Gunsmithing What stamp, engrave, etch method do you use to mark your new barrels?

jd65

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Jan 7, 2014
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Looking for suggestions and methods to mark and identify a newly spun up barrel. I would like to be able to make it look nice but not sure if I can get that ability in an affordable package. Thanks
 
I was thinking the dremel engraver idea on the chamber end of the barrel. Nothing would be visible on the outside but would maybe be visible on the inside looking into the action.

Another idea was some stamps by it would probably looked like shit if I tried stamping by hand on the outside of the barrel.

I’ve seen Larry Potterfields acid etch setup but looks expensive.

A Pantograph looks cool but are hard to find the good old machines.
 
I engrave the muzzle end with cal and twist on every one I make up using my 3 axis CNC. Customer should know what it is since he bought it but any buyer down the road needs something in writing. Not a big deal to engrave round object with 3 axis machines.

Check with your local trophy shops or ask around local machine shops for someone that uses a laser to mark part numbers and such. Lots of them are doing that now and its pretty cheap and simple to do.

Frank
 
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Our local machine shop laser engraves for 25 bucks a barrel . I have a chemical etch setup with common caliber stencils anything odd I run the barrel down with an index line.
Hunt around on Ebay I picked up the etch machine used , reasonably priced and its simple to use.
 
^^^
I was surprised to find there wasn't a trophy shop, etc. with a laser engraver within a 100 miles I could find that was capable of holding something as long as a rifle barrel.

I use a shop-made jig (similar to the LaBounty) for chambering stamps to get adequate depth.
I'm looking at acid etching to incorporate a logo on them as well.
 
Our local place is a tool and die shop they have a nice laser and does nice marking but not very deep.
Another company we use now does firearm engraving and they can do engraving deep. We had a mistake on some barrels and they were able to go right over and fix the mistake.
 

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You can make your own electro-etch machine for almost nothing and have a printing shop that makes vinyl signs make the stencils for you. you can bead blast through the stencils on a polished barrel. (SS) Hear is a link to make an electro -etch power supply . I use a giant Q top and salt water. The power supply I used was 5 volts 1 amp

/www.instructables.com/id/Steel-Etching-and-Marking-from-a-DC-Adapter/
 
Electro etch. You need a good vinyl cutter, an old non-smart battery charger, some saltwater. Mask everything off well. Positive electrode on the action, negative electrode on the a 3/8” carbon gouging rod from McMaster. Takes time but cheap and works well.

Thanks for all of the ideas. That Electro Etch looks good. Does electro etching make the letter black or are you painting it?
 
We use a laser. I used to use a mill and a cam system but it sidelined an otherwise productive machine to cut caliber markings. I also used the do the acid etching.

If you want to cover shipping cost I would be happy lasering some for you.

That is a generous offer. Thank you! I am not familiar with laser engraving, how would it look on a barrel that has already been cerakoted?
 
I use an inexpensive Etch O Matic. You need a laser printer to make the stencils but it's very simple. I can't get the etching as deep as cast1's pics but they're deep enough that they stand out clearly after cerakoting.

Here's an old barrel showing how deep I'm able to get it with the Etch O Matic.

etch1.jpgetch2.jpg
 
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Electrochemical etching machines aren't difficult to build. I've built and sold several, and still have one I use occasionally.

For deeper engravings such as barrels, receivers and suppressor markings I use a CNC VMC. But for shallow, darkened markings on unfinished metal, such as knife blades, I use my etcher.

Here's a schematic for a simple version of the one I made. I used a center tap transformer, and used both outputs routed through some addition switches for an additional DC and AC voltage output options.

The DPDT switch at the bottom allows you to switch from DC output from the bridge rectifier for deep etching, or to byypasd the bridge rectifier and use the transformers AC output for creating black markings.

 
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