Rifle Scopes Zero Stop Setting Bushy 4-30 XRS

[SFree]

Stupid question (as usual), in setting the zero stop on the new ERS or XRS scopes I don't seem to be able to get the stop feature to "lock" at the desired position and don't get the "click" the destructions call for. Rather, I get the very first thunk of movement in the clockwise direction by barely turning the inside cap. How far am I supposed to go passed the very first "thunk", or audible/tactile click? Movement isn't any more than what a tenth mil would be with the knob assembled. 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn?

Don't want to trash this thing...

 

[SFree]

Any other XRS folks who have had questions on the zero stop setting and got it to work or do I need to go through the re-zero procedure?

 

[Kwacker]

I'm fighting with the same thing. Instructions call for using the supplied allen wrench through the hole in the top on to a detent switch and that you would feel it give. So far I've not found anything except the top brass plate w/ no detent.

I'm using low Seekins rings on the stock 20 moa rail and can't get the reticle low enough to zero at 25 yards. With the turrent dialed down to its lowest setting I'm still 1.5" too high @ 25. Haven't even bothered to try and shoot at 100 yet. I'm hoping that it is something bone headed on my part but not being able to find something the instructions call for on admittedly simple instructions has me baffled.

 

[SFree]

Bueller... Bueller...

 

[Maelstrom]

I am in the same boat trying to figure it all out. I tried to sight the scope in last week. 10 rounds down range and never hit paper. I am using Seekings low rings on a Badger 20 MOA base. Looking through the barrel and the the scope everything looks like I should be on target. I will try again next Saturday.

 

[scudzuki]

I just followed the directions.
I have set and un-set the ZS several times.
It's a bit complicated but the directions are accurate.

Joe

 

[SFree]

I just followed the directions.
I have set and un-set the ZS several times.
It's a bit complicated but the directions are accurate.

Joe

Joe,
How far did you turn the inside cap to set the "click"? Guess I'll go through the re-zero process to see if it will set.

 

[SFree]

Maelstrom and Kwacker,
I've not had any problems shooting zero with this scope on my end, bore sight with bolt out at 100 yds., and was was high, but dead center and then proceeded to drill several one hole groups.
This scope and G2 reticle is bomb, tracks perfectly, just havin problems with the stinkin z-stop...

 

[2Shots]

I have two of the scopes, the first one I sighted in was by the book, the second one I had to follow the resetting instructions, I guess it had locked down before at the factory, it was goofy because I couldn't get the scope adjustments down far enough to get a 100 yard zero, then I realized it was already set, I thought the scope was bad to start with but its ok. They are a bit confusing but so far I have muddled through it. What cleared it up for me is the brass screw you see in the center with the slot is actually your adjustment, you are just locking the set screws to it.

 

[SFree]

2Shots,
How far did you turn the inside cap for the "click"?
Yup, same thing with the brass internal, didn't move the detent at all so will have to re-zero...

 

[2Shots]

You turn it farther than you think, I guess you are making up for the change in adjustment you made to zero it, I bet it was 3/4 turn before the first stop than 1/4 the second. But it is pretty confusing at first, my buddies were laughing at me because I swapped scopes the day before our match and refused to set the zero stop in fear I would mess up my actual zero because I tried and messed it up twice, I waited till the next day.

 

[SFree]

You turn it farther than you think, I guess you are making up for the change in adjustment you made to zero it, I bet it was 3/4 turn before the first stop than 1/4 the second. But it is pretty confusing at first, my buddies were laughing at me because I swapped scopes the day before our match and refused to set the zero stop in fear I would mess up my actual zero because I tried and messed it up twice, I waited till the next day.

Does the inside cap have a pretty profound click or does it stop? Can you rotate past your desired stop?
I'm like you were at the beginning, bout half afraid to try it and just leave it where it is...

 

[scudzuki]

You're not going to miss the click, it's very distinct, and you can't turn past it.
I would recommend you follow the steps to reset it, then follow the steps to set it.

Joe

 

[Kwacker]

I stopped by the shop today where I purchased the scope and the owner, whom I've done business with for years and trust, advised me to shim the base then do a mechanical zero and start again from there to get my 100 yard zero.

It just seems odd to me that shims would be required for the scope when it's sitting on a 20 moa base but I'm a complete noob at this so I'll see what happens. Wish I could find some lower rings, feel like I'm sitting in the front row of the movie theater trying to look through this scope.

 

[scudzuki]

Follow the directions to reset (unset) the ZS, in the user manual, it is covered in the pages after setting the ZS.
You should be around 30 MOA away from bottoming the erector with a 20 MOA rail, unless something is seriously out of whack on your rifle.

Joe

 

[2Shots]

I stopped by the shop today where I purchased the scope and the owner, whom I've done business with for years and trust, advised me to shim the base then do a mechanical zero and start again from there to get my 100 yard zero.

It just seems odd to me that shims would be required for the scope when it's sitting on a 20 moa base but I'm a complete noob at this so I'll see what happens. Wish I could find some lower rings, feel like I'm sitting in the front row of the movie theater trying to look through this scope.

I wouldn't shim unless it was a last resort. Take the outer cap off, loosen the two allen screws then turn the brass screw all the way in (clockwise) if you check the scope and bore sight it you will see you have plenty of travel. Lock the set screws down and re zero then follow the set procedure, it'll come to you how it works, and yes the stop and click are pretty obvious, I doubt you would turn past them.

 

[Kwacker]

I wouldn't shim unless it was a last resort. Take the outer cap off, loosen the two allen screws then turn the brass screw all the way in (clockwise) if you check the scope and bore sight it you will see you have plenty of travel. Lock the set screws down and re zero then follow the set procedure, it'll come to you how it works, and yes the stop and click are pretty obvious, I doubt you would turn past them.

To verify; you are referring to the slotted "phillips" in the center, correct? The directions reffered to using the 1.5 mm supplied wrench through the hole in the top of the cap. So far I haven't found any type of relief for the allen wrench or what it is supposed to do

 

[KYS]

I'm fighting with the same thing. Instructions call for using the supplied allen wrench through the hole in the top on to a detent switch and that you would feel it give. So far I've not found anything except the top brass plate w/ no detent.

I'm using low Seekins rings on the stock 20 moa rail and can't get the reticle low enough to zero at 25 yards. With the turrent dialed down to its lowest setting I'm still 1.5" too high @ 25. Haven't even bothered to try and shoot at 100 yet. I'm hoping that it is something bone headed on my part but not being able to find something the instructions call for on admittedly simple instructions has me baffled.

Did you read the manual for disengaging the zero stop? Sometimes the scopes are set to high from the factory on certain calibers. On the 6mm calibers they are often shooting 4-5 mils to hight at 100 yards. If you read you manual You take the cap off.... undo the 2 allen head set screws and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the main bolt in the center clockwise to bring the zero stop up. gently pull up on the black sleeve, reengage the allen screws and install the knob.

Go shoot and see where you are. then follow the directions again to set zero stop once you are ready to go. Read the manual.... it helps.

 

[317millhand]

I had almost the same issue with a different brand scope on my rifle. My scope was adjusted all the way down, but I was still shooting about 1.5 mils high at 100 yards. Im using a 30 MOA rail and the scope just will not adjust down that far with the rail. Zeroed at 300 yards and all is well. Just have to hold under 1.5 mils when shooting closer.

 

[2Shots]

To verify; you are referring to the slotted "phillips" in the center, correct? The directions reffered to using the 1.5 mm supplied wrench through the hole in the top of the cap. So far I haven't found any type of relief for the allen wrench or what it is supposed to do

Yes, the brass screw, slotted/phillips you see down dead center in the middle. The 1.5mm wrench in the top they are referring to is the one small hole on the outer ring of the turret inside cap on top, it says you are supposed to insert the long end and push down to take the slop out of the zero stop, I never could get it to move, however when I turned the cap clockwise it went to a stop point as it instructed then I locked the side screws, re read the instructions and look at the top of the cap, you'll see the hole.

 

[Kwacker]

Well I've tried it both ways now. As directed above with the center screw all the way in and as the manual describes on pg.9 note 3 "Turn the screw driver clockwise until a stop is felt, turn back 1/4 turn counter clockwise in order to move the stop off of its lowermost position". Then note 4 "re-tighten the zero stop set screws inside the black inner locking cap"

No joy, I'm still sitting on the bottom. The only thing different I've done from what the manual describes is loosening and tightening the set screws with the black inner locking cap in the up position. With the cap in the up position I can't access the screws, I believe this is due to the fact that the erector is so low in its travel.

Any other ideas before I call Bushnell? I'm at my wits end.

 

[Kwacker]

double post

 

[2Shots]

Push the black outer ring back down, can you then re tighten?

 

[Maelstrom]

Well I've tried it both ways now. As directed above with the center screw all the way in and as the manual describes on pg.9 note 3 "Turn the screw driver clockwise until a stop is felt, turn back 1/4 turn counter clockwise in order to move the stop off of its lowermost position". Then note 4 "re-tighten the zero stop set screws inside the black inner locking cap"

No joy, I'm still sitting on the bottom. The only thing different I've done from what the manual describes is loosening and tightening the set screws with the black inner locking cap in the up position. With the cap in the up position I can't access the screws, I believe this is due to the fact that the erector is so low in its travel.

Any other ideas before I call Bushnell? I'm at my wits end.

I did the same yesterday. All I ended up doing at first was shooting higher. I ended up taking the center screw and turning it all the way counter clockwise then came back a 1/4 turn. I am still high at 100 but I am at least close to wherein want it on paper. I am shooting a Rem .308 if that makes any difference. Initially I was hitting 5.4 mills left when I started shooting. I had to take a full sheet of plywood and cover it with paper just to figure out where it was hitting even after trying to bore sight like the directions said. Hopefully next month when I get back from Kansas City I will have a chance to send some more rounds down range and getting worked out.

 

[Kwacker]

Bushnells customer service sucks donkey balls. All I got to say, this pos will be sold and I'll step up to a S&B like I should have done in the first place.

I should have stuck with my buy once, cry once mentality that has served me well over the years.

 

[scudzuki]

Guess I could have brought this up before.
I am running a 13 mil Spuhr mount so I am pretty close to the limit of the erector travel with a 100 yard zero.
I used the "reset" instructions, but when I turned the brass screw to the limit, I only backed it off a tiny bit (not the 1/4 turn instructed) as I knew I would need the entire erector travel. When I set my 100 yard zero, I was very close (a mil or so) from the limit. I don't think I would have been able to get a 100 yard zero with the 1/4 turn after bottoming like the manual suggested.

Joe

 

[Graham]

The manual that comes with the scope is of no use. Here's the manual with the instructions specific to the ERS:
http://www.bushnell.com/getmedia/8e...ticalScopes-2013ZStopModels-1LIM.pdf?ext=.pdf

Remove the turret cap. Turn the two side screws counterclockwise to unlock the turret. Turn the center screw down (clockwise) until the clutch it at its limit. Then back off 1/8 turn to give you a few adjustments below the zero.

 

[djarecke]

You need to keep turning the turret until you feel a click or until movement stops. How far you have to turn it will depend upon how far away the zero stop is. I had trouble figuring this out as well but basically pulled the zero stop UP through the side access slot to allow me to turn the elevation dial down further. It sounds like you're hitting the zero stop before you're going low enough on your elevation adjustment.

 

[Short-bus]

First time I set the zero stop on my XRS I turned that inside knob just a touch over a full turn and it just stopped turning, and was a hard stop. I have no problems working with the zero stop on my XRS. Although it's not as simple, or user friendly as the nightforce zero stop, once you've done it once or twice, it's a piece of cake.

Branden

 

[30cal user]

good info here, glad i found this, b/c i too struggled with the instructions and trying to push down with that little allen wrench

i would trade off locking turrets for easier zero stop....the march zero stop on their ffp scopes is very easy and nice

 

[Cobracutter]

Bushnells customer service sucks donkey balls. All I got to say, this pos will be sold and I'll step up to a S&B like I should have done in the first place.

I should have stuck with my buy once, cry once mentality that has served me well over the years.

Ill take it for say .50 on the Dollar since its such a piece of shit. Let me know where to send the money.

 

[Kwacker]

You're a bit late to this party, it's been gone and replaced w/ Premier 5x25.

AND the Zero Stop works.

I stand by my statement about Bushnells CS though. It's long winded and not worth the trouble I had to go through to type it here but I will not be buying any more Bushy products in the future.