[1moaoff]

Theres so much to that decision.
Budget
Space
Available location, they are big and heavy
Number and size of weapons or valuables
Insurance
Will it EVER be moved
Theft or fire protection is the big question.
Just to name a few.

I have the largest jewelry rated amsec available and it's just one of a few safes. ( it's full but was purchased for specific reasons) That one must be moved with a large forklift. I actually built a room designed around it. Others sit in more typical locations on my property.

Typically gun safes are really more of a security box. Sad to say but true! You can upgrade to more fire protection and security but it affects every aspect of cost and other considerations.

 

[swage2712]

A gun safe is really to protect against fire and slow down the smash and grab type of thieves. I have a monitored home security alarm and live a mile and a half from the police station. As mentioned, most commercial gun safes are really residential security containers.

 

[Nik H]

I've decided to get a safe for my rifles. I've been looking at a few companies such as Sturdy, AMSEC, Fort Knox, Kodiak, Rhino, and even Graffunder. Of all, I'm leaning towards Sturdy to secure my valuables, but I want to get an idea of what you guys use. Given your current safe, what would you do different if you could go back in time and do it again?

Nothing...I bought a Graffunder

 

[deersniper]

AMSEC. But moving them really sucks.

 

[deersniper]

The problem is this will get you in a lot of safes

And this will get you in the rest of them. Luckily most smash and grabs don't have expensive concrete saws and diamond blades

So don't forget to layer security. Alarms. Cameras. Alert neighbors. Opsec. Etc

 

[Gil P.]

They all suck, no matter how big. IMO, it's better to get a safe that doesn't look like one.

 

[broncoaz]

i’ve had Champion (cheap and somewhat junk, probably a step above the cheap models at Costco), Zanotti (good construction for those needing to put it upstairs), AMSEC (cosmetically nice safe, but I question the quality of the mechanisms), and now Sturdy.

This last time around I was between Sturdy and Ft Knox, Sturdy was more bang for the buck and cheaper to customize. Alyssa and the crew at Sturdy we’re great to deal with. 1.5 years later I wouldn’t change anything about my Sturdy. Keep an eye out on other forums for group buys, there are several each year and it saved me 15%.

 

[021411]

They all suck, no matter how big. IMO, it's better to get a safe that doesn't look like one.

I buddy of mine turned a 1/3 of his walk in closet into a safe room. Made a false wall. I couldn’t even tell until he showed me. Slick.

 

[Downtown]

I agree with Sturdy as the best for the money. Happy with mine. As has been mentioned, these aren't safes. They're RSCs, residential security containers. Won't keep out a safe cracker with tools. Just don't let safe crackers know what you have. Also, insurance is a better buy then fire protection. Safe (RSC) interiors get too hot in a real fire for anything to survive.

 

[deersniper]

I would have to disagree that they all suck. The Amsec tl30 provides a good deal more protection than a RSC

 

[Downtown]

Yes, a TL30 is a real safe. Much better than a RSC.

 

[km77]

I wish I would have done a lot more research PRIOR to buying... knowing now about ratings and how they're build, most gun boxes are a waste of money. Sure they'll keep your kids out of them, but that is about it. I'd recommend saving your money and buying something with a rating that fits your needs.

 

[_Windrider_]

I currently use a liberty fatboy extreme. I’m dumping it. I’m going to the secure it locker systems. Easier to move for one and a smaller footprint. My office and gun room is monitored by camera and security systems and fire well I guess I’m taking my chances. But I’m over dealing with “safes”. Since they aren’t really safes, unless you buy an actual steel cased concrete safe.

 

[zimm17]

I like my AMSEC BF (burglary/fire) series. I got it from dean's safe online with free shipping for 1/2 the cost the local locksmith/safe shop wanted. I move a lot (it's been in 5 houses so far). I think it was $2300. It's no residential security container, but it's a step above the "standard" safe. I looked a lot into Sturdy, but they just didn't look good enough to have out in the open for me.

