Gunsmithing What's the process of re barreling a 700 action

[kansas]

I've been reading a lot of threads on this and I'm not sure if it's worth using a donor action to start a build or better just to buy a finished rifle. First off I have a 700 BDL in 243 that is over 20 and maybe 30 years old and I'm wanting to end up with a .260 for long range. It looks like I can send it to a smith and have him change barrels but I'm not sure what else is necessary. For starters will I need to have my scope base holes re threaded? Do I need a new lug? Id like to end up with a barreled action that I can just bolt into a chassis like AI or manners stock with a mini chassis. Is that possible or will I need someone to fit the lug to the chassis?
I'm trying to go cheap and I realize that can bite you in the butt. I'd like to end up with a 1/2 moa shooter.
Thanks for the help.

 

[Ledzep]

First off, my suggestion is to do a lot of reading/looking around before you send your stuff off. That said, I would have your current bolt/action blueprinted to get everything square. Barrel screws into the receiver squarely, shoulders mate up squarely, recoil lugs bear evenly-- minimal undue stresses. The smith will unscrew and remove your current barrel and recoil lug, then dial in the center axis of your action and bolt on a lathe or milling machine and remove a very minimal amount of material from the front of the receiver ring, receiver threads, receiver lugs, bolt face, and bolt lugs to get everything square with the world.

You can use your original recoil lug, or 'upgrade' to something a little thicker and probably more precise (square). I'm a fan of thicker lugs. Most chassis systems are cut for all but the bulkiest of recoil lugs, if I'm not mistaken. A .200" or .250" thick lug should be fine.

Then the GS will take whatever barrel blank you send in (.264" cal) and turn, thread, and chamber it in your action. Presto! Now your 243 is a 260, and odds are it'll shoot!

As for scope mount holes, I'm not entirely sure. I think some guys think the 8-32 screws are stronger? I don't think I had mine changed when I had my .260 built and I've had no problems. I would only mess with them if they're not straight in line from the factory (it happens). FWIW (and remember, I said to do your research first...), Long Rifles is doing a group buy for M700's right now with good prices and really good turn-around times. They did my 260 build and the work done is excellent. Also, Chad Dixon will be more than capable of answering any questions you might have. Really informative guy to talk with.

 

[kansas]

Thanks for the reply. So can I just bolt this barreled action into a chassis like an AI or Manners mini chassis and shoot?

 

[fw707]

Yes.
McRee is another good chassis-type stock.

 

[Rookie]

First, what's your definition of "cheap"? Give us some indication of your budget. It costs a lot of money to have a custom rifle built, and even more to add good quality scope, base, and rings on it. Nothing about that process is cheap. Also, it will take an investment in good quality reloading gear and components capable of your 1/2 moa accuracy goal. Second, speaking of goals, what is your definition of "long range", and what do you intend to shoot at that distance? Your 243 is quite capable of shooting accurately out to several hundred yards, even with a barrel that is likely a 1 in 10 twist. With a faster twist, it would be capable of shooting accurately well beyond that range.

Your inquiry about being able to mount an action in a chassis tells us you don't know much about this game. That is not a crime and we all started somewhere, so no offense intended. My suggestion is learn to shoot first. Spend your first dollars on competent instruction, lots of ammo, and practice time. Shooting 1/2 moa consistently is more about the shooter's skills than it is about what chassis you have. Learn to reload. Next consider a quality optic. That will get your further toward your goal quicker than having some chassis that looks cool at the range. The cheaper route would be to make sure the existing stock free floats the barrel. And to answer your question, yes, most chassis systems should be bedded to get maximum accuracy.

 

[kansas]

I know work isn't cheap and I understand why. Yep this sport is pricey but I'm trying to figure out if I should trash a perfectly good deer rifle for the action or just pony up for a whole rifle or maybe just a barreled action from a competent smith. I've been shooting an informal match that runs out to 1400 yards with a semi custom Savage .308 that was put together by Rayhill and it does fine out to 800 yards or so with good hand loads but past that the my sons .260 rules. I've done all the math and no matter what bullet you use in the .308 it just isn't going to shoot as flat as the .260 and, more important, the wind calls are much better with the .260.
What I'm saying is I don't need another rifle, I want another rifle and am trying to decide the best route to take to get a capable rifle. As far as budget I'll spend what it takes to a point. A $3000
rifle is out of my budget because I'll still need optics but if I can take this action and spend another $600-$800 and then stick it in a chassis and have a 1/2 moa rifle then life is good.

 

[creids98292]

The KRG X-ray is a great budget chassis. You will want a ground recoil lug .200-.250 is fine, that way you know everything is true when you thread that new barrel on. You can run a a remmy barrel nut system and shave alittle $$ of your build as well.
Chris
Benchmark Barrels

 

[kansas]

Thanks Chris. I've been thinking about that. Besides Northland, who else makes the barrel nut system?

 

[CharlieNC]

You can rebarrel the Rayhill Savage 308 yourself to 260 or other higher BC short action calibers. Pre threaded barrels range from $150-$450. Check savageshooters.com for options.

 

[C&H PWS]

If budget is the driving force, why not do this new build in stages. First re-barrel your hunting rifle from .243 into a .260 or 6.5 and then glass bed it into your current stock or upgrade it into a new stock. Now you have a lights out upgraded hunting rifle that you'll also be shooting in competitions.

We've taken old hunting rifles and upgraded the recoil lug, re-barreled them, free floated the barrel channel in the old wood stock and then glass bedded them and the customers have been thrilled.

It's easy to build a new rifle but it often gets pricey.

 

[kansas]

If budget is the driving force, why not do this new build in stages. First re-barrel your hunting rifle from .243 into a .260 or 6.5 and then glass bed it into your current stock or upgrade it into a new stock. Now you have a lights out upgraded hunting rifle that you'll also be shooting in competitions.

We've taken old hunting rifles and upgraded the recoil lug, re-barreled them, free floated the barrel channel in the old wood stock and then glass bedded them and the customers have been thrilled.

It's easy to build a new rifle but it often gets pricey.

This is what I've decided to do. I often want the finished product NOW but I think with paying for a little bit here and there and watching the "for sale ads" on different forums I can come up with a good rifle without having to sell all my Glocks and cheap guns.