Okay guys, I know there is a ton of info out there regarding barrel length. At this point I am suffering from paralysis by analysis and it’s making me crazy. Lol. I am looking for any opinions or insights from people more knowledgeable then myself.

background:
I currently have 12.5 bcm upper and 16 (mid length) bcm upper. I recently started new job and had first child and am very busy and not shooting as much. I always like the appeal of a “do it all” ar (I know there is no such thing.) I have my 16 set up with pst 1-6 and 12.5 with eotech. I came to the realization that with me shooting less I want to train with one specific rifle my “go to” if you will. I am a sucker for velocity and recently purchased a 14.5 thinking I would make this my rifle. I do have 30 cal can that I run and will be pinning flash hider on the 14.5. My challenge is deciding if I should get rid of the 16” or the 12.5. Initially I considered setting up 16” with 2-10 and making it a more dmr type rifle. That being said I do live in PNW outside of urban area, where it is pretty heavily wooded. Hard to find places to stretch guns out past 500.

current thought process:

16”
pros: velocity, I know it’s only 1.5 inches longer than 14.5 but my understanding is it’s a pretty sizable jump. If I were to keep it I would put a 2-10 on it and the 1-6 on the 14.5. (Also would keep eotech and likely run both on the 14.5)

cons: very similar to 14.5 but would obviously be set up for different purpose. 16 is long with a can.

12.5
Pros: better suppressed. It could easily do what the 14.5 or 16 could do for that matter with the advantage of more maneuverability.

Cons: pistol brace/sbr laws. Less velocity.
As stated before I am a sucker for velocity and want the most effective round down range.

final thoughts: at any point in time you could talk me into getting rid of any of them. Also easy to convince me to keep all 3. At this point I want a go to rifle and to have a back up. (2 is 1 and 1 is none). Should I keep 16 or the 12.5.

Any thoughts, insights or opinions welcomed and appreciated. Thanks guys

Curious, dudes being disrespectful and mildly resisting a pat down. Gets Slamed and heel kicked, which instantly stopped his dumbassary
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So I bought this new bore-scope...

And I found at least 2 of these little divots/pock-marks in the grooves of my Remington 700 .308. Just curious...anyone seen this before? Seems like it shouldn't be a 'normal' feature of a barrel.
Barrel has just under 1000 rounds through it. What would cause that? I don't know if they affect accuracy much, but they sure don't do much for confidence.

SOLD


This is one of the nicest looking stocks I've seen from JK if I do say so myself.

Exodous "Lite" (stock has material removed on the butt end, resulting in about a half pound reduction)
Dark Distressed, Lone Peak Fuzion inlet. Inlet for Hawkins BM. Will include brass weight kit if desired.

$800 shipped. Add $100 if Foundation ARCA rail is wanted as well.

Scope is sold.

$2,900 shipped for scope only.
$225 shipped for RRS Uni-mount

Like new, used in 1 match and a little practice. I can't find any blems. Comes with 20MOA RRS uni-mount (1.26" height).

Will come with box, shade, scope caps, etc.

10 9 boxes of 500 ct Berger 6mm 105gr VLD-all the same lot-$230 shipped per box


1 box 500 ct Berger 6mm 109 bybrid-$235 shipped-Sold

2x 500 count boxes. Same lot. Will not separate.

$615 shipped.

This also happened herein TX earlier this year

Aww, look how cute Skynet's latest creation is. He even has a 6.5 Creedmoor! I'm surprised he doesn't come with a man bun (bitch biscuit) too. Maybe that will be a feature on RoboDog 2.0. Even if it had a bitch biscut these things are creepy as fuck.

https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zo...e-6-5mm-assault-rifles-mounted-on-their-backs

The thin blue line seems to be getting thinner. Wyoming of all places? Maybe I’m black pilled but my view of law enforcement consists of morally upright individuals upholding morally sensible laws. I’ve always thought immorality among law enforcement was reprehensible, but I’m also aware of how tough the job is. And I still believe in law and order. Tough line to walk, hence the thin blue line. But this, among other things we’ve seen lately, calls my view into question. For reference about other corrupt or otherwise stupid laws that shouldn’t be and aren’t enforced, check out this list.


Especially look at New York.

*** Alright... Let's try this one more time... Maybe they have gotten it out of their system, and this time folks can be mature about this and act civil, and not accuse people of "shilling", and start hating on what other people spend their own personal money on. ***

*** I am not sponsored by, shoot for, work for, or affiliated with ANY company or product. I bought this scope with my own money, I paid full-price, and it was NOT "cherry-picked" for me. I own a bunch of different scopes that range from cheap Nikons, fixed & adj. power SWFA SS, Vortex, all the way up to Zeiss and Kahles. ***


This will be an (ongoing) unbiased review thread... Good or bad, I will post what happens. And I would like other Arken owners to join in, as well.


About a month ago I bought an Arken SH4 Gen2 6-24x50 VPR MIL scope (as most of you are aware ). It came in about 3 weeks ago. I have now had the chance to spend a fair bit of time with it, and shoot through it on several different occasions at the range, with varying atmospheric and light conditions, on my Rem 700 5R Milspec in .260 Remington.

