Rifle Scopes Would you bed this base? (pics)

[GreggNY]

This is a nightforce base on a 7005R. The first pic is with the front 2 screws snugged down, and the second is with the rear screws installed as well. There is definitely a slight gap in the rear. I'm not sure how bad the gap has to be before having to bed it though. Safe bet I guess is to just bed it anyway, but thought i'd ask here first. I'll be mounting vortex (seekins) rings with a Bushnell 3.5-21 G2DMR. Thanks in advance for the opinions.

 

[sidewaysil80]

Absolutley, I was on the fence as well (minuscule gap) but figured whats a few hours extra to rule out any potential inconsistencies. Regarding yours, that gap def needs some attention. If you don't know how, I used lonewolfsusmc's video. Super informative.

 

[stmcelroy]

Bed it. Doesn't cost much and takes very little time.

Just follow the directions and bed the rear of it, only install the front screws.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Yes, bed it.

 

[Graham]

Yup..........

 

[GreggNY]

Ok so sounds like I shouldn't cut corners and just bed the dam thing . Thanks for being the voice of reason

 

[din]

If I had enough to drink, maybe.

 

[Tahoe333]

Can I ask a question. How would you determine which one is out of alignment? Could the rail be tweaked?

 

[oldfatguy]

Yes the rail can be "tweaked". It will be much better, but never perfect. Bed it.

OFG

 

[fireEMT5]

You can rule out the rail itself being tweaked by laying it on something you know is flat and true, such as a piece of glass or mirror. If the base lays flat with no wobble front to back, or side to side, you know the base is true and your receiver is off. The receiver being off is common, thus why we bed the base to keep it straight and true, which keeps the user from introducing stresses to the rings and scope.

 

[sniperdude]

that sums it up right there, please bed it

You can rule out the rail itself being tweaked by laying it on something you know is flat and true, such as a piece of glass or mirror. If the base lays flat with no wobble front to back, or side to side, you know the base is true and your receiver is off. The receiver being off is common, thus why we bed the base to keep it straight and true, which keeps the user from introducing stresses to the rings and scope.

 

[3DHUSKER]

No option here... bed it.. Always...

 

[jdgray]

Definitely bed it, you will loose 10-15 moa of elevation adjustment if you don't.

 

[Grasshopper308]

Not to hijack but when I just put my base on, a EWG 20 MOA, it had no gap zero zip nadda. Would it still be wise to bed or will I be ok? The rifle shoots great from my range at 300yds max.

Edit: Looking to take the rifle out to 1000yds. (haven't joined club yet)

 

[jdgray]

Not to hijack but when I just put my base on, a EWG 20 MOA, it had no gap zero zip nadda. Would it still be wise to bed or will I be ok? The rifle shoots great from my range at 300yds max.

Edit: Looking to take the rifle out to 1000yds. (haven't joined club yet)

I've had only 1 rifle that didn't need the base bedded, but if its flat, no need to bed.

 

[oldfatguy]

"Bed" it with blue Loctite to keep moisture from wicking between the base and receiver.

OFG

 

[fireEMT5]

Grasshopper, If you think your not needing to bed, try the following first - Set your base on your receiver and install just the front screws and turn them just until they start to snug down. Now observed the rear of the base. If there is absolutely no lift or gap, you may be ok. Now remove front screws, and put in the rear screws and turn them just until snug. Observe the front. Did it lift or produce a gap? If not, you can probably just torque it down and be good to go. If either end produced any visible gap and you do not bed it, but only torque it down and run it, you will be introducing (however slight) twisting forces that take your base away from being true. Now when you mount your rings, they won't be true either. Lastly, you will be putting your straight scope tube in those rings and tightening them down....... Depending on the severity of the departure from "true" you could experience ring marks, and possibly even stress on the scope tube that affects internal adjustment. Bedding really isn't a hard thing to do, and even if it is just a tiny bit that is needed, you'll know that your base is riding flat and true. With a true base, your rings and scope will be much happier.

 

[TRAAV]

This one without a doubt needs bedded. Personally I bed them all without replies agent.

 

[GreggNY]

Ok you all will be happy to know that your advice was taken and the rail has been bedded. Now to see if the thing will shoot ...