My recommendation? Get a bigger one than you think. I got the shorter one and wish I went taller because as soon I got it, wifey filled the shelf with her stuff. I stuck with 30" wide to get through most door frames, just wish it was the tallest one. When I have a "forever house" I'm going to get another one.

 

[cattleman99]

Quikrete has treated me well

 

[Maelstrom]

I have 2 Fort Knox safes that I have been happy with. The first is over 10 years old. I bought the second this past February. They sit in my basement encased in a concrete room. Floor, walls, and ceiling are all reinforced concrete or rebar and concrete filled blocks.

 

[Hound Dog]

I highly suggest staying away from any of them with a electronic lock. I picked up a larger Winchester labeled one at tractor supply on sale years ago. It was actually made by Sentry I think, nothing about it Winchester but the sticker. I come home one day and the lock didn't work, tried switching the battery, and anything else I could think of still no luck. I went back to tractor supply and got a phone number off a similar safe, called them ended up having to get tractor supply to write a letter along with the receipt, to prove the serial number and send them a pic of the safe to get a master code to unlock it. Code didn't work, they give me another code, didn't work, then another code, none of them worked. They basically told me I was shit out of luck, they couldn't help me. After about a month of going back and forth and still not being able to get the electronic lock to work, I got into it with basically the tools deersniper showed. It took me about 3 hours and destroyed the safe, but I got into it. Never again will I ever buy a cheap safe or anything with an electronic lock. Tractor supply would not refund me my money, would only give me a new safe of the same type. I was so pissed, I never even took it out of the box. I sold it on craigslist, and at least got 3/4 of my money back.

 

[Maxduty]

I highly suggest staying away from any of them with a electronic lock. I picked up a larger Winchester labeled one at tractor supply on sale years ago. It was actually made by Sentry I think, nothing about it Winchester but the sticker. I come home one day and the lock didn't work, tried switching the battery, and anything else I could think of still no luck. I went back to tractor supply and got a phone number off a similar safe, called them ended up having to get tractor supply to write a letter along with the receipt, to prove the serial number and send them a pic of the safe to get a master code to unlock it. Code didn't work, they give me another code, didn't work, then another code, none of them worked. They basically told me I was shit out of luck, they couldn't help me. After about a month of going back and forth and still not being able to get the electronic lock to work, I got into it with basically the tools deersniper showed. It took me about 3 hours and destroyed the safe, but I got into it. Never again will I ever buy a cheap safe or anything with an electronic lock. Tractor supply would not refund me my money, would only give me a new safe of the same type. I was so pissed, I never even took it out of the box. I sold it on craigslist, and at least got 3/4 of my money back.

Friend has one of these. The battery went dead. Pop the lock face off and use the key included(it's a long one) to reach into the hole and unlock it. New batteries and the lock worked fine.

 

[Hound Dog]

Friend has one of these. The battery went dead. Pop the lock face off and use the key included(it's a long one) to reach into the hole and unlock it. New batteries and the lock worked fine.

I have seen some with that feature, perhaps the new ones have it. This one you could change the battery with it still locked. There was no key as back up.

 

[Maxduty]

I have seen some with that feature, perhaps the new ones have it. This one you could change the battery with it still locked. There was no key as back up.

They must have added it after people weren't able to get in to theirs.

 

[ToddM]

When I bought my gun safe I went to a shop in Vegas that had dealt in gun safes and all the huge spendy names like Graffunder for 3+ decades and I ask them how many "good" bolted down safes (Say over $2000 and 1000lbs) they had seen either brute forced into, or removed from a house. I think the answer was 2-3 and break ins are RAMPANT in Vegas. So bad that the LVPD won't even respond to a burglary alarm/report until a human has physically been on site and verified it. The number of safe contents destroyed by fire was much higher, and by far the favorite technique was to just roll/carry out cheap/light safes that were not bolted down.

