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I would buy my wife some jewelry for $1k so she does not care that I spent $2k on a better optic.
what were the reasons why you didnt want a 56mm obj and 34mm tube?
What is the big deal about turret feel? I dont understand. If they turn and the scope adjusts then job well done. I could care less about how a turret feels. In my opinion (of course) i think scope manufacturers are getting a little carried away on how “tactical” the turrets are becoming. I dont consider it very tactical when you can hear me dialing my scope in from 100 yards away.
Im not picking on you solely. I read this constantly. Im going to start a thread.
In the exchange here the illuminated models sell for $900 and the non-illuminated for less. I bought three in the last couple months. They are worth every penny at those prices. They sell low because of the huge black friday mark downs every year. That is the pricing the used market is based off of. I wouldnt even consider them at full retail and I really like the scope and the reticle. I’m partial to thicker reticles and not really a fan of the tree style as i can hold up and over easily with a standard reticle up to any distance where I would utilize this method.The SWFA 5-20 is out of its depth at 1200 in todays market. Same with the HDMR. Not a chance would I drop 1200 on either. Not with the Tango6, DMRII, TX5i, Cronus, ETR, LRHS/LRTS all right there.
Tree reticles are definately not the be all and end all. They have negatives as well and many guys dont even define their positives as positives. Tree reticles are not necessary to hold up and over. I like reticles like the mil-quad and the H2cmr. Non cluttered and easy to breakdown. The .2 mil diamonds in the mil-quad serve a purpose. They help the shooter better disect the reticle when making hold overs on the main line.oh yea same here. i wouldnt buy the SWFA 5-20, i only listed it because the original post said to avoid tree reticles. imo no tree reticle or illum at a $1200 is outdated in the current market.
I've already got Burris Signature 30mm high rings (with inserts) that I want to use.
I don't want to go over 50mm obj on this rifle (prefer 44mm) as the scope just gets unnecessarily high, I'd need a cheek riser, I prefer scopes to be as low as possible, overall it's just not a path I want to go down.
34mm is not such a big issue but still means I need to buy new rings, and the Signature rings aren't available in 34mm.
The scopes are typically bigger, bulkier and heavier and I don't need the additional elevation 34mm tubes provide.
The PST is reported to have a bigger FOV too which is something I look for in a scope.
- No Vortex or Leopold
- FFP, 20x+, Illum, Mil/Mil
- Best overall quality based on glass, turret, durability/reliability.
- Lets just say we don’t care about fancy tree reticles. That can open up a can of worms
More curiosity than an advice to purchase. Just feel like there’s not much worth buying in this range in terms of value. It’s either go mid range in the 500-800 or go $1800+. Personal opinion.
I am worried I may end up buying one of the recommendations at the end of this thread lol.
Let’s hear it! Thanks in advance fellas.
I think the SHV F1 is clearer and sharper than the NXS line. I don't think the eyebox on the SHV F1 is tight at all. I find it forgiving. The eye relief is short though.For that price range I find it hard to move away from the Nightforce SHV F1. Tracking, 14 mil MILR reticle, Japanese glass, 25 yard parallax (my experience) and only superior to the NXS with the fact that’s it’s an F1 reticle. 1,000 yard shots no problem. Only complaints that are not deal breakers for me is that the eye box is a bit tight and there are only 4 mil’s per rev. The balance of the features offered far outweigh my two complaints. JM2C...
I think the SHV F1 is clearer and sharper than the NXS line. I don't think the eyebox on the SHV F1 is tight at all. I find it forgiving. The eye relief is short though.
I'm looking in the same ballpark price range . Need a scope to "learn on" for a year or two before upgrading. In terms of JUST solid mechanics, reliability and glass quality how would you rate the Sightron SIII vs the Athlon Ares ETR. I realize the Athlon is newer, has illumination and zero stop but if you were picking one to learn how to shoot 600-1000 yds which of the two? I'm just getting started and the Sightron would free up dollars to go towards other needed toys which is why I'm kind of leaning towards it.
I’m leaning towards a used T5Xi
Quality scope for the money - you scored.Ended up picking up a Steiner T5XI 5-25 for $1,150.