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Maggie’s What's Your View II

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A bit hastily done, in windy conditions, on a wobbly travel tripod, outside/balcony from our hotel room. Last night in Paris, then we head home tomorrow.

Oh and saw some Yellow vest kids on the #1 Metro on the way to the hotel this afternoon. Half the shops on Champs Elysees are still boarded up today/Sunday. The majority of the protests are on Saturday.
 
Yeah, I ran it too long. I had a suspicion they were nearing their useful life but like a tard I tried one more go. I run batches of 40 on the 338 - luckily the rest survived but are now in the trash. 12 reloadings, not too shabby all in all.

I only get about 7-8 with PPU, but it's not bad at half the price.
 
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That’s the idea! There will be 4 of us in the group I shoot with that will be shooting the Snipetac this year

Who's building your Snipetac ? David Viers built my Cheytac and I lost contact with him. Curious if theres any news on David. I like his work, and if I knew then what I know now, I'd have done snipe over chey...

Where will u get the snipetac brass ?

vr
 
Who's building your Snipetac ? David Viers built my Cheytac and I lost contact with him. Curious if theres any news on David.

Hi,

Well Dave pretty much never fully recovered business wise from the tornado that hit him in 2014. It messed his shop up, killed his neighbor, etc.
Then in 2015 his health pretty much come crashing down. In around June of 2015 is was clear that he was/had stopped building rifles and only building die sets, but that too was short lived. His health just got too down for even that.

Sincerely,
Theis
 
Who's building your Snipetac ? David Viers built my Cheytac and I lost contact with him. Curious if theres any news on David. I like his work, and if I knew then what I know now, I'd have done snipe over chey...

Where will u get the snipetac brass ?

vr
I’ll be using Bertram brass to start. I got a deal on all the parts to put it together except the reamer. Came with the brass and some Lehigh bullets too.

A friend will be spinning up the barrel for me. He has the reamer that all but one guy will be using
 
Hi,

Well Dave pretty much never fully recovered business wise from the tornado that hit him in 2014. It messed his shop up, killed his neighbor, etc.
Then in 2015 his health pretty much come crashing down. In around June of 2015 is was clear that he was/had stopped building rifles and only building die sets, but that too was short lived. His health just got too down for even that.

Sincerely,
Theis
I live about 8 mi. from Dave but haven't talked to him for awhile. He was putting a lot of effort into govt sales but realized it wasn't going to happen. A couple of weeks ago I went by his place and didn't see any tracks in or out of the place but I did see 4 wheeler tracks on his range. Next time by I will stop in.
 
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@geno, we be waiting on the pictures...

@S Roche, Dave is one fine man. When you do stop and see him, please tell him theres one Alabama redneck that wishes him the absolute best, is enjoying the cheytac he built, and that it still shoots unreal good. They dont come better than Dave.

@THEIS, I knew about half of that, and lost contact. Thanks very much.

vr
jw
 
Nightmare....
It shouldn't be to bad. Should be much easier than 6.4 diesel in Ford pick-up.
You haven't lived until you have done a blower motor/speed controller assembly on a 92 Mercedes. You'll never even guess where they put it. Them Germans, they do some amazing engineering, but then use shitty materials.
Just did an oil leak on a 2013 Audi A8. Dealer quoted almost $6000. I was a little over $4,000 Only had 82,000 miles.
 
It shouldn't be to bad. Should be much easier than 6.4 diesel in Ford pick-up.
You haven't lived until you have done a blower motor/speed controller assembly on a 92 Mercedes. You'll never even guess where they put it. Them Germans, they do some amazing engineering, but then use shitty materials.
Just did an oil leak on a 2013 Audi A8. Dealer quoted almost $6000. I was a little over $4,000 Only had 82,000 miles.

Bud is a Mercedes mechanic. Pulls whole rear clip to change batteries, under rear seat...
Not me..... no way..

Another bud does nothing but Ford diesels. Always removes cab and front clip, set up a lift for that alone.
Not me, no way....

Car designers today are insane. Shop prices are insane. Good mechanics ARE worth shop price though... jmho
 
@geno, we be waiting on the pictures...

@S Roche, Dave is one fine man. When you do stop and see him, please tell him theres one Alabama redneck that wishes him the absolute best, is enjoying the cheytac he built, and that it still shoots unreal good. They dont come better than Dave.

@THEIS, I knew about half of that, and lost contact. Thanks very much.

vr
jw
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FedEx guy made it. Chassis brass and bullets are in? It’s about an hour ride to my buddies to pick up the action but he just called and said it was there. Looks like I’m all set
 
Bud is a Mercedes mechanic. Pulls whole rear clip to change batteries, under rear seat...
Not me..... no way..

Another bud does nothing but Ford diesels. Always removes cab and front clip, set up a lift for that alone.
Not me, no way....