The reality is unless you are spending $10k+ on names like Graffunder anyone motivated and prepared with tools and opportunity will get your safe open fairly quickly. A good camera/alarm system is a must have, because you need them to feel like they do not have unlimited time. Even a used TRTL30X6 safe that in large gun safe sizes is over $5k, but is still only rated for 30 minutes of theft protection with tools/torch (on all 6 sides) and in large gun safe sizes can be over 4000lbs.

There's tons of variables, where you live, what you have, do you worry more about theft, or fire, how much room do you need, your budget etc. I see 3 types of gun safes at the end of the day, mind you the joke of gun lockers are not safes, all they do is keep young children out. Sure there are some better options among them but they all slot in these.

1) Real theft rated safes like Graffunder that are $10K or better and provide serious protection even against motivated prepared thieves, if you have hundreds of thousands of dollars in valuables/guns you advertise all your toys and vacation plans on facebook regularly, or can't sleep because you worry if you buried enough food for the zombie apocalypse this might be your best option. Professional thieves have better things to do than hit houses for a few grand in guns.

2) "Mid" level safes, you spend somewhere in the $2-4k, you got something fairly large, good fire rating, 1000lbs or so, locking or fixed pins on all door sides, tight gaps to resist prying, and you bolted it down. This is going to deter smash and grab thieves, the bulk of which any of us will ever deal with and it provides real protection against fire. IMO this is all most of us need, if you want to buy more that's great, but if people even defaulted to this level there'd be a lot less stolen guns floating around out there.

3) Cheapies/smallies. These are the walmart, costco, etc. versions. They usually cost under $1000, unless they are huge, they have poor fire ratings, a can opener would get through the sides/top/bottom. They are usually under 500lbs so that one guy with a furniture/appliance dolly can roll it out easily. I put even high quality small safes in this category as well because weight and size alone make it easy for two guys to just roll it out of your house and work on it at their leisure.

I chose level 2, and went with a large browning (I also second getting a 72' tall safe, it's not much more $ and more room is always better and the extra height usually never makes it harder to get into the same place), mostly because IMO they make by far the best most flexible interior. I can get twice the stuff into my Browning because it's so adjustable on the interior than buddies I know with other brands with a more fixed interior.

 

[pyplynr]

I have a American Security BF7250. Bolted down and it weighs 1800 pounds empty. I am very pleased with it.

 

[MK20]

Look at something with a TL-whatever rating. That will signify an actual burglary resistant safe. Not some stupid residential security container. Used is going to be your best bet. Old safes get sold really cheap every time someone dies and the family wants to get rid of their stuff.
Craigslist is your friend.
I got a really nice paperwork/cash safe off there for 50 bucks once.

Check this one out. Just 400 bucks and it looks like a decent one.

Double Doors Safe

Please Respond by Telephone or Text 509 78one-zero556 Diebold # A 133581 57 x 37 x 77 tall Inside 39 x 16 x 61 tall Very Heavy Safe with 2 Sets of Double Doors Use for any Thing you want kept Safe.

kpr.craigslist.org

 

[Speedarino]

gunsafereviewsguy.com
Eleven Myths about Gun Safe Theft Protection.

 

[Swampr42]

I have a Rhino 35 gun safe. I like it a lot, but if I had to do it over I would go bigger. My safe started out with plenty of room then before I knew it there was no room.

 

[Georgedubya]

Given all of the logistical issues associated with safes (which folks have already mentioned), as well as the fact that almost anything can be broken into by a determined and skilled criminal, I went with a Hollon and one of the higher end Liberty safes. The main issue is one of liability for me. I don’t want to be accused of some kind of negligence if my guns are stolen and used for wrongdoing. My homeowner’s insurance covers my guns.

 

[teele1]

good information

 

[brianf]

I'm actually going toward" weaker" systems.
The bigger part is fire rating
Securing to the floor
No matter how heavy (to a point) it can be moved by a couple of guys if it s not secured
You need protection from typical burglary with small hand tools.
If you house is targeted while you are gone for a few days, nothing is "safe" with a 50$ grinder or torch
Cover the cost of items under the homeowners insurance, and save some space

 

[Moose]

Thanks for the info,I learned a-lot.