*** Overall UNBIASED first impressions with unboxing, mounting, and shooting with it... ***

1.) I am very impressed with this scope for the money. It's heavy, robust, feels solidly built, and the turrets feel great. They have a very positive feel and are very audible. So far, they repeatedly go back to true-zero every time, even after dialing all the way up and down the ladder several times and re-checking zero. My one gripe is that it doesn't rotate a full 10 MILs per revolution. It only goes to 8 MILs, so it makes keeping track a bit odd, when you go past 0 to the next rotation. Maybe they can fix this for future models. From my 100 yard zero with a 20 MOA base, I have 23.5 MILs of elevation adjustment in the turret. At 100 yards, 1 MRAD is 3.6". That means I have roughly 84.6 inches of useable adjustment from my 100 yard zero. I can crank it the last .5 MILs to get a full 24, but it feels like it's straining the erector, and I don't feel like breaking the damn thing. 23.5 MILs is pretty respectable after setting a 100 yard zero and zero-stop.

2.) The zero-stop is amazing, I wish more companies had a zero-stop that was this positive and solid. Easy to use, effective, and requires only a 2mm allen bit to reset the turret caps, and tighten down the ZS. I have cranked pretty hard on the elevation turret to see if I can feel any slippage or "give" while the cap screws are tightened down, and so far, they are solid as a rock.

3.) The HD glass (in my particular scope) is pretty good overall. No image distortion that I can see while looking through it at any magnification setting. And I'd say it's damn-good for a $450 scope. I'm fairly impressed with it. The reticle is nice, too, and the glass-etching is very clean. I don't see any distortion in the reticle, or around the edges of the glass, even at max magnification.

4.) Parallax adjustment is VERY smooth, and seems to be pretty true on my scope. Everyone's eyes are different, so it might vary slightly and not be 100% on the mark each time, each day, for each distance, but mine is pretty close, maybe 10 yards off or something. If I had to guess, I'd say @ 100 yards, the setting (for my eye) is probably set at around 110 yards for a clear picture. But, in all-fairness, I've also sustained a lot of damage to my right eye over the years, and the muscles get strained over just a few hours of shooting, and I have problems with maintaining a clear image in every scope I own (price doesn't matter), so there's a very good possibility that it might just be me, and not the scope... So, take that part of the review with a grain of salt. Next time I go, I will test it early, so I can find out whether or not it was me, or the scope. I want to be as honest and unbiased as possible.

5.) My 1 major gripe so far, is the illuminated reticle... It's not very bright, even on level 10. I DO however, like the intermittent off positions between each brightness setting. This is a feature you don't normally see on scopes in this price range.

Overall, I am very pleased with my purchase. So far, so good.

I bought this scope because the reviews I saw impressed me, and the features list is pretty packed for a scope in this price range. I like trying new things to see if they're actually worth the money, or how well they hold up. It has nothing to do with "shilling" for any company or product.

I will do some side-by-side comparisons later on with other brand and model scopes I have, and try to get pictures with my phone (iPhone 11 Pro Max, so its got a decent camera) while looking through them at the same targets, at the same magnification ranges.

I will keep this thread updated as I venture down this journey with a new scope from a relatively new company. As I hope the rest of you Arken owners will, as well. If something bad happens with your scope, please post it up, and what happened, and how your CS experience goes. Let's have full-transparency here.

Here's some pictures...














Here's the 200 yard target @ 6x magnification...



Here's the 200 yard target @ 14x magnification...



Here's the 200 yard target @ 24x magnification...

In Colorado people who have had one of the shots, are no longer asked to quarantine when exposed to someone who tests positive for COVID. This despite knowing that vaccinated people both catch and spread COVID just like the "unvaxed."

The implications on the numbers are going to run deeper than is immediately obvious. The first big number change this type of policy will cause, will be the number of cases in the "unvaccinated" will be exponentially higher than the vaccinated. All people who are quarantined are counted as presumed positive COVID cases until they test negative. They are also tabulated as such in county case counts. Therefore in any state not quarantining the "vaccinated" there will be exponentially higher numbers of COVID cases for the un-vaxed.

We are once again playing the game here, where 1 student tests positive, and 70 students get the Q. This is going to make youth cases of COVID look higher when represented as a percent of total cases. They can't get the shot, so they will have to quarantine, and be counted as cases until they test negative. This goes hand in hand with the big push to force the shot on kids.

It will also cause shut downs low vax areas, by forcing actual healthy people into quarantine. In the mean time there will be just as many or more sick people in high vax areas, but they will not be shut down, or effected as much because they aren't quarantining everyone.

Hello all!

Sorry for the long post but as a new guy here going down the rabbit hole of reloading. I am slowly getting things together to start reloading my ammo. I understand it's a pretty bad time to get into it e.g. supply issues. In the meantime as things come in the mail. Ide love some advice, tip/tricks about reloading this caliber, and answers to my questions as they come up.

