I need a torque screwdriver for action screws and scope mount screws. Can anybody recommend a certain torque driver in inch pounds?
Gunsmithing Which torque screwdriver to get
- Thread starter Alabama556
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Yup, I have a fat wrench also and it's great for what I need it for. Comes with a decent case and is reasonably priced.
I use fixed seekonk to wrenches for anything above 30 in/lbs. they are pricey...but much stronger and more accurate than the fat wrench.
Which torque screwdriver to get
Reality is you won't find a single precision, quality torque wrench that will cover that entire range.
Borka is quality...and great for field use but I would not consider it a precision unit.
If I could only have one it would be the borka...but thankfully we don't have to stick with just one.
Reality is you won't find a single precision, quality torque wrench that will cover that entire range.
Borka is quality...and great for field use but I would not consider it a precision unit.
If I could only have one it would be the borka...but thankfully we don't have to stick with just one.
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I use a Utica TS-35. I don't trust ching chong tools to work on my high end gear. I've never run into rings/bases that are beyond its limits.
What kind of bases and rings are you using? An 8-40 screw is larger than what's used on a standard Rem700 base and it would probably shear around 35inlbs. Anything bigger I use a 1/4" drive torque wrench that is also in inlbs.
The only rings I have used that have a higher spec are the Seekins; their ring to base T-25 screws are 55inlbs, so I use my torque wrench. Otherwise, NF rings are what I typically use and a torque driver doesn't work for them as they use a nut. For these I use my torque wrench or just tighten by feel.
I'm always more concerned with the smaller cap screws (<= to 8-40) getting torqued properly than the larger stuff. It's easy to get carried away on the small stuff.
I'm always more concerned with the smaller cap screws (<= to 8-40) getting torqued properly than the larger stuff. It's easy to get carried away on the small stuff.
Snap-on for action screws and bases. Fat wrench for the rings. Have used the Borka and like it as well. The snap on has reinstalled many actions into chassis and mini chassis and is usually within a .1 mil on scope zero.
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I've had a Wheeler Fat Wrench and it was okay, but I greatly prefer my Borka tools MG17. I use it all the time on my stuff and for friends.
A bit more clarification - I've got interested in the condition of the original 3+ year old multi torque driver, one of the first 500 made, which Philotimos purchased from another SH member. I've received this driver, evaluated it, found no issues and sent it back to Philotimos, who was most helpful and patient in letting me play with it for a week... It certainly does not mean that Borka Tools has any "reconditioned" tools for sale.
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I love quality torque wrenches. Have about 8 of them from 1/4" to 3/4" drive. For most gunsmithing needs I have a Utica TS-35, and also two different Tohnichi (made in Japan) torque drivers. One goes to 20 inch pounds, the other to 80 inch lbs. Also have a Fat Wrench and it is surprisingly accurate compared to my expensive torque tools. The key thing to remember is that any torque wrench is most accurate in approximately its mid-range. I never use a torque wrench close to its lowest or highest settings, that is why I have several for just about any application.
I use a Snap-on Qdriver 5-40 in/lb. For anything heavier I have a Snap-On 1/4" - in/lb torque wrench.
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Exactly. Utica for most things on a firearm and a 1/4 torque wrench for the upper torque ranges. My torque wrench is a Cornwell, but any quality wrench will do.
Nobody ever listens to me when I say this, but save your money. You don't need a torque wrench at all. They are not terribly precise instruments to begin with because they don't measure what you actually care about, which is the bolt stretch. So they give a false sense of precision. When it comes to screws, "as tight as you can get them without breaking something" is generally the right answer. I've never run across threads on a firearm that required or even benefitted from a torque wrench. The one exception I can think of off the top of my head might be AR barrel nuts, and even with those common sense will get the job done. But in general? Spend the money on a nice steak dinner and a good bottle of whiskey. You'll get more out of it.
This is generally my thought as well. They day you break off a screw or bolt is the day you'll learn that 32 inch pounds is two foot pounds, which isn't much.
If you gouge a scope you have rings that don't fit and shouldn't be anywhere near a precision optic or mount.
I just bought a FAT wrench and it worked well mounting my scope.
Can't say anything else would work better or worse, but it worked for me.
Can't say anything else would work better or worse, but it worked for me.
I use one more for repeatability and to be sure sure I'm getting even torque. I don't want to deal with overtorqued hardware as there is no benefit, and I also don't want to extract broken screws. It takes the same amount of time to do shit right as it does to do things "good enough". On bigger stuff that is less torque sensitive, I generally agree. At the end of the day, people are chasing repeatable accuracy and spend a fortune on gear to get there; why cut the easiest corners?
Don't get me wrong- there's nothing wrong with using one. They *are* going to be better than winging it. Just not as much as most folks think. In the end, the screws on a rifle are not going to effect accuracy (especially ring screws), so it's just not important. If I had one, I'd use it. But I don't and I have no concerns about my screws being too tight or too loose. My scopes don't move, and I didn't strip the rings. That's all I care about.