 

[3-0-hate]

I went with a Rhino Metals Ironworks safe. This one to be exact, but with a nice even grey powdercoat finish instead of the "distressed" look. https://rhinosafe.com/ironworks-aiw7242x-72h-x-42w-x-27d-54-long-gun-130-min/

Overall I like it. Comparing it to other RSC's, it seems to have a bit more security in terms of the door being plate steel so its more pry resistant, the body being a bit thicker, etc. I still layer with cameras that are on battery backup and record directly to the cloud and of course, insurance riders.

Probably the #1 reason I went with the Rhino though is because the factory where they are actually made (not imported) is only 20 mins from my door, so if anything ever happens and I need to get into it, I have actual factory support as opposed to a third party who has been contracted. I actually had a keypad start to die on me where it would only let me in if it felt like it, so I called Rhino. They were aware of the issue, apparently some of the keypads they used went belly up after a few years (bad batch) so they asked if they could send a new one to me, I told them I lived near by and asked if I could just come get it. They were happy to oblige. They were willing to have someone come out and swap it for me because it meant taking off the interior panel and replacing the brain. I ended up doing it myself but was super impressed with the level of customer support I received.

Very happy in my decision and to support a local business in the process.

 

[MK20]

You want a safe that is 1500 lbs or greater ideally. Mine is 3000 empty.

 

[3-0-hate]

You want a safe that is 1500 lbs or greater ideally. Mine is 3000 empty.

Mine is 1300lbs but it also is bolted down via four 1/2" anchors that are pounded deep into the concrete slab that it sits on.

 

[Speedarino]

Your guns will never be SAFE!
AOC and the diversity coalition is coming for them!

 

[3-0-hate]

Your guns will never be SAFE!
AOC and the diversity coalition is coming for them!

I keep documents and jewelry in mine. I don't own any guns.. I own a boat, and Im clumsy AF. I'm sure you can figure out where they all ended up.

 

[goosed]

The tools that will be used to open your safe while you're away usually come from your own garage. Secure them first.

Fire ratings are a joke. Very few are certified. Even fewer are water proof. Anything placed in an area that will have standing water or will itself retain standing water after the fire will be considered lost to toxic contamination. Fire suppression (sprinkler,Halon,etc.) is money better spent if fire is your main concern.

No one likes the thought of their prized possessions being taken, but the reality is nothing is ever safe. Not even the most expensive vaults in the world. Small cabinets, that don't draw attention, placed in several locations and a good insurance policy is about as good as it gets for security and return on investment.

 

[Crazy1323]

I have a Brown TL30 safe and love it. Brown Safes was great to work with too. You can customize anything you want, even the size of the safe since they are all made to order.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

I'm aware of what's been mentioned so far, and I think my plan to go with Sturdy Safe, OPSEC, insurance and a camera system is the best option for my situation. Luckily my friends just know me as a hunter and assume I have a hunting rifle; not much to attract attention. But I'm going to rent out a room to a colleague of mine, which means I'm going to have more people over more often. I'm keeping honest people honest, but I'm also taking precautions against the nosy and gossips, which I have no control over. Maybe I'm paranoid, but I grew up in a city were theft and break-ins were common.

 

[mewillis]

I highly suggest staying away from any of them with a electronic lock.

I had the same thing happen on a Fort Knox safe. It was part of the solenoid activated brass gizmo that locks and had to be drilled. The company that opened it said they had never even dealt with such a failure. Fort Knox paid for the whole cost of the locksmith services including installing a combination S&G lock, I had to pay for the combo lock. Won't own another e-lock ever. The sales pitch they give saying they are "better" than a combo was proven wrong by my experience. Even Graffunder won't guarantee the locks, so ask about that before you buy another brand.