Car designers today are insane. Shop prices are insane. Good mechanics ARE worth shop price though... jmho
Cab removal is pretty standard. It still gets some looks though.
You know how the factory put the engine in? Without a damn cab in the way that is how. I don't blame the enginers all the time. I will give an example.
Lets take a Ford diesel (Chevy, dodge the same).
Since the dawn of diesels in Ford pickups pulling heads have been a chore. The heads weight near 100lbs each. Lifting over a fender into a hole and not ruining a new head gaskets takes a crew.
On the 1983 6.9 you could not remove the back 2 head bolts from the head. They were to long. So in the manual you were supposed to use a rubber band or a string to hold the bolts up about 3 inches and. Remove the head and head bolts together. God forbid you put the head back on and forgot to pre-install those head bolts.
That is just to establish room has been an issue for a long time.
On the 6.0 you can do heads in the cab if you like punishment. You have to remove the entire A/C-heater box from under the hood. That can take almost 3 hrs. I can have the entire cab off in the same time.
Next it is impossible to use head studs with the cab on so the engine either needs to be removed or the cab. Cab removal about 3 hrs, engine removal about 12. Once the cab is off, the engine is sitting in a 5000 lbs engine stand. Torquing head bolts to almost 300lbs on a regular engine stand is a PITA.
Also i am standing all day vs bent over all day.
There are only 6-8 bolts holding the cab on the frame. Radiator, power steering hoses and brake master cylinder, park brake cable, steering shaft, transmission shift cable and a few wiring connectors. Actually doing reverse of the assembly line. The question I have really is why were cabs not being removed 30 years ago.
 
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So I am guessing that Geno’s 20 min time vs 1.8 hr book time is about how this goes?

Had something replaced on Momma’s old car before we gave it to a friend who was in need.
I was quoted a price (with break down of part and labor) and returned with vehicle 3 days later for a job I was told would be 40 minutes or so. Took about that long.
Front counter guy (different than who gave the quote, part owner I believe) tried to charge way more saying it was 2.5 hr book job.
I told them no freaking way. Either I pay the quoted price or they take it out and I leave.
 
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So I am guessing that Geno’s 20 min time vs 1.8 hr book time is about how this goes?

Had something replaced on Momma’s old car before we gave it to a friend who was in need.
I was quoted a price (with break down of part and labor) and returned with vehicle 3 days later for a job I was told would be 40 minutes or so. Took about that long.
Front counter guy (different than who gave the quote, part owner I believe) tried to charge way more saying it was 2.5 hr book job.
I told them no freaking way. Either I pay the quoted price or they take it out and I leave.
I will have to come back later and explain the justification for the time. Every job has those on the outside with little knowledge or understanding judging those doing the job.
Kind of like anti-gunners vs gun owners
 
Book hours are generally worst case. A rusty engine with broken bolts anywhere will take a quick job and turn it into the nightmare! A good mechanic makes good money by beating the book. Say the book is 6 hours for a trans r&r. If you do it in 2 most dealers used to pay based on the book. If you’re really good, you’re getting paid for 40 hours by the wnd of Tuesday
 
2A
I am always happy to learn. Teach away.

My biggest concern was I was quoted 1 price and the told another when it was very clear how long it took.
The only reason I had them do it was time. The price of the labor vs my time without experience to do it was worth it. At 2.5 hrs billed labor it would not have been.

Should we start using “book times” to bill for medical procedures?

And your stuff about judging and being like an anti gunner is BS and you know it.
There is an extremely big difference in God given rights and business practices.

You are an honest and upstanding guy. You share your knowledge on many things here and its appreciated.
And you know of a ton of guys in your profession who aren't upstanding or honest.
 
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The chassis is bigger than their normal long action but smaller than their bmg version. It will be on the light side I’m thinking but haven’t bothered to add up the components yet...if it needs weight, I’ll add it to the buffer tube first. It that’s not enough, I’ll make a forearm out of steel tube instead of aluminum. Lots of ways to tame her down
 

Louisiana Fish Fry Blackening Powder, some really good olive oil (not the cheap stuff) and a hot grill over applewood smoke. Although you may need head gear getting back in the house with a tussle over the fish? A solution to fried food that’s damn tasty? Bourbon is part of the recipe but not for the fish?
 
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The chassis is bigger than their normal long action but smaller than their bmg version. It will be on the light side I’m thinking but haven’t bothered to add up the components yet...if it needs weight, I’ll add it to the buffer tube first. It that’s not enough, I’ll make a forearm out of steel tube instead of aluminum. Lots of ways to tame her down

Dude that is going to be awesome! Weren’t the boys over at Cheytac engaging 12” plates at like 2400? Don’t remember the exact numbers, just remember it was a far piece for a 12” plate. Looks like you have the long gun dialed in.....watcha putin on her for glass?
 
50 moa rail?

You can take public transportation to the next county. Lol

Can you hit anything at 100 with it like that?
What would be the zero distance.

I can't afford enough spotting scope to see a hit that far.
How about google earth in real time for civilians?
 
I should be able to zero at 100. The ATACR has 120moa of adjustment. If not, I’ll snag some Burris rings and tweak it until I can. I believe a 100-200 yard zero is best because there is less of an affect of environmentals. Zeroing at 500 for example, you’d need to kee track of your da on the day of zeroing and adjust from there. It can be done but it’s easier for me to work from 100.

Once you start shooting way out there, you realize you don’t need as much magnification as some think. Last time I shot at a mile with my 300wsm, I dialed down to 5.5 on my nxs so I could have enough hold over to hit.
 
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