 

[scudzuki]

You can rule out the rail itself being tweaked by laying it on something you know is flat and true, such as a piece of glass or mirror. If the base lays flat with no wobble front to back, or side to side, you know the base is true and your receiver is off. The receiver being off is common, thus why we bed the base to keep it straight and true, which keeps the user from introducing stresses to the rings and scope.

Actually, if the gap shown is a result of the rail being bowed, then it may not rock; it will have a gap in the center.
If it is bowed and the rail is bedded in that bowed condition (not straightened first), it will create the exact condition bedding is meant to eliminate, misalignment of the ring bores.

Joe

 

[Pinecone]

Why not lap the base to the receiver?

That way, no goop between metal.

 

[2ac]

I've been following this thread and just received a new base and I'm wondering the same. The base is a Warne going on a Savage 10 pc. I'm not sure if mine needs bedding though, It fits square. I installed front then rear, checked for gaps, there is zero.
So if no bed, loctite to help prevent rust?

 

[fireEMT5]

Any bow in the middle would show up when you check for flatness on a piece of glass or mirror and should be caught then if the installer is paying attention. Most bases made now days (if you are going with the most common known brands) are made to tight tolerances. This isn't to say that they can't be damaged or bent in shipping between the manufacturer and customer - I would say (just my personal opinion) that this is much less an issue. Most bases come true. The receivers are usually the culprit and bedding with some attention to detail takes care of it. If you check to make sure your base is flat and true and it passes, then run a fit test on your receiver and determine which end or both needs bedding. Finally, follow directions such as these - 8541 Tactical - Picatinny Scope Base Install At the end of the day, you'll be happy knowing you mounted your scope correctly with very little chance of ring marks or binding up the internals.

 

[Howa4AU]

Really good info in this thread. Thanks for sharing the knowledge guys.

 

[sniperdude]

nice lookin stick , awaiting your range report

Ok you all will be happy to know that your advice was taken and the rail has been bedded. Now to see if the thing will shoot ...

 

[woodman0663]

Now that the base is bedded you have one less thing to worry about.

I bed all of my bases and ream or lap the rings for maxinum contact with the scope tube.

 

[Skyyr]

Nice job - what did you use for the bedding compound?

 

[GreggNY]

Nice job - what did you use for the bedding compound?

I used quick set JB weld and pretty much followed the 8541 tactical how-to video

 

[lifebreath]

Thanks for the 8541 how-to link! Just in time for the new Near rail and Alphamount that are on their way.

 

[Graham]

I would bed this base:

 

[fireEMT5]

In addition to the video, check out this link from 8541 = 8541 Tactical - Picatinny Scope Base Install You can print it off and keep a copy around your bench - giving you a step by step reference. Very handy, in fact I used it yesterday to bed a base on a buddies rifle.

 

[3DHUSKER]

I would bed this base:

3 times for sure.

 

[Joey Dean]

Same method?

Screw it in the front and see if the back comes up and then nail it down from the rear and see if you get a rise out of that?

 

[3DHUSKER]

Same method?

Screw it in the front and see if the back comes up and then nail it down from the rear and see if you get a rise out of that?

Exactly the same method.

 

[Tactical]

Put base on action. Tape around base. Remove base. Put screws in paste wax. Put coat of wax on Rec. Clean bottom of scope base with denatured alcohol/acetone, Let dry a few minutes. Mix a small amount of Gray Marine Tex. Spread lightly on bottom of scope base. Lightly tighten base screws down so marine tex spreads out on all side. No need to make metal to metal contact. Clean excess marine tex with denatured alcohol. Pull up tape. Let dry 24 hours

Then remove screws and clean them. Reinstall screws with blue locktite and tighten. That's the way to do and still be able to remove base without heat.

 

[The King]

Bedding can also reduce instances of vastly different zero after an impact. If the bedding is hard like JB weld and fills in the screw holes well, the scope base can't move if you whack the scope on something.
EGW bases aren't susceptible to that loss of zero as much because they use conical screw heads that secure the base in 3 dimensions.

One of the same reasons to bed your action - helps with zero after a nasty hit.