 

[HogsLife]

Mines a Stealth UL50. Nice safe for under 2k. Had to work within a budget. It’s definetly a few steps above the Costco Cannons and the like. Weighs in at 900lbs empty but weighs the same as the rest of them when it’s bolted to the floor.

I do have a home security system and good neighbors. No way in the world anyone’s gonna get away with a grinder, torch, or dragging this safe out the garage unnoticed.

I agree with fire ratings being a joke. After we had this Thomas Fire here the local safe company’s were full of burned up safes. Everything in them was toast regardless of the fire rating. Garages burn pretty quick, but if the safe is in the house, chances are everything is getting torched.

IMO, safes are to keep the average snatch and grab thieves out and that’s about it.

 

[pmclaine]

I think Graffunder is the only one to consider a safe, everything else is a residential security container.

 

[_Windrider_]

I keep documents and jewelry in mine. I don't own any guns.. I own a boat, and Im clumsy AF. I'm sure you can figure out where they all ended up.

You must be friends with Colion noir. He literally just posted this

 

[BCX]

Liberty

 

[Changed]

Get a locking steel storage locker/job box, and use the balance of your money to pay premiums on a damn good policy.

It is foolish to think that a safe will provide protection from a fire. You’ll loose the temper from everything.

 

[BurnOut]

I think Graffunder is the only one to consider a safe, everything else is a residential security container.

Incorrect. Graffunders, while very heavily constructed, have passed no certification tests except RSC. Don't hear me say that they're no better than Winchester, Stack-On, or whatever other inexpensive options can be found at big box stores, but the long and short of it is that their design hasn't been demonstrably *proven* to be superior to the other, less expensive options.

The same cannot be said of the high end AmSec gun safes, as they offer actual UL TL ratings (even TL30X6 on a couple of models). Even at that, though, as others have mentioned, anyone with enough time and motivation can get into anything... so layering security and fire reporting methods to hedge your bets against grinders/cutters/torches is the best approach. Further, if you have anything like a plasma cutter or oxy/acetylene setup, make sure to keep the tips in your safe; they're small, and effectively render those tools useless if a bad guy wants to use them to try to let himself into your safe.

 

[lts1ow]

I have a lower end Amsec and its a solid interim RSC for right now. It gives me a little piece of mind, but, I also realize its not going to do much for a determined intruder.

When I can build my forever house, it will have a pad for a proper safe.

 

[Hippy_Steve]

I have a lower end Amsec and its a solid interim RSC for right now. It gives me a little piece of mind, but, I also realize its not going to do much for a determined intruder.

When I can build my forever house, it will have a pad for a proper safe.

I grew up in a house that never had a safe. We were raised to never touch dad's guns without permission. We never had a problem with theft, despite living in a bad town with a reputation for theft and burglary. Now everyone I know has a safe, and I will too. Times are changing. Are we more paranoid, or are B&E and theft more common now?

 

[km77]

I grew up in a house that never had a safe. We were raised to never touch dad's guns without permission. We never had a problem with theft, despite living in a bad town with a reputation for theft and burglary. Now everyone I know has a safe, and I will too. Times are changing. Are we more paranoid, or are B&E and theft more common now?

I don't think it is paranoia but a general lack of respect for others that has plagued our society.

 

[pmclaine]

I grew up in a house that never had a safe. We were raised to never touch dad's guns without permission. We never had a problem with theft, despite living in a bad town with a reputation for theft and burglary. Now everyone I know has a safe, and I will too. Times are changing. Are we more paranoid, or are B&E and theft more common now?

I remember the days when glass front gun cabinets were the object of pride in a house. Sears, Service Merchandise, all the retail stores had 4-5 pages dedicated to wood gun cabinet furniture.

Yes I do want to return to those times.

 

[km77]

I remember the days when glass front gun cabinets were the object of pride in a house. Sears, Service Merchandise, all the retail stores had 4-5 pages dedicated to wood gun cabinet furniture.

Yes I do want to return to those times.

Or building them in shop class in high school... I thought that was awesome.