To start, I went with 260 because after some research I found that since I wanted to get into reloading, compared to 6.5 creedmoor the 260 is not much different, reload friendly, shoots flatter than the 308 while being nicer to my shoulder, and creed just seemed a little too new for me.

As my first rifle and budget build, a Remington M700 PCR in 260 Remington. Topped off with a Vortex Diamondback Tactical FFP with a Precision Armament Hypertap MB. She's had about 200 factory rounds thru her and I'll be starting my load dev from the used brass.

Starting with the factory Hornady match ammo. She liked the 130gr ELD-M rounds as I kept 5 round groups under .75" @ 100yards with a usual flyer(Albeit my first time @100 yards I'm quite happy with the result.) 3 round groups were even tighter, and was satisfying.

Anyway, Thats where I'll be starting loads with the Hornady brass ive saved. Leading to my first few questions:

In regards to the bullet I use, am I safe to assume that most people used a 6.5mm creedmoor round in a 260 case due to the same bullet día.? I can't seem to find specific 260 bullets anywhere(I guess first problem with going 260 Rem?)

Next, does the longer 6.5 creed round compress loads by a lot? I know I can and will seat longer if I have to, as far as my mag will let me. But if I can use em I want to go with the Hornady 130gr ELD-M BT to start, with Hornady brass and eventually good primers and powder whenever that's back in stock. I will eventually try out different brass and bullets as time goes on, but this is my starting point.

I look forward to what you guys say. I appreciate all and any advice/feedback and want to know what loads you guys are using for your rifle.

Thanks,

Thanatos-Keres

How critical is this measurement ? my
ballistic app ask for it and I can get within 1/16 th of an in just wondering if that is close enough for long range shooting 600 to 1000 yrds
Thanks for your help Rick

Hate to do this but need to pay off the credit card. Plus I have another 22 creed already that is more "sentimental" already. Rifle is in excellent condition, all parts like new.

22 Creedmoor
21" K&P barrel, chambered by Nemesis Machine, muzzle threaded 5/8x24, 3B contour
Manners EH5A stock with quick-adjust cheek knob
Grayboe M5 DBM
1- AICS Magazine
Triggertech Special
Atlas Rail (arca adapter NOT included)
Set of 22 Creedmoor Hornady dies

Scope:
Crimson Trace Hardline Pro 6-24x50 FFP MIL, freshly mounted last month, tracks perfectly

Rifle shoots great like anything from Damon at Nemesis. Have attached some target pics for seating depth testing done at 200 Yards with 77 TMK.

$3,200 shipped entire rifle and dies
$3,650 rifle, dies, rings, scope
$2,300 barreled action (will not sell stock by itself, it will go with rifle complete only or i'll keep if someone buys the BA)

Consolidating my collection and don’t shoot this, so let’s rehome it! No box, 20" barrel with brake. Less than 100rd through it, and was consistently under .5MOA!

$1650 shipped via FFL

Hello, first time posting here. I began reloading a year or 2 ago and awhile back I did a reload that wasn’t hot enough and it the rounds got caught in the barrel. Thankfully no one was hurt. I’ve got an uberti cattleman 2 .45lc that I’ve got copper jacket stuck in. I was told by a gunsmith that just got out of schooling that I could use ammonia and hot water and some elbow grease to get it out. There is quite a bit of copper jacket in it. I’ll attach some picture for people to see. Hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction.

The second picture is approximately where the copper jacket ends. (Yeah there is more than one round in there...)

brand new barrel / ammo, decided to go a different route

$700 shipped barrel

$500 shipped ammo SOLD

Time after time, people are congregating around this idea they need to use the Hornady OAL tool and then struggle to find a modified case.
Why is nobody using the Sinclair overall length tool?
It’s a one time purchase and will work with any caliber out there.

The loosey goosey upper is an Anderson that has about 28k rounds on it, about 17k of those with a titanium carrier, 3k with an aluminum carrier and the rest with a steel JP low mass carrier. I knew the carrier seemed sloppy but I didn't realize how bad it was until my accuracy went to hell. It went from shooting my 69 SMK load around 1.5-2 moa down to .6-.8 just by swapping all the parts to a new upper.
Login to view embedded media The aluminum carrier cut through the anodizing really quick and made the inside of the upper kinda rough, and then the titanium carrier seems to have hogged it out from there.

This is Hornady 3x fired 6mm arc brass fire from a gas gun.
Can someone help me with where I went wrong? This ridge wasn’t there before sizing. Not all brass does it. Is it because this piece was overpressured or am I doing something while sizing to cause this? Annealing heat getting too close to the head?

Man I have been barely shooting so as to preserve My stash and I am losing my shit .
After a range session wether it's ; pistol trigger discipline/speed drill , recoil management , all the number drills , steel , AR up drills , positions etc . I have been reborn . Anointed by God and overall head dislodged from posterior . So I started dry firing with muh timer and running airsoft on muh back yard steel challenge set up . I am going to hit club steel challenge comps for November and December as wells as Action Pistol . Fuck it , what's 2400 rounds right vs muh sanity . Besides December club comps are usually charity events .
It's for the kids .