Just as the title says. I'm new to reloading on a progressive so I have changed some of my methods. On my single stage I wipe every case with mineral oil Full Length Resize and wipe off just the way I was tought from my family. On my progressive I put a good amount in a gallon bag and spray one shot in the bag and mix around until cases look evenly lubed dump and let dry. What's your method?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
What's your preferred method and type of case lube on a progressive press?
- Thread starter Remman13
- Start date
For straight wall pistol cases which are sized and loaded in one pass I use OneShot. Bottle necked cases that will be trimmed after sizing and prior to loading I use a homemade mix of 1:10 lanolin and iso alcohol.
Both are applied via the ziplock bag shake/massage method and dry tumbled after loading or sizing.
Both are applied via the ziplock bag shake/massage method and dry tumbled after loading or sizing.
Throw an appropriate amount of brass in a cardboard beer case box - one of the short ones, walls about 2 inches tall, rectangle 2 feet x 16 inches -
Spray brass with Dillon lube, lanolin and alchohol.
Shake vigorously.
Let alcohol flash dry.
Dump in casefeeder.
Prep/size brass.
Done.
Before I do the load process I tumble in corn to remove residual lube.
I only use Oneshot on pistol brass. When my can of Oneshot is dead I will only use Dillon lube.
Spray brass with Dillon lube, lanolin and alchohol.
Shake vigorously.
Let alcohol flash dry.
Dump in casefeeder.
Prep/size brass.
Done.
Before I do the load process I tumble in corn to remove residual lube.
I only use Oneshot on pistol brass. When my can of Oneshot is dead I will only use Dillon lube.
I use One Shot when I don't want to wait half an hour or so to let the alcohol evaporate. IF you start sizing with alcohol on the cases, your shoulder bump will be inconsistent.
You are probably right. I haven't used it but thought it was. MSDS just says "Proprietary Mixture".
Why is there a need to lube straight wall pistol cases if they are going to be resized in a carbide die? I have been resizing pistol cases with carbide dies since the middle 1970’s and never had a problem.
Steel straight wall pistol dies require lube but who buys steel pistol dies anymore?
Steel straight wall pistol dies require lube but who buys steel pistol dies anymore?
Hornady paste lube with a q-tip inside necks. Zip lock with snipershide lanolin lube. Shake and bake.
It wasn’t necessary but once I tried it with my Dillon dies everything runs so much smoother I just kept lubing.
I use RCBS Case Lube 2, a water soluble liquid, much like thick dish detergent.
I handle the case head with my right hand, and lube the inside of the fingers on the left hand. A bit goes a long way.
I pick up the case, spin it in the fingers, then seat it in the shell plate. Once the case is resized and primed, I wipe the outside down with a shop cloth dampened in rubbing alky. I only lube the outside case wall, not the shoulder or neck.
Quick, easy, keep the stuff out of your eyes.
Greg
I handle the case head with my right hand, and lube the inside of the fingers on the left hand. A bit goes a long way.
I pick up the case, spin it in the fingers, then seat it in the shell plate. Once the case is resized and primed, I wipe the outside down with a shop cloth dampened in rubbing alky. I only lube the outside case wall, not the shoulder or neck.
Quick, easy, keep the stuff out of your eyes.
Greg
32oz bottle of 99% achohol, 4oz bottle of lanolin oil, 3 spray bottle... mix all alcohol and all lanolin... run it
This was my finding as well. Not necessary, but when doing a few hundred at a time it saved me a bit of pain afterwards as it made everything run just a touch smoother.
I just tumble the loaded rounds for 15min in corncob afterwards to get the One Shot off the exterior of the cases.
As others have said, there is no comparison when running One Shot on a progressive.
Especially with pistol rounds, there is no need to remove the One Shot after loading, but to each his own.
Last edited:
The reason I tumble the OS off loaded straight wall pistol rounds is based on having two case head separations in a suppressed 9mm AR which left the case body stuck to the chamber.
Could it have just been a really dirty gun causing the cases to stick and tear the rim off? Possibly, but I figure I’d rather be safe than sorry and removing all of the OS also means I don’t get it on my hands or in my mags when loading.
Similar threads
