I am new at this getting my.308 rifle set up. My new LEUPOLD VX-6 7-42x56 should be in next month. Should I zero it at 25, 100, 200 yards?
F T/R Competition Zero Rang?
- Thread starter Willbas
- Start date
I would zero it at the range you intend to shoot. For instance my LR F-TR rifle is zeroed at 1000 yards and I have come-downs for 900, 800 and 600., my MR F-TR rifle is zeroed at 300 yards.
Willbas, I see you're located in La Mesa according to your info. Where do you plan on shooting? You're not too far from South Bay Rod and Gun Club. It is a very nice shooting facility and the main range goes out to 300 yd. Straight up the 15 about 40 min is the NCSA Pala range, which goes out to almost 900 yd. Also a very nice shooting range.
My recommendation would be for you to determine the zeroes for your rifle at several distances you intend to shoot. Typically, I don't find a zero at less than 100 yd very useful. Depending on where you decide to shoot, I would zero at 100 yd first, then determine and RECORD the zeros at 100 yd interval as far out as you intend to shoot. You can easily do this with whatever load(s) you intend to use in the rifle (each will be from slightly to significantly different). Record the data and you'll always have it. Make sure you also record whatever other indicators there are on the elevation/windage turrets, not just the specific number lined up with the hash mark. Otherwise, it can become easy to lose track of where you are if you have to dial several turns of the knob. If your scope has a zero stop, you'll probably want to set it slightly lower than your 100 yd zero, as elevation setting will change slightly depending on conditions. Good luck with it and have fun.
My recommendation would be for you to determine the zeroes for your rifle at several distances you intend to shoot. Typically, I don't find a zero at less than 100 yd very useful. Depending on where you decide to shoot, I would zero at 100 yd first, then determine and RECORD the zeros at 100 yd interval as far out as you intend to shoot. You can easily do this with whatever load(s) you intend to use in the rifle (each will be from slightly to significantly different). Record the data and you'll always have it. Make sure you also record whatever other indicators there are on the elevation/windage turrets, not just the specific number lined up with the hash mark. Otherwise, it can become easy to lose track of where you are if you have to dial several turns of the knob. If your scope has a zero stop, you'll probably want to set it slightly lower than your 100 yd zero, as elevation setting will change slightly depending on conditions. Good luck with it and have fun.
Zero Rang?
The difference for me, between -10 and 85F, is two tenths at 100. And that's only an ammo temperature issue.
And it's a zero difference due to ammo temp influencing muzzle velocity, not outside air temperature.
Inside of 600 yards your data won't change much, if at all.
Not as much as people think. You can and should memorize your DOPE to 600.
The difference for me, between -10 and 85F, is two tenths at 100. And that's only an ammo temperature issue.
And it's a zero difference due to ammo temp influencing muzzle velocity, not outside air temperature.
Inside of 600 yards your data won't change much, if at all.
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I will be going to Pala Sunday afternoon and shoot; and may try the Hi power at SBGC on Jun 8th
Shooter puts it at 0.6 moa per 20 deg F at 1000 yards. I will start at about 1 moa per 20 deg F from my 65 deg F normal zero for all factors when I start shooting at 1000.
At 600 it's less than 1/4 moa per 20 deg F for my cartridge.
It does not matter where you zero so long as you can turn the knobs until the cross hairs are on the x.
OP,
A zero is where line of sight and bullet path intersect and their resulting value is zero. Therefore, to hit a target point at any given distance the sight will need to be adjusted to create a bullet trajectory where line of sight and bullet path will intersect at such distance. If you are shooting at 100 yards then you want a 100 yard zero. If you are shooting at 600 yards then you want a 600 yard zero. Since you may have many distances you will be shooting to, you will only need to know what adjustment is necessary from distance set on sight to distance to which you intend to shoot. The point here is that a zero is merely a point of reference. Using a 100 yard point of reference is a convenient base line for making adjustment to trajectory to any but extreme distances.
A zero is where line of sight and bullet path intersect and their resulting value is zero. Therefore, to hit a target point at any given distance the sight will need to be adjusted to create a bullet trajectory where line of sight and bullet path will intersect at such distance. If you are shooting at 100 yards then you want a 100 yard zero. If you are shooting at 600 yards then you want a 600 yard zero. Since you may have many distances you will be shooting to, you will only need to know what adjustment is necessary from distance set on sight to distance to which you intend to shoot. The point here is that a zero is merely a point of reference. Using a 100 yard point of reference is a convenient base line for making adjustment to trajectory to any but extreme distances.
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If its a comp scope I don't worry about hard zeros at all, since they change place to place, day to day and as temp/weather changes.
I get a base zero. Record it and then set scope on 600 yard setting for storage to save the springs.
Right before I go to yard line I change to base zero for that distance and that range. Then make fine adjustments from there. Then when finished shooting that line I change setting to next line I will shoot. At end of day I return to 600 yard dope.
With this system you need to keep good records but it works well.
My base line zeros are usually on side of rifle stock so I can just glance and confirm at anytime I become worried.
I get a base zero. Record it and then set scope on 600 yard setting for storage to save the springs.
Right before I go to yard line I change to base zero for that distance and that range. Then make fine adjustments from there. Then when finished shooting that line I change setting to next line I will shoot. At end of day I return to 600 yard dope.
With this system you need to keep good records but it works well.
My base line zeros are usually on side of rifle stock so I can just glance and confirm at anytime I become worried.
Hope you had fun at Pala today. I'm guessing it was pretty windy out there. If you're interested, there is a match the 3rd Saturday of every month at SBRGC. It's called the "Reduced Palma Match" and is 3 x 15 shot matches at 300 yd, with a sighting in period prior, and two sighters to begin each match. It's a very relaxed format, a great group of folks, and probably one of the most enjoyable matches I shoot every month. New shooters are always welcome, so come out and give it a try if you're interested.
I keep a log book of every time I shoot. The temp, %RH, barometric, elevation. If you keep the data for where you shoot and have a ballistics app, you should be on target or close to in your 1st shot.
