Sidearms & Scatterguns Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

[jericho]

I read something recently about avoiding certain brands of 1911's for home/amateur smithing projects.For the life of me I cant remember which brands they were.I want to say Para? Apparently some parts are really off spec. I might be wrong about Para though. Any advice gents?
I realize most aftermarket parts are not true drop in and need a little fitting.

 

[Hawk45]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

If you are going to jump into home smithing a 1911, start with a Springfield. It's really going to depend on the extent of "smithing" you are going to do. Mostly drop-in parts or will you be doing milling and frame material removal?

A few things to be aware of if you want to start with the frame milled for the oversized beaver-tail or that is something you want to tackle yourself. Also sight milling is something to think about as the more affordable modles have staked fronts and integrul rears, the mid-level Mil-Spec has staked front but drift rear, and the Loaded versions have drift dove-tails front and drift Novak rear cuts.

So depending on what you want to do.. I'd say those are the big things to look for.. even if you don't start with a Springer. I did some work on a Mil-Spec a few years back b/c I love to tinker (within reason for safety) but if I were to build again.. I'd start with the Loaded version.

I'm sure you've done your homework, but to do things right takes quite a bit of investment in the proper tools. This again depends on home much actual "smithing" you will do of course.

 

[Mr.Kirk]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

Some models won't work with standard parts. Avoid the foreign models like Sig and Taurus, there may be others, but I've heard that these don't work. You can allways go to Brownells or Midway and buy an already matched frame and slide w/ the propper cuts for sights. Brownells will sale the wilson combat kit fit w/ a barrel.

 

[sasquatch98226]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

Make sure if you want to change out the beaver-tail what the radius is cut at. Springers, and Caspians (unless otherwise noted), and some wilsons are cut at .220, while nearly everybody else is cut at .250. This can make a big difference when looking for aftermarket parts.

 

[jericho]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

Thanks gents. It was Sigs and Taurus 1911's that I read about. Always appreciate all the great advice.

 

[cvedrick]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

Stay FAR FAR FAR away from RIA, something about their metallurgy and/or heat treating causes the frame to crack around the slide stop hole.

Springfield, Taurus and Para are all good choices as ling as you get the single stack.

Truthfully just get a SA GI 1911 and go to town.

Oh yea go out and get a good dremel setup, you will need it.

 

[znztivguy]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

Norincos.....
Frames are a pain.....too hard....

 

[thespecialist]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cvedrick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Stay FAR FAR FAR away from RIA, something about their metallurgy and/or heat treating <span style="font-weight: bold">causes the frame to crack around the slide stop hole</span>.

Springfield, Taurus and Para are all good choices as ling as you get the single stack.

Truthfully just get a SA GI 1911 and go to town.

Oh yea go out and get a good dremel setup, you will need it. </div></div>

First I've heard about that. My Tactical model is approaching 5K rounds and I've had to do exactly nothing to it other than normal cleaning.

 

[phideaux]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

I work on 1911's daily and have never had a problem fitting parts to a Sig 1911, except for their external extractors....another post mentions RIA cracking by the rectangular hole for the slide stop to be engaged by the magazine, that can happen to any 1911 that doesn't have that part of the slide rail cut out. i've seen it happen on Colts and Springfields so I don't believe it's RIA's metalurgy in question. If you'll notice all newer Colts are cutout in this spot now, so they don't get frames back for cracking.

I've built up a few RIA's for customers who just couldn't afford Colt or Springfields....the RIA's haven't had any problems yet, one of them is going on 5000+ rounds. I personally shy away from Kimbers, as I'm not a fan of MIM parts and will not do any action work on them unless I replace all the internal MIM parts, same as I do on Sig 1911s. Para 1911s are fine made pistols, but i don't care for their aluminum frames. Caspain slides and frames have always been great quality. STI are pretty good, but have some MIM in 'em.

ETA: I do not work on Tarus 1911s, they are very soft. it's not worth sinking any money into one in my opinion. I do know some guys that have them and are perfectly happy though. Norincos are kind of spotty, being hard in some spots, and soft in others. then you get one that's super hard. I stay away from Norincos as much as possible.

 

[Downzero]

Re: Which 1911 to avoid for home smithing

I'm glad that I'm finally not the only person who thinks that Taurus' 1911s are the worst on the mass market.