So I Just got a new Eotech on my AR. What is a realistic range to zero this set up (S&W M&P 15x w/ eotech). I am thinking the use is 3 gun and plinking. I have a handgun and a Rem. 700 in 308 for distance. Advice and ideas is appreciated.
zeroing
- Thread starter mzvarner
- Start date
I set mine up at the usual 100 yards. Don't expect crazy accuracy but just get it as close as you can, I would dim the reticle as low as you can while still seeing it to make the dot small and just try to be consistent, I got my Black Rain Ordnance 308 to do 1.5 inches with an eotech.
I zero all my students optics at 200yds. Keeps your LOS closer to POA and all you need is a center mass hold for 8" rounds / squares from muzzle contact out to 230yds.
Its the best blend you can run.
If you have BUIS I ZERO them at 300yds, this allows you to have a 6 0'clock hold from 28yds to 300yds if you need precision shots on a target like a head shot or a shoulder shot. With the 6 o'clock hold on a 300yd ZERO the FSP does not obscure the target any also.
John
Its the best blend you can run.
If you have BUIS I ZERO them at 300yds, this allows you to have a 6 0'clock hold from 28yds to 300yds if you need precision shots on a target like a head shot or a shoulder shot. With the 6 o'clock hold on a 300yd ZERO the FSP does not obscure the target any also.
John
This is a great quick video by travis haley discussing various zero distances...
Travis Haley Ch7 - YouTube
Travis Haley Ch7 - YouTube
That video is very helpful. I did some more research on the topo and found this thread over in the M4 carbine site. It is essentially the written version of the video but I found it helpful as well. It has ballistic calculator representations of the different zeros.
AR-15 Zeros and Trajectories - M4Carbine.net Forums
AR-15 Zeros and Trajectories - M4Carbine.net Forums
All Irons I zero at 50m - then confirm at 200m, same with my RDS's, Magnified optics get 100m zero's (usually).
Generally try to then shoot at 25m increments out to the max engagement range to see what offset and drop at (yes I also have a ballistics program).
For RDS and Irons, I believe the 50/200m (ish) zero is the best option as it gives you a ~2" +/- POA/POI out to the pretty much effective range (for PID)
Generally try to then shoot at 25m increments out to the max engagement range to see what offset and drop at (yes I also have a ballistics program).
For RDS and Irons, I believe the 50/200m (ish) zero is the best option as it gives you a ~2" +/- POA/POI out to the pretty much effective range (for PID)
Based off of the video and the M4carbine thread I think the 36yrd zero is the way to go. Very tight grouping from 25-300 yrds. I think this is nice too because it gives a little overlap with my handgun and long gun. I guess that actually brings up another question, is overlap a good thing?
I think overlap is a good thing. You want to be able to confidently engage any target with the platform in your hand and only switch out when you have to.
Here is the link to my site:
http://www.tracearmory.com/carbine-zero.html
This is a long article, and a lot of pictures. Our very own Sigma05 shot the targets in the article.
Please post below if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Some pic's from the article:
100yds m855
200yds m855
300yds m855
200yds a group with and without the 3x mag on the EOTech
John
http://www.tracearmory.com/carbine-zero.html
This is a long article, and a lot of pictures. Our very own Sigma05 shot the targets in the article.
Please post below if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Some pic's from the article:
100yds m855
200yds m855
300yds m855
200yds a group with and without the 3x mag on the EOTech
John
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I have a variety of ranges/ land to shoot at. Getting out to 1k+ is not an issue and shooting all they way between would just be a mater of driving 25 minutes